How do you pull and push 5-6" bearing races out and in? I know most will say just cut them out and that's what I do but I would like to use my hollow hyd ram and just pull them out anybody made a tool to do that? How do you pull them in also with the ram to make your own driver or whatever you call the beveled plate? Hammering them in with either a hammer or air hammer gets real old and I don't like to do it. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about
hi ,there are a few ways to remove taper cups like yours 1/use a soft mild steel punch and hammer they should come out pretty easy 2/ if they are stubborn run a bead of weld around the inside of cup, that will shrink them and use method above To install put them in freezer over nite and they should tap in ok don't forget to use a soft punch you could use a hollow cylinder with a pull plate but that would be over kill for 5 to 6 inch taper cups Mark
I have used method No. 2 as Mark250 suggested many times and had the cup fall out. I have also made a sligtly tapered disc with a hole in the center on a lathe and cut it leaving the center 1/3. use a hard all thread rod, two nuts and a bar with a hole in it large enough to put the rod through.
Just make sure to give the surfaces, other than the race, a spritz of anti-spatter spray. Not much fun tryin to push in new ones, with weld spatter, on the bores...
Thanks I'll have to look that up. I have welded a washer or crossbar in one to pull or push on.
Second the "run a ring of weld round the inside diameter" method. The cups usually drop out when the weld cools. As Mark says a freezer is as good a way as any of getting the new ones in.
Much the same as welding if you heat them red hot in about 3 spots with the torch and let them cool they will falll out.
I have tried the weld truck before and didn't have good luck with it so must have done something wrong. How do you freeze them out on the job?
One way to freeze out on a job is get hold of some dry ice in a cheap cooler. Toss the bearings in when you pick up the dry ice and let them sit while driving out to the job and remove the old bearings. Then clean things up and by then the new bearing races should be nice an cold. Use a clean pair of welding gloves to handle the bearings as the dry ice will give you frostbite! The trick I found with the weld to remove is to crank up the heat and run a big nasty pass on the bearing getting it nice and hot then give it time to cool down.
We would use a race driver punch . https://store.snapon.com/Oval-Bearing-Race-Punches-20-Oval-Bearing-Race-Punch-P643668.aspx
Just be very careful when diving on any bearing! They are very hard steel and can shatter and send chips flying. If my dad was still around today he could explain that very clear from experience. Removing a bearing in a piece of equipment about 50 years ago he or someone working with him hit a bearing race and he ended up with a few chips in one eye and never regained full vision from that eye! My preference would be to a pusher plate and hydraulic press of some kind if there is room. Next best thing for me would be to shrink it in someway to allow it to be moved with minimal force. Either welding or heating in a few spots then let cool to release the press fit. And even using those methods care must be taken as bearing still may fracture and cause injury.
I keep a bottle of co2 on the truck to freeze stuff
Can you describe your process? I was talking to my brother today about that
Great point kshansen ! Feller has to be careful about flying metal . What I like about a race punch & big old hammer is it fits most of the bearings we have ..... Few cases where the bearing race is in a blind hole like on a dozer final drive . Those get cut in half with a torch . Ran in to a little trouble last Friday evening installing new front wheel bearings in the 68 Ford Galaxie 500 . They did not leave much of a lip on the backside to get a hold of . Race driver kept slipping off the 1/16 inch edge of the bearing cup .... OK ..... I'm a hard headed SOB as well Went back to the tool box & found a 3/4 drive socket that fit the bearing cone perfect & would drive though the hub . Well now ..... That bearing cup gave up & fell rite out after a few smacks . Looks like there is plenty of bearing cup showing to get hold of . We would just start pounding with the race driver . No give .... weld a bead around & letter cool of .... Still no give hack in two pieces with a torch . Prep the clean up the bore with a die grinder & install the new bearing race .
