Well have decreased the projects list considerably, down to the landscaping and mowing with cleaning out the excess crap in the workshop. Headed to OKLA this Friday, get the KW Picked clean and ready to load for JY, then haul a wad of little stuff back to the house. Next week will be nothing but cleaning and storing to organize enough to get the wagon pushed in head end out and start my end of it. First Estimate is in for C15 Overhaul and Head, is incomplete but tallied $7450 +/-, have a second fella setting up a quote for all on the list he can obtain thru IDP, will see as that comes in. Final say as to needs is cleanup of all the already removed materials then strip the pistons and sleeves inspect the block deck, time to drag out the old straight edge after scrub the deck clean.
So what are you going to do with this KW when fixed up?
You are doing it NOW!!! Thinking something as this:
I was thinking more along the lines of a 20’ shipping container so it wouldn’t leak in 5 to 10 years, bullet resistant to certain calibers, more insulated, strong and not full of formaldehyde. Go Airstream if you do.
Momma is a tad soft for that!! She is into Creature comforts of Home so we will eventually buy a USED, not threadbare unit. Harley will ride secured in the rear for when we get to where want to be. And I do own a BMG .50 Rifle, do not need much bullet resistance at distance.
Something along this line, eh ? It has no ramp in the back but it does have a souped up engine
NAH, gonna be a pin drag unit I can disconnect. Will not be This wild, but similar!!
This guy has a LeCar on the rack
In MO can License the Class 8 as a RV, requires Minimal Mods, as in a Generator on the frame and fridge IN The Cab, then the Truck becomes a Toter. In all but 17 states, NO Special License to Operate!! In the 17(Incl CA KS TX NV NM and WY) requires a CDL, no intent to go East if do not have to!! WHY Rely on a Pickup Truck when CAN drive one of these! https://www.campanda.com/magazine/rv-special-drivers-license-requirements/
My same thought process on owning a semi instead of a truck, though I have learned from my years on the road a single unit is cheaper than pin drag unit. Plus one can see and experience more with a single unit from my experience. Once you hit the road here is good websites to navigate to look for places. www.campendium.com www.freecampsites.net
Owned a bumper pull years ago Equalizer hitch was a screeching finger pinching POS but distributed weight Ok. Owned a early fifth wheel no tip/slide outs tiny inside cramped but no worse than a motel room or eating at a diner. Axles and brakes were weak tires crap but serviced well in how used. Brother owns a Class B RV, invested in a tow bar and a trans disconnect system for a later Jeep Wrangler, couple grand tied up there where those obsolesce pretty fast including the jeep. Mercedes chassis RV has Can Bus electrical that he is educating himself on as to using tail/stop lights on the jeep when tow, plug and play systems are not so friendly. He is happy with his as is, even with all that, his wife likes being able to move into housing area while moving. A trailer can be parked on a spot in a campground and locked down essentially holding the spot, a Class B you need to drive to the store or elsewhere and can lose your spot. Towing another car is tricky on its own. I have used a 3/4 or ton to pull trailers for decades, wears them hard as to drive train, brakes, tires, suspension. My F250sd has had both rear springs changed twice, two third member rebuilds, and a full drive line swap as the balance weight exploded fell off! Do not want to remember how many sets of tires been thru or brakes and just in 330,000 miles. My early GMs were gutless in towing in hills, the 7.3 I have now eats drive train as too much engine for light duty sub-systems. Should have bought a two ton years ago and could not get there, would have been money ahead. KW is not a perfect choice it is the available choice, was going to be a ‘63 Autocar but that did not work up so well!! And the KW presented itself. Will be loads of work but I do sorta get enjoyment of that, self abuse is more like appropriate wording! Hard to beat the mechanic out of me, yet is getting there.
I wish I was as rich as all you guys LOL
LOL, if was wealthy would be buying NEW with a extended warranty to NOT work on it!!!
Well if you really wanted to have a first class outfit you'd just wait till Truckshop was done building that "B" model Mack!
Rich haha, I'm on retirement pension I just buy broken things for dirt cheap and resurrect them to life with touch of personalization. As for money to pay for traveling, that goes into fuel I don't pay to park the rig anywhere. For the price I paid in my PV system (that I built myself) I have made back by skipping campgrounds and don't have to run generator all the time that would suck fuel, maybe once the 3rd day rolls around without sunlight I will fire it up to recharge. Too bad you didn't get the ZF6 instead of the 4R100, but who knew. My 96 F Super Duty 7.3 AKA F450 of the day came with that Dana 80 you have now, and 10 lug wheels. Yeah it had the 16's on it but I eventually got some 19.5's from a GM motorhome and bored the inside hub out with cutting torch and grinder and those wheels lasted forever. The F450 of those years had more of drivetrain and frame than most trucks of it's day, it couldn't be killed, only Achilles heel was the transmission brake behind the ZF5. Only reason I changed the springs out in rear in 9 years I owned it was some idiot spun me out passing in Oregon on ice roads while pulling equipment trailer. Twisted rear axle springs bent the flatbed and snapped the pintle on the truck, they towed the trailer to nearest wrecking yard I went got new pintle hitch and within 4 hours I was back on the road, the car that hit me was totaled and I managed to drive on to Texas. Well as time progresses post pictures of your trial and tribulations when you get it we love pictures here
WAAAYYY Too Expensive!!!!
I bet we could talk him into a "Friends and Family" discount!
if like My Own, pity the Friends OR Family!!!! No Cheap For You!!!
Liked the smoothness of the ZF6, DID NOT Care for the TO bearing Eating Hydraulic Clutch, and when Did Fail internally not much to save, expensive to build. Dana 80s are damned near bulletproof, yet too the old Eaton Two Ton series pumpkin Differentials. Taller Tires, better gearing, depends of needs and availabilities.
DMiller is right the guy who owns that mack pile of mine is going to pay for it, just kidding. It ain't going to sell for what you folks think it will. The day I see it loaded on a lowboy headed away from the yard will be a good day for me.
It will likely be more road worthy then whatever is pulling the lowbed!
Anxiously waiting for the trip pictures of the KW and the adventures that entailed, it is Friday...
Will have to await to NEXT weekend, illness struck at the other end, uncertain of 'Rona' and test results not back in time to make the trip.
Do you not have a CDL? It is a lot of red tape, if you do it my way your patience will be tested to the limit. I took the "written test" on one trip. The test guy said no medical card needed inside VT. I arrived with borrowed truck, trailer, and licensed CDL driver for my road trip. Same man: "Where is your medical card?" I responded: "You told me I didn't need one." He comes back with: "Who told you that?" I: "You did." He: "The law is going to change in July, we're enforcing it now." Next trip: borrowed truck, trailer, CDL driver, he was still cheerful about it, said he didn't mind the outing, brought his laptop, said he'd get some work done. The test guy failed me on my pre trip inspection. I failed to inspect landing gear & headboard on the trailer. I pointed out there is no landing gear, or headboard on this trailer. He replies: "You need to point that out" Also, I failed to inspect the windshield, and mirrors. I said I had checked them before I drove 25 miles to the test site. Next round, they could find no record of me having an appointment. Another wasted trip with borrowed equipment, wasting another man's time. I owe him big by now! He was still encouraging about it, but I sensed his patience was waning. I made yet another appointment. Last trip was scheduled for a Monday. I called my driver to make sure all was a go. He said he couldn't spare the time, he had let registration lapse on his truck & trailer. I went into high gear, put $2000. in new parts on my old truck, Seth & I spent 4 days working on it. I found a retired trucker with a valid CDL to accompany me. Test day, I spent about 2 hours on the most thorough pre trip inspection, quoting word for word from the manual. Features my equipment didn't have were mentioned. I crawled around under the truck until the test guy called the pre trip off. Backing into the dock is a tricky thing to do in the required space with a pintle trailer you can't make a sharp angle between truck & trailer. There were 2 State trucks parked in the course. He wanted to know if I could manage with them in the way? I didn't know if it was a trick question. "Yes, I'll need the allotted space." "Backing into a dock" test went OK. Road test was uneventful. I believe State DMV personnel would like to prevent occasional users of personally owned trucks from getting licensed. In my many trips i saw a few Cassella Waste Inc. new drivers coming in for CDL testing. One had a helper for the written test. Another looked like he had slept in his dirty clothes, including work boots with no laces. I wondered if he was unable to tie shoelaces.
I DO have my Class A, MPTX endorsements on it, IF and when this occurs the license will devolve to a Class A 'M' Endorsement(Scooter), will drop Passenger(P), Tank and Hazmat(X) and Multiple trailers(T). Only have to cert for Med testing then, no more renewal exams or FBI Background Checks and lowers costs by close to half. Will not have wife go there as she can drive in other states by conventional license as need be, I will remain behind the wheel otherwise in the CDL States, even as we should graduate to a REAL class 7 Toter with a Auto Trans
Texted with JY this morning, tests were Negative for the 'Rona' but by what he had posted to me they were due for a slack weekend so worked out well for them to get needed rest and recovery. Always another weekend to get this done. Time is not standing still but not pressing either.
Know it is ONLY Tuesday, but already set to go to JYs Friday. Keeping fingers crossed nothing jumps up and shuts it down this time.
All back from trip and off loaded New battery box and tool box covers tread plate and slick Four additional rims Stack and shields set of new half fenders Old head with electronics interface intermediate cover a tote of head misc and a box became a bucket of head bolts misc fasteners
Truck was in JYs shop Was not too much effort pulling drop axle and chain rack Truck will need some cleaning Did get a tire holding air l rr
Glad to see you made it back! Also glad I missed the work
Will be scrounging the local large car salvage yards, see if I can come up with tool box(Maybe two) and battery tray box, have two covers each for those currently. Right fuel tank MAY get sold with that mount location used for other materials as has front 1/3 set up Hydraulic for wet kit no longer on it. Once sort and clean what have await the rest to show.
Looks like you'll have a nice rainy week to get started. Great shop work weather. They're saying close to 3" by me. Looks like you could get sleet/ snow?
Rain mix with snow tomorrow, all snow Tuesday. Won't stay long as ground too warm.
Oh man, I just found this thread about your project. Cool beans, looks like its going to be a fun project and useful when you're done.
Good thing is you can buy parts for that, the A Car would have been far worse than my mack. It was far easier for me to just change everything and build what was needed. Although yards around here get picked clean when a W900 hits the dirt. Just the price of a KW toggle switch at average price of $40.00 bucks makes a one cringe. Wiper arms $150.00, cab and engine mounts ridiculous, but those can be had aftermarket. The cab and hood look good shape are the doors fairly tight?
Old cab and sleeper compartment doors are tight Hood is typical small edge scratches but no big gnarls or busts JY has kept pest blocks in it so no real rodent damage can see but did have quite a nest on the engine. Considerable sun and time damage to exposed rubber parts bags lines, hood guide bumpers are corrupting Need to replace much of the hood insulation blankets. Cab Carpet sections are raised in spots so most likely will need to peel that up see what is happening under.
Does have a few cab rivets beginning to head rust are a couple popped rivets on drivers door outer skin and the typical for age pulled door panel screws, lower pouch pocket elastic is done and door entry lights crushed. They are never new again when used Just have to pick my battles and challenges as important or cosmetic.
How's the exhaust under cab, is the Y pipe in ok shape? Always seems the stainless flex between left elbow and Y pipe is toast. I always check that when transmission is out plus the foot valve.
Exhaust is done, been rotted thru for some time, stacks are off piping patched in and repaired. Thinking of a Road Pipe system ahead of rt duals as on car haulers if keep it, if not will 'Y' it and reset the stacks. Pipe support pads under the cab corners are still there. Did not try the foot valve, know to pull the cross pin, clean up around the apply piston, check the valve for free movement, been unused a LONG time.
Another 'If Keep' or Wife allows to keep will be rear full fenders, if becomes a trade will use the half fenders up on it. When it finally gets here first order of business is to empty everything in cab, dump anything that even hints of mouse nests, straighten out and up for good inspections all way around to build up the needs and cosmetics lists. May put it outdoors at some point after engine work, rent a blaster and clean off the bubbled paint along rear rails, not really sparkly clean but enough to re-cover and slow any built up building in corrosion, tail plate is 1/2" by appearance, edge and center welded reinforcements, may add a Class 4 hitch socket and lighting plug for lighter trailers or use of a tow bar for something else. Tail lighting gonna get a major revamp. Rear cab work lights are off, high mounts still there, may go back on as will sleeper side rear corner lights.
One IMPORTANT is Air tank mounts, when move fuel tanks forward the Air system was realigned to fuel tank cross brace supports, will need to either find or build air tank frame mounts. Comes a good point to inspect them for rust pockets or burn thru. Already figuring on brake relay and QR valves as Type 30 maxi's been sitting too long.
FINALLY believe my little workshop is ready. Everything for the most part on the Left side looking in is mobile, on rollers or wheels, a old Microwave range hood and a old table are at the cardboard box and will leave shortly to scrap and trash. Tractor is my forklift/push truck/general purpose extra ass. Plywood 2x bench is for parts arranging off and for back in, temporary for now.
Nice -n- tidy.
Talked to Tocci today, he mentioned a water leak/useage on his A model KW. He was worried sick it was a head, gasket or liner seals. I asked him if they did an oil cooler when if was OH’d last year.....uhhhh I don’t think so. That’s my guess knowing the guy that built it for him. He does damn good work. Assuming that’s all it is I expect to be headed your way weekend after this coming assuming all is well with Rachel.
Just found your project thread. This looks like a lot of fun! Full steam ahead
Keep the little gal attended JY, this is NOT a priority move!! Really like her and you need to make sure she is fine first.
i will be following this with interest
Going to be one tight fit!
Snug!!
Couple items, over the last week been BORED TO TEARS so built a end cap for Bar Cabinet and a Small shelf for the D/S tv shelf, also built a Push pole to use IF NEEDED on the truck connect tractor to one end and KW Tow Eye at other to maneuver and manhandle it. Tomorrow I go to Strafford MO, TCS div Larson and pick up a Battery box(Aftermarket) that came in, did order 1/8" sheet aluminum bent to rebuild the Tool Storage Box for Right Side from my metals source and have ordered Hucks from TS & JPV noted Supplier.
Will post as I find what I find at TCS.
Well I have job for you if your bored-50 dash cameras to install, I already have changed out 15 of them. Nice boring job.
Sure I can jump in on that deal on my way back through
Bored is not something I have ever experienced for long. Worst is when I've had to take someone to hospital emergency room. The waiting is unbearable!
Short long trip, Damn Dog got me up EARLY in gastric distress so once his business done and wife headed to work Off I ran to Strafford. All packaged up and sealed tight but all OK, home before noon. Typical aftermarket, will need to revamp the lid attachment points but simple and doable MINOR Issue.
How did I miss this? Next time you're that close, let me know and I'll get you lunch. How's the new building at TCS? they built it last year, and I haven't been in it yet. When are you bringing the truck home?
Was in and out in less than ten minutes including loading time!! Just at 8:30am. Sorry about not letting you know CO New building is really nice they are working at laying out the lobby according to Brady the sales guy I dealt with. Garage spaces and warehousing all looked to be on a large scale new/newer. Worked really hard at making a good sale presentation to me. Truck delivery is anyones guess, Virus and personal schedules conflicts(both ends), even weather keep stepping in to mix it up as to haul timing setbacks. JY is a daily worker not a retiree like me!! Has a job to get done in between!! Think I am about as ready for the beast to arrive as can get.
Picked up my formed tins Huck tool to be here today and Lewis Supply should have my fasteners here early next week 1/4” coming from CA 3/16” coming pit of WA stores My metals shop has not the capacity to offset bend a 1/8” so opted tp a full strap to cover the gap
Came yesterday 16oz bp for size Awaiting fasteners
One thing to remember on those guns is when you squeeze the trigger let it pull the full stroke, let off until it fully returns and repeat until it pops. Short stroking it so it doesn't get a good grip can cause problems I have been told. You will find yourself looking for places to use it that would have never crossed your mind once you get the hang of it.
Getting things aligned here this morning. Cut out the Extra Sprue off the NEW Battery Box, very Sloppy but NOWHERE near to the $1600 for pieces to build New KW P/Ns. Still need to rebolt the Lid Bolt brackets around a 1/2" forward and square up the Left side(Leans OUT).
As got to that point wanted to get away from the Battery Tray went back to the Tool Box. Sides Off, set up and drilled first pin holes in Floor.
In Between had Dinner as Bird got done, Aftermath!! And Wife. She is picking the Carcass CLEAN.
All of next week will be perpetual turkey.
That will be probably my job for tomorrow! Turns out wife bought a quadriplegic turkey. She was looking for a small one as this year we are doing a two person Thanksgiving so decided to buy a small bird! Guess she missed the part that said it was just the two breasts with no wings or legs! Still should be good enough to make a bit of soup!
Perpetual turkey.
Geez DMiller, you will have that KW done before it even gets there. You will love the huckgun, monobolt gun, not sure what the correct name is. bought one 5-6 years ago. All kinds of uses for it.
There are many uses for a huck riveter. I think all houses should be built with 1/4" steel plate and 3/16" plate for exterior and interior walls with a 1/4" plate roof all riveted together. Bathroom should be a solid stainless tig welded construction with center floor drain and wash it out with a lawn sprayer with bleach and hose everything down. All cupboards riveted in place, chairs riveted in place, bed frame riveted in place. Mounted on pilings imbedded in the ground 20' deep with 1/4" steel shutters and two plate doors. Seat belts riveted to the chairs so when the hurricane/tornado comes along strap your self in and let it blow by. Be cool in the winter and hot in the summer plus it's hail proof. Want to add a bedroom just rivet one on.
Uh......yeah. Did you forget to take your pill?
Why yes I did thank you for reminding me.
I’ve had the same thoughts regarding a bathroom. Stainless steel with a built in hot water pressure washer with a central drain.
As soon as Tocci is feeling better and his truck is fixed we’ll be headed up there. Hoping next weekend if I get my concrete handled!
You forgot it needs to be shotgun designed home so you can open the back door up and take leaf blower to sweep it out It’s how I cleaned my 5th wheel out that was built from a shipping container.
Used to work for Simplicity (the screen mfgr), all our machines were held together with Hucks...It would always get everyones attention when the 1" gun went off. Lol Ed
Checked weather, just hoping will hold another week, rains this week sucked. We had a Huck Gun for the ALTEC equipment mount hardware that failed over time, believe it was 5/8 Hucks. Line crews got to know when a Bolt failed as would pop like a gunshot then ring when hit tool box tins, Only lost MAYBE 50 over the years on all the machines, chalked those up to either bad bolts or bad technique when drawn down. Always on areas with severe shifting side loading as on Corner Mounted Digger Derricks.
Get your heater ready, monday/tuesday looks cool.
Yep, winter is arriving. Have heat on one side of workshop(Tools side), may invest in a portable heat source for the truck bay side.
I got one of those Mr. Heater triple burners, warmed my last garage I rented 24 x 24 uninsulated no problem. Turned it on high and heated up in 30 minutes or so then maintained on low one burner with it mounted on 100 lb. tank. Works even outdoors and under a rig, mount mine on a ammo can full of sockets and holds it up no problem under a rig. It would eat a 100 lb tank in two weeks.
Got busy on the Cleaning Up part. So tired of the mess around mill and lathe, had my old shop box sitting at center of bay, waste of space. So box to furthest corner, started loading out junk and crap, SIX Forty Gallon Trash bags (No 6 in center of floor) and a mountain of metals going to Scrap Monday. First day of process first to last photo, Three buckets of Junk fasteners from the 7G and misc other steel scrap. Tank Sprayer in foreground going back to barn, small sprayer to the mower shed. Will end up all my welders and gas powered tools in here, the head pallet in large bay where truck will be. Hope done by Wednesday.
I'm finally getting around to sorting out my garage/workshop space today as well.
I have been wanting to do a big clean up of the shop all year. Theres to many things that shouldnt be saved but i hate to get rid of.
I know that feeling. I'm looking at piles of parts, miscellaneous hardware, construction materials that all "could have a use someday" and the saver in me wants to hold on to it for that "someday". I need to cut the emotional tie and junk it all. I'll feel sour the day I do, but I know I will feel better the next day. That said, nothing in my stash is old, antique or family heirloom. It could all be replaced tomorrow with a trip to town.
I could not find the Good Stuff from all the Crap Stuff laying in the way. Time called!!!
Me being in the junk business i find alot of stuff that i could use someday. I made the mistake of pushing the wheelborrow in the shop. Last month i was going to do somthing that i may have needed it and i hunted all over out side for it.
The only good thing about Covid is that last spring when the world shut down I spent a month in the garage. I built cabinets and shelves and got it organized. It is a little cluttered now but at least things have a place. Sure makes it easier to clean up. Just today I needed my longest magnet when I started dropping things into the belly of my Cat 931 while replacing an ugly to get at hose. I knew right where it was for the first time ever.
That wheelbarrow is so me! Any flat surface in or similar in my shop becomes a place to set things, "for the moment"
I follow the wife’s favorite philosophy ‘Will get round to it Later’ Did not appreciate the mound of Round Tuit’s I built for her in jest!!
delete
It would be a good day for me too!... if the lowboy was coming here
It is a sickness! Dad salvaged all he could from the farm when war forced a sale in early 1942. Where he stored it all those years, I don't know. My entire youth, three buildings were filled to the roof with the smalls from the farm that didn't sell. As I grew up I understood that the only way to move a precious item under roof was to build on. We added on for the Farmall Cub, then for the Jeep. By age 16 I built a 16 X 26 one bay garage so I would have a place to work on automobiles. Storage invaded even it. I now have six buildings full. Not sure I'd know how to empty them.
When my Grandfather passed we had to clean out his little workshop and from beneath their house trailer. Two old Clinton Chain saws, rusting and useless, boxes and tins of bent nails, stripped head screws, mounds to boxes of small lumber cutoffs and eventually Box upon Box of rags, used them for wipes to throw away when checked oil or had greasy hands, Moving boxes FULL. We burned trash for two days then got to the under workbench stuff, five one gallon pickle jars with oily appearing goo inside. Little brother tried to assist where he dropped the first one!! Was quite evident what was in the remainder as Rotted Shad Guts and pieces spread out and stank to high heaven, my brother puked in the mess instantly adding to the odor. Grandpa used them to coat his Cottonseed Cakes for Trot Line Fishing. FIVE GALLONS of that, went to the FURTHEST Ditch away to be dumped. Rafters were full, barely had room for a car in a one car wide garage, three deep freezes full of fish catches up to seven years old along with bags of day old breads they bought and froze that were dried out from being frozen. Dad was shocked by the wiring mess to run the freezers, in that had not caught fire.
When sales people or just people in general enter the company shop they always comment on how tidy it is. If I can't use it in the next six months in the scrap bin it goes, I can't stand clutter.
Easy - have a 'fire sale'! Eight years ago, my father in law's barn caught fire when a battery on a charger exploded onto some oily rags. Fifteen minutes later, 3600 sq ft of tools, equipment, and stored items were all incinerated to ash or blobs of their former selves. Today, he jokes about having a fire sale, but he wasn't much for joking back when he found out how badly he was underinsured against a total loss.
i may have to quit watching this thread. this hits too close to home and is getting me depressed
A friend of mine-Steve-has semi trailers and containers full of old 2 stroke detroit, cummins, cat, old gear box parts, flat head ford, you name it it's there. Scads of old logging equipment, A collection of 50's KW's that might make one good one, wore out logging trucks and just stacks of scrap steel. When scrap priced ever increase he is planning on dumping 80% of the hoard. He's had enough.
