Got my 951C (86J3065) started up and ran it around the field this morning. It died, just like when I shut it down. Fuel is very low, primed the system which was empty, turned it over, no start. Thought maybe if I give it a boost it will prime and all good. Hit it with a little ether kI know bad idea) and as soon as I turned it over it starts making a metal clunking sound every revolution. So not so good. Thinking a rod bearing. Understand ether not the best choice, but assuming something was not happy already. Unless there is some other issue that will make a metallic sound when it turns over (somewhat ruled out valve, but anything is possible) I've stepped way back on this machine. Still have to go through all the bushings and pins... Looks like reman 3304 engines are way more than I can justify, used still pretty high for a farm machine. Kits a lot less, but assume machine shop costs are going to run a pretty penny. And of course it doesn't make money, so payback is all in experience and offset from hiring equipment out. At least that was the idea. And of course it is stuck in the middle of a field... Any advice on where to go from here? Or a good lie that it is really not that bad...
Fist off you get bonus points for listing the model and S/N in the first sentence of the posts. Those points can be redeemed for valuable free advice! No direct knowledge of 3304's other than they have balance shafts in the bottom end. Problem is sometimes parts of those can come loose and that is not a good thing. I would not recommend trying to run it anymore. Any way to move it without running it? Might pay to remove oil filter and cut it open to see if there is anything in there to scare you even worse! If it is possible to work under there and get the oil pan off so you could remove a couple rod caps or main caps at atime to see how they look? I will attach the instructions on removing the engine if it come to that:
Never towed a track loader, not sure how well it will steer? But sure I could.
Just pour a quart of oil in it, shoot it with some ether, and all will be fine! Don't worry baby, I'll pull out. The check is in the mail. Only driven to church by a little old lady on Sundays.
Could be lots of other things... like the connection to the transmission... fan or pulleys on the front of the motor... I'd get access to move the crankshaft by hand/bar and see what that feels like clear over and rocking it. So... how much ether is 'a little'??? is this like a one second full power burst??? or more like holding the can in the intake for 30 seconds then run around to hit the key? And did it actually start when you tried to boost it... or is this noise strictly while just cranking it?
Go back to my post, edited it to give a bit more info, like how to pull engine! You also say it makes the noise "as I turned it over it starts making a metal clunking sound every revolution." Does this mean you did not actually start it just cranked it over a bit? If so I might try turning it by hand to see if it still makes the noise.
Ether locked if it knocks while cranking. If she started and was banging, odds are the stall was a result of something bad, like a doubled up rod or main that got knocked loose when cranking with starter. If shes ether locked or fuel knocking, you could just pull the air cleaner and let her air out a bit. No dust while the ground is frozen.
I've towed a 955 with a dynahoe, you just have to really stomp the brakes when you are moving to get some turn.
I went back after I let it sit a bit. Got to thinking it was a bit fuel locked. It turned over and started. Still has a thump I don't like, not good enough with these to have a good idea of what is bad and what is tuning. I have a few sins to take care of. Probably need to clean up or flip the plate in the starter. It turns slow with batteries full up. Also have a cable splice that I think has more resistance than it should. And all the fluids are suspect... But other than that, I'm close to the begining of sorting this machine. Would love to go through rhis one like nitelite did his...
Well one thing that would be good to do is pull the oil filter and cut it open and see if there is any metal in there before running it any more. Might also try to make a video of it while starting and running. Someone might have an opinion on any noise it is making.
Ether Knock is not abnormal, may have allowed fuel TOO low and sucked air. Get it back to where you have a Structure access and add Fuel to keep it running.
I've got the batteries out charging now. Back to being stalled again. Had a friend pass away suddenly at 47 this week. Kind of of derailed me altogether. Puttering around this weekend thinking about life, not getting much done...
Have had a few weeks as that over the years, never fun. Our own mortality sneaks up and knocks at the front door on occasion.
These do have 'Pucks' in the drive coupling that enjoy failing at the least opportune time
Not being familiar first hand with this machine is one of the reasons I suggested cutting open a filter before going to panic mode. If no metal in there then you can slowly check out other things keeping a close ear to any change in noises. Also try rocking it back and forth by hand to see if you can hear any thing that way. You may find the noise is those pucks on the way out.
