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Pulling a Disc

thirdcoaster ยท 2010-02-16 19:47

I've seen dozers pulling heavy offset discs before, but never paid attention to the sizes of either unit. I have a New Holland D75, 75 hp, 19,000 pounds, LT undercarriage, drawbar on rear. I have no provision for aux hydraulics for a lift axle cylinder, but I assume I could add some if necessary. What size disc could I pull? I would want one with 24" blades to run in recently cleared pasture to aerate and level the ground. We would then plant hybrid bermuda grass. Our soil is primarily "black gumbo" clay, no rocks. One of our ranch properties is sandy to loam soil. Does pulling versus pushing create any extra wear on the u/c? It seems like the u/c wouldn't know the difference.:beatsme Thanks

Replies10
  1. #1vernier2010-02-16 20:06

    I pull an offset disc with a JD 550 J series, about the same size dozer you have. My disc is about 9 ft wide w/ 24 inch blades, and has hydraulics to raise it for transport. It is a Athens disc (probably fairly old). I use it for brush and to break up sod, it takes about three passes over the ground to level things good and looks good also.Usually then the land owner can get on it with a farm tractor with lighter equipment to prepare it for planting. I have to raise it out of the ground on the ends to turn for the next pass, or at least pick it up some. Pulling one of these will put your dozer's cooling system to the test because it is a steady load, not like dozing. I have dot noticed any increased undercarriage wear of any sort. Good Luck Vernier

  2. #2hvy 1ton2010-02-16 20:36

    Reversing is the main thing that will increase wear on a tracks. So pulling a disc should reduce it compared to dozing where the dozer is pushing then backing up. I've been looking around for info on this too, and looks like you need 65 draw bar horsepower from a clawer tractor to pull a 7'6" heavy offset or a 8' bog plow. If your dozer doesn't have a ripper, just install the diverter valve and run it to a set of quick connects off the back of your tractor. I know a guy that uses a d4d setup as an ag tractor for breaking up crp/bluestem ground. He put a turbo on his dozer and i assume it stands up to that because he doesn't use it as a dozer, but i'm not really sure. I'm not sure how well it works with hydrostat dozers, and i think yours is. I see vernier uses i hystat dozer, do you have problems with the engine overheating or the drivetrain?

  3. #3vernier2010-02-16 21:25

    I have not had any issues w/ overheating in the hydrostatics or the engine when pulling my disc, I also pull an Ashland scraper with it. As far as hydraulics on the 550j you can add up to two extra remote valves to the main valve bank, by removing the end casting and put the remote valves in then bolt the end back on, it requires longer rods that holds everything together, these valves are made by Husco.The Athens disc is pretty heavy with serrated blades, and is about all I would put behind a dozer of this size, When in heavy sod and it is buried to the hubs you have to go in a straight line. I have guys wanting to rent my disc, but without at least a 100 HP and 4 wheel drive farm tractor I tell them it won't do any good to them. I just spent about a grand on repairs (bearings) on my disc this summer, so probably won't be renting it out any more,It's hard to come out ahead with that kind of repair costs. Sorry to ramble on but this stuff interests me. Vernier

  4. #4thirdcoaster2010-02-16 21:51

    Thanks for the replies and to Vernier, Welcome.:drinkup I found a Taylor-Way in the local paper for only $2,200, said that it was in excellent condition. Turns out it was 11', but sold to the first caller anyway.

  5. #5stumpjumper832010-02-17 10:13

    24" blades are standard size for the current ag disks. Sunflower and krause are two good makers. You should be able to pull 10', we do with a 95hp, 2wd, ih farm tractor. Problem is when you get below 10' wide the disks all go three point hitch and are alot lighter in the ag category. I know rome and others make 8' drawbar stuff but they are running 28" disks and are heavy buggers.

  6. #6hvy 1ton2010-02-17 16:15

    The numbers i was using were for a 28" disk. For some reason i thought that is what you were asking about. Looking around for the drawbar horsepower of deere dozers i found this a graph of 550H drawbar pull. One more question for vernier, what speed do you pull your disk in normal conditions?

  7. #7KMB832010-02-17 21:35

    I have done this before w/ a D5. Works slick. if you dont have an extra hydraulic valve, we spliced the hoses running to the tilt cylinder and ran a set to the disc or anything else needing hydraulics.

  8. #8vernier2010-02-17 22:58

    Without looking up the ground speed specs on my machine I would guess about 3 to 4 mph (just guessing). The first pass is always slower, I like to go as deep as it will go to get the sod turned and get some dirt showing. On the second pass it works better to go at a 45 degree angle to the first pass seems to chop things up easier.If I have the teeth on when discing I will use them also to help tear things up of course that takes more power and slows things down. Good Luck. vernier

  9. #9Dozerboy2010-02-18 20:47

    My guess is your in SE TX outside of Houston maybe since you got black gumbo. It is a VERY heavy clay and some real nasty stuff thats heard to work. I think your going to have to make several passes to break it up even more to get it good and level. If the guys that did the clearing didn't do a good clean up job I would start with a bit of dozer work first or you will be wasting time with that disk. Disks are great but your only moving the dirt 1" at a time.

  10. #10thirdcoaster2010-02-18 23:20

    Dozerboy, I'm SW of Houston. When we clear pasture (primarily huisasche), we either run a Hydro-ax & spray the stumps or shear & spray. Within a few months, we get some regrowth and I take the backhoe and grub out the live rootballs. This can make the pasture pretty rough, depending on the size and quantity of the "survivors" that are dug out. If the pasture had a "canopy" of brush, the grasses get pretty well shaded out. After clearing, it seems that aerating/turning the soil and fertilizer helps jump-start the new grasses. I'm primarily concerned with opening up the topsoil a bit; smoothing things out is more of a beneficial by-product.