We had a total loss fire in 2010. You never want to go through that. We were underinsured as well as the replacement value of everything had skyrocketed. Somehow we found the will to move forward.
My parents house burned down the Sunday after Thanksgiving in 2006 due to an electrical problem. Scariest thing I've ever been in. Woke up at 5am to massive smoke, heat, and my mom screaming frantically. Nobody was injured, lost the family pet. Lost all the contents and half of their house. The other half was gutted to the studs, sealed and rebuilt. My dad was a residential builder and worked tirelessly to rebuild their home over the next 6 months with help from me, my brother and various friends along the way. My mom went into a deep depression that eventually cost her her job. I still don't think she's ever recovered completely from it. I learned a valuable lesson about insurance policies, how they are negotiated, how the adjusters are crooked devils, etc. I also learned to have the proper amount of insurance and to regularly update your policy.
Does your friend have any inline dd blowers he wants to scrap lol
He has several of those, problem is the freight to ship scrap iron doesn't add up. Hell he has two Hall Scott 1091's, a very complete 220 Cummins with Jakes, the list goes on. Most just junk.
Anyone neeeeeeeed one of these? He will sell this too.
This morning though colder was advantageous Carts and some odd stuff to sort but liking it
man do I know that drill
At work thats easy to do because some one else is paying for it and that guy dosent know that part that you need today was tossed last week. I wish i know the cure. If scrap ever got crazy high agin alot of stuff would go.
Cleaning up the shop is good, except when you throw out stuff from customers trucks. Last year when truck was in for inspection shop removed the chrome lug nut covers and caps and lost them/threw them out tidying up the shop, I was not impressed. Still gotta replace them, amazing how such small things like that make a truck look so much better. At least 1-2 times a year I clean out the garage and yard for stuff I don't need. Have lots of room, I just hate having things around that aren't worth selling and know i'll never use.
You can have stuff laying around for years thinking you might need it someday. Then after a few years figure you won't ever need it and throw it out. 9 times out of 10, 2-6 month's later you need it.
We don't throw out parts that are good--I send back at a restocking fee parts that are obsolete to our newer trucks. Parts that are used up are junk nothing else, keeping old air valves is a waste of time. We don't keep trucks past five years from the date we bought them. But keeping scraps of this and that because you might need it, that's a waste of shelf space. Most of our parts have core return so those automatically go away. Keeping old nuts and bolts--Grade 2 and 5 in the scrap bin only grade 8 and it better be in real good shape and if it could possibly been stretched in the scrap they go. U-bolts used are junk same with the tall nuts. Keeping old suspension parts is a waste of time. I can't have a truck broke down in Fargo because we short cut and installed questionable used parts-the boss pays me to take care of his equipment so that is what I do.
Soon as I ever get my trailer straightened out and the last load out I will stop by and he can load my trailer up
Do we get a discount for the color it is painted?
No discount, the price just went up.
Is that cause I am now getting a custom paint job done to my liking, sweet deal!!!
The only color he has is Cat Yellow a 55 gal drum.
Sounds like you got plenty of paint for that Mack and a matching trailer...
That paint is reserved for Volvos and Freightliners only.
I think that Mack looks absolutely pristine with the color it wears now.
See Theweldor knows.
Trying to say something about my Volvo I can care less what color that turns out to be, I will have it covered in clay dust in a day when back home. I think the Mack is nice in it's current color just poking fun.
That color was a total fluke/accident it wasn't the color I chose, close but not it.
Only $99.25 for my piles of crap, but is $99.25 I did not have when took it in!! All but the smaller stuff as tubing still attached to hoses and a few odd pieces remain in the barn from the Donor, ALL the scrap at the house is GONE. Wednesday 2 more large trash bags hit the curb and the trash is done until the truck arrives and cleanout begins. Hey Spud, I can recommend Mack Interior Guinea Green for the VOLVO, would make it Blend into the woodlot.
If I could find a sample I would be interested in seeing it. My heart is set on OD green for interior of anything, would love to on exterior but by the time one gets to asphalt it's the color of the clay dust. I managed to bust the back window out on the hatch on the car when taking off yesterday, C25 120 plus CF tank flew back and busted it out and rolled across the highway. Called up few places for price of glass and came to conclusion, cheaper to buy a hatch for the car doesn't matter the color, needs a bed liner paint job on it anyways.
Busy morning, loaded up the organic stuff for the ditch, then set to burning all the paper stuff, shop is nice and roomy now. So while getting barrel cooking, coyote gets stupid and is out where I can see. .243 One round, figured to 200yds, steadied up at post in foreground
Have had one that I am not thinking was this one getting really brave or maybe distemper coming within yards of the house but always out of shooting position, road behind, house behind etc. This one may have been a part of the infected as out in daylight, wide open area, within eye view of the house and saw me but discounted me as quickly. Better off dropped where it is, vultures will clean it up in a few days. Oh and had to be cautious here too, photo of the field view from the house, can just make out the house thru the trees up and to left of shoot point post.
Need to fill yourself a range card out
What is the weapon? Must not be a .243 at 2200 meters!
Not mine, just an example, from my experience some indirect fire weapon which wrong DA Form was used, guess they wanted to call in artillery!
That's cool, I have never seen one of those. Are those just used for actual ranges or do you use them elsewhere?
They are used by us infantrymen in the military, if you catch a POG with one they were just wishing they had a use for it. Basically lays out sectors of fire based on azimuth so we don't shoot our own and helps with right shot placement based on distance per distance of lines and terrain features.
UPS Delivered my Hucks last night, will be on that today. After trash, and a store and a USPS and a Bank run!!!!
Your shop is tidy indeed. That's not a bad way to go. If I don't use something in sixty minutes I usually don't remember where I put it. I have spent days looking for something I know I have and never find it until a month after I go buy one.
Tool box reassembled, have to do some work on step supports and get a step, then add the latch box to the base and paint. Nice and square, Lid was trial fitted and the bolt holes all lined up!! I added bracing to the back wall to floor more for my own peace of mind as seemed a long length unreinforced. Huck tool worked SWEET!
You will be Hucking every thing together now.
Maybe Not!!
Did get a start on the battery box, cheesy to say the least as to how was set up. Started by squaring the Left Side panel, had been welded AND Bolted, Almost missed BOTH Panels when they drilled it. Then the Cover Bolt Bracket holes, they were NOWHERE near to a Set dimension, drilled a Pilot where I consider will be correct, then welded the old holes closed
Will clean up these then situate the brackets and try the lid.
Yeah, from now on when a tough job comes up, you'll just say, "Aw huck it!"
Test fit this morning All the holes lined up
Oh honey, I know what I want for Christmas!!!
Dressed up welds, cleaned boxes and prepped, rattle can sealed for now. Will be situated out of the way for now, JY getting the move aligned so HOPING it is here next weekend. Time to get into the engine.
reminds me of the time i mangled the batt box lid for my freightshaker. $500 for a new lid !!!! so i unriveted the whole thing and 3hrs later it was useable again- not perfect but it was a work truck. i don't remember exactly how i bent it, but it happened while it was removed
The machine may get labeled Beast II, for being more than necessity and deemed a workload from day one!! My old Dodge W 300 was my Original 'Beast'. Wife seems unconcerned for the moment.
Not a W300. Here's my Dodge Power wagon: 1956 C4. First year for double frame 9500 LB option. Syncro trans. This one was & is free of rust outs, but had thousands of small dents. A Garwood 16Y winch in rear does double duty as dump power for the dump body I built. I couldn't get a windshield frame, It's been off the road a couple years. Vintage Power Wagons has reproduced the frame. They sell the whole assembly, powder coated black aluminum. Original windshield frames are scarce as chicken teeth. The new one is still wrapped in bubble wrap. One winter day I promise to get it into the garage, fire up the furnace, and tend to a few nagging issues. It's been drooling transmission oil around the gasket on the PTO, It has lost its brake fluid mysteriously. All brake components were new 500 miles ago. I hope it isn't serious. Truck has had all gearboxes gone through & resealed, several Speedy Sleeves on shafts. Engine was fresh 2000 miles ago. These had the 230 Flat head 6. They were a nightmare with failed head gaskets. The engine guy who rebuilt it kept telling me it was a timing issue. I assured him I had checked timing several times, both timing light & ohm meter. He finally came out to check it. Reached into the distributor, and demonstrated the rotor was able to move a few degrees rotation on distributor shaft. He brought a good one with him. This may have had duals when new, it has 4.89 ratio they used on the 6.50-16 tires as duals. I passed a car with it once!
Good old guy in Americus MO has THREE of these, One runner, two for parts, oldest is a 1958, newest a 1962. Runner has not got the OE Pickup bed but a flatbed, a Original Pickup bed sits upon one of the spares. He will NOT sell any of them and belongs to the Power Wagon Club. Also has a 1964 and a 1967 W 300 will NOT sell either of those either, I asked. BOTH are Slant six power 4:88 rears(Dana 70s) and typical NP435 4 spd on a divorced NP205 with PTO
They used a lot of iron! Why Vermont is SO obsessed with salt, I can't say. The W series Power Wagons disintegrated in two years here. Mechanically, they embarrassed the military styled Power Wagons. You won't find a civilian styled Power Wagon functional in this state.......except for a museum piece.
Cab mounts on my '69 W300 disintegrated as had the drop step inside the doors. The cab was getting bad where had a small faux paux and ended up replacing the entire cab structure to a 1973 Club Cab. Old Straight Frame was a eye full for MO SHP when got it Inspected for rebuilder title.
The chalk mark as to stop point is on the floor All I have now is piddle along clean up work and wait Weather is threatening this weekend already as to rains Friday Cold front Friday night Potential for wet snow fall Saturday so I suspect no truck until spring thaw now if can ever get it here. Just not in my cards for luck this go around.
If I were closer I would pick it up with the 900 and take it to your shop and back it in the shop. Snow, Ice-That wouldn't stop me it would only make me more determined. Besides it would look good a W900 towing another W900.
One sharp looking rig. I enjoy seeing pics every time you share them
Really like the look of the wrecker TS, so hoping to make this one gleam again
TS, Just noticed, the faded orange to the right of the Wrecker, old Allis hiding in the brush? In my dreams on rebuilding this one I envision full fenders and light bar tail lights. Your wrecker gave me that perspective.
That photo was taken on the old road to Seattle between the Burg and Cle Elum, That large AC has been setting there for years. That area is called Bristol Flats.
I worked at a place when i was younger that had a W900 3406 15 speed 4.11.It was very easy to drive and had power to spare it was just about perfect.I even put a pusher axle under it on bags so it could haul the big loads. The only thing i didnt like about it was were the air tanks were when the trans needed pulled but that didnt happen often.Years latter I spotted it setting on the back row at a machinery action i couldnt bear to go look at it. If i won the lottery i would have one just like it.I learned alot about trucks and hauling heavy loads in this truck if the law would have met up with me driveing this thing i would have learned about jail and the court system.
Well have a Pile of 'Stuff a GMC 7000 and the old Chevy 70 awaiting JY on the 20th. Chevy would not start again even after JUST used it, found gas leaking from one bowl so the Governed Holley is DONE, installed a Edelbrock AFB knockoff, all is good. Had to stretch the throttle linkage a bit and run a Acc side power to the Electric Choke where even on OLD gas works well, started Easy. a few minor adjustments to get it closer and then repaired a intermittent power to the Hydraulic Clutch Coil, bad Bullet connector, cleaned up a few items and it will now sit in the shop until a week from Sunday where will get moved back outdoors and await a chariot ride to Oklahoma. Air Cleaner Stud No Fitty New Carb so made a connector.
Engine compartment
That was a good choice, the other carb I like is the Summit retro reengineered Motorcraft 4100. https://www.summitracing.com/search...arburetors&utm_campaign=Brands S - Z (Search)
My C65 came to me with the original factory installed carb. It ran like it was fueled with water. I searched the world to find a mechanic qualified to work on these gas engines. My search led me back to Jack Edgerton (RIP). I had had a few engines rebuilt by Jack when he worked for a different machine shop. At one point I had rebuilt an International tractor engine, it ran like the Fourth of July. I rechecked timing using to the letter the instructions from two service manuals. Jack pointed out that language in both service manuals was word for word the same. A typo in one was a copied typo in the other. Jack said: "Try this" I tried, it purred! Jack solved several problems over the years, I had great respect for him. Engine was helpless. Jack said "When you get those engines to run JUST right, they got just enough power to drag a sick whore off a pis$ pot." When the 366 tall block engine was all over the place in timing, other mechanics said "timing chain" "If timing chain is worn out, the rest of the engine can't be far behind." I discussed it with Jack. He felt it made more sense to rebuild a 427 than a 366. He supplied the block. Reassembling the engine, a friend was looking at the distributor, he said: "Huh, the stop pin is broken off on timing advance." Oh well, the bigger engine was a better fit. In all the effort, I had changed to Edlebrock. The truck still plagued me with its inability to climb steep hills. Easy enough to blame a small engine. It wasn't until the summer before I sold it, the problem became absolute. Earlier it required a FULL gas tank, that summer a full gas tank didn't help. Found a cannister fuel filter under the passenger floor. It was in the suction line between tank & pump. Replaced gaskets & filter, it helped. Still the problem wasn't cured. Someone suggested the dip tube in the gas tank had a rust hole in it. I had to remove the tank to learn the dip tube was fine. I installed a pusher electric fuel pump at the tank & all new lines. Problem solved!
These engines and fuel systems have come to age currently, I have been rebuilding distributors and carburetors since the 1970s and there are only so many times a carb can be overhauled. Distributors can be bushed, shafts replaced and weights exchanged, even the electronic buggers can get new hall effect switches and control coils or Vacuum Advances, carbs are another animal altogether. First the aluminum bodies are Anodized, somewhat for a Corrosion inhibitor but also a Sealant as thin cast aluminum is Porous, will as the anodizing erodes away definitely corrode but also fail to seal gas in and vacuum under the plates. Cannot fix that except a replacement New unit. Throttle Shafts erode in their bushings, bushings get thin, bushings walk in the throttle plate base and again vacuum leaks become uncontrollable. The old Governed systems as this truck had were trash from the get go, many could not ever pull that sick whore anywhere near to off the pot. Sadly most of these are as obsolete as I am so aftermarket replacements become the norm. The GF157 filter I have known of since I started worked medium duty trucks, as well standpipe issues, this one did have a standpipe burn thru. Nothing lasts forever even as we can care for them deliberately. On this very truck with the Idle mixture screws fully seated would still idle at 550rpm, there was that much leakage inside the mechanism, vacuum leaks on the carb were bad enough the secondary would not open much over 1/3 throw, knew that by wear marks, finally got to where did not like to start as could not draw very well thru the idle circuit under choke as the Idle system of this type Holley is in the secondary bores and not under the choke plate.
You might want to add a tack weld to that air cleaner connector coupler on on one end. When I was a kid, dads near new 1964 C-60 Chevrolet tag axle pulp truck had a connector like that holding the air cleaner. Somehow it rattled off and went thru the carb and on into a valve breaking that and the valve head then going thru a piston.
They do make marine grade Edelbrock carburetors, I've installed a few that still purr 5 years later on saltwater bodies. https://www.edelbrock.com/shop/carburetors/marine-series.html?product_list_limit=30
What I was trying to say when I woke up in the middle of the night and tried to read this and type a reply after seeing the picture, is how envious I am of your truck. I have wanted one since I was a kid. They are now scarce and really expensive and as such will fall off the bucket list. I am envious though.
Not really. I see them on the market now & again in the $5000 range. They then need some work. I compare them to a newer pickup, they are still a bargain. Down side is I can't bring myself to take it out in the salt. VT Trans. puts brine on the roads EVERY day from December 1 to April 1
Has gotten seriously difficult to gain components for these aging monsters. Were a good machine of the day yet are fast closing in on that obsolescence day they cannot be repaired. The gent that owns those I noted here, spent three weeks awaiting brake shoes to be relined, then additional time for the seals on the Front axles to be located. He has since stopped driving his runner very often. This is his place off Google Earth View, his other two parts machines are up the hill from here near a old shed.
There are TWO W300s past that Jeep Pickup and another by the camper with the 2N, will NOT sell any of them.
If you really want one, there's one not far from you Dmiller. $3,500 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/409793223493592/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined "The truck is actually a 1942 military truck (dodge power wagon). The cab is a 1946 dodge. Clear MO title as a 1946 dodge. Has a running engine set down in it. Comes with 2 other engine's. (The original core engine from the chassis & a restored engine)"
NO Thanks, have had enough orphans for awhile!!
You asked for it: The Dodge Power Wagon was introduced in 1945, In the military style, they were built until 1971. The military did buy a few, but the Power Wagon was sold to the civilian market. The Power Wagon was a different truck than anything the military ever had. It is most often confused with the early WWII vintage half ton. Virtually no parts are interchangeable. The Power Wagon is a bigger truck, wider, bigger engine, two speed transfer case. Most noticeable difference is Flat grill & less slope in the hood on the Power Wagon.
Power Wagon's closest earlier ancestor was 6 X 6. Still, the only part interchangeable is the transfer case. Also there was a 3/4 ton 4x4 Overlapping production was the M37
I was just quoting the sale ad- its not mine. I doubt the seller has any idea what they have. But thanks for the history lesson.
I feel your pain... I am on the other side of the river. They don't seem to brine much over here but they do sling a load of salt around!
1 flake of snow, they dump a truckload of salt on the road. As a precaution against there being a flake of snow, they dump brine every night there is even a remote chance.
Misseri has gone to Beet Juice, do not know if any better.
Driver at work has one of these, it's a 52 military.
Looks to be nice! Post World War 2, I'd guess the purchase of new vehicles was limited. I see a few pickup versions with open cab, mostly ambulance bodied Power Wagons. I would guess the longer frame of the Power Wagon leant itself better to the ambulance duty than the shorter, lighter M37 chassis.
Best I can learn, brine serves to prevent snow from sticking to the road. In the right snow conditions snow accumulates on the road & it does NOT adhere to the road. A vehicle will slide like the puck in an air hockey game. Me & the Mrs. witnessed it one night in a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Driving less than 10 mph, we were alright, but witnessed several wrecks when people tried to move just a bit faster. In VT, they mix salt brine with other agents to make it more slippery & beet juice to make it stick long enough to be slippery. The intent is they plow away the entire snowfall leaving the pavement wet only. Climate change, or other explanation, most storms are near 32 degrees F.
Crazy story my Dad and Uncle spoke of, Ex Navy boys. On the way home from Pacific Theater were on 'Jeep' Carriers, used to shuttle more replacement planes during the war to the large carriers, they were being used for materials transport Back as unused munitions, trucks, tanks, tractors, cranes even aircraft. Every truck was loaded to the hilt moved to flight deck started and then one guy would put in gear start it down the deck and step out, POOF, off the deck would go and sink immediately, other machines were just pushed off, bombs and shells were dumped. Carriers came into West Coast ports EMPTY. FDRs big concern was all the returning equipment would shut down the auto and aviation industry if allowed to be sold at discounts to the public.
When lived in UT would play up in the Uintah's saw a great deal of old military trucks used as ranch trucks, many of which ran until something failed and left where died. Half Tracks, deuces and old 6x munitions trucks were all over small burgs in UT WY and Western CO. Spent a few days a week selling used military surplus trucks for a less than reputable ass in Provo when not doing a thousand other things to generate More income. We sold a fiberglass hood and cab roof kit as well went thru fixing up old deuces and 5 tons for locals sold a few to the power Company where I actually sold UP&L two Hercules Air cooled pancake gasoline engine powered M88s for pipeline service in the mountains to compressor stations. Some speak of buying crate trucks that reportedly never existed, we actually received a set of rail cars with two dozen of those, palletized deuces and 5/4 trucks, rubber rotting off tires, door seals, plastic knobs and steering wheels crumbling, seats and canvass trashed, a few windshields had already fallen out, came out of some military Quartermaster storage center Korean Conflict stuff. Took WEEKS to get them running and then sold, new owners got BIG surprises as seals failed within days, angered a few of them as paid top dollar for Brand New 'Collectables'. Came to work one Monday after gone a few weeks, store front EMPTY, lot was barren save a few odds and ends. Fed cars parked all around and guys working at getting inside, asked me what I needed said Nothin was looking for parts, appears closed. Guy glared at me said was being chased down for tax evasion and they just missed him, evidently from others I knew that worked there had shipped EVERYTHING out country in less than a week and vanished to Belize. I never received a W2 for my paid taxes, tried to find out what I owed figuring against check stubs, IRS stated "NOT ON FILE" as to income did have to interview but they let it drop. He and his brother were with holding state and fed taxes, even SSI but never paid them in, more unscrupulous crap.
Late to reading this but seems like the same stories I heard from a guy I worked with many years ago but this was from a latter time might have been the 1970's or early 1980's. Seems it was after the Vietnam War he was on a carrier and talked about them firing up Dozers and other equipment and letting them drive off the deck.
All too regular a occurrence.
apparently the oilfield has done that in the arctic too- just pushed stuff off barges, what a waste. i understand why but that doesn't make it right
Just a side note. The Uncle that told me that and others, turned 94 this morning. He also spent yesterday in hospital as they found a previously repaired aneurism on his aorta has ruptured. He is hours to days away from bleeding out internally with no way to repair, at his age.
At least he lived the good life from what I gather.
Survived US NAVAIR WWII Pacific in PB4Ys returned to get edjumacated as a A&E Mechanic where worked with his brother my own Dad for years at Slick Airways until bought up by Flying Tigers. He moved to NY then CA then AK as a Aircraft Mechanic, dad worked CA, KC, STL after Slick and as a grunt mechanic walked across the tarmac at Lambert Airfield applied and went to work at McDonnell Aircraft worked up into project manager, Uncle did similar and walked across the flight lines to KLM Airlines offices ended up a mid level Manager at Anchorage. Hunted with him on the scrub oak out on the Tundra, been in or around his life nearly all of mine. Been divorced three times, current wife is two years older than his oldest daughter, handful of his own kids, adopted kids from his remarries, always worked two to three jobs trying to keep head above water until retired. Worked part time after that on the Bush Airlines out of Anchorage Airport still flying the old Douglas DC6s, some of the old amphibious float planes and snow ski wearers. Moved first to Bend OR late 90s, shifted to Coeur d'Alene about eighteen years back, been there since, his wife Terry's folks and family live(d) in Kalispell MT, her oldest boy died a few years ago, her other son also lives CdA. 94 years, smart as a whip and sharp in thoughts, just his body has said enough. My cousins in UT are his children, has DOZENS of Grands and great grands UT, ID, CA and AK.
Sorry to hear this. I was born with a aorta problem had it repaired when i was 9 but it sounds like it will be what gets me some day.
Sorry to hear about that DM.
Yes. Life is never easy. Remember the times you had and enjoyed together. 94 is a good run.
