Hello guys, just joined this forum hoping to gain some knowledge. I have just purchased a 1998 JD 450G LT with 4,000 hrs on it, large root rake with it, 6 way blade, pedal steering. It runs good. I paid 15k for it. I purchased it knowing it had a few lower rollers bad and drive sprocket getting a bit sharp on the ends. Otherwise the machine appears to be in decent shape. This is my first dealings with a dozer so I am new to all of this. I purchased it to work on my farm. The last 2 lower track rollers on each side closest to sprocket have bearings gone. Roller is flopping. I have purchased 4 new replacement rollers. I have also purchased 2 new drive sprockets. My questions are...... 1. Can I change just these 4 rollers (two on each side, both sides 2 closest to sprocket) and still run the machine without changing all of the rollers? There are 6 rollers on each side. The remaining rollers appear fine. I will eventually change them all but was hoping to start some work with it before. 2. Is there any "tricks" to getting rollers off? I know about getting the slack in chain, jacking it up, removing the 4 bolts holding the roller assembly. But again have never "worked on one". Just read about it. 3. On the drive sprockets, now I have read that I should not change the drive sprocket because it will accelerate the wear on the track pins/bushings. I have not measured the bushings yet but have visually inspected them. They do have wear on the top side but no cracks and to me compared to the top side of pin does not appear to have excessive wear. Should I change the sprockets or leave them alone ?? 4. I do not want to pull chains/tracks off to replace chains or have pins turned at this time. Was hoping to get 3-400 hrs out of it before having to do something major with tracks. Is this acceptable thinking here ?? The machine runs excellent, 1,000 service just performed on all fluids. Tracks straight when driving. Pedal steer. I am using this to clear debri from having 30 acres clear cut and clearing fence rows to ready for replanting of pines. No pushing stumps other than the small 3-4 inch ones. The plan was to use it for clean up over the next year or so and re sell. Any help, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!!
I would go ahead and replace the four rear rollers, if you're doing fine grading it might annoy you some, otherwise it should be okay. The 450G should have sealed and lubricated (SALT) track chains with a rubber plug in one end of each track pin, if it does, just measure the pitch on several links spaced around each side. Deere sez it's 160mm or 6.29" center to center on the pins. The whole claim to fame on SALT track is since the pins are lubricated they don't wear much internally and the pitch doesn't stretch out. As long as the pitch remains close to factory, go right ahead and throw new sprockets on her. Ask your local Deere dealer to send out a service rep to measure your undercarriage for free, when the bushings get real close to 100% it's time to think about turning them IF you don't have many dry joints. The rep will let you know. Be polite, thank him kindly, resist the pleasant but insistent sales pitch to do something expensive if he starts down that road, LOL! :IMO
Not sure but wouldn't a 1998 have a split master link?
there's another thread on here about running undercarriage's all the way out . once you take it off you will just scrap it anyway
The machine came with SALT tracks as standard with split masters, any replacement chains if they've been changed could have been sealed or SALT and would have had split masters either way most likely. Yes, depending on the condition of the links and the bushings, how many dry joints you have if SALT and the cost locally of doing a turn it may be more cost effective to run the chains to destruction or near it and then do a complete undercarriage replace, except possibly the track shoes. Still should put new sprockets on though.
Just be aware that mixing a new roller with old worn ones could accelerate wear on the bearing. Do a few hours work,if you can't hold your hand on the new roller it won't last. Bill.
Thanks for the great information !! I am at work now, be away from home for a month. My plan is to change the 4 bad rollers because they are gone. On the comment of checking for heat in the bearing, I am assuming that this would be on the "New" rollers? I will see if I can get a JD rep out to look at the machine also. Sounds like a good idea. I have looked for a master link but have not been able to find it. Previous owner even mentioned about removing it to change rear sprocket. I guess I may not know exactly what I am looking for. So you think that I should change the rear sprocket and 4 rollers and barring any excessive heat from rollers is it safe to say I could get 3-400 hrs around the farm?? The plan is to change all rollers but time and money restraints have me spacing this out a bit. Plus I will be doing the work myself. Thanks again for the suggestions and info. I need all the help I can get !!!
If you look on Machinery Trader or Rock and Dirt websites you will find a place where they list dismantled machines, find some 450G listings, call around and see if you can buy some good used rollers that are about 50%, should be cheaper and will match your existing rollers better than new. Just a thought. If you have a split master link it will look something like #24 and 25 If you have the pin type master, the pin will have a dimple in the center of the end, marking it like #34:
lantraxco thank you ! Great info and appreciate the info. I indeed did look for some used rollers. Found a few but by the time I figured in the cost of shipping I could purchase the rollers new from a local supplier. So that is what I did. They are aftermarket of course but at 99.00 a roller and no shipping I thought what the hell. On the drawing that is great. Thanks for sharing. Got to ask though, I remember the previous owner saying there was a master link and believe he said a split link. On the split link, how does that come apart? Are the 2 halves bolted together or they just drop down into each other? Thanks again !!
There are four long bolts that go through the master track shoe and blind thread into the bottom half of the split link. Sometimese these resist removal. I would suggest always replacing those bolts with new from the dealer and using anti-sieze compound on the threads when installing.
Got it, makes perfect sense now. That should be easy enough to find. Find the shoe that does not have nuts protruding in the link. Man thanks a lot!