I just bought a decent looking D4D with a bad 3304 engine for cheap. The previous owner, a small contractor and a pretty knowledge mechanic figured it had a "fuel knock" when he bought it. Loosening injector lines one at a time never got it to stop. Finding two rod bearing halves in the bottom of the oil pan and two bent rods tells the real story. Looking for a crank now.
I think I'd be having a look-see at them, if for no other reason than to eliminate the possibility that they were causing the knock.
That's an ouch........although it all depends on how cheap "for cheap" was I guess.
I bought it for $2,000, 80 miles from home. He had a yard full of equipment to load it with so it was am easy retrive. 8 foot straight blade, D4E winch, full protection canopy. Tracks are 30 percent left but probably plenty enough left for as many hours as I put on my toys.
Taking this week off (or attempting to) with intention of getting some things done. Took longer to get back from funeral than we planned. Now it is Christmas eve, so we'll see... I'll have to find out more on the coupling pucks. Sounds painful. I have a set of books. They are reproductions, haven't decided how good they are yet... Batteries are full up now, but need to look at my cables. I did a splice, but it isn't as solid as it should be, also found some insulation that is looking poor under the batteries. And of course all of the hold downs are not fuctional... also need to read through thebpostbon the starter again and make sure it is working well. The thump I feel in my feet more than hear. I've run it less than 20 hours since I bought it, only one with the bucket on it, but have known it needs full maintenance. Engine oil is pretty ugly (need to research what you guys are running in these now). It drops below the low idle indication once it warms up. Can keep it in that "low idle" range with a few rpm's, but it doesn't hold working pressure. I'm hoping that is more oil related, but could be lying to myself again. As has been said, I think I ether locked it before. Surprised a bit as I hold the can maybe 5 secs as I'm cranking. Could have been 10 this last time, but dont think so, but did hit it over three tries. I had run the fuel too low, have a few gallons in it now. It seems to run as it did. Unfortunately my confidence in what I'm doing is pretty low. Diesel experience is limited, work too much, and have few places to work, none with any cover. Bought it to help build the shop, among other farm related tasks... Much to learn, hopefully spending only what I need to make it right (hate spending money to make it wrong). I am sure I can do it, but probably need a little help. Just have to get beyond the perpetual beginning part.
Take a look under the floor right at the back of the engine. You're looking at #4, there are four of them.
Pretty intensive alignment process to keep from self destructing replacement pucks, if are coming apart need to check engine mounts cushions and boltings.
Thank you. Was looking at the alignment procedure. Not sure I understand. It says pulling the deck plates is the only removals required, but the procedure looks like the engine has to be disconnected in order to get the measurement tooling in place. Of course the dial fixture is another animal. I'm sure there is another way, or a DIY, but not there yet. Shimming and engine jacking do seem pretty involved. And I've not yet got a set of cylinder locks fabbed up yet. So generally nervous about woking under loaded hydraulics. Especially knowing half of mine leak. Need to see if I can find the specs to build a set, Have the pic in the manual, but not f=very clear on what they are actually build up from. I'm sure others have made them...r To do it all (maintenance and service) and keep these running pristine I'm guessing is rarely done due to down time and cost. Otherwise these would probably all still be running excepting fuel consumption. But that is a different conversation entirely.
Finally got to pull a few panels on this thing and change the oil. Was surprised that the was only about an inch of muck on the bottom of the unit. did not see any metal int he oil, just black as soot. The oil pressure did come up into the operating zones on the gauge after the change though, so feel a bit better there. Also found that the last owner had missed a filter on the hydraulics, so it has essentially not had a filter as it could just run over the top in the path of least resistance. It has both in there now. Hopefully that doesn't cause me to learn about the inner workings of the hydraulic pump in the near future. Starting is getting harder, but the starter seem to be slower and slower. Really need o get a tach and take a look at the starter. I'm doubting I'm making the min 160 rpms... Haven't got a good look at the flex couplings yet. Stays on the list along with getting the rest of the gauges to work. I have pressures but no temps and no hour meter. and couple thousand other immediate needs... It is a new new decade though, so nothing but hope in the future.
Did you cut open the old engine oil filter and look for metal particles in the bottom of the pleats..? That's where you're likely to find evidence rather than in the old oil that was drained (unless the engine had already failed in catastrophic fashion in which case you'd be shovelling metal out of the bottom of the oil pan.)
I haven't opened it yet. Had flooding, work, and travel burn up my time again. Will try to get a look at it maybe sometime this weekend, but rainy cold and no shelter, keeping the filter so I can look at it at some point...