My father would be 98 now. He was drafted in January 1942, two months after the attack on Pearl Harbor. He, at 20 YOA dumped the family farm, took a big financial loss. He spent 4 years as Army Air Corp Aircraft Mechanic/ flight engineer. Later, he enlisted for Korean Conflict. A google search of Arthur Beauregard brings a picture of a skinny kid changing an engine on a bomber.
This is a Dodge i think before Power Wagon 1941. I put a running engine in it in the 80s and never star ted it. I thought about a diffrent running gears but to many other things to work on. This one also has a double frame
Dad had pictures of UH-1s getting pushed off the deck of USS Tripoli to make room for more to land. The WC54 ambulance survived the 'room-making' can't have the doc without wheels when they make port.
These were early WWII production. They were rated as a half ton. They had a 216 flat head 6, and 1 speed transfer case. Even earlier in war production, I think 1938 or 1939, Dodge built civilian trucks with Ford axles 4 wheel drive. I once knew a fellow had 2. As I recall they were both 2? ton duallies.
Cool piece! You should put a little heat in her... turning a little gasoline to smoke would be interesting.
Sorry to read of his health issue. Sounds like a very well versed guy. Hang in there Dave...
Thanks all for the thoughts. He has made his peace with his demons as I have spoken to Terry(Correct Spelling and Female) where she stated such. She is feeling lost as will be without him first time in close to 30 years, she intends to stay in CdA but sell their home and move to a simpler life in a Condo, his directions as a final wish.
My oldest brother was in the Air Force stationed on a icy rock in the Bering Sea when they closed down the DEW line radar base he was on. About 1971 or so. The last thing they did after destroying all the under ice shelters and totally disabling the radar dome is walk a Cat D7 and Cat grader off the ice into a watery death. He said both were like new still with hardly no hours on them.
My own that died at 43 was on the Dew Line at Cape Newenham, his relief ended up performing SAME Task. Had a Dozer for Fire Control(Push on fire building segment away from others) and a grader for runway.
Machines sent to a watery grave full of fluids no less. And today there’s an almost criminal investigation if you spill a quart of oil especially near a waterway. Funny how things have changed.
Just off phone with JY, has had one of those back of the neck nagging feelings of the haul truck where feels not good to use, spoke to anther buddy and got a different truck. HAD to be tomorrow as has to go to TX for work Monday and did not have Sunday to get it done, only the truck/trailer is smaller and can only manage ONE of the return trucks. SO, I went to the barn pinned up the Goose and have that ready if he wishes after gets here to haul one of them back with him for him. He has had more than share of **** getting this done, have to cut some slack somewhere.
Gee, What does this cab & chassis weigh? How tall is it? I'd take a first in a lifetime long distance trip. I can move 19000 legally if it isn't taller than 13.5' on the deck over. Weather is cold, if Mrs. B makes enough sandwiches, I'll make it. Might fill a bucket or two round trip.
All is good All is under control!!
You need to come to my place, I'm a complete rolling dumpster fire right now. I could use a little control...
JY sent me this last night and let me know just at 8am he and his copilot (son) are on the way
Yellow rust bucket gonna wait Also have a JD planter he will eventually receive Who knows what menagerie of stuff he will end up needed hauled back in next few months!!
I resemble that most days!!
Has arrived JY has the LP GMC and headed for home Was a comedy of errors getting the monster off the trailer!!! And yes the door closes
That is a LOT of truck!
But I'm betting the hood doesn't open with the door closed! Glad you got the project in the shop. Pull that hood and get to work! No rest for the weary! Nose to the grindstone.... No moss on a rolling stone.... Have fun
Well you did pretty good DM-you got a reply out of C.O. .
I figured you're spending all your christmas and new years catchin up on torn up trucks! Those drivers all have christmas off- I bet you got a list a mile long of sunvisors that wont stay steady and seat adjustments that don't work. And I have no idea who buster keaton is and didn't want to display my ignorance.
Even I know who Buster Keaton was!!! No, hood will not open with door down, thus Next Step, Remove Le Hood!! Will sit inside the shop alongside the machine. Hood has to come off, then can work Door down to hearts content!! Fun part of unload was Front Drives did NOT want to roll, debris in/around brake shoes, shoes frozen onto spider(Rust), just a bundle of fun with a old 2wd farm tractor. JY has a Telehandler he loaded it with!! All good, he and Copilot got fed and got to play away from home. HOPEFULLY gets home between 8:30 and 9.
Buster Keaton, Saddest Face in Silent Films.
Photos of almost FUBAR!!
Wife was taking photos, Wounded. Was cleaning oven, found the sharpest edge on it and required four stitches for her Right Index Finger on Thursday!!! And yes, the old tractor dug some craters!!
I must have KW blood in my veins, I would totally make that into something. Nice score DM.
What are the specs on that thing? Looks like a good one, I approve of the rear suspension.
I’m back home safe and sound. Long day!
Yeah we can see the skid marks on the garage floor, probably skid marks elsewhere from the FUBAR unloading too.
550hp C15ACERT, 18 spd eaton fuller, Eaton 46,000 rears on 8 bag, double frame 14,000 steer, 24.5 rubber. Soon to be a 6NZ frankenmotor.
A few times was not responding well, more like a controlled near to demo derby!
Or to Quote CO, a Rolling Dumpster Fire!!!
What matters is the task at hand got accomplished and no one got hurt. Look forward to watching the transformation. Also nice to see forum members working together in the real world. The old Allis looks stout and in good repair.
I thought it went pretty good. Dragging brakes, while a pita, were probably why there isn’t also a back door in the shop! Ride home went great. I bet that little GMC weighs half of what that KW did.
About 9500 lbs IIRC!!
Did you build that 550 JY? If you wouldn't mind delivering that to New Hampshire... I am curious though, is that bed a one JY custom or available somewhere commercially?
The 550 is a friends truck. He ordered it and had the bed put on and the other little things done. It’s a store bought bed made by CM. I’ll scrounge up a link. I had a similar bed on my 4500 dodge. It may come live at my place next year when he upgrades
CM makes nice stuff. I was pleased with mine. https://cmtruckbeds.com/truck-beds/tm-deluxe/
Thanks!
You’re welcome.
Now the fun realy begins. I think i bought the newest nicest lowest milage trucks i ever have owned but to get it in good usable shape its takeing 100s of hours. It didnt have a air horn i worked on that last night so far i have 2 hours in and it needs a brace and the pull cable. For the most part i enjoy working on it. Good luck on your prodject.
That looks like a really capable ride. I may have to try and clone that!
It does a good job. With the KW on I felt a little short on power but never felt overloaded in regard to handling or braking. He ordered that 550, it’s a loaded lariat which is unusual for the bigger trucks.
Don't tell the people here that That should have been on a minimum 600hp tandem and 60 ton lowboy. Light on power because it's a Ford! I miss my 2015 Ram 5500 Laramie such a nice truck that can really haul, doesn't hurt that the dealer practically gave it to me.
That trucks looks mint! From the outside it already looks like it's ready to work.
19000lbs, full dress and this one is nowhere hear that, about half naked!! probably close to 17000 as it sits. Tandem Duals goose and F550 more than enough for that.
Got the 550 cleaned up before it goes back to Dave. Even detailed the interior!
70% of dealers practically give highly sought after vehicles to people like you. I guess that's why they are so expensive to people like me.
I hauled that much in scrap before with my 3/4 GMC and it was ok but i hauled a GMC Brigadier and it was enough i couldnt break the speed limit going down hill.
Thought I would post some information on my truck that I have used for recreational purposes for the last 12 years since it looks like you are building a truck to do the same. My current truck is a 1998 KW W900L Aero Cab, 3406E 600HP, 18 Speed, 364,000 Original Miles that I purchased from the original owner. I built the flatbed on the back the Kenworth for my 1st truck that I did this with which was a 1981 Peterbilt 359 Short Hood with a KTA 600 and a Double Overdrive 13 speed that I used for recreational purposes for 14 years. I would suggest that you get a air ride hitch for what ever type of RV trailer bumper pull or 5th wheel that you decide to pull because even though these trucks have air ride suspension they will break your trailer. Don't ask me how I know. Keep us posted on the progress of your project.
Appreciate the heads up on hitch. Likely be a Fifth Wheel type that will be pulled with it. Very nice looker you have.
I just got to know it and it is leaving, (deep sigh) I am fairly old and ugly... however I would be stunning and youthful wheeling' that 550!! LOL!!
Moved back into shop all it will go, hood would full open thru doorway then. So removed hood, NO more needing to have door open for working.
Hood off, cleared Rat Turds from cylinders and brush nests ALL Over. Old battery box OFF, drained oil.
Then the FUGLY!! Drained the stuff what was inside the Fuel tanks, HAD to HAVE DOOR OPEN!! STANKY!! Pulled piston/rod assemblies, #s 1&6 were close to dangerous point, journals still look OK. Did take a Direct Hit, sludgy oil in Pump Delivery Side tube, Direct to hat and Forehead, at least NOT Detroit Oil.
Best for Last. Noticed strange Red Wire out of place. What else that 'When In Doubt Run a New Wire.'
Did I miss it? What is this engine? It isn't yellow, Cummins perhaps? What does one do about the crank? Will it be reground before new bearings? Or just new bearings?
Specs are a couple pages back. The engine is a c15 acert. I think Dmiller plans to get rid of the twin turbo Acert stuff.
Yes he does, and there is Yellow pant under all the crud covering the block. Journals are good, I will wipe and clean and visually inspect full circumference but what have seen so far is still good.
Eventuality is to Decompress to a 6NZ level, for pistons, replace the head, new bearings and gaskets, SINGLE turbo kit then have the Processor reflashed to eliminate the ACERT equipment. ALL new hoses, lines, tubes if can be bought, will be up late on SIS for the order list. Will be pulling down the Front Rear and Thrust Mains next to see what look like.as are the severe wear points, also be pulling sleeves and inspecting counterbores as well block deck. Chassis will get fuel tanks repositioned to OE Points then either buy or fab the Rear Toolbox and Battery Box mounts, reconstruct the stack support tables on those and hang all those. Already know the Brake treadle is frozen in place, floor matts are shot where will get pulled, Driver seat base is corrupted beyond repair passenger seat base is a Storage(****) box and seats themselves well worn so time to Update seating as well new seat belting. Misc trouble spots for Air Lines, hose hangers rusted away piecemealed with Nylon ties, exhaust is a full reconfigure where uncertain if will Twin stack or Single Road Dump, Frame while Open will get rough sanded and a heavy coat of rust inhibitor Black loaded, once at the close phase when get air ride all rebuilt will consider if budgeted for Full Cab/Sleeper repaint but running gear is being painted, Here. Also due for and will be rebuilding all foundation brakes if not repairing or replacing many air brake valves. But that ALL depends on Engine Build. Still has a PTO hanging, no pump or other devices so may consider removal when drain box for refill as also Leaks.
I didn’t want to turn loose of it either. Oh well. It’s better to have love and lost than to not have loved at all!
I did what you are doing to my 05 C15. set mine to 550hp. Runs super nice, you will not be disappointed. What is the engine prefix? the only trouble I had was my computer would not take the new program. mine was a BXE engine. I was told the BXE computers can be temperamental. I switched to a 6NZ computer. Right or wrong thats how it went for me. I think they only made the BXE for a year or two. Someone will be along to correct me shortly. LOL Anyways Looks like a good project. should keep you busy for awhile.
Rip that PTO off, makes easier to get under there and to pull or put transmission on, I'm sure you already know that. drivetrainamerica.com will have replacement cover unless TS knows of better place, I'm all ears if he does. Pulled mine off and put a cover on, best idea yet in that regards.
Local salvage company north of here will have one of the covers, build dump trucks there, may even buy the PTO. If requires a processor will go that way, as is a BXS ACERT, snatched the second turbo mount and mini intercooler off yesterday, can actually see the water pump now. Also ordered a APTIV(Delphi) connector kit and extra connectors, quite a few have broken latches, a number been cut out.
Ya BXS, that’s the one. Lol. Here is a little preview DM. After and before on a C13.
What a Snarled mess they built on these!!
Mains not bad. Thrust still in place and no indications on journal, not as much dirt passage wear as expected. Rear main and #6 rod journals
Just curious, where did you get your kit from? Am considering the variable geometry Switchblade kit.
Its a PDI kit. Than I have a friend that does computer stuff so he did that part. Some of it I make up like the turbo oil return and the inlet piping and exhaust. Cost around $7000 by the time I was done.
Give this guy a look, I think he is right in the ballpark. http://oldtunerguy.com/Cat-C15-Single-Turbo-Conversion-Kit.html
Back to fun and games, called a buddy of mine works as Independent, supposed to run his sleeve puller by Mon to Tues night, tried a Oak block and four pound, No movement, tried a home spun puller and no luck so before Damage anything important getting a sleeve puller designed to do this. While on hold removed Right Fuel tank, moved front mount back to Original position, awaiting MoSHP for ID/OD VIN verification to reset Left side, will be calling KW Monday as to rear support mounts for Battery and Tool boxes. Also removed a great deal of unused materials that were associated to the pusher axle.
Are you going to shorten that truck or use the extra space for a drom flat for the scooter etc?
Type I use/own. Works like a charm.
My bud from St.Charles has one as such Said may sell it cheap if I like it!! As stated has not used since bought!! MD, not sure where wb is going if going Once tanks are back in original locations will think on it
Have swept up since photo Two lines hanging down are fuel rerouted by tank repositioners Battery cables are another testament to their skills!! Old stack is off duals support table is off on this side as going back to underslung T.
At least you can cash in the copper to offset the cost of new cables
Fairly certain cables will reach OE style box with length to spare after cut away trash ends. They had these sewn thru the air lines and tied across top of left air tank, right air tank was installed reversed direction(obvious) as the ports on top were set such that the tank drains were 15-20 degrees off bottom. Been around wrench benders as this LONG ago. JY admits he was pushing them to get truck on road during that time, he was busy at other aspects trying to stay afloat. Will most likely take the two compartment tank from this side to the dealer north of here, trade for a straight fuel tank as doing away with the wet kit pieces.
There is always alot of wrongs to wright with a new to you truck.The one i used and like the best was a low mileage 25 year old that had a small engine fire and was parked. It had no windsheild,engine,trans, interor and was missing alot of other stuff a blank canvas.
Always some surprises in new to you equipment, some not so extreme others pretty ugly, not much insurmountable. Boys that extended the OEM cables appeared to have used a sledge and a Anvil for swage tools on the crimp connectors. That oddball red wire was ran from a connector at the Hood L feeder back to the firewall to the Air Cleaner lamps and into the L sleeper compartment floor for Trailer feed. Both door inner access lamps were destroyed where were snagging on shirt so pulled them, the Left one had a Wood screw run thru the Hot side wire!!! May have been the intermittent short, KNOW will be others yet to find!!
Today's exploits Off comes Left fuel tank and mounts, air tank repositioned Aft, pile of Excess Tubing removed. Need to get some spacers and rear tool box and Battery box mounts. Also need a few more 5/8 x 2 1/2" and 3" bolts.
Just Cragslisted the old Battery Box, More Corn Queen than not.
Ok, so wife and I get back from Doc office She has a small mass they want to biopsy Typically benign but not chancing it. She is a little worried but not. So get to house and Bud had been by Left a note, send $300 and keep it as will never need it!! Almost ten minutes later. Why did I stay so cheap and beat old sleeves until I was in submission!! ALMOST ten minutes Oh and BTW, cash is in the mail!!!!
h have to give you credit`when you go you go
With my S & O one turn with 1/2 long ratchet to brake them loose then spin them up with a 3/8 air ratchet. For 12.7-14L Series 60, DD13, 15, 16.---The 14L Series 60 the rod won't pass through the liner. Only $1,250. pictured below
Had not considered rod size being too large to require a puller like these Almost like building the old two strokes loading a liner pack then installing the entire assembly
I'm praying for you & Mrs. We have had a scare or two. It always comes down to "no, nothing to worry about. Why were you worried?"
Thanks Willie Radiologist feels it is nothing but enough to better examine, I do hope too.
Running all morning so little time spent this afternoon where did throw a DA with 320 across the deck with sleeves out. Hand sanded upper bores, No Obvious hairlines even sprayed with penetrant or brake clean. I believe the deck will survive, this is my 40 year old straight edge. Two sleeves did show signs of sidewall cavitation started, all lower seal rings hard as glass.
My bionic right eye sees a shallow spot--------------------------------------------
Bolt or water port Hole!!
Time to start order on Engine Parts.
just joking
Knew that
KT IPD order is in. Have a smaller additional order at Fabick Cat and email to a head supplier for quote. Small parts to pick up at KW Fenton. ALL next week work
Also have a Steel Order in at Haslag Steel Washington MO, should be ready by Wednesday. First run of expenses be close to $6k
When my father was rebuilding engines he said cavitation would only occur on one side of the liner and if they were being reused they were simply rotated 180 degrees. This all providing the protrusion was within spec.
On the old Cummins and some of the AG engines the cavitation damage would align to the narrow zone between cylinders, lower coolant flows, higher overall localized surface temps allowed for small nucleate boiling bubbles to form. When the cylinder fired they would burst owing to the 'Cavitation' aspect as the burst eroded the steel wall. Once started heat increased and would continue at the thin spots with the bubbles able to form so much easier. Taught that in a Cummins Class in 1977. Coolant filters, 'Pencils' and additives used zinc in the early days to somewhat coat the inside of the block, Nalcool, Dowtherm and a few other current additives change the pH so that a 'Slimy Coating' primarily of Black Iron Oxides adheres to the inner surfaces and precludes the bubbles forming directly to these surfaces.
I am just checking in and have not read the entire thread, so ignore if you have your trailer. My one cross country trip was bed bugging with a cabover KW and a 48' double drop deck moving van. I often thought one of those old double drops would make a decent liveaboard. I really don't like the massive climbs to get into the current RVs. The curbside has several doors, and the off side could be a massive slideout. Quads and motorcycles fit between the rear wheel wells, and a rail and ramp could put a bigger rig over them. (Have seen cars over those wells before). http://www.usedmovingvans.com/used-moving-van-details/9504/1995-Kentucky-Double-Drop-50'-#gallery-3 That's nicer than the one I was towing.
some of the older deere engines would have 4 corner cavitation where the water jacket was thinnest. if it was a patch job, we would just turn the liners 1/8 of a turn and reinstall if the damage was light and the customer approved it. the early 619 engines were the worst likely because they were worked harder and the cooling systems weren't as good in the 30 series tractors as compared to the 40 series
The Freightliner radiator tank design in early years was probably one of the worst for foaming causing worse cavitation bubbles. Liner cavitation {erosion} was bad in a freightliner no matter the engine.
Biggest issue is access lengths. Most RV park locations cannot handle greater than 40' trailers. Was cautioned by friend that pulls a 36'.
yes that is a big issue. For my wife and I, we are going way short. I tow 28 now and am building a custom 5th wheel in a few years that will be no longer than 28. The national parks are usually cut off at 27. I can fib a foot with my short bed auto slider setup. But I see a guy with a tractor and dream vicariously
way over priced on that one.i see past floor problems in there also
yep if I were converting I'd want to spend no more than 10K, since it is going to get gone though. I do like the idea of real brakes and tires, as opposed to what comes on RV's.
Been looking in damaged goods ads. Burnt out bearings, bad axles, slight sheet metal goods damage. None that hit fuel station canopies or low bridged otherwise, do not need massive leakers. In the STL area are a number of people advertising buying Damaged Goods RVs, bargain basement prices. May be able to come up with one the owners cannot handle and just want out also.
we used to have various fifth-wheel rv trailers over the years but our last upgrade was to a class C motorhome. that's what my wife wanted so that's what we got
I see that day coming too, 56 For now I'll keep towng.
Funny old guy(79) in town bought a NEW Class C for he and wife, brought it home first day took out awning over their carport, thousands in damage house and RV. Got fixed, ran it six months was totaled in a small gas station where spam canned the roof, never found out which one was driving. He can not ever own one again per his insurer.
NOT a truck driver by trade, LOL. I was doing a little job Thursday that had me raising the bed in the vicinity of low power and phone lines. I was out on the tank looking, repeatedly.
I did an assignment years ago involving a Monico diesel pusher monster that was purchased brand new. The owner had it for two years and it had more time in the shop than on the road. He was using the vehicle for a traveling office. Big items were failing all the time. Suspension kept falling, power steering hard lines and hoses would get a hole worn in them or blow putting fluid all over the road and tires plus the lose of steering control. Engine coolant leaks and a cooked head. Slide outs getting stuck in the tracks and the windshield fell out twice in the middle of a freeway going down hill and braking hard. I spoke to multiple dealer mechanics at that time who all said basically the same thing. The see it all the time. Those units were all designed to drive somewhere in the country and then be parked for the rest of their life.
I like mobility. I've long towed a travel trailer. Motor home isn't an option unless I can piggyback a Jeep. I am not packing up to go get a quart of milk. I'm trying to convince Mrs a Jeep on the Top Kick, towing the trailer would fill my life. She just doesn't see it. She wants to head to Yellowstone, or Yosemite towing a 6000 LB trailer behind her Grand Cherokee. I'm not doing that!
Here's my combo, the day I was bringing the trailer home from Idaho a few winters back. I had picked up the truck first from a logging outfit. It was a crummy and big fuel tank hauler in SW Washington, 6 speed manual 3500 short bed. My wife is reasonably happy driving the bare truck.
Yes please, Set up the awning, level the trailer. Day trips in the pickup. Nothing wrong with a big rig if you tow a skiff, Packing up for every tour is not appealing to me.
When complete will be the W900 a fifth wheel toy hauler and my Road Glide Park, day trip on bike, bad weather day trip W.
That's the thing with a toy hauler. Toy is very loosely defined I know a guy with a 40' diesel pusher and he has a 2nd gen long bed Dodge Cummins truck for a Toad.
with one of our previous units, i used to be able to tow my boat behind the fifth wheel but the next upgrade was too long to be combined with the boat so we had to take another vehicle towing the boat. on trips of a couple hundred miles or less it wasn't bad but it got to be a pain in the ass for any trip longer than that. we tow a 12' single axle cargo trailer behind the motorhome for the kayaks and all the extra crap, so the boat stays home. we have towed the boat behind the motorhome but launching the boat is a PITA and not doable at a lot of marginal boat launches so it stays home most of the time. if i could afford it i would have a motorhome custom made so i could accommodate most of the stuff i would like to take with me lol
Back in the 80's I worked on a lot of self propelled rolling **** houses, which caused me to say no to diesel pushers when asked to work on those. Problem child-each and everyone. Access to damn near anything is frustrating. Don't leave any evidence of working inside or the owners will go haywire, crazy, they are living on top of a diesel engine. Built out of plywood and aluminum sheet 8" off the ground. When one catches fire it goes up like a bomb. The thought of driving down the highway carrying your {waste,turds} with you for some reason just doesn't seem quite right.
Myself as well, mostly old junk GMBB power with busted manifolds from heat buildup or cooked Turbo 400s. Most were last minute decide to use so brake failures, exhaust rotted away, fuel leaks were top defaults. Saw the onslaught of 3208 pushers in the mid 80s then the adoption of foreign bus designs most MB Powered and no tooling to work on them or supply chains for parts. Eagle American Buses got popular(Driptroit's) then the addition of Prevost and all manner of exotic power trains, we waived off of them.
If I were to go that way, it would be a Cummins/Allison Super C. At least the power end is like it is on a commercial truck. They tow whatever you can hook to them, completely legit. It's a truck chassis with a proper rating. I still don't see it happening though. I am OK with towing and for now my wife is OK rowing gears on the Ram for side trips. I don't ask her to drive the combo. She volunteers but I can read the signs
Here's a septic tank on wheels, 60 grand and 15 years old with 34k, Woww someone really got some use out of it https://lewiston.craigslist.org/hvo/d/lewiston-2005-coachmen-sportscoach/7244918790.html
I have thought about a couple deals One was to take the bed off my f600 and mount a camper on the frame and tow one of my jeeps. Second deal was to make a camper out of a lowbelly van trailer or furniture trailer leave room to haul a jeep tow it with my c70.
They make ready built toy hauler campers. They tend to be heavy. A basic pickup struggles at interstate highway speed towing one. Some big dualies with diesel engines handle them fine.
my wife and i looked at a new super c on the F/L chassis ( M series ?) but i feel they are asking for too much power from a cummins 6.7 in a unit that large. i feel the engine should be a larger series for durability. the salesman could only brag about the hp. could not tell me what the torque or torque rise was. we definitely did not like the $260K CAD price tag. so, class c on a Ford E450 super duty chassis V10 gas job was what we ended up with
Thus the KW.
Today another milestone. Mo SHP trooper came by validated the VIN but will be getting a new VIN Tag for the 17 digit number. The old 'Public VIN' was originally typed on the GVWR tape tag on the Left door edge, it is all but washed out so will receive a new MO State Aluminum tag with the OE VIN Numbers on it, and THEY Install it. All titling fees taxes and such paid thru this, $330.
Head supplier noted is Shipped, will be a day before in system. Coming Fedex frt so will have to go to St Clair docks to pick it up, non issue. No word on IPD load. Also received call from steel supplier, my pieces are ready.
a few years ago i floated the idea of restoring and modifying my '79 W/STAR for rv use but my wife shot down that idea in about 3 seconds . i was even willing to convert it to an allison but she had already made up her mind . she doesn't like most things that are old-some days that includes me
Well the Doc visit this morning was pretty uneventful. Barium radiography of upper GI. I am a FAT Old Man and Know it!! Got re-emphasized as to having a Hiatal Hernia, "TYPICAL for aging adult males who are overweight", then on to swallowing inspection, have a 'pocket' at the Pharyngeal flap that closes for swallowing and stopping entry into voice box, likely the culprit as to having a feeling of Grease in my throat if eat something Fatty, AGAIN in regards to weight suggested laying off fatty meats, processed foods, anything such as Milk or Ice Creams, even Puddings or High Calorie 'Sticky' foods as Pies or heavy icing cakes. Beer WAS Mentioned, I did NOT hear it!! Evidently shocked them in ability to swallow pills without liquids, also shocked them no adverse digestive tract reaction to the barium soup(Puking), and again shocked when a One Hour expected program of radiography took less than fifteen minutes. AND DAMMIT, Only 25 minutes around TWO AWESOMELY Cute Technicians. Katheryn and Kelly!!!!! VERY Sweet young Ladies, then the Department Director popped in GORGEOUS and probably 6' tall, lanky mid thirties VERY Striking Woman. I was in heaven a Short Time. And YES I am a FLIRT to young Women, LOVE to Admire!! And Drool, and Feel like I would EVEN stand a Chance with Any of them!!
Miller, you 'member George Burns song "I wish I was 18 again"? Yeah, the part where he sings" I will never again turn the young ladies heads". Yeah, that's us. And a damn big bunch of "us" on here !!!
I hear ya!! And fully aware, sadly. These two boxes(one is oil pump) is $2481 Cat parts and $189 KW parts Steel to the right is $120
Damn picture did not take!! Again oil pump lower box, a few odd KW Parts in both, the three smaller boxes in larger box are rocker arm shafts, $330 and change each.
As I remember, old Georgie boy ALWAYS had a Bevy of Beauties about him on sets. He was more or less harmless but a flirt too none the less!!
Will have to Note, had I gotten this done while working Nuke would NOT have been allowed back into plant for a few days to weeks, as the radioactive level of the Barium is enough to set off Detectors In Plant and MORE Dosage than I was allowed in a Year by Nuclear Regulatory for work In Plant.
Burns in one interview and I am NOT sure whose, stated he treated all the girls flirtatiously, would tell them could part his hair with his tongue to draw interest. Once challenged would remove toupee and lick the part line!!!!
My rolling “shitt house” when done will consist of a 5 ton or deuce and half capable of almost any terrain, made from 20’ shipping container which is of 14 gauge steel, 2kw worth of solar panels, enough batteries to last 4 days without sunlight with propane generator for back up, 100 gallons of water, 50 gallons of propane, 400 gallons of diesel and at least 10 gallons of bourbon on tap. In my current rig 5 gallons is max capacity of any ****. When things get topsy-turvy **** tends to fly, literally!
Get a M820 Spud, already a insulated Rolling Shythouse!! with Slide outs, just add better windows. Longer wb, still a 5T Cummins power or go later M924 or 928 for Auto Trans Single Wheels.
Got the Exploder back Tuesday, wife drove it to work and complained of a Growl, took by body shop Wed afternoon and left it as LF Wheel Bearing either brinelled or cracked, running rolling roar at 55 and not a tire. Got back last night after bearing/hub swap, much quieter but then this morning taking wife in for Biopsy of a concern another roar has begun. Am thinking the Other side front is also damaged but will allow to get noisier. So far no comments on biopsy. Car damage, so far $3600
Lets worry about the car, you won't do any good worrying about biopsy until results come back. Cars get fixed, or junked, oh well! No value in worry, it's people who have value. God bless you & the Mrs.
Remember the older you get- you get closer to the three P's------------Postum, Porridge and Poop.
New cable pull drains in place, added a future connection for a Shop Style QD so to not have to rely upon Glad Hands and aired the system(LESS Suspension, it is in 'Dumped' position) been holding 105lbs for over an hour. Still need to replaced the treadle for the E6 foot valve rusted SOLID with base plate corroded beyond reuse. IPD Order should go in Monday and be delivered in a week from then. Fedex FRT called from St Clair MO on Wednesday, trying to figure out what a 500# "CAT" was, needed to figure out What to figure out How to deliver from RS Ind Engine Service. Called her back as to being a Cat Cylinder Head, and asked if would be on a standard Tractor Trailer for Delivery. She stated would have to align anything different, where they cannot get one into the house for delivery, that I could come to the dock to receive where she stated the shipper would not allow that, I needed to call them for release at dock. Called RS and left Message for "Mike", got call back by Fedex where Courtney was laughing said I really needed to speak with "Mike" so called RS back. Mike is definitely Not a "Mike", his Pakistani or India accent is far too strong for that, argued with me that 'I' could not go to their dock to receive as They paid for to address delivery, that Covid was another reason as "EVERYTING" is performed Electronically. Explained to "Mike" that I have been around the trucking industry for fifty years and he was blowing smoke, that accessing Fedex dock is NO DIFFERENT than offloading from THEIR Truck. Would not listen to reason so gave up, called Courtney back, she was STILL Laughing as we discussed how less than intelligent "Mike" was as to reasoning. She will align the Straight truck as Head arrives, will be a "Special Appointment" where Mike will receive a "Special Upcharge" for required delivery type.
Up yours, Mike ;D
A Cat head weighs 500#??
No--no one is going up mine, not now or later even
Wrong "Mike" ts!!
Yep, C15 overhead cam all one piece one LARGE block of iron.
And that even seems light when you think about the 3600 lb total weight.
Oh MY! Can that Allis lift that?
A frame for Inside, Allis tractor can do a Ton.
Today doing some odds and ends as await engine pieces. Side Box mounts trimmed and hanging, may need to spacer from frame and need to open if not slot upper three holes(My Bad)! Used rust converter on Exhaust Mounts, gonna stay with that pattern. And pic of the Public VIN Location that washed out. Brackets Will get a Additional Angle Iron topper under the exhaust seat. Can Just make out last three to four numbers
Cab air ride is unresponsive as is Suspension, tried both to see if would at least supply air, won't. Local Carquest supplies a few trucking companies here, keep 16.5x7 Stop Boxes in house on hand, $53 Each, Shoes, Pins, Springs kit said similar for fronts just need shoe numbers. Drums not an issue as well so no need to travel to STL to pick up parts, just need casting or OEM Numbers. Knew Rears would be less than $120 per wheel Outboard Pilot Centers.
Alliance Freightliner drum # N42A-1657VB standard outboard drum. Shoes are either Q + 4707's or Eaton 4709's-The Q+ will have a plus sign punched through the shoe web with no hump. Drums My price $70.38. First photo 4707 Q+ Second photo Eaton 4709 and there is early and late shoe webs also, has to do with hardware kit.
I buy Freightliner Alliance 23,000 lb shoe kits with hardware for $33.00 a box. Steer axle shoes are either #1443's or #4702 Q's.
yep
Have a Frtlnr. Western Star dealer at Wright City, may look into those there. May not get quite the discount as not a Large Company buyer.
I'm embarrassed to admit my biggest engine is Cat 3208. I think 500 LBS is half what my whole engine weighs. We got the Corey brothers (extra sons) one can lift a Chevy big block, two can carry it around. There used to be three brothers. The littlest, 6' 5" 290 LBS spent most time at my home. The biggest 6'7", I'll guess 290# thought he was bigger than two logs from a massive white pine tree. He had a band sawmill with no support tractor. He was unloading a trailer downhill. Saddest, is that his sons 4 and 6 years old watched him die. A chevy big block is less than 500 LBS.
That's hard to even imagine, Willie B It was an accident?
A complete 454 680 lbs a complete 350 510 lbs. Block bare weight Big Block is 200.
Just use the 1657VB number on the drums-it crosses over to all other numbers. Wheel Seal # 47697 Axle gasket # 03-01568. Drum cross reference Webb #56864 Gunite #3922 PacCar TRP # DB1657BSTW Conmet # 3600
Yeah, a man convinced strength would let him overpower everything. He had two white pine logs on a deck over trailer. Biggest was about 42" at butt. Why he stood below them while unloading, we will never know. I don't know what the rolling weight of two large pine logs is. I do know it was too much.
Ton or better EACH. Thanks TS, noted the numbers down.
This came yesterday Pistons still not available IPD nor head intermediate plate May have pistons in stock tomorrow Head plate not until after 21st Called cat as to plate currently out of stock end of month maybe
Where is all the blue goo?
LOL!!!
Trying also to free up floor space, first one back up
Other side was a breeze, battery box Looking KW again
Used the cut drops for bracing
Today was fun, Aired truck thru Air drier, found Cab is supplied off Aux Circuit on drier base, raised and set fine, Found sleeper boot torn, Not unexpected.. Got after Treadle valve issue, pedal assembly a blob of crusty aluminum and rusted steel, cut pedal away then fought the swap as always have, even with long arms is a BUGGER. Tested service brakes, all service side air seems to be fine, will still get new maxis and service diaphragms with new lines to chambers, LATER. At least E6 is still in good order. Need to pull up Throttle assembly clear corrosion, clean Flatten and paint base. Also need to pull column free up tilt and telescope, cable to foot release is Broken and figure out Why. Floor mat is FUBAR anyway where will be replaced along with underpad. No Pistons until later in month along with Spacer plate, Cat OR IPD.
Just get the bob villa out with a #20 torx and have at the 300 screws holding that sleeper boot in place.
That's a nice Tin Indian in your avatar.
Brother's previous Project Car. 66 Poncho 2+2. 421 six pack vac secondaries still intact, 4 spd and Factory AC!
SWEET! i think you need to give us some pictures of the car and engine too . after i read that i forgot about the kenworth
Eight Lug Pontiac Special Rims, When Sold it the buyer got pissy over clear coat. Was incorrect as had Turbo400 Trans in it.
Older Brothers 2+2 Also 66, Conver-trouble Similar 421 Six Pack mechanical secondary's. Jeepster behind was USFS retired sales unit.
Both were body off restorations.
Little wife made dinner tonight Dirtied a mound of dishes for a favorite Ham and beans!! Corn bread with Jalapeños and Can Corn
Hearty, tasty lookin’ meal!
Quigley wonders if there might be leftovers:
Have just enough if he can be here before lunch tomorrow!!! Does have Onion in it so not so good for pups. Back to work on the Blue Beast this morning, see what else can disassemble awaiting parts or find to fix.
She actually doesn't even ask for food. She prefers to be the only dog. The bowl is Bailey's (my son's yellow lab, a frequent visitor) I believe she deliberately takes Bailey's bowl outside so we won't feed Bailey.
After it today, figured out how to get my hand into the clutch return spring area, needs one as this broken one is corroded where I will not re-end & reinstall. Pulled throttle, have all the spacers clean but gonna need bolts and floor gasket. Pulled Right Seat(Jump Style on a box) and cut away floor matting, underpad still wet after all the time in shop, Box base is crap. Need to pull shift boot and driver seat next, base section also trashed, brake pedal is off until get carpet and underpadding installed, two of three throttle spacers will be installed prior but throttle will set off, need new pivot pin(Plastic). Did find $1.12 in change!!
Going to have hairline welded up on Hydraulic Tank end of R Fuel Tank refit the Cover Plugs and keep. Any recommends on TIG filler rod or will 4043 Mild Aluminum be fine? I have no intention of Restoring Hydraulics but tank will remain on machine with the PTO drive(Have Seal and Gasket Kit for that). And yes I am aware the SS Step threshold is corrosion lifted, not a interference so may just remain that way.
Looks like you've got some fun builds going on!
Whole Wagon!!
Thinking will wash down floor pan with a mild soap solution try to reduce any residual salts still present.
Better check clutch pedal cross shaft bearings in column frame. Easy to get to behind center dash but a slight pain in the ass to change.
No lateral play and no longitudinal play, were a Bit 'Dry' when got behind dash a little spray lube and smoother, linkage below cab seems a bit excessive!!!
You shouldn't have mentioned that $1.12, now Junkyard is gonna be sending you a demand letter to get his money back!
I sent a couple Italians I know to collect it for me
Wife already commandeered
How about posting a recipe for that corn bread with Jalapeños? There is a Rib joint near hear that has that but think they are closed down for the virus. Would like to make some for myself!
Not sure but I think I saw this guy heading your way!
Moose and Rocco from Caddyshack is what I had envisioned lol
Todays foray into the land of age!! Seats out. Actually got all the bolts out and thread inserts stayed! Floor mat out and vacuumed for now Wired back the column latches and soaked it the other day got to un-tilt but still no telescope yet Seatbelts trash and yes I use them
As to the cornbread Wife buys Jiffy mix used two used either 6 or 8 oz can of chopped jalapeños and a full 14-16oz can of cream corn Other than that mix per the box instructions
I have several tubes of 4043 years old. I just don't use it. 4943 is a Hobart product. It needs no dilution for strength, (many aluminum fillers get their alloy from dissolving parent metal) 4943 has more strength than 4043. It melts several degrees lower than almost all aluminum workpieces. It wets easily for certain fusion. If you need to anodize, use 5356. If you can learn the material the tank is made of, 5356 might be the best choice anyway.
Got front engine mounts in this morning. Started on PTO reseal were a couple pieces not in the kit so onto Chelsea site made my next order at local parts house. Good thing did not try any engine starts Gearbox may have had two gallon lube still in it from sitting dripping. As sit awaiting Everything skinned off the majority of the decals left one VIN until after new tag gets placed. Did figure out previous owner Jewell Transports White River Vt DOT 288643
Received a call from IPD supplier, IF and BIG IF IPD has six pistons will order my IFOH kit and get the package moving for Monday ship. Still not Head Spacer Plates so doing a CAT search as NONE here local.
Looks like progress. Bummer the engine parts are becoming hard to get for you, certainly drags out your project.
"Jewell Transports White River Vt" Just down the road from me.........well, 50 miles. White River is where we connect to the nearest interstate. If the destination is North, South, or East, we pass through White River.
Not twenty minutes after I had that posted local Cat dealer parts man KNOWING I was looking for Head spacer called ME. Stated were back in stock asked of still needed. Set that to the Will Call side there and have LIKELY another $500 bill at CIT KW in Fenton on Monday. So ANOTHER $Grand Day!!
I spent around $200.00 fixing my truck this week and thought that was high but i guess i got off easy.
Build a B75 and listen to the register-Ka Ching $. No one gets away cheap after a while your *** will get so sore you will forget what caused it.
Head $3300 delivered Head spacer Cat $480 OH kit hopefully shipping Monday $4550 Already into this close to $3k then adding these on!! Not including trade goods! Will be close to $20k early summer Get a little more numb to it weekly.
Add $4,500 for tires, $300 for alignment, What about those wiper arms those are $150 each, Kysor kingpin kit $350, drag link $225, radiator core $1200. Better check that fan for hair line cracks $275. New seats $700 ea. U-joints $85 ea, all the oils and coolant $500, all new hoses $600. Do you want me to stop?
Yep and then some!! Knew this going in, readied for initial hits then will work on the lesser expense concerns as get down the lists. Support bearing insulator rubber is all cockeyed so bearing has spun, some corruption of steel components on aluminum panels (hinges on air cleaners), a number of extra work aspects not initially deemed as a requirement that are now. Money adds up, a great deal can be put off awhile yet will require attention. Wiper Trans is a Slop mess($310New) Biggest concern was engine viability, that passed muster, off to Overhaul, then sitting yes the cooling system could end up a mess, that is/was a concern but still within budget as a initial cost, hoses were already planned. At least Kingpins rod ends and majority of steering components inspect Good, do have TRW Gear seals coming as seeping, have a few dogbone bushings in back degraded, all eight air bags, shocks, brakes, seals and still have to Drive it once running to see what shakes down first time out. Not in any real hurry except to have it road worthy by June. Doable.
Its always a tossup when buying weather to buy something that is newer looks to be in good shape for more money or something you know needs work. When i got the c70 i bought i was going to look at 2 that day the the one i didnt buy was a 1980 that wasnt a tractor. It was a 1000.00 cheaper but hadnt run in 2 years need tires had a bed,tag axle and to much frame. I would have rather had it. I started out that morning to look at both of them but i got to thinking about the time it would take to get the one not running home and i drove strait to the running one. It has been ok so far but i still think about using it to tow the other one home.
Holy **** you got that spacer plate cheap!!!!! The one for my 3406A was listed at $1200 Cdn. I worked for the local Cat dealer at the time and even at employee price it was dang near $500 Cdn. I ordered a Yellowmark one first. Figured how hard is it to screw up a flat plate. Apparently very easy. Had over an inch of warpage and it measured over spec in some spots and under in others. Gave it right back to the parts department. Didn't even meet Cat's reuse and salvage guidlines right out of the box.
good progress DM! when i tackle a large project of my own, it takes me a long time because of other life crap that comes up and also i suspect i have attention deficit disorder. plus i overthink things. a guy once told me i am a victim of what i know but now i think its also the stuff i don't know
Yesterday MORE pissy news MoDMV would not process my vin tag replacement after Three weeks of them sitting on it Sent me another request form as I found out this morning not all MoSHP Troopers are allowed to perform VIN ID/Ods The Trooper SENT to my house not on the lists. Almost had a veiner over that comment then asked what they wanted ME to do about Their screwup OMG they cannot get it thru their thick heads I did NOT ask for a particular trooper THEY dispatched him NOT MY PROBLEM So gal states ‘I’ must call MoSHP and get corrected, not their job So angry I call MoSHP Get the MVI department Sgt that set this charade up, HE is going to come out Thursday HIMSELF and do this Even he stated bureaucratic bungling. I AM writing my local state legislature reps Gonna chew someones ass out over this garbage.
Better make some coffee and get some really good donuts. Just set them there and don't offer him one. Let him take his own so he don't think you are trying to bribe him.
Did get to Cat picked up spacer plate almost scared to open the box. And KW This is a Tousan Dollas!! $1k a Grand!!!! Sitting on the back seat of my car next to a Kleenex box.
Save the ink, paper, envelope and stamp it's only going to be round filed sorry to say. DMV is the same everywhere.
Mostly interior stuff Steering column parts, fasteners, shift boots, p/s seal kit, two fuel caps misc SMALL parts Did get a quote on seats Legacy higher end units Long wear Cloth upholstery $590and change each. High back swing down longer arm rests Is gonna check availability for two entire seatbelt assemblies(shoulder belt retractors trashed) call me tomorrow Seats Always on special thru them.
And just think it's a hunk of steel plate with a bunch of holes punched in it, you need to tell them {it's like a doughnut-for that price I want the holes too.
Yep, and still SPENSIVE as all get out! Today got clutch return spring on, column tilt mechanism replaced and cable installed/adjusted, replaced pins in throttle assembly and piddled with getting the excess trash hauled out for today's trash day! That Tousan Dollas parts all laid out and the pins for the throttle pedal. Tomorrow will have PTO seals to install and reset to refill box, then p/s steering input and output seals to replace. It was on a Ross gear really similar to this TRW unit I almost lost Left Eye. Parts buy from IPD has been charged to my Visa, hope they come early next week. Spotted a "Good Used 6NZ Processor" on fleabay, it should be here tomorrow, already downloaded the SIS electrical diagrams and pin identifiers for the Edit, reposition.
Current order at KW is OE style Floor mat, both seat belt assemblies, under dash panel 'S' clips and Two seats. There be OVER a Grand Day!!
Those will be the last orders for a short time. Will work on finish cleaning and assembling majority of engine then have to allow a Cash reload in the Bank for the exch injector set and single turbo/manifold kit. Also still awaiting the MO SHP MVI Div inspector to show up, may be awhile as we received 2" snow today, he may be busy elsewhere.
I'm feeling just a bit better about my "big truck". When I offered a fire department 1/2 the asking price for a seldom used fire truck, I thought I had a bargain. It had 640 hours total on the engine, much of that sitting idling while training was in progress. These drive the pump behind the transmission, so the odometer piles up miles while the pump rotates to prevent freezing. I figured roughly 10,000 miles + unknown hours pumping, (200?) The rest idling to circulate. Odometer recorded less than 31,000 miles. Everything looked good, some rust on the springs. Maxi cans were not pretty. I ran the numbers in my head, paid the fire chief, and drove away. I flatly refuse to total the money spent. I couldn't live with myself. Latest event was radiator rebuild. We buggered the hood when a cable let go unexpectedly. I then discovered there was a lot of hood repair before I bought it. I've searched the country, only found one claimed to be unbroken around the hinges. It is half a country away, and they want half what I paid for the rest of the truck. The nose, (first four inches of the whole truck) has been in the cellar weeks now as I find too little time to try my hand at fiberglass repair. I'll fabricate reinforcement to carry hood weight past the headlights to larger surface above. Other styles of GM trucks had headlights farther from the hinges, they didn't get stress cracks around the hinges. I hope to cure a shake, I believe is driveshaft issue, add AC & persuade Mrs. B to tow the camper with it. It dumps, so I could carry a runabout vehicle of her choice on the bed, (a Jeep of many varieties).
Lucky for me local rep has email and still active Sent him my rant He can trash can it and not make dump materials
PTO seals came yesterday Will be able to finish that up and refill box today May get to stripping all the coolant hoses off then pressure check heater cores
Received phone call from Rep Really respected politically correct email Wanted to report the managers for DOR and DMV div of DOR are being summoned to the Capital chambers Seems mine is one of HUNDREDS as to less that courteous and less than instructive or helpful complaints “They will be getting this changed”
And I did get the ID OD second inspect done today, That form is in the mail back to DMV currently. Also resealed the PTO, should be able to get the air side reconnected tomorrow to cycle it and keep seals cut in. 489 series Chelsea, shaft exposed on both ends as has a lube thru port for a spline coupling, it also got a blocking plug installed. Found one gasket three cover bolts thru threads, indicator switch, both shaft seals and a mounting bolt thru the threads leaks.
Good luck with that. VT DMV has been a nightmare most of my life: I once bought a vehicle from the Federal Government. These vehicles come with a pound of paperwork proving it is a legitimate purchase. The Federal Government does not use titles, they do not provide titles. My Jeep was floundering in paperwork 3 months before they figure out how to register it. I once bought a car from a widow after her husband died. The car was in both names, but as everything they owned was in both names, there was no probate required. It took four months before my car was registered. After my father retired & turned the business over to me, I bought a pickup for him. He traded his pickup to buy the new one. I paid for the trade cost. It was titled in both names with legal language for rights of survivorship. It took years to resolve that one. My uncle got old. I & my son accompanied him on boat excursions years. Eventually, he stopped going along, always made an excuse. I stored in my possession for years. He talked of signing it over to me, but never got around to it. Ultimately, he died without any paperwork passing between us. I was his executor, I could have forged something. I opted to be honest. I went to DMV, explained the situation: "I have nothing in writing saying I own it." The DMV lady asked: "How long have you had it in your possession?" I answered: "Nine years." "You own it." she replied. Go figure?! I've always considered DMV more THE DEPARTMENT OF OBSTRUCTION.
Will you use a PTO?
Will remain a Option, is no pump attached just blank flanged but still need to cycle the box on occasion keep seals surfaces cut in. Right Tank is compartmentalized, Front HYD and Rear Fuel so a Wet kit could easily be reinstalled, pump lines and control.
Took little woman's Exploder into Ford last night, rear suspension and a roof rack notice to check on, added a growl seeming from the R Frt. And Yes, the RF Wheel bearing had begun failing due to tree drive over so left message for our Insurance Claims Clerk with Invoice number and costs. $581. and change!!!
Been at it in shop, dragged out ALL the excess crap and threw on the little trailer still have odds ends and new parts going together. Disassembled Right Door, got stop assembly replaced, have glass out until pick up a few replacement Aluminum 3/16 hucks as two broken for outer window seal frame. Have a few screws to change out and maybe pick up some interior screw head upholstery washers. R Door lock manual knob was broken will see what that entails. Replaced input seal on Steering box today, was working over the counter bores after that and Fedex Frt called, be in town tomorrow, driver will call as close to town with lift gated trailer. Will swap in town to my pickup and come home. Engine internals have arrived. Will be another trip to KW Wed or Thu, parts arriving there as well, be dropping off Tax paperwork at accountant same trip as not far away.
Almost forgot Wiper motor to arm linkage is in shop floor, swaged link at motor for R Arm feed is FUBAR where would allow arm to random swing nearly anywhere and pivot point bushings worn to allow the wipers to over travel. Arm spline bores are beaten to a pulp expanded and could move on the spline with nut tight so two of the $150 arms will be necessity!! Splined pivots appear to be in good standing order with the small side pin also OK. Date code on linkage shows been changed around 2007. Per parts mgr at KW, been updated a few times since then.
Today was busy Cleaning up small stuff Procured a pair of newer 3/4-16 taps as my 45 year old unit is getting dull!! Need to thread chase head bolt holes and make certain CLEAN and able to thread head bolts in unabated Fedex truck and I met up in town this all showed up today Checking shipping contents list. Amazing how much stuff scatters out inventorying
BIL made me a Care Package of inventory his employer was pitching No longer had machines these applied to So I have New hose clamps pretty well as need, been five or six years since received so forgot I had them, D cells for dimensions.
i am envious of that clamp assortment
Careful with that 3/4 -16 tap DM, you know those ruin threads.
Have to finish clearing rat turds from head bolt holes!! So can have threads!!
rat turds?
Rat Turds As arrived!!
Dropped off Income tax stuff to CPA in STL County, bad news is the Stimulus from April is a Reduction $$Amount in any refund might get, do not ask of if Owe. Dropped by KW, got Floor Mat assembly both seat belt assemblies(In Small parts pieces) two seats and some other pre-ordered small stuff.
By golly those are bonified rat turds.
I'm betting they are closer to petrified Your shop-vac broke ?
I was wondering how that was going to work... they counterfeit our currency, tell us what a great job they're doing by giving it to us, then make us pay it back???...
nothing is free in life.
Only constants are Death and Taxes! Only spent $2700 at KW This Time around!! Already did the shop vac routine, removed much of the rat detritus but threads needed cleaned out. After removed turds sanded and inspected block deck the where cleaning internally will be the most tedious process.
Solvent sprayer.
that too
Well the Fun never ends, Iphone 6(Ten + years old has decided no longer likes me, currently enduring a Restore to OE Settings since the last update. Will see how well that evolves.
Finally time for photos New seating and floor cover Access to door hucks
Second seat will remain boxed awhile At least until sleeper boot swapped. Got my replacement pressure lube tank Old one kinda rusted out Been sitting awhile in barn
When I prime a engine oil system, I use the bulk oil metering gun on the hose reel. Remove the twist nozzle on end and have JIC fittings for gun and block. Pumps the oil system full in no time.
My old tank was a used, cleaned out and fitting welded in, less than OSHA or ASME Qualified LP pressure tank with a Standpipe set in it. Took us three tries to get it pressure tight using a Lincoln Tombstone welder then Sealing the porous welds with brass and a Gas Axe over 35 years ago. Sat in my barn since bought the place in 2009, got really corrupted and I just could not risk using it again, went to scrap. Used lube oil guns in a Garage in OFallon MO years ago, similarly with a box of random assorted fittings. This will last the rest of my lifetime, into someone else's. 8 qt.
Look like genuine Missouri rat turd there!
Maybe I just don't trust anyone these days but I would at least open that second box up to be sure the seats match and there isn't some mouse holes in the seat covers!
Done that more than once, with VC's off just to see oil up at the top end.
Already opened the box and yes match, but the turds be Oklahoma grown! Cannot remember starting a engine without prelube since I was a pup, Was why I built the old tank.
Oh to end any confusion, the unboxed seat was already unboxed when got it, the one in the box is the photo of the one in the box!! And is still in the Box!!
Who's on first?
Weather finally REALLY shut me down, have parts coming in can pick up but Cold sat upon our little region and shop is shuttered for now. Fluorescent Lighting has dimmed to half, no heat on larger bay side and water in there can now freeze anywhere close to door. Hands do not like me anyway but cold basically shuts off prolonged use. So until warms up truck sits patiently.
We are hunkered down too here.
Even our Ground Source is unhappy today, barely keeping up. Gonna have to add a Water Boiler heating coil or a Wood Stove, or Both.
I've always wanted a wood stove in our house, we're all electric and just a heat pump, so if the power goes out, we're in trouble. My last house had propane heat, so I could run my blower and electric off a small generator and could have heat when the power was out. Made it through a week of this kind of weather with no power with just a small generator. My house now just doesn't have a good place to put a chimney in. Small generator won't turn my heat pump. I guess I could do outdoor boiler, but then I still need power. Maybe one of the propane wall heaters? The best is - the local utilities are all over the news to have everyone "conserve energy". They shut down several of the coal generators in springfield in the last couple years, and have converted some to natural gas. We'll guess what. With the cold the wells are supposedly freezing up in texas and OK, and solar and wind just don't cut it. Natural gas prices are supposedly up also, so guess who's getting bigger bills. Next thing we'll be back to third world status like CA with rolling blackouts.
I have a ventless propane wall heater and i put one in my parents house very cheap insurance if something happens.
Just announced in our local Rag Newspaper and on COMO tv news CNG prices surging UP, asking for conservation as bills will also surge UP.
When Built did not alot a spot for a flue either, spray foam insulated and Hardy Concrete Sided so a Major PITA to set one now. Insurer did not want to have to adjust our bill for inside fire source so put it on back burner, bad choice. IF, major BIG IF ever get to build anything else will have some form of wood fired heat.
We are in the same spot no gas only electric. Our Split mini's will keep up till about 25 and then they do struggle, so the last two days I turned on the electric furnace. @DMiller our next house will also have a place for a wood stove.
Electric baseboard heat here and everything else in the house is electric. I am about as cheap as one can be so first thing i did when i bought this place was put a big wood stove in the basement. My electric bill is every two months and gets about 75$ more expensive in the winter. Would not trade that stove for anything
Mrs B parks in a sea of Subarus & Priuses every day at the school she teaches. Carbon footprint is an obsession. ONLY environmentalists are allowed to work there. They take a dim view of her Jeep Grand Cherokee in the lot. She drives 1.5 miles to get there. When the subject comes up, she asks how much oil or propane they use for home heating. We use none.
Prius and Leaf cars, any of the battery power cars require TONS more energy than solar will provide, not gonna get it off the grid without being Drilled for Fuel Produced or Fossil. The batteries use Lithium and require Severe mining with MILLIONS of tons of waste and waste water, about as dirty as it gets.
Not to mention all of the plastic holding those pieces of crap together.
I would love a electric car. 6 cents a kilowatt hour makes for some cheap driving. Also in the winter it blows instant heat.
Ours is 9.6 cents a kilowatt Off peak
6.08¢/kWh for energy consumed up to 40 kWh per day times the number of days in the consumption period (1st tier) 9.38¢/kWh for the remaining energy consumed (2nd tier)
So right now i am finishing the basement so if i run the stove hard its just too hot to work. We are averaging $5.30 a day for hydro. That powers everything in my house.
It's all about the perception of being green. New community here all homes are "net zero", many won't even have natural gas in them, even though that's how 99.99% of homes are heated because it gets to -40 and electric won't cut it. But the subdivision has a 8" high pressure gas line to heat the water to send to the homes to help heat them, other then that just electric heat. But since the gas isn't used by the homes, it doesn't count towards their emissions. So stupid, and most likely going to cost homeowners a fortune trying to keep warm with electric.
We have a "delivery charge" for electricity. The juice may be 7 something cents/KWH but the delivery charge brings it up to 28 cents/KWH. We also don't have natural gas. Propane is $4.10/gallon if you are buying less than 300 gallons at a time. Lots of people including me have oil burning heat. When the billion people in China "go green", I'll think about it.
Heat pumps are very efficient, trouble is, others in this country pay less than half as much for electricity. Still, a heat pump buys more BTUs for your dollar. Now, when it gets very cold outside the heat pump loses efficiency, produces less heat when we need more. You'll still need other heat source. I was amazed, a group of geniuses built a facility 18,500 square feet of 12' tall ceiling. 3 garage doors, 6 walk doors, not a lot of windows. It is well insulated, double studded 14" thick walls, 40" of cellulose in the attic. They have 8 12000 BTU heat pumps + a 24000 for the office area. There is also a wood stove. They maintain 60D F. in VT, sometimes -20F
Heat pump had enough last night, finally worked long enough hard enough it cooled down the transfer field area where would not give up any further heat, called for Backup Emergency heat(Electric) which has been shut off except for when the coil leaked, turned it on last night to keep house warm 7kw resistance heater, borderline not enough. After a few hours HP ran again where could exchange more heat and ran until just at hour ago, ground source coolant reached min temp again and went back to resistance heat.
Spoke to HVAC Contractor, system not designed to handle the extreme temps are seeing for extended period. Suggested Supplemental heat source(Wood Stove) and will work up a bid to add a loop in a different region of yard , currently 3 loops that run in a 555G bucket width trench 5-6' deep, extra loop may have to be well away from those for efficacy where will add several gallons exchange fluid to the ground source where may be able to heat recover longer regardless. Working options costs up.
When i was framing houses i over heard the hvac guys say ground source and started laughing. I ask what was so funny they said it would be wornout before it saved any money. That seems true.
Here, where we see extended periods of 0 Degree weather few systems use ground heat. We went from 1990 physics when we simply did not have enough air heat to make heat pumps function justifiably. Then, very determined people added resistance heaters in the outdoor air to move the air a few degrees to where a heat pump would function. Changes in scroll compressors, inverter power sources feeding DC motors, heat pumps have become energy savers. Ground source heat pumps are limited to "out of state millionaires, building here." Still, very few homes lock in to the heat pump only strategy. 99% have a less efficient heating system that rests when moderate temperatures make a heat pump function better.
Our ground source is field type, three 160' long yard loops set at 5' depth. Normal year t-stats(4 zones) set on 70 and all is well, this Vortex event sent us into minus temps with no snow on the ground and steady wind, earth heat dissipates fast. Last night thru this morning had t-stats sitting on 65(Spare room) and 67 rest of upstairs, 8" snow blanket yesterday and heat pump not had to switch off to emergency coil. Wish could have gotten loops deeper but hit the top of the hill solid rock at 4' and had to bring fill up from excavation at highway easement to add 10-20" atop that. Neighbor has Well system with four 400' wells with pipe grouted into holes, cannot match our utility cost. Shop and house combined(Single Meter) generally run $245 to 315/mo, month on 7kw coil last winter the expense was close to $500 with t-stats set at 65 so am seeing a noted level of savings. Even if only $200/mo figured after rebate and Fed Tax abatement from first install we will turn break even at 7 years(2 more). Loops still in ground replace main unit at $7500- 8500 and back in business at roughly twelve-15 years expected lifespan. Our Emergency circuit usually sits down powered breaker OFF, as temps come back up will return there. Have no AC Condenser outside, HP does both on ground loops, cooling never been a issue.
Most likely going to have to supplement to keep the system from coil loading, can justify that. HP pull heat from ground source coolant, pushes cold side back into that coolant out to field. if cannot cycle off for short periods then the loops load cold and cannot recover ground heat where if can extend time Off ground source heat can recover. Have plenty of wood in logged tree tops, looking at five year intervals of Walnut Logging and have plenty of dead or dying trees can drop for use. Oak Black Locust fence row Walnut(wire inside) and Hickory. Some hackberry, some other hardwood varieties even some elm if need to use.
This morning HP finally full failed. Did not drop below 28 last night but system went back into overload and dropped compressor, will not recycle to restart So just shut it down until Tech gets here. Yesterday piddled in shop as floor still like laying on a iceberg, reassembled right door to where need manual lock rod to complete(Maybe in today's orders), got seat belt tethers replaced, set the door restraint cushions and shifter boots/replacement shift knob assembly then just looked it over as to next operations. Need door finish assembled, clean off cab floor, measure and set shifter hole/seats bolting holes in floor mat then set mat. After that in place replace Sleeper boot perhaps install both seats and then return to engine work.
Blower motor took a dump in the waste oil furnace in the company shop a week ago, two weeks to get a new one. But the shop doesn't have heated floors anyway so it's always cold working off a creeper, now it's even colder.
Tech just left, asked why the Hi Pres cutout alarm of another tech, reached in to see if has a reset but when reached in wire fell away from wire terminal. Just a broken connection. Did get my external building plug in setup installed. Have forever ran a extension cord out under door, decided time for a change up. As set up junction box inside can expand off of that.
GFI tripping in 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 ...........
Nope, All Good, 20a circuit, primarily for my Block Heater or a battery Charger.
Needs an in use raintight cover & GFCI protection.....Don't see any supports on the EMT either. Lets get this right. Support within 3' of each end & not more than 10' apart.
Used 2-1/2” emt clips screwed to wall metal on each horizontal run all good there. The down runner is going to get standoffs. Staying with as is box cover and outlet until someone here barks code on it!!
Nice to have a 20 for those block heaters. Surprisingly, the work Duramax does not have one. It seems to do OK without it, but I do like how the Ram Cummins is already warm when I use the heat. It will melt a couple of small holes in the ice/snow right above the defroster.
Forgot to note Outer box is mounted to a Girt for the siding and silicone sealed to the wall face.
From recent experience you can't run 3 block heaters and 1,800' of "temporary" extension cord to the new wireless internet tower on a 20a- it'll pop and put everyone within a 14mi radius out of internet. [ Wait. What? 1,800' of extension cord? ]
Wife and her sis ran off for a lunch away day Went Shopping, bought squat as usual. I went to it on the truck. Cleaned out cab floor and vacuumed out Measured ONE More time cut shifter hole in new mat. Calculated or maybe kalcalated for inner most forward seat bolt hole and made a pilot holes then installed mat Finished installing under dash panels then pulled mattress and sleeper false floor to do the boot seal.
Just got pics loaded, Awls in pre-punched holes, was close enough. Have a pattern for both sides to set the in mat spacers when get to setting seats. Pedals reinstalled, shift boot affixed, pretty well cleaning as go. Either need to replace or eliminate Cross Bunk front belt halves. Back halves not been used much and were buried beneath mattress.
Got your drill and #20 torx bit warmed up for that sleeper boot?
ALL Set!! Just gotta get my vocabulary and mind set right to get it on!! Remember the last one I changed some 30 years ago, on a Coffin Bunk so considerably smaller and a MAJOR PITA to change. It had two piece Chrome trim then a plastic retainer then The Boot.
Boot gets completed, can set seats and seat belt tethers to floor, finish up with **** in my way on the floor and the loose KW parts on my bench. Back to engine then, and will not have a issue with stuff in the cab falling apart when comes time to start the engine.
Looking really good!
Turned out #2 phillips heads Old piece out, clearing off temporary patch goober now. This may end up harder than getting boot screws out!
there are things to be said for integral sleepers
Yes there are just would not fit in my shop and not part of this package deal!! At least tough part done Will price replacement cover as is pretty icky inside and out.
if you haven't tried it a heat gun works wonders on th goop
Heat gun and single edge razor scraper! My vocabulary may have expanded a bit over this one! May have conjured up a few new words!
The words don't change, only the number used and the intensity. You just put more feeling into the phrases!
Integral sleeper ruins any aspect of turning a OTR tractor into a Day Cab. I bet I have changed out over 30 sleeper boots Pete and KW. Aren't those fun!
Sucked thirty years ago, Still sucks!! But still doable.
Have to pull sleeper heater box apart, see if can mangle fabricobble a repair to the box itself or try to find one in a yard. Sat way too long, base around cores is crumbling.
Arthur's Auto Rutland VT, None better. Gary's son runs the show since Covid, the "boy" is in his sixties. I sure hope he outlasts me. I'm an electrician, but wouldn't dream of doing a starter, generator, alternator, or radiator. I was buying a Central Tractor starter for an IH tractor about every two years. Took one to Roy 24 years ago, still working fine. I can't easily count the radiators he rebuilt for me. Never had a leak.
Very difficult to locate a shop like that now Wish I had one close by.
Well going to end up replacing entire Sleeper heat/cool package, entire base is just Gone, tubes to A coil rusted off as well and not trusting heat core as to corrosion visible. Found when taking hoses and lines loose to pull it was already slopping around in sleeper floor. Bergstrom unit, they no longer offer the part number(740088) but have a updated unit similar dimensions, do have a part search n at Vanderhaags as a used source, maybe. Another of the pieces to close up cooling system for engine is why went there.
You could install a diesel heater from Planar. I have a Chinese knock off that kept this camper warm when the winds were whipping at 50 below zero in 32 below temperatures and it's a 5KW one. Drinks about 5 gallons on worse conditions in 3 days.
Got a used heater ac assembly coming from Vander Haag's KC MO, $200 plus UPS, should be here by Friday next week. Out of a Similar sized 2006 coffin bunk.
Glad ordered the used assembly, this one is a Tad Beyond my fabricobble or rust overlay welding capabilities! Believe or not, the sleeper floor is still solid. Almost forgot, I believe the drain was clogged!!
OH! come one that will buff out with a little elbow grease!
Tape to seal the hole so the JB Weld doesn't run out on shop floor! With help like us Dmiller should be good to go any day now, right?
sheeesh gone
I know, its almost like we are fixing it for him. He's got this big day job now, so we're going to have to step up the internet fixing- he won't have all the spare time he used to have. He's so busy, he won't even fix his wife's car.
I am STILL getting it done, Slower MAYBE but work still progressing!! I was not actively looking for work, could use a little distraction from time to time but did retire for a reason so not really looking to make a career here. Extra Money is good as ANY extra input of funds is handy but the OWNER of this company actually called and asked if I really meant would help out through bad times, and Yes, I did. Gets back to the lack of ethics in our youth society, somehow, some way need to re-instill that into todays kids and get THEM pushing the pedals, climbing on machines, repairing and building our infrastructure and living support systems or will be none in short order. And NO, cannot robotics/remote control EVERY job. And am LOVING the fix ideas, bad as they come but LMAO!!
Coincidentally, my buddy and I were talking last night about the people we knew in my age group (55+) that had "retired" and are still working in some form or another- same thing, not looking but get a call and an offer for some "part time" work " oh what the hell it's some extra money " We couldn't come up with anyone we knew that was really retired and tying flies in their basement to pass the time.
I have a few buds that are really retired, they had 30+ years at the Power Station so ended up in the money for pension. Some just cannot stand just relaxing, like me.
if you're like me you can only relax until your brain and imagination kick in
Relax, what's that!!!!
Not that I'll be there in foreseeable future, and men in my family don't live to late age. Nonetheless, I ponder retirement. I imagine a vital retirement. I'd have enough money to spend a bit more than my corn flakes. No way in Hell I'll ever be bored! If I only acted on the activities I now know I want to do, I'd have to live to 110 years of age. Every day a new idea or two come up.
My father repaired lift trucks for about 40 years. He was a miserable man to be around when i was growing up. Three and a half years ago i had a son and 3 years ago i bought a house. Thats when he decided screw this i am retiring he had just turned 65. He is a changed man now and has a wonderful relationship with his grandson. He stays busy now doing what ever he wants and if he feels like doing nothing he does nothing. He often helps people out with stuff but if they get on his nerves he tells them where they can go. Sounds pretty nice if you ask me. Only 35 more years to go.
I dream about retiring but for now i wish i could cut back to 40 hours a week at my day job. I am going to retire as soon as i can i am already trying to figure how i can down size so i will not need as much money.
I retired at 59, 81 now. Many interests no time to be bored. I harass my acquaintances that are working by saying they are lucky, they get weekends off, retirement is a 24/7 job.
Its a deal at work one of the drivers can retire but he has no hobbys or any thing to do.The owner is in the same boat he is a chaos junky so i cant see him ever retiring.
Ha! Chaos junky! Never heard that term but it fits some people I know so well!
A good sign of this is when a problem comes up instead of doing the sure fire way to fix it they want to try something that is know to fail .
Renter came by, wanted to see the machine up close, saw delivery last fall and wondered how far along. Was surprised was as far as have gotten. Also asked if considering selling it when done, then went on that IF, SHOULD WE Decide that want to downsize he would gratefully buy the 68 acres outside the house property and leave us stay on the ten with the house!! ALWAYS looking to buy more ground. Funny, as well KNEW it was his Brother across the valley that was on the same list.
Today was a Good Day! Dug around found the Brand New still in box Spool gun for aluminum for my welder, been sitting around forever so time to install. 3035 Miller, need to get some test stock and try it out.
Piddled around on some wiring issues under the hood as not too interested in laying under the engine today, next week perhaps. Will need to find a decent pigtail for left door switch and both door switches, had found a Door lamp screw run thru the wiring on Driver side. Replacement Bunk Heat/AC Box is in, need parts for AC Coil to reinstall it.
What are you going to weld with spool gun? I've got it here somewhere. My first attempt with spool gun, I polished up som 16 gauge 6061 plates to build a simple box. A friend let me try his outfit. It was NASTY! That's several years ago. I now have a spool gun but it's still in the box. I've owned it several years, haven't plugged it in. I far prefer TIG for aluminum. I think of MIG aluminum as best at 1/8" thick and over. TIG is good regardless of thickness. Marked advantages with TIG, unless speed is the most important factor. With MIG, push, don't drag. Use 5/8 to 7/8 stick out. It's a spray process
We used one some thirty years ago to stitch in small holes in trailer floors. Big thing was afraid would get mashed or ruined just sitting around at least on the welder is somewhat protectable and can use for small jobs
Be sure to turn the voltage up max for parameters of said thickness of aluminum you are welding, helps a bit along with pre heating especially if it's thick.
Another Day Off, KW Work day!! Parts coming in at KW Today so a noon run there. MO River is in Flood again(crest here tonight at 28.2'), rain has soaked Everything where clay not moving, rock undeliverable, sand inaccessible so not working to allow the guys to work that have only this shop for a paycheck.
Been hot at it, a few odds and ends that bugged the crap out of me. Doors all back together, all working, re-ended the plug for and replaced door lamp switch on left, just the switch on right, could not get compartment lights to work, found No Ground to bunk, working on getting cable ends to fix that. Had all wiper trans parts to put on so went hard after it, three firewall and one wiper motor mount to right arm support broke, got two of three on firewall drilled out and retapped, last one started getting foot cramps perched on front spring shackle and tire to drill from so stopped and set sleeves in the bores. Unhappy with the length of 3/4-16s I have to hold sleeves down so protrusion checks on hold til later this week. So polished up #1 & 6 Rod journals dragged down and replaced mains, are all setting at preliminary 190#, need to mark cabs and bolt heads torque turn two flats, arms were sore(I got old!) Had a piece of Farm Tractor Floor mat I ordered as a test piece, need to order another and both side compartments will be lined.
More Green cable on floor will get ended and installed frame to bunk box. Betsy still pulls to spec, tested on SnapOn tool truck this last week, MAC tools torque wrench.
And before ask, YES turns over just pulling gently on crank counterweights.
This is the compartment mat and what I will use around Bunk HVAC once get that together. Gonna order more Fehr mat.
Lyng on your back running a torque wrench will make a man out of you or something.
makes this guy with two rotator cuff surgeries last year, sore to just think about it
I know that feeling. no surgeries just worn joints
Nice spread
I see Spud has his maps search working , House and nine acres set aside for building loan while I await the day can buy Vernon Pottebaum out on the 4 acre key slot down the hill. Funny that they note the partial acre on Quit Claim deed across highway!! That is from when MODOT bought the corner and curved the once straight cut road there. The three small dots directly below the house lot line are cars when the neighbor was aligning to build and that is where their house went in. The grove of trees in the yard is the Grebe Family Cemetery, dats into the early 1800s "Lying on your back running a torque wrench will make a man out of you or something." Yes it does Doug, I represent the 'Or Something' side of that!!
Was pretty easy, you did most of the work in the first picture I can relate to torquing several hundred pounds on your back, including in the sand/mud, my CDI600 by Snap-On getting a workout. I need a new rear axle, any suggestions besides scraping the rig? Got a Spicer M190 2 speed under there with 4:89 ratio.
Find a used one with Air Brakes, transfer necessities, scrap the rest.
And do not be afraid to pick up a SA Tractor or a tandem straight truck, stretch it, single axle it out, add what you need and then are far better than this one.
Oh I am not afraid to, in fact I will be getting a deuce and half or five ton military truck and doing that. After over a year on the road I have learned to get to the good spots you got to leave the pavement and have a few times plus sunk it a few times too! Was looking for a quick fix that wouldn't take over 3 months to do, a military rig will take a year to get right like I want.
A little further then all ahead stop again. HVAC box full in and closed then the stabs on the resistor block pushed loose, already picked replacement up. Have matting in both side compartments and ground reattached for Sleeper I found just laying in the HVAC box area so compartment lamps and blower working again, suspect had been a issue awhile as someone been in the overhead compartment NUMEROUS times around switches. New AC lines for under sleeper are here as are the Fiber Washers for checking Protrusion so Saturday will be BUSY!! Wife has removed and Carper Cleaning machine Washed the mattress cover, going to repeat that after airs out some as looks to be in near new condition. Used up one Mat remnant in HVAC area just because had it. Also ended up replacing both Sleeper compartment latches as just rusted too far on internal mechanisms.
Was trying to get power to the Bunk Blower but a relay is missing so on hold there, moved to cab unit. Bought an aftermarket, not seriously happy with it but will do better than the rust ball hanging in tatters.
Also replaced two bad Well Nuts one on firewall and one on wiper linkage mount then rehung all but the blades. Cores in cab heater seen better days
Well found my Round Tuit and the nerve to finally check as been fearful would be really bad All within spec and within Cat tolerance of .001 across entire deck All .002s were heavy but not quite to .0025 & .0035s lighter than noted but marked as such.
For the low ones just put a 3/8 round bead of Blue Glue on them and let set for five minutes before installing heads and you should be good to go!
Single Head, with the Heavy reads and light reads is all good across the deck. Not Skert anymore.
i assume after you plunked the liners in that you spun them back and forth in place before you clamped them? just saying this to benefit anybody who's following this in-frame and does not have much experience. unless they are lower press-fit or upper press-fit or similar
Also used Acetone to clean Block Deck and lower edge of Sleeve lip.
Got brave today, been practicing the Spool Gun for Aluminum Welded in the two threaded bungs purchased a while back. Will be Less porous than the previous repair and last considerably better. Tank fittings threaded right in. Still have to dress the gauge hole cover seat point. Is far better than this, Return eaten away and standpipe bore cracked and corroded. May appear as Bird Poop but is tight.
And today as suggested Out came the old trans cooler What a royal pain and coolant side choked up
Bravo! Less is often a whole lot more.
Those rebar by the door for grouser tracks add on for when Fat Allis was around?
Yes they were Scrap now
Those coolers were a cold weather option, except in some cases truck salesman would spec every truck with that type. It was probably leaking a small amount. Eaton also built FRO 16210C's 10 spd with a internal engine coolant cooler built into the bottom of transmission case.
Bought the Air Cooled unit, looking to situate it out of the way but open enough the old style will not be returned to the Tans Top. The Western Star I am currently in has one mounted directly behind the cab on top of frame.
Had entire day off, received my Second CV19 vaccination today, thought would be uneventful not so. PCs went down or Mainframe recycled as first entered, had to wait twenty minutes for all to come back online then could not locate my record, misplaced a Numeral in birthdate typing. Shot was least obtrusive now dealing with angered arthritis.
My second shot was not fun. 14 hours, no reaction, then chills, sweats, achy everywhere. My skin hurt. Sounds strange, but taking off a shirt was like road rash! For 24 hours I had to PUSH to do anything, then symptoms started to subside. 48 hours from injection I was back to normal.
I probably wasn't as bad but your description does fit the time after my second shot.
I thought got away with no side effects but realized by the third day I was feeling like I had before bypass surgery. I had no energy I was contemplating calling my cardiologist when my wife told me fatigue was a side effect. took about a week but just feeling run down sounds like I got off easy
Geez Willie that is the worst reaction I have heard about.
No doubt! As to being up, is a normal for me to have to get up and walk stiff or stuck parts out about 4-5 hours in bed, much of which is not asleep Still no effects cutting in other than shoulder injection site a bit sore
Spoke WAY too soon Went to work yesterday was a little achier than usual where by 11 it was full on Every joint with arthritis every routine use muscle ached BADLY Eyes felt swollen and sore even my skin hurt Wife took temp was only 100.4 but I am usually 97 something. Worked all full day off at 5 Got home had a toasted cheese sandwich a glass of water and in bed by 6:30. Up at usual midnite felt some better up now and aches have receded back to normal, temp is 98.2 only now feel spent no energy. Had a bowl of cereal a banana and my coffee with normal meds. Not going into work. Will call in at 6:30. Is raining pretty steady where not gonna get much done anyway.
Mrs. B complained her eyes hurt after she got Johnson & Johnson along with other symptoms. I thought that didn't make sense, but I hear that's common.
Was a really weird sensation, this morning all backed down to 'normal'. Boss said was surprised did come to work yesterday, glad I am staying home today would see me Monday.
I had a graveyard shift scheduled for the night after the day of the shot. I am glad it got cancelled, I had that 100 fever thing that only ran 6 hours or so, right into that shift.
I had the J&J shot 2 weeks ago. I felt tired the next day, like I didn't sleep the night before, but otherwise no side effects at all. My wife has the second Pfizer vaccine yesterday. She was tired in the afternoon, but has suffered no other side effects yet.
My symptoms weren't debilitating, but sitting was more appealing than yard work. I had NO energy!
I never did check my temperature. Through the night I was sweating, then freezing. I'd guess I ran a fever of some mild level.
I jad no problems.......Did they do something wrong? Not like me to miss out.
No it seems each has their own reactions to the stuff Some worse some less, my own were not that severe except from my side of it just a few experience much worse. Doc I asked of it said my level of arthritis is easily awakened by this and did not surprise him, said I should have taken the next day off and symptoms could have been lessened but as I am a workaholic he said he doubted would have been any different.
BTW, sleeves set yesterday, set 1&6 piston/rod assemblies, rolled crank down and was setting #2 when the compressor I have had for forty years decided time to be a Witch and I dinked a oil ring, retried with ring from second set dinked that b*****d as well so on the net, ordered a PT 7040 Clamp type and called KT to order two more ring sets. Also cut crap out of finger Left hand with it so was madder than a wet hornet bleeding on nearly everything. NOT going to repeat until compressor comes in and ring sets arrive where can finish that evolution, then set shim, spacer and maybe head. Will be moving new head back to truck side today then disassembling the rest of the old head to situate it with remaining scrap. this was assembly station for Sleeve rings, washed, final clean with a little more acetone,(tan can) clean oil for top band(red can) and soap for lower rings/band. Two at a time until all seated and two bolts gently keeping in place. Piston showing Offset skirt base to cooler spray nozzles. Gaining room and bench space continually, also ordered per suggestion of local body shop a Eastman Co Devilbis HVLP Kit two guns three cups and DeKups system initial set.
Would pop up just enough to let oil ring sneak out enough to distort Really pissed me off That why no photo til this morning
Get out the super glue.
I vote for electrical tape
first First aid I reached for Except keep knocking it back open
Spread it out, glue, hold it until glue sets. Apply subsequent layers of liquid skin, or more glue.
I learned that from a vet when my dog had a nasty gash on a rear paw pad. It held until healed. You need extra layers. Don't be afraid to let it overlap 1/8 from the cut.
Did that, more than once, tore it up tearing it apart when hit it again!! Took the rest of the night off. This morning moved both heads back to Truck side.
So satisfying to have all the buckets back in
Tough luck on the oil ring. The only time I saw my dad cringe was installing pistons in anything. The new tapered compressors really are the cats ass. You do very nice work Mr. Miller. Such attention to detail. Glad you take the time to share.
Old driptroit Piston installers, Liner 'Stuffers' were really handy, JY has all of my DD Diesel Stuffers. Currently sorting bolts, washers, remnant pieces, have to get three head bolts with stud extensions and a few odd fittings that are quite corroded on the head. Need to get the New head on cribbing and a sheet of wood support to swap all the extraneous parts then it can be set. Have set the oil pump and support tray, have to sort thru the o-rings I have and find the tube seals to install them, then the Oil pan.
Well spoke to the real expert on these engines, The studded head bolts are a delete from ACERT to 6NZ Clone, Not a issue. Number of small points on the engine will get a facelift for the Delete.
Head is at a STOP, rear cap cover will NOT budge, broke two T40 TorX bits and screws never moved, even tried heat. Gonna order a New cover and screws be done there. Small stuff on top is swapped, need to swap lifting eyes and a few small fittings with Intake snorkel and once Cam Cover and Cam are in then on the block it goes. Polished on cam, cleaned it and stepped away for a bit, came back reinspected and have to polish a few spots a little more Oil pump tubes all secured and completed, Was having concerns as to the bolts and where they had come out for these, were in the WRONG places for four of them, also had a stripped pan bolt hole rear and one front covers, 3/8 16 so helicoiled and all good again, pan is Up, replaced 'Isolater' gasket. Note, Pan HAD to have been off in the past, are several 3/8-16 bolts for the reinforcement tray/plate and the oil pump tubes, discharge is held to block by two 1.5" bolts NO Washers per SIS, two other 1.5" bolts WITH washer for plate under mains, three small dia washer 3/8-16 5/8' long are remainder to plate three same size Large Washer one to Suction tube at pump boss and two on one mount brace, other mount brace gets two remaining 1.5" with large washer bolts. They were all but three in wrong locations. That and the two retainer bolts being stripped in the end covers.
Maddening when people can’t be bothered to put stuff back together properly.
ya and when people put painted bolt heads inside an engine instead of outside
A real problem when there is a night shift..
May swap the Raised ear drain plug for one of the others that do not get dragged out. Got to working on head today after planting flowers and plants wife brought home from BIL's. Head is parts transferred save the rear cam cover and cam, also one Fuel line fitting to front of head, likely NOT this week but soon will swing it into place. Did have to make a repair while off the head, came off in Two parts!! Been hearing stories of EPA busting heads on aftermarket suppliers, ordered single turbo kit this morning from Momentum Worx.
One consideration had been worried of was the rods lower shells, now that have been on new head it also has that same Luster appearance to the cam bearings.
If that bracket shows you don't want it on an overhauled engine. Send it to me, it'll come back pretty. I even got a rattle can of Caterpillar yellow.
Is at rear of head, Invisible!!
Engine will get a spritz of paint when sealed up an test ran, I am not too concerned of aesthetics except for the exterior. Otherwise will just stay cleaned AFTER is running again.
OK I understand.
MORE parts arrive, So I chose a different KW Dealer to the one been using as found they have a regular delivery run thru our little town to a truck line shop south of here, NOT a problem to drop off parts I order and paid for on CC!! So I ask as to CAT Parts, NOT a problem again!! So I order the cam end cover and screws(They had the screws ON HAND, had been quoted by CAT as to price, had seen all manner of NOS Prices on Fleabay and other web sites all well above the CAT quote, so inside the bag was my receipt. CAT had quoted OVER $20 for the Cover and OVER $3 each for the screws, SAME SUPPLIER as to KW and these were delivered, I did NOT have to go pickup. Turbo is part of the Momentum Worx order, manifold is due to arrive today!
Another piece arrived, fastener kit is still on the way.
You blacked out the address this time except with my skills I can still see it. Needs a few more black out lines
Don't really care, wife was P&M'ng of me leaving it exposed!! Made her happier.
Going to have to paint the engine at this rate of all those new parts. Looking great on the build, maybe I can get there one day.
Mowed til rained strong enough to chase me off yard Back to inside work Set cam and rear cover Set head Not bolted down yet Taking a little break like maybe have dinner!
Nice and shiny piece of steel you got there.
I don't think it's steel.
It is
Sorry, I'm talking about head, You are talking about what's in the box.
They are both steel...
How many new head bolts?
ALL and New Washers too. Went to get my Int'l Compound No.2 out to lube them as Cat no longer sells their bolt assembly lube, was told IC#2 works as well. Well my supply is over 70 years Old(Was 1/2 a can when a old hand gave it to me) Old Hand got it from had it over his entire career of thirty some years, it is also almost empty and reached in, is a Rock as well nowhere near enough. Found a new can and having it shipped in.
Series 60 Detroit peanut butter bolt lube.
Same as 71, 92 and 53 series bolt lube!! Peanut Butter, used it on Cummins, Driptroits, Gas engines, just all around good stuff. And a LITTLE goes almost as far as Anti Seize.
I use the peanut butter on the 60's, Cat and Cummins I used this stuff on everything including head bolts & washers. Good stuff.
I apologize! & be with the starving pygmies down in New Guinea.
Got the deed lubed and done All head bolts are final set at 330 ft. Lbs.
Top of head before covered up again, went into bunk and finished HVAC box reset all tins and reset mattress. Time to get the small stuff out of the way so can get to floor space.
Moved more crap OUT of the building, trailer almost ready to haul to scrapper. Moved temp workbench to other side of truck where will be more essential and peeled open the new turbo, a real prize working in shipping, at least none of the foam entered the mechanism. Have the Idiot light sensor and what I presume is the Temperature gauge sender to replace, are o-ring boss straight thread but no CAT ID Markings on them, had gotten started on T-stat housing work.. Need to stop by hardware store and pick up more sweeping compound, no need for dust flying everywhere.
Two sensors, plastic at connector ends just crumbled to dust. And Yes, I gave a little more skin and blood to the process today!
Now the FUN News on this, the two wire Gauge unit, $47 and change, the SINGLE wire unit is $249 and change, parts man going to check if a Misprint as he did not remember these being so EXCESSIVE high, numerous odds and ends ordered, be a few days to receive.
Been meaning to post this and forget Peanut butter for those that have not used IC #2
T-stat housing, exhaust manifold and new turbo on, clocked cartridge set drain line and installed but not connected the oil feed, will oil that up just before pressure lube engine just to make certain is well enough oiled, worked on Cab heater box some more as ran down on pieces just placed, have hoses being changed out where need to make another list for KW, hung a few odds and ends Left side figured out the puzzle pieces to come out of the box next. Picked up the floor sweep compound yesterday, did a little cleaning then set off the burn barrel and eliminated a PILE. Got a pic of bunk back together.
It says Detroit-International-IH thread compound-----------only to be used on IH with a detroit---a 190 IH.
Now thats funny!!
Another load of KW parts, even got the 6NZ turbo to Air Charge Cooler tube, local Carquest made up new fuel lines from/to tanks and the soft lines on engine. Today got that wild hair lined back up, got Rolling Tetanus running loaded and bound down. MAYBE swap it to JY one of next weekends.
So the engine sides are cleaning up nicely, cab heater box is reassembled and plumbed except for final AC lines.
Will add, yesterday ordered the fuel injectors from a recommended source, Diesel Controls of OH, while thinking too hard ordered the air bags, lines shocks and ride height valve from KW. Diesel Controls asked if I could send my cores in, may be having to build them as the series of injector they are are slim in supply and likely will have to be after the 29th as repair rebuild parts for these are extremely slow in arriving.
Last coolant hoses on, filled system, so far no leaks and nothing dribbling to pan(Plugs out). Began the process to situate the new trans cooler behind the toolbox.
Uh-- Cummins is real hard to get parts from and in some cases Cat isn't much better. Dealers are using up the aftermarket supply also. Be aware aftermarket is getting depleted. KW has a hold up on new deliveries, hard time getting electric switches for doors and dash.
Have two truck companies nearby with machines sitting awaiting parts, were told no date as to arrival.
Need to add, several of those sitting trucks are being cannibalized to keep others moving.
Most recent delivery Expensive but here and the parts man looked out for me as the bags are beginning to get scarce on his Paccar inventory reports.
Engine is awaiting fuel injectors as shipped the core units to Diesel Controls in OH They are having issues with getting enough parts too where requested mine to build instead of just exchanging. Cam gear is on and torqued. Could Not locate my old sacrificial feeler gauges I used on backlash set up so bought another el cheapo set and will check this before reset peanut cover.
Well as getting close to necessity, hauled the "6NZ" Processor down to Cat for a reflash, was a drop off as could not stay. Dropped off Monday last week. Got the call yesterday afternoon where got so mad could have torn the head off the t-urd that sold it to me, another Fleabay bad day. Seems once Cat plugged into it to review is NOT for a C15 but a C12, will REQUIRE a Program Delete and Reprogram with a set of parameters from Corporate that will have to be PURCHASED, estimate coming Monday as the shop gets the pricing from Cat Corporate. So if find something on Fleabay being sold by Dieseltrade, maybe look elsewhere as I took a shafting from the seller. Should have taken it in for the reflash when got it, was NOT expecting it to be a different engine series processor. Buyer Beware yet again.
Back at it this morning, less angry and less likely to tear something up while mad as to the ECM. Will get the whole bad news tomorrow.
Could have got you one.
May still need to procure a REAL 6NZ ECM if the price is too excessive on this.
Today's exploits included getting backlash set and peanut cover on does have the upper shroud braces back on as well, began tidying up around the engine for components that could be tied down, added 7 gallon oil to the pan after re-oringing the magnetic plugs and filled then installed oil filter, cleaned up in the bay so not tripping thru crap again and got trans cooler hanging with lines attached, where that did not suit me and will be having a 1/4" aluminum bracket made up. Fabricobbled a ECM plug bolt retainer remover and removed the stripped pig in the Cab Side plug then popped the Engine side so could get into the plug to install blank off plugs as get that far. Bought two scrap plugs just for the pieces. Edit, also replaced the fan belts.
Friday at work was a swamp mess, the clay turns to goo and just squishes into onto everything. The current 963B that was provided. My bolt retainer tools. And back to that same clay pile tomorrow.
Inside the B and my Martyred feeler gauge for backlash The clay on the handling platform has the consistency of badly mashed taters.
Old B has its issues, really 'Loose' where HAVE to use the center pedal when stopped and dumping as will roll on its own, dogbone lower bucket link needs bushing HORRIBLY as does the crowd cylinder, 4-6" of bucket slop and when bounce on anything often lose 1/5 the bucket volume of materials. No AC but not in it long enough to use anyway, does at least have wipers and they work. I will be hacking at the rails at some point this week, just NASTY!!!!
Update on Processor, going to Peoria, cannot 'Wash' it here as ONLY corporate handling that procedure these days. Will be scrubbed of all C12 data then sent back to program C15 and flash for the code and s/n I gave the foreman here. Loosely estimated between a grand and 1200, be gone two weeks.
Ouch!
Detroit is the same way-any reprograming such as a Series 60 has to be ok'ed by Detroit. You can't even buy a data plate for a 855 Cummins over the counter, has to be stamped and installed in house plus engine certified that it is going on.
Strangely, the Fuel Injectors are on their way back ALREADY. Saw the UPS Notification and checked my Visa charges where have been billed for the overhauls of them. Should be arriving today.
And then they were Here!!
Decided to replace at least 12 rocker arms, NOT happy with rollers on them may invest in full reman set. Is a taste further along. Batt Cables ended and ran into box tied down, tanks first sanding completed moving to next dose of W/D 600, wet, injectors are in have to get 2 more intermediate rocker cover short bolts that came up missing, all along working as can SEE on ECM Plug to use the 6NZ unit when finally does come back. Also been chasing electrical gremlins and replaced all the dash bulbs, several switch indicators.
If those rocker rollers are streaked that's pretty common and most are acceptable. Look up a chart on what's a go and not. Use Norton 800 grit with a nap lock 6" pad on a D/A sander then go to 1200. then polish. Or load them up, drive out, and I'll sand polish them for you. I normally start 400, 800 then 1200 sometimes 1500 grit. The paper has holes in it to help stop loading.
Roller acceptance is at borderline on at least half of them, personal choice currently, make me feel more at comfort zone. Used my da to get them that clean, was loads of scars, dings and rock hits those are reduced considerably, moving to 600 next then 1000 or 1200. Need to replace seat in my da trigger, o-ring left!! Will not take all that long to shine them up considerably. I have nothing but time. Not gonna be New pretty but will shine.
I hope to achieve as good a look!!
Oh those tanks will turn out nice!
These are the worst rollers I did not expect. The one exhaust is actually flaking and all six injector rollers show signs of surface pitting If anything will make me feel will last longer.
Those are toast.
If you want to be scared klick on the picture to zoom in! I wouldn't run rollers like that in an old Detroit!
Your wright didnt look to bad before the zoom.
Streaking or lines I could handle, knew these were done. Several others look 'Better' but not good to me so Ta Ta!! Today R&R TRW Gear, resealed the iron block, new filter in reservoir and so far no leakage. Will be a tell all once running. Also took enough shaming and doctored the new head with a rattle can, rest of engine is a gooey mess but will get pressure washed after running. Air Charge cooler is off, gonna need a condenser flushed the dust and grit from inside the cooler, is currently drying.
How did the cam lobes look? I don't remember that far back
Those hump boots KW #HE8716 $33.35.
Polished out easy and slick
Rocker arms are here as are the replacement bolts insulators and boots, tomorrow back at it.
What is on is torqued, and set/ran overhead. Coolant back in, pressure charged oil thru turbo bearings and sealed that line up, pressure fed the main engine gallery at 50PSI, no real volume thru a 1/4" tube but by dripping noise in pan did get the crankshaft lubed up, pushed a full gallon thru engine, half gallon thru turbo. Awaiting return of ECM, completion of engine harness connector revamp and reinstall, have a couple small helicoils to install, need to open up dash once complete in the engine compartment, NO warning lamps or buzzer at all, no low air, low oil pressure, NADA, powered up main harness and did have the Anti Lock solenoids cycle at all three axles. Been a long week, busy as can be and busy yesterday even as did not deliver the dump truck, we both called the day due to weather.
BTW did you change the crank damper? Probably rock solid. Does that have traction control through the antilock brakes?
Not changed the damper. Do Not know of traction control where truck is set up with air shift differential lockers beside the interaxle lock. I suspect not as only one solenoid control per axle, not individual wheel supplies.
PacCar used/Configured the ABS to momentary lock up wheel that spins to transfer torque to opposite wheel. Works well. I changed out damper on my 400 after operating for a awhile. It was in spec but I cut it open and it was solid black mud. Traction control works off of each ABS sensor,
Seems I recall there was a test to determine if a viscous damper was bad. Forget details but it was basically checking temperature of the damper after running. Warm meant it was working, fluid still liquid, cold meant it was solidified. Found an article one line: http://blog.vibratechtvd.com/blog/servicing-a-heavy-duty-engine-damper Here is the part about the temperature test: Place a surface contact temperature gauge on the damper after the engine has been operating through its normal range. A viscous damper removes vibration by transforming it to heat. Therefore the damper should read warmer than the rest of the engine bay. If a viscous damper is cold, it is not functioning.
Thanks, I mic'd it this morning, nothing off normal at four distinct locations.
That's correct but-it can be at point the viscous fluid is starting to harden. Rule of thumb is 500,000 miles and the damper is nearing the end of life. I have a great story about a engine {3406E} over hauled at Cat with OPT warranty. Broke the crank about 80,000 after inframe. Cat had to warranty the crank because it's covered under OPT. I noticed when it was done it had a new damper-they never changed it the first time when it had 780,000 on it.
Even mic'ing doesn't tell you anything the ONLY way to know is to cut it open, Fluid will look like tar.
Rubber internals disintegrated into the fluid, can see that. Will have to see if only available new or if have a reman/exchange program.
Vibratech has a dealer in Missouri, they have new and reman exchange .
Thanks TS
Checked with Cat here first Nada nothing in reman and only New was in Utah $900+ Contacted Vibratech, nothing near me and close to $200 shipping to get one to my door JY sent a text with company in PA, Pittsburg Power so called In stock $620 delivered with spacer if needed Ordered and already shipped. will cut this one open when replace
Received a Fedex, Today Damper is here Got old beast down
This was inside their box, ironic.
Installed 190#
Very good-I'm not surprised the damper was Vibratech. Vibratech bought out/took over that business from the original company{can't remember name} that built most all viscous dampers. French name IIRC. Fan hub looks like Kysor.
Have not looked to tag but also consider it Kysor
Have to note, working even in my little shop where was closed up and a lot cooler than outside the humidity was such my clothes were soaked, hair was dripping, was sweating so bad had to look as a drowned rat!! BTW also installed four 5/16-18 helicoils in valve cover bolt holes, sucked that I missed those as installed the intermediate cover but are in place.
Another old dormant brain cell fired this morning TS could it have been Houdaille? For the vibration dampers.
That's it!---Houdaille-Houdaille was the manufacture. Vibratech bought them out.
Yesterday notified processor was back, still was working up ticket. Was WAY less than estimate at $400 and change, said Peoria was discounting many of the old fee charges and did not charge to copy program requested out of the data bank, strictly labor charges. Picked up tonight.
All your engine work looks great! You gonna be ready to make smoke as soon as computer gets back?
NOT Quite. Still working fuel tanks, then need to arrange the air intake piping and get enough exhaust to clear from under cab corners. Have a shield to make and install for the under floor nylon air lines that had been patched long ago due to that shield being missing got cooked and still need to be replaced/lengthened. Closer but not quite there. BTW picked up the ECM last night just before the shop in CoMO closed, took wife to dinner at the local Cracker Barrel.
Not solid but damn close, managed to pry/push the internal ring that far, more like glue than lubricant and not much of.
So, for curiosities' sake, cut the new one apart so we can compare
I would say I told you so but that's not needed. Glad you changed it after all the hard work you have put into that engine, plus the money.
Glad it is changed as well, do NOT need a broken crank. Smoking hot and humid enough to take wrinkles out of clothes today so set to the engine harness changes. Removed IVA equipment connections, moved associated pins for Injector feeds and returns to 6NZ points which happened to be where CAT set up the IVA system points. then set to figuring out repair for Engine Coolant Sensor wiring. UGLY!! Harness from split for Crankshaft sensor had all fused together, hard as glass for around three feet. Peeled the woven sheath back to loose resilient wire and managed to free Engine Temp leads, will need to replace around two feet of those. The woven sheath was already removed on that hardened section for the photo. Bought two used connectors for the ECM, scavenged out pin blanks for the removed not to be reinstalled pins. .
And before ask, had SIS wiring Schemes for both processor setups engine to engine so could verify scheme numbers and pin connection positions in the ECM Connectors.
I have so many dreams, projects, and chores that I have no time for all of the keep me busy stuff that everyone else in the world seems to embrace. Like pickleball, kayaking, bars, etc. I truly love working on stuff around my place. I think it keeps me young!
I lived on a boat in Matanzas Pass, Florida, near Ft. Myers. Every day, the shrimp fleet would return home, pump out their bilges, and an oil slick flowed out to the Gulf. The Coast Guard base was right next door from my marina, and they never said or did anything. 2004 time frame.
Could laugh but know better, Mississippi Towboats generally at night pump bilges to the banks as are moored off, just beyond the levees where is absorbed in the sand and clay.
This was the Mop Head at ECM end before trim back. All are IVA Associated.
Working on old engine harness is always not fun. Cooked is a good definition.
Yes you start cutting back the crinkly stuff and you just don't know where to stop. I think I'll splice fresh wire on here which ends up being way over there.
Got that lined up where still resilient is where will be solder reconnected and heat shrinked.
Today hung ECM, connected up Cab harness, tied off some more of the KW equipped harnesses, hung that new trans cooler bracket, like the assembly as to sturdier now and somewhat more protected at fitting connections.
My profile picture is from December 6th, 2020. One of my customers had a Mensa Club operator. He'd leave the the machine right on the bank, counterweight swung over the water, and a 3/4 yd bucket half filled with sand. This had a 50ft long reach stick. Initially the whole machine was under water. I got the 911 call right after it went down running. We dragged it up this far with the dozer. Chains started popping when it hit the bank. Used to work on an ocean going tug back in my 20's and early 30's. They sent me to commercial dive school. Still have the dive gear......put it to work that day!! The other operators and truck drivers were snapping pics and posting to their Fakebook and snatch chat accounts!! We didn't figure that out until the world started showing up to see the show. 'How'd you find out about this??' ..........'Ohhh, I saw so and so's Facebook post!!'. We had it out that night. DES (Department of Environmental Services) showed up the next day. All was good because it was out and NO rainbows. Had another excavator go over the side from a barge that was dredging a harbor in NY or CT. I forget what the fines were going to be per day, but you definitely didn't want to paying those. My buddy called me wanting some ideas on how to get it out. I was up in Maine working on the house and skiing. They had a hydraulic power pack onboard a barge. I told him to run some lines down to the track motors and drive it up onto the beach.........problem solved!! Open mouth, insert foot!! "How soon can you be here??!! I'd like you here tonight!! I'll send a helicopter!!" I drove home, gathered my gear and drove down there. Rode the excavator out of the water in the cab so we didn't hit any rocks on the way out..........and made a pretty penny for a few days work. Need more of those jobs!! Had another customer, this spring; lose a loader into a harbor in Maine. Was sitting on the deck with the dog in the morning, sipping coffee and wondering what I wanted to do that day.......then the phone rang. Funny how the word gets out about the mechanic whose a diver!! David......Love what your doing with the truck!! Awesome that your taking the time to post everything!! Thank you for that!! It makes good reading.........and learning!! Keeps the synapses sharp!!LOL
Ordered $500 worth of piping to get past cab corners, will get that hanging to get it started where can get exhaust away from firewall. Later this week will work on tanks and remaining fuel line install. Need to get down to JY's deliver the old Chevy and pick up a few odds and ends for work here. Worked with the divers at the Nuke, same guys dove the Lake Ozark dam and the coal burner cooling water intakes as the Nuke. Hard work heat of summer in a mud wallow as the Missouri River, harder still when needed to set/seal sand gates and entry closure doors at the intake in January in near freezing water. Tough lot. Was a guy we bought the trailer from at the Salem MO farm, ran dive service on Mississippi river, got to watch him work clearing the River Intakes to STL water supply at Chain of Rocks, guy was NUTS!!! Small safety bottle where attached to a feed line and safety ropes, worked a fire hose inside the stopped up pipes to break a sand block explained to crew when line went tight pull him back as sand plug was out!!! Like dragging a 200 pound Channel Cat back out of a nest hole was a comment I Heard! The 'Castles' are still on the river at Chain of Rocks where at one time were manned for valve operations.
This is MO River in normal high water off the Intake structure rear veranda Water is around 16 feet deep at channel run, close to 20 at intake inlets.
About 10-12 years ago my swimming pool got a leak. Fought with it for about a month replacing this gasket, that gasket, another fitting. Didn't really attack it in an orderly manner. At the time, I was working in Boston on the Big Dig as an Engineer/ Surveyor ( I R college-mehcated). All my dive gear had been put away never to see the light of day again. My wife had my helmet in the corner of the claw foot bath tub as a bathroom ornament. Finally had enough, pulled the helmet out of the bathroom, grabbed a tank out of barn (hoping there was still enough O2 in there and it hadn't been all depleted from rust). First dip under the water the helmet started flooding out. The drain valve had disintegrated from ozone and UV. Turned the defog air on and made the helmet a positive pressure helmet. That kept the water out as long as I didn't go upside down. Found a tear in the liner and went down to the pool store (for the umpteenth time) to find out how to patch the tear in the liner underwater. They were very familiar with my plight at this point. They asked how I found my leak. As I was mentioning that I put the dive gear on and dove the pool, I realized I was in trouble when their eyes went the size of dish plates. "Do you know what your doing??" I figured they meant diving. "Well..........I haven't killed myself yet!!" Since then, and thousands of dollars worth of leak detection and some pipe cameras.......a hobby business was born, that has now turned into a full time problem during the summer months. Hhhhmmm, fix equipment or get paid to swim in a pool?? Today is supposed to be 90F........I'll go swimming!!! LOL Of course it depends on if a customer is down. If its just routine 'change-ahh dah oil, check dah light bulbs' I'll go swimming. Know what's really hard about working underwater?? NO GRAVITY!!LOL Just think about how much fun turning that torque wrench would be if you weren't pressed to that concrete floor with you weight being pulled by gravity!! And a diver is just someone who works underwater.........diver=underwater laborer, underwater welder, underwater mechanic, etc. I'll let the young bucks play with fire hose underwater. Unless, of course; their not getting it done. Here, let the old man show you how its done!! Worked on a swimming pool at a country club 2 1/2hrs away a few weeks ago. We loaded up the Freightliner with just about everything we could think of, except the surface supplied gear. We just used SCUBA the first day. Burned through 4 bottles (thats all we brought!!) the first day. Job was a little more complicated than we thought.........way more complicated. 2nd trip up was all surface supplied with comms between 2 divers and surface.LOL Freightliner with crane, welder, etc showing up with all that crap to fix your pool!! My hobby business! I showed my wife pictures of your 'camper hauler' and the other pics of camper haulers that have been posted. I told her I'm gonna start looking for a project tractor to tow the camper and we could put a mini cooper on the back of the tractor. She said I needed to get rid of some trucks out back first!! (Peterbilt w/ Maintainer body, Freighliner with summit body, and a 2000 International w/ utility body). She said the tractor needs to have a bathroom in it!! How much do you think you have into it at this point?? Just curious... The tranny cooler you mounted behind the steps.....does that have fans on it?? Just curious about air flow with it mounted behind the steps. Maybe a thermostat to turn the fans on and off?? (Synapses clicking and firing)
No fans, just a passive exchanger, know have in excess of $25k in so far.
We are the electricians, often we work with a pool guy who's phobic of water. I'm getting old, convinced very cold water will stop my heart. Seth gets the honor too often of diving. It's never deep, 5' is unusual, but most often freshly drawn from a springtime brook. Friday it was COLD & shocked with some horrid cocktail of chemicals. He volunteered to go in.
i'd BET.......with todays market for vehicles being what it is.......you 'could' sell it for north of $100k when your done. Not that you'd do that or that's why your doing it. I wish you and I were closer to each other. I'd come help!!
Last year I got called to a pool that had just been filled with 'tanker' water. It was SMOKING HOT that day. High 90's. I walked up to check out the pool and the 'Tanker' driver said 'I hope you brought your dry suit!!' I asked if he was kidding........he said the water came out of the well at 36F. I stuck my foot in the water........it HURT it was that cold. I always have my drysuit. Lots of stories of cold water and ice. Not my favorite.......but its critical to have the correct gear. The orange suit I have on with the excavator I bought a few years after starting the pools. My old suit was worn out and Viking drysuits said it couldn't be repaired any more. Ended up buying a Whites drysuit HAZMAT suit. That was $3k. My wife just about had kittens when i finally told her how much 'the suit to go in swimming pools' cost.........ya know, for the hobby business!!LOL My response was probably brusque, but I asked her who is the one going in the water?? Me or you?? Who is the one who has been diving since they were 13?? No substitute for being comfortable. Working on the tugs and barges, sometimes sent pieces back up to be modified. They'd call down and ask if I was coming out while they modded it...........No thanks!! I'll just stay here and nap. I'd either press myself under or barge or settle to the bottom (if it was shallow enough) and snuggle in.
Can remember when guy I worked with on Tows on Alton Pool had his sons dive salvage work. I ended up rebuilding a 2/71 aux engine and a 4/53 generator that lay on the bottom for over a month on a overturned barge. They also retrieved a old American dragline but it was too far gone before entered the water so was scrapped. Boys dove winter or summer, said summer was worst as water was warm as bath water and tended to make them sweat profusely in dry suits. One offered to let me try a dry suit and hard helmet, I declined as had no need to feel around where I could not see to work.
Diving in a drysuit in the summer is the worst feeling sometimes!! LOL You come out of the water, open the suit up, your shirt is soaked, rivulets of water pouring down the suit and your trying to figure out if the suit has a leak you don't know about or if its really just sweat!! The pic of me in the water in front of the yellow submersible excavator.......I couldn't see an inch in front of my face. The lights started blinking morse code and I realized I needed to turn off the master switch. I was feeling around inside the doors.........I was pretty sure it lived on the cab side of the machine. Feeling around with numb fingers wasn't fun. Searched both sides of the machine before I remembered I needed to open the door, with hidden latch, just behind the operators cab. This customer had dragline operators digging the sand for him. One guy was 80 and was looking to sell his Lima dragline. So you saw the result of one of the mensa club operators......I had a really hard time explaining that running a dragline required a touch and eye and a whole bunch of talent.....and he DIDN'T HAVE THAT WITH HIS GUYS!! Plus trying to find parts for an old crane that was from the 50's. My family owned a pile driving business. I grew up around crawler cranes. My brother and I scrubbed out boiler tubes, painted booms and cabs, and greased for summer vacations in grade school and high school. We were very lucky to have those experiences and education. My grandfather taught me how to run a clam shell bucket when I was 14 or 16. I was also told that I was going to college for engineering so I could run the company......so I'm a civil engineer who went back to his roots of turning wrenches. In my early 20's I ended getting flown to Gitmo Cuba to run a clam shell crane on a bulk carrier to unload sand, stone, and cement. The navy had brand new International 10 wheelers, all wheel drive, with mitsibushi engines. They had CRUSHED about a dozen of those trucks. The original plan had been to unload the material onto the pier. Someone did the calcs after the ship arrived.........pier wouldn't handle it. Just unload into the trucks!! I had 4 hours notice to pack my bags and get a plane. Couldn't understand why or how I got grabbed until I landed in Gitmo. I realize now how very, very fortunate I am to have all of these life experiences and how patient and saintly my grandfather, uncles, and father must have been!!LOL We keep getting off topic from your truck!! Is it done yet??!!LOL
Not quite!
Air Charge cooler back in place, AC Condenser bought it, ripped the threads off one stub, found one online $100(New) at Pit Stop Auto and ordered, may be getting what paid for but fittings should have threads. Managed to test fit SOME of the exhaust to start the order list for Flex. Finished routing the new AC Hoses, Drier is still off and capped, will await Condenser to hang that. Had to replace wife on mower, looked as if on deaths door too hot and only did the basic front yard. Finished that up went to store with her and then sat down to relax before tomorrow.
This is Next. Air line correction then shield produce and reinstall. They ALL Need to tuck up against floor on other side of Cab structure cross member. Bracket in background is where the shield is to hang from.
Torca 5" Easy Seal exhaust clamps. The preformed ones leak.
Is what I ordered, thanks
Turned the above snarl o'**** to this, almost to point to install exhaust under cab. have a few clamps tp buy for hoses and bundles. Condenser arrived it is hung as well, need vac pump oil to change that out and a ref oil charge can prior to charging the system otherwise all closed up and new drier on it.
What shape are the heim joints on the clutch linkage? Most are froze up if anti-seize wasn't used on the joints-especially the free play adjuster rod from bell crank to clutch shaft arm. That really pi$$es me off when those are installed with no anti seize. If those freeze even with heat 90% of the time it's a done deal-Kenworth loves selling those complete adjuster assembly's $150.00.
All free but the lower two like to roll sideways, rod appears slightly bent and side loads them, have been lubed as sitting there.
Did order the second stack upper bracket that was not in the mass of stuff, the bolt for the slide bracket about floored me but I am going back with duals AND Mufflers.
Today was a Exhausting day!!, Actually have dump points Outside the cab now, temporary but out from under. Fuel tanks Next up and will install a secondary heat shield for second set of air tubing, be a little more extensive than the first. So much for Torca clamps, got substituted with prefits as Torca is currently NA locally or thru the suppliers I have called. These will do, for now.
Now becomes a point in time for a trip to OK and swap the Chevy for the Deutsch plug kit and a few battery cores. Fuel tanks will be on and some fuel available to fill and prime the system, will then pull the ECM fuse, spin the engine and verify upper end oils up, then can get it running. LF Drive brake is frozen ON, so no test drives or even driveway run until is running, air system fills and can get after brakes.
How much they nail you for the T-pipe? Chrome elbows?
$200 for the T yet to buy the Els and remaining parts but the were over 150 ea for the Els
Must have done something to Anger the Air Gods!! Decided to look into why the Right Air tank would never air, added a T at the drier inlet and attempted to air the system, got 75# MOL into L Tank before the exhaust was leaking and off timing purging, NEVER ONCE got air into R Tank. Did a little digging, drier is trashed, corroded so badly cannot get inserts to come out. Ordered a suspected Chinese Knockoff AD-IS as best Price for rebuild kit over $250, best price for New Bendix AD-IS is close to $600, less air tank the knockoff is $150. Did pull a vacuum on the AC System, set a three ounce oil charge to it with a partial charge that will get removed to aid in drying down the system when Do go to recharge it. Diagnostics tooling, one shut off will remain to feed a Glad Hand inside the Tool Box or maybe hang it Straight Down with a Dead Dummy cover on it May just pull it all back off. Would have done more today but today was mowing time.
Wish you had posted something-I have a good used AD-IS dryer tank mount. Actually three to be exact. Purge valve complete usually $95. Cartridge TRP AC1001 $24. The late dryers take a AC1001C $59 different threads-- because of the lighter engine oils internals had to be changed to trap oil.
Is all good TS, Should have the knockoff in three days. Hate to pester guys on here for what I can buy.
I know but had to offer.
Thank you!!
Well this was a impressive quick ship, From Spokane. Appearances are good, So Far. Have no clue if a Bendix cartridge will spin on this or will have to find a correct fit when that time comes.
One note about the dryer you have above-Those off brands use a really cheap dryer cartridge, those have been known to start pushing the desiccant powder out into the purge valve causing issues. The PacCar TRP Kenworth cartridge number is AC1001. Just my two cents but I would spin another cartridge on it plus use some anti-seize on the threads. It's a CNC machined piece with aluminum threads. The steel threads on the cartridge will and or can corrode-possibly ruining the dryer.
Thanks TS
Got air drier swapped Thursday, charged both tanks as expected but the compressor unloader seals decided to leakby, and backflow to drier thru the D2, unhooked and blocked at compressor was fine as to drier set point. Cat/Bendix one cylinder, will order kit for it. One more heat shield then back to fuel tanks, if gets too smoking hot again will fall back to electrical diagnosis. All my needed supplies have arrived for now.
And then to make matter ever more better, got a series of small but audible air leaks fixed, found source of loss of warnings was corrosion at fuses where a little CRC cleaner does wonders. Then aired up to search more leakage and crap hit the fan, compressor head to body leaking. Bendix one lunger.
Last compressor I needed, I think was not readily available. (backordered) I ended up at the junkyard and its still merrily pumping away.
Will have to do some deep searching on this. Engine was noted as gone nuclear hot, compressor is above the head gasket line and would have coolant starved too. May wait until after first start, may have to.
You're this far, a compressor isn't the end of the world. If that's the only problem you have left, you'll be doing great.
Eng harness repair to the temp switch side and misc damaged connectors replaced is now hanging Not connected to ecm nor primary timing sensor as will need one or the other loose for Timing Calibration with a ET device that JY said would help with when get ready to start this puppy. Still working on intake tubing and fuel tanks for now. End of new harness is where temp sensor is buried. Have a number of zip ties to add but plenty warm here and giving up for today.
Haldex has a bunch of compressors in DC at k city.
This one is a Bendix, BA921. Will check with MHC KW Monday, Wheeler Fleet has reman exch free shipping for $483.xx. So far MHC has been proud of KW Parts but beat the crap out of everyone else on CAT and aftermarket. Option, VanderHaags has a used for $250 and a reman for $404.xx Uncertain if shipping included.
Today was a SMOKER, humidity went to the moon as T-storms N and S of us with us in a humid center trough. Did get the tanks further, starting to show Shine again, will be scarred up but will be shiny, this is L side. Have to work Outside, keep the mess down for one and no room the other. As well NO Shade. Will be building a X frame like a crossbuck for the final work stand.
Been thunderstormy on and off here. Been watching some of the storm stuff from louisiana. They're getting hit with wind and rain pretty good. Going to see the big train? My wife met the daughter in st. louis today to see it on display.
Took tomorrow OFF, one to see the 4014 HERE in Hermann and two for a Doc visit. R Shoulder has decided to go rogue as well L Knee. Will be there Rian or Shine.
Jealous! Take/post lots of pics. Good luck at doc
Am hoping to at least get referral to a specialist to get some sort of look inside on shoulder. Is getting really bad where side pressure shifting is seriously painful.
That is rough Miller, I hope they get you some relief.
Rotator cuff? I had my second surgery for that on June 1st. First time was 10 years before. This time the healing and PT seems to be taking a lot longer. Could be something to due with being 71 years old and not being as active the last couple years. Good luck!
Thanks, as a safe bet took the trailer load of scraps from the KW to the salvage yard this morning, $200t for Tins, copper and aluminum by the pound, $269 worth, that and got use of my trailer back. On a sad note the yard owner was lamenting his driver retired last week, one to two loads a day are not leaving, uncertain how will get the now filling yard of scrap hauled away.
Well, you’re retired, can’t you drive for him when you’re not hauling aggregate? (I’d do something goofy like that ) That’s how my last job went: Went in looking for part-time and only day each week I wasn’t driving was the day I helped wife w grandkids.
LOL!! But NO!!
Barb the NP is going to start with X-ray then get a MRI, pretty certain have a spur chewing on Rot. Cuff.
Well hope it's something simple but as you are still more active than I have been the last couple years the healing if you need surgery should go a bit faster than mine has been. Even with the time I've been needing PT I always get a kick when they do things like some of the range of motion measurements like to day. One was where they told me to raise my arm straight out to the side and up as far as I can. When I hit my head on the side and had to tilt it out of the way the PT lady just laughed, don't need to measure that. They also have cut out a few exercises because I was doing so good. But there are still some that are giving me some trouble but each week seem to be improving!
Periodically, I get back pain. Usually it is after some horrible contortion in a crawl space, or under a tractor. Mine is severe, and might last two months or more. Doctor said: "get a new mattress" ME: "I did" Doctor: "Learn to live with it." After a severe bout of back pain I went to him. He sent me for "therapy". I stood on one foot, threw a ball through a hole. Rode a bicycle laying down, did lots of exercises with rubber bands around my ankles. Then they get out the cattle prods! They hooked me up to electricity. Now, I've had more than my share of electric shock, always because of my own carelessness. Never been burned until then. Fourth round of shock therapy I got a whopper of a burn! 1" diameter & maybe 3/8" deep. Healing took months! It made me forget my back pain! It'll have to be pretty severe before I go back there again.
wow. you guys need to stay away from doctors
WillieB, your Doc and mine must have gone to the same school, My back pain literally never leaves, been told suck it up as cannot help there.
He's several years younger than me, 6' tall, weighs about 160. He works out every day, never had a cigarette, drink, or food not organic. Lives on tree bark & birdseed. He seems to feel anyone who isn't just like him doesn't deserve to complain.
I have had on and off back pain for a couple years involving pulled lower back muscles. It usually occurred after lifting something heavy and/or twisting at the same time. Went for x-rays and poking & prodding. I got onto some simple stretches and excercises for about 5 minutes every day and it has made a huge difference. I still pull my lower back muscles occassionally, but now i recover in a day or two instead of a couple weeks. I guess it makes sense. As we get older we are not as limber as we used to be
Willie I swear we have the Same doc First comments from mine were if food in a bag box or can throw it out, minimize red meat and meat in general, he is 6’4” and MAYBE 170# But talk about the trophy Wife WOWSA!
Can work more with these On Truck as got them this far. Not done but done enough for back and bottom sides to go back in place.
MHC called me back, STILL Best pricing, Genuine Bendix Reman, $405 in my hands, only concern but not one is time to get from warehouse as have no indicators if have in inventory.
The catch word these days {inventory}. Funny-I have a compressor to rebuild for a friend-{inventory, cost and shipping are his problem}. Cummins SS296 all parts are available for about $200 including shipping, just the core charge is $350 on a reman.
Got tanks full on, got out what could flush and added to about a 1/4 tank. Tried to prime system primer got rock hard full out so the damn check valves are stuck, will order those parts monday. Then got a wild hair, cranked until over head oiled, then plugged everything back in. IT IS ALIVE!!!! Alive Again - YouTube Air in fuel system, check valve somewhere stuck, primer was locked up Full Out so gonna order LOTS of small stuff, Again!! Even at Too Low Idle 12# oil pressure, rev it up at all and dies.
Got lucky Pulled up P/Ns on SIS Called MHC, parts man I deal with WAS there, should have fuel system pieces Thursday Still no word on compressor
You can call for parts people on Labor Day weekend, man I’m jealous. Be lucky if the grocery store is opened out here.
MHC PACCAR, HUGE Dealership serving a LOT of states!! Murphy Hoffman Company. Has Saturday hours locally in CoMO. MHC Kenworth, Truck Leasing & Carrier Transicold Locations
Unhappy days Got check valves and primer on, restarted, 650rpm and only 12# oil pressure 1500 and only 20# Stopped for a few days let the anger die back, set my pressure tank up dropped pan and at 40# discharge get this with nearly no oil to head. Next up drop all the extremities Plastigage this as this is unacceptable.
Is dripping down for remainder of today
Plastigage been done, according to a Guru on these , .0024-.0063 is within spec, I gaged two rods at around .005. So with that am back down to a bad Reman Pump.
Bought the damned pump in January, OH Kit took forever to get here then other problems arose and just now got to Run stage, makes me worry there is NO warranty for the pump. Will speak to Service as well Parts as to ability to Test this one or if will just exchange, and at what cost.
I don't know-Years ago I pulled cat and cummins oil pumps apart to clean and check-IIRC I only replaced three on cat and maybe five or six on cummins. On cummins I usually replaced pressure relief spring was all. My fear was a pump sucking air.
Pump shows no signs of any relief issues, spring intact and fasteners tight, this style is as simple as it gets where only consideration is too much clearance and unable to deliver volume due to bypassing. I won't open it up and look, that will be on Cat. No cracks or indications on the suction tube, were True Cat orings on the tubes not IPD as bought them when bought the pump Was some leakback thru pickup screen when pressurized the oil gallery. No cracks can see at all.
Sure there is no galley plug missing on head-possibly, I can't remember the oil jacket in head.
Only position that cannot leak to outside is under the Rocker Shafts, those are all in. Also no oil flowing across head anywhere in any volume to drain holes.
I could be way off here but did you disassemble the oil cooler bundle from filter housing to block? IIRC there is a oil pressure relief valve built into the filter housing. I know the B's had it not sure on the E model my manual is at work. Wild shot.
Hope the solution is simple.
Had nothing of the cooler bundle off had been explained no reliefs there is in the filter head and just bypasses the filter. So a passing thought last evening, will block the oil pump to gallery port and return the other rod cap to position then drain the oil pan and reposition recharge the lube tank and have the wife turn it on where I can watch 1st oil pressure gauge then on the head to see if can tell if any leakage at drainbacks or under from front cover area. If pressure remains low regardless I know is no recourse to pulling main block and stripping everything as is something popped, pressure comes up to tank pressure then moot to look elsewhere and bad pump.
Should probably have jerked the rest of the block early on and resealed everything cleaned everything anyway.
Had wife sitting in cab just now Installed #6 rod cap and blocking gasket/plate Charged prelube tank to sixty# opened valve and no delivery at head parts, wife said needle bounced when opened valve then nothing Took about 20 seconds to run a full gallon into it. I will proceed to tear this beast apart and find what is bad Block I am full aware now has to come fully out. Not a good day/month/wasted a year. Not in a very good mood.
In my 3406E manual 1997 5EK1-up, 6TS1-up page 17 oil filter base image 86260P1 it shows bypass valve for oil cooler and bypass valve for filter. Port covers are on the back side to block.
man, i feel for ya. why was this engine apart when you got the truck in the first place? if you said, i don't remember. piston cooling nozzles are correct?
Coolant leak, got hot, busted head
With crank plastigaged correct, the only other areas that could loose major pressure would be adjustable idler gear, fixed idler stub, cluster idler gear in front structure. And you said piston coolers were ok. Then it would have to be in passage to head or head it's self, I doubt compressor feed, but.
The oil pump on these has enough volume to still have good pressure with one main bearing completely removed according to Cat engineers. There are 2 different relief valves for oil pump. One is 60 psi the other is 90 psi . The latter is for 2 piece piston engines and double spray jets. I would be looking at the cooler area bypasses first. If this engine was overheated all those big fat o rings will need to be replaced anyway or you will have leaks there. Are you sure that jobber pump relief is ok?
Came from Cat and relief is fully seated, no evidence of oil been thru it as back side of plunger being visible thru spring was not oil coated or even wetted. Was just at max flow and not keeping up.
Coolant out, pan out of the way, pulled air compressor as have a replacement anyway and the visible gearing only slightly oiled in front end. Nearly everything on L side is off or disconnected, exhaust from turbo to the second flex is out, have misc **** on top to drag off then bring up farm tractor/forklift and pull radiator, While that is out may have core replaced or get one myself do it here as most of the lower cross fins are crumbling from Salt Cancer. Not certain if will pull intact or pull head first but at this point the damned engine IS COMING OUT. I will strip it to Buckets and sleeves, MAY leave crank in but will invert it and plastigage at least three Mains. Front Structure is ALL coming off, will go back together Methodically as will Bellhousing. Will get new clutch and will inspect input shaft and all those pieces, have to find a Trans jack now to drop trans out, do have a bad Dr Line support bearing to change anyway.
Sorry Dave that sucks man.
Chance taken just did not pan.
That may be but---You deserve a break in my book.
Be a break when all done
That picture showing the oil leaking with the pan off does not seem to show any one spot that is much more than any other place. Don't take this wrong but have you checked to see if the gauge you were getting the low readings on was accurate? Was it an electrical gauge on the dash or a straight mechanical gauge? Just thinking getting a second opinion from another gauge would be worth doing. Not sure if you have access to SIS but if anything there would help I do all I would need was the full serial number or part number of any parts in question, like the pump.
Here is what SIS shows for the mains and rods:
Fits what was explained
The guy I dealt with for parts deals with a great deal of these, was as confused as I to the free flow below and nada on top, then it struck us both as to the 'Detritus' that was on the upper deck when I received the machine. Is a great possibility of debris in the galleries NOT on the main gallery. that run to the head, and that would include the Gauge line point. Rat Turds, sticks rats nest pieces, bugs, just dirt. And this was AFTER I removed the mass of Nest fodder that was on it.
Been all over it, in SIS as well Gauge is a straight mechanical and tests within a few pounds of applied best can tell as reads 10# increments. Not chancing cooking anything at this point, truck is not licensed yet or a production machine, can await digging on it.
That stinks DMiller. I thought you were over the hill, and on the downhill slope to getting it on the road.
Just slipping a bit It will still get there, the subsystems are pretty well ready, just back to engine
Sorry to hear about your setback @DMiller . I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. I've been living vicariously through your thread as I would love my own KW someday, but I can't justify it yet. I started my own project truck of sorts - 1997 F-350 chassis cab, 12 ft stake bed, 7.3L Powerstroke. Engine/trans are runners, but she needs a fair bit of tlc to make it right.
Well to add insult to injury, had a MRI of Rt Shoulder yesterday, results in today, Partial Tear Bicep Long Header tendon and partial tear posterior Labral tendon, to go along with "Degenerating Joint conditions" or Uncle Arthr. Referral been sent to Ortho Surgeon Department and I am supposed to hear from them to schedule a consult. Labrum MOSTLY Intact, Rotator Cuff Intact, so I managed to damage something other!!
I can't follow my own health advise so I won't advise.
I've had the same issue on the left shoulder for some years now. The saw bones told me that as long as I can lift my arm above my head to just live with it. There is no real cure and the surgery and recovery is far worse than what I have now. He told me a minimum of six months of constant ache plus the physical therapy. I had to trust him as he was the only doctor who said don't do the surgery. The two quacks that I saw first said six weeks of physical therapy and then surgery and they wouldn't talk about recovery time. Keep a clear head and make them justify their recommendations. There is no use making a down payment on their next luxury car and not have some kind of assurance of getting better.
I still think I would prefer surgery honestly. Today I was putting a stereo in my WS, so in the headliner. Just crimping together the wires I had to stop because my shoulder hurt too bad and I couldn't hold my hand up there any longer, and it's been aching for the rest of the day. No doc can figure out what it is, but once it's above shoulder height something is right messed up because below shoulder height it's not too bad. So I feel your pain, I swear the shoulder has to be one of the worst things to be messed up.
Been dealing with it over weeks, closer to months already as tend to ignore most little aggravations, am at the point of discomfort yet adjusted to compensate so can manage a day of climbing in and out of cab, shifting, reaches for paperwork or controls. Will see the ortho and listen but will likely pass the next couple months carrying this babying this until after first of 2022. Decision as to becoming fully retired then. May be the omen hint I need to slow down. Still working on ways to get better sleep. Never could sleep on back am a side sleeper, lay on L side have a hiatal hernia that causes Gerd even taking antacids before bed or SI joint flares so roll on stomach, back and SI joint go to aching more so roll to R side, sleep OK until pressure on shoulder wakes me back up, then back to L side. Vicious cycle 4-6 hours total in bed maybe 3 or four hours of any real sleep.
That is NOT good for your health! See a doctor about sleep. There's stuff they can do.
Getting old sucks, IMO.
My dad has been telling me that for years now.
The only alternative is worse.
Reason most people as they get older cause most injuries is lack of stretching before exerting in what seems like menial tasks everyday. Take about a hour in the mornings and stretch out some and see how well things works out, we get less limber as time goes on but stretching will help. What abuse we do to our bodies in our younger years will catch up is what most don't see and we aren't just talking physical it's also in what we ate drank or smoked over the decades will come knocking.
Dare say I believe found a answer to a great deal of questions. One, why rods 1&6 appeared starved, Two, why rocker rollers appeared starved, Three Low Oil Pressure on start with reman pump. It all fits now. Dragged oil cooler bundle and oil filter head assemblies off the block, the Cooler Bundle was draining OLD Black oil from the rear port(Drain Side), the poppet and seat in the filter head are damaged from chattering. And a Special Treat, a Heat Tell Tale I was unaware of on the Filter base until chipping cooked on goo off. Will need to replace base and poppets, perhaps springs too, then the bundle.
Have to thank TS for his insight to check the poppets, and the CoMo Cat dealer shop foreman that reiterated same concern.
I get lucky once in a while-it was strictly a wild guess and extended long shot DM.
Not a truer statement ever made.
WAG's are a good thing!
I know it's easy to spend other peoples money, did it for 45 years at the quarry, but I would not even be tempted to reuse those springs. Just glad to see you found something that seems obvious as to the problem you had.
Made a preliminary parts order thru the KW Dealer again. Parts guys do not know what to make of my orders, generally have numbers and alternate paths for components lined up, they do not have to do much footwork. Filter base one of three ways, Full assembly, Subgroup assembly with all the small parts but reuse head to engine block adaptor, and blank head with two poppets two springs. The eight rod bolts I had removed, several small pieces I was looking into and priced Cooler bundles as to Cat Price, WAY out of my ballpark so did a Net search by p/n, have 'New' one ordered thru a NY Dealer $535 Shipped or 1/3 the price of Cat New and $300 less than Reman.
Filter head assembly arrived today, new relief valve Poppets and springs with Rod bolts yesterday. Old vs New When installed into housing were a good 1/16-1/8" taller than removed.
We had a lot of trouble with wear in the oil pump relief/filter bypass valve seats (circled red) in the oil filter base assembly on C13 engines in 349D excavators, and of course the C13 is a derivative of the 3406. It got to the stage where we were replacing the complete assembly at engine midlife in order to maintain oil pressure.
Wanted a loaded preassembled sub section for this one, Not in inventory but the bare bones housing was. Am satisfied. What I do not get is the housing is Aluminum, wear points will take a beating. Also Made In CHINA!!
Yup-but it will take many hours.
We couldn’t understand that either.
The valves are EGP I understand that but allowing a spring to drive that resilient material into a aluminum seat is stupid, would have been easy enough to add SS seats for the valve poppets to seat up to and not require replacement of the head in total every time seat damage occurred. Where it hangs and what it supports the entire assembly in cast steel would be a better choice regardless.
But it's made in China! That should be its own explanation.
May have to fire my parts cleaner as does not perform so well these days!! Ready for bundle as gets here.
Lots of stuff uses aluminum nowadays to save weight at the expense of durability. Good old cast iron was heavy but lasted a long time. Look how light engine blocks are now for the high hp they get out of them which leads to durability issues. ie torisional twisting and liner counterbore issues on some engines in high-torque applications. If the blocks were heavier and larger water jackets around the liners i feel we would have fewer problems and engines would last longer. Engines run hotter to decrease emissions which causes the entire cooling system to work harder as well as oil coolers, etc. There has to be high oil flow for max piston cooling and load carrying in the rotating assemblies. And now we're talking low viscosity engine oils. All this adds up. Plus, aluminum is cheaper and easier to use in manufacturing than cast iron. Just living in the modern world
Cheaper and easier is what they like in China!
Air compressor back on P/s pump to block oring changed Reattaching all manner of stuff took apart figuring on pulling engine Next up bottom end rod bolts on 3&6 Oil pump and structure Pan Pull drain plug flush off top deck of head. Meanwhile had to make a Orschelns store run found a bargain T4 rotella 15-40 $14 a gal in 2.4 gal jugs Bought all they had
Rod bolts swapped and torqued, oil pump and piping with reinforcement tray back up, pan back on down to ONE bolt, managed to lose ONE spacer and had one thread pull in the R Rr corner to rear structure will have to coil. Intake boot Els to turbo on, harness reconnects in progress and coolant hoses all reattached save the connections at oil cooler No bundle as yet. Getting some small crap out of the way so done as cooler gets replaced. Block heater element is shorted, cord is trashed at element. Small parts order at KW in morning.
Parts ordered be in Wed, cooler bundle arrived as did trans jack today. Is a CTP core likely from BesGuesistan or a little known Chinese iron peddler but appears correct sizes to install. Jack is a OTC, pricing was close enough for off brand names to warrant a name brand and no it is yet still boxed up. Tried to beg borrow or buy a used one, nothing even closely resembling usable and still wanted big coin. Sold a old ratchet style Many Moons ago and was glad the death trap left. This was bought in case needed remove the entire engine. Can utilize it more now than just that. And I have LONG Since graduated from do it rough and dangerous style, this is more sensible to me nowadays.
Is a new block heater element in the left housing, all is tight just need to finish tyiying up loose ends.
Time to take a hot water pressure washer to that engine to compliment the new parts.
Have to get it outside for that!! Do not have a Hotsy here so will end up taking to local car wash when drivable. LF Drive brake has been frozen Applied since arrived, once engine is up and viable then on to brakes. Have to pick my battles strategically currently.
What did the sealing material look like for the cooling tubes in that oil cooler bundle? If it was soft and disintegrating it was bound to start leaking internally? Age really gets to those. Same as my trans jack-you will be glad you spent the money. Best jack there is. Plus way safer to use.
Appeared as copper solder in place
The sealer is around the outer diameter of bundle, if it was gone it was toast. The tubes are soldered.
Have not gotten that far on old one, was just trying to get residual oil out so can deal with it.
Views of old cooler Some Trash and shifted corruption cannot see seals damage
In the first photo you can see where the bundle is sealed by rubber to the outer housing, there is a large void of rubber seal at the bottom, plus the rubber is recessed all the way around. It was going south.
Well I am sick now All back together started it up 10# idle and 25 at 1400 Nothing externally leaking Nothing could see as to internal leakage to this level just at a pause loss. Will have to walk away awhile before I set it afire.
DAMMIT!
Will call Fabick Monday, will emphasize on Oil Pump this time, would have to be a 1/2" hole for it to not make better pressure.
I was really hoping. On Cat I have reinstalled I don't know how many oil pumps with a million plus miles, and still run spec on psi. You haven't much left pump or front bushings.
Cannot even see gear train bushings being that bad. Would damn near to be falling out. Engine does have over 650k per the old ECM and being abused during that time, overheat, coolant losing cracked head. Tomorrow, pan back down, will pull p/u tube first, have inspected it so many times so far, one more time, then pump is coming down and back to CAT.
If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. It takes a man of your skill and determination to set it right.
Like I said before-I had a b model that was running on half oil psi-Bull gear sawed it's way through front cover. customer wanted to run it.
Had no issues could see in the front cover, had to set backlash pulled adjustable idler no issues there, did not feel any play in next gear, swapped compressors again nothing to note as to gear train.
May have to drag radiator out and open it up.
The only other thing I can think of is there's a galley plug left out of that head or pump.
No plugs left out No oil flowing on head deck and no leaks outside, pump has no holes beyond suction and discharge pipes. Head just before swing over Only two external oil gallery plugs where would pour outside, three allen plugs in Shaft slots.
I've gone over my manual on it there not a lot of choices left.
Did not think so Pan comes off regardless will need it down as get to front cover.
You're going to be annoyed with yourself when you find it. You'll think, "Why didn't I think of this sooner?"
You could use a borescope to find the leak when using your oil tank. I bought a cheap one from amazon that hooks up to a laptop or phone. You can record the video. Mount it inside the engine and try to see the leak before it gets covered in oil. You can slow down or stop the video to see the leak. . Good luck Randy
Down to minimal possibles at this point, pump or gear train bushings, and still gonna reinspect damned PU tube