My pumps are starting to mine a bit and before i start with spring rush i wanna rebuild the 2 main pumps there HPV145D's. I know a guy that can get me the parts but what parts are the best to replace my friend has told me to with out taking it to a shop I could put all new pistons,head block, valve plate. what are your thoughts here is a link to a parts break down http://www.jlparts.com/Hydraulic_Parts/HPV145.htm any hello you give is much apprecatited I can buy remans but me and my friend figured it out and i could rebuild pretty cheap.
They aren't overly technical, but keep in mind with a piston pump cleanliness in working is a must!! Be sure to inspect and replace the bronze bushings that the carrier rides in, they will wear and can allow extra play and vibration. I always replace every o-ring and back-up ring in a hydraulic component when rebuilding it, just saves a headache later on.
Yes i'm ordering a complete seal & O-ring kit but i need to know what wear to look for. Also if your pumps are wineing and every now and then your pumps lock right out and you got to let off the joy sticks and wait like a second and re engage the joysticks could this also be do to the pumps being week or sometimes when im moving forwards or backwards the machine will like to just stop on one track or the other and again let the pedel go back to deffault position and then re engage again but these thing only happen when running at full tilt but also it will happen on a lower rpm but no where near as much is this a problem to do with the pumps or what any help would be much thanks.
Those pumps will have wear between the head and the valve plate. Very very common on that style of pump. What happens is the valve will lift off due to the wear on the head/valve plate allowing main pressure to go back to the combination suction side/case drain. You will notice there is no case drain hose. When you let go of the joystick the plate re seats and it it good until it lifts off again. You will see the wear when you take the pump apart. They are not overly technical. Take pictures to help you on reassembly. Don't know what wildhorse trnr means about bronze bushings in that pump. You should try to get a hold of a repair manual for that machine or pump as there are numerous measurements to check for wear on the parts. FYI EX270 EX300 dash 1 2 3 EX330-5 or 370-5, ZX330 and all the Deere equivalent. The pump and case are all the same. The head is different on the EX330 and 370 and the regulators on all are set up different. So if you get a hold of one of these manuals you can measure the parts with it. Do not touch the settings on the regulators.
Would it be in the service manual cause i could go buy one. for a ex300lc-2 tho would that matter
That would work for most of your machine. Defiantly the pumps. Just to add to the differences of the dash 2 and the dash 3. The dash 2 has a EPVC. Engine pump valve controller. All in one while the dash 3 has a separate PVC and EC. So the electronics would be some what different. The travel motors are also different. If you can pick it up for a good price I would get it.
it would probably be about 250.00 i have no clue what these books are worth for this machine i knowone for my dozer was like 650.00
they got you to just got d4 books yesterday parts and service 612.00$
GCC, did a quick look around and found this--I'm sure there are others. http://cgi.ebay.com/Hitachi-EX300-2-excavator-workshop-service-Manual-/250516298155
thanks you didnt need to do that
This would probably be handy, too. http://cgi.ebay.com/HITACHI-EX300-PARTS-MANUAL-/270707870002 This other site has all sorts of parts and service manuals. It looks like the "Zaxis" book may be 3rd party books that cover "major components", but probably not everything. http://stores.ebay.com/Equipment-Ma...d=508378627&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2 The books above refer to "Workshop Manual"; This next one appears to be a more thorough major repair service manual. http://cgi.ebay.com/Hitachi-EX300-2...BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item2eb2993339&x=22&y=7 More examples: http://cgi.ebay.com/Hitachi-EX300-2...16126?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item3cb46157de This source in the "UK", and I don't think they mean University of Kentucky. I bleary-eyed and can't be of much real help. Some references are to EX300-2, others to EX300LC-2; I'm daft and don't know the difference or whether the books are close enough. Hope this examples give you some hope in finding the manuals you need.
The one you listed is actully is one of the ones I'm looking at the big thick binder I figure will have the most info in it I'm going to talk to a guy tomorrow and see what the retail price for a service manual is but ill probably get this one as a could just imagine what a service manual is worth for this machine if I was going to buy the proper manual I might as well start sawing my arm and leg off and give to them
OK so what I see from the links on ebay, are an EX300-1 parts manual not a components manual. That one is not really any help. EX300-1 is very different from the EX300-2-3-3C machines. It is more like a bigger EX270-1. The Orange binder Service Manual EX300-2 is close as I explained earlier. And if you get it at a good $ not a bad deal. I think they retail for about $600 and are now a 3 part photocopied manual. Not as clear as the Orange binder one. If you need parts diagrams for your pump just go on the Deere parts website and punch in 892DLC and that is exactly the parts list you would need. Now while I say it is exactly the same I have to qualify that. All the individual parts are the same. The complete pump and the separate regulator would be different part #s as the settings for the regulator are different than the EX300 series machines.
If the head is worn these pumps can become quite expensive I woiuld disassemble the pumps firs before buying these parts and see where I stand. I have rebuilt quite a few of these and sometimes in the past the cost of parts came within a few hundred dollars of what the dealer would sell me new one for ( Old New Stock )
What are the differences between a EX300LC-3 and EX300LC-3C and EX300LC-5. my uncle can get methe service manual on a cd down in flordia but they dont have the EX300LC-3 other then on on book.
When hey make changes to a machine model they designate it a series 1 or series 2. They do not make changes to machines every year like they do cars so when they do make changes they change the series ( or - ) number. Not to be confused with serial number breaks where just small changes or one part changes on the machine
How long do these pumps last normally I've got about 7000 per set so far but I change my oils every 1000hrs or end of season. Also how can I test these pumps.
I have gotten a hell of a lot more than 7000 hrs out of these pumps but remember everything that affect them, from dirt to contaminated fluid to plugged oil coolers to wrong fluid. Why do you think they are gone? Best test is a pressure and flow test. but you can get away with a pressure test and function speed test. Where the high pressure lines comes out of the pumps there is a small plug you can tap into although sometimes these have pressure switches screwed into them also there is usually to # 12 hydraulic hoses that come down right below there and they just are blocked off 3' away by the frame. you can put a #12 orfs plug in the end of that hose that is drilled and tapped 1/4 " NPT with a pressure guage screwed into the plug. you will only see about 1000 psi on the guages until you dead end a control that that pump operates then ou will see whatever the main relief valve is set too. Do you know how to crank up the main relief valve? E-mail me the serial # of the machine and I will get you exact specs but you are looking at just under 5000 psi and just over 5000 psi with travel functions. my e-mail [email protected]
EX 300=3 hydraulic problems needs restart when cold My EX 300-3 has a control lockup up problem that has me. When cold, my rear pump will lockup and I will lose a function. Usually it it one track or a boom up issue. When I turn the machine off and restart, all is back but will happen over and over until the oil warms up and frequency reduces. When this happens, the pump will squeal. and the main line from the pump to control valve, which gets totally pressurized and feels like it if filled with buzzing bees. All of that stops after a restart. I did previously, replace an o-ring in that regulator to stop a leak and fear I may have started the problem then. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Dan
Sounds like you have a relief valve failing until its warm and what ever function ur using at time just keeps running cause valve doesn't close i had this happen and it built up enough pressure to bring motor to a stop and could not roll over till i manually open valve by valve to release pressure and then replace bad valve and never had an issue after that.