Don't you just hate it when someone designs something with no regard as to how to repair it later? When I found something like that I would often after fitting to get it apart grab the die grinder and put a couple notches in to let one get access to drive the bearing back out in the future. My theory was make it easy on the "next guy" because who knows you my be that "next guy"! Also in cases where the lip you have to hit against is small a little time on the grinder to sharpen up the edge on the punch can make a major difference!
You might want to weld up the crack in the weld on that tube on the right side of your picture. Bob
Are you referring to the one outlined in red? Sure does look like a crack.
That's why they made Beer ... LOL !
If it is cracked there odds are good the other side has one also. Air arc that out and repair it and check the other side closely also.
Good eye. Looks rusty.
And cuss words to describe the person who designed them!
Just turn bottle upside down and blow it into a box with rags in it
You can get Co2 cylinders with what is called an inductor tube. Basically pulls liquid off the bottom of the cylinder.
1 wallop with a soft drift . If it sounds solid ,I would only weld the lower quarter pretty hard , have coffee , a bit ** choclate if it is too early for beer and all the hard work is done . Get the race from the freezer and hammer it in . If i was using a dolly and threaded bar (for a bush which would be a long hard pull ) the I freeze the dolly also . I even put the lipseals in the deep freeze ,jost over the T bones .
Thanks I will try the first two sentences. Can you explain the dolly program a bit more please?
I used to use a wooden box with clips holding the sides together. The box had slots cut in the sides to let the gas out. A line from the co2 bottle in the top. Turn on gas for a while would make a block of ice.
How much co2 does it use I found dry ice makers on the web but the one I looked at it runs in my mind it took a lot of co2.
I wish I could be that organized but I don't think that there is dry ice available just anywhere around here. We use it for freeze branding cattle and I think some dillons have it and some don't. Like everybody I think I like to have the tools I need when I need them so I would love to be able to make my own dry ice.
Might want to just try a google search for "Dry Ice" in your area, you might be surprised who may have it Back many years ago when we needed some dry ice at work to install pins in an Allison transmission planetary I found out the size the blocks it came in from one place then built a simple box out or some 3/4 inch plywood scraps and lined it with some foil backed 1 1/2 or 2 inch foam insulation on all sides and on the hinged top. That usually was good for two or three days work. Blocks we got were about 8 inches square and maybe 2-3 inches thick.
By dolly , I mean a round plate of a suitable diameter with a hole in the center to press , jack or pull a bearing ,bush or engine liner .
Was nearly 20 years ago but i think it used a fair bit. Was better than nothing and we weren't paying for c02
Some grocery stores sell dry ice in the area where I live (Illinois). I know an HEF member that buys liquid nitrogen at a welding gas store. He tried to shrink a rusted in place backhoe boom pin he was trying to remove. It didn't help him at all he told me.
I can get dry ice or liquid nitrogen from my LWS. Regards Bob
We had a final drive housing years back that we welded up the bearing cup to get it out, but after four attempts and four new cups, we gave up trying to get the new one back in, took the housing in to a machine shop, turns out the cup housing was machined oval, but we had the housing machined back to spec. Just tossing it out there, sometimes the housings are not round or machined right, but to date, the final drive has never had another issue. We think the factory used a large press to press the cup in, which ended up either flaking the surface of the cut, or ovaling the cup enough to cause bearing failure, we had welded up the cup to get it out, so it was too late to look over the cup like we should have. Now if we have bearing failures before they should occur, we mike the housing and double check to see if its round and to spec and before welding up the cup to get them out, we look very closely to see if there are high and low spots worn in the cup, which also give an indication the cup isn't round and might be the reason it failed before it should have. We've also had a housing with a bearing cup in both sides, that the holes we not machines straight across from each other, causing the bearings to run crooked but couldn't due to the shaft being run straight, which caused the bearings themselves to take up the slack, not surprising, the bearings always went bad, till we remachined the housing so both sides matched and the bearings ran correctly in the cups. As they say, sometimes its not the bearings, cups or who's doing it, but the company who machined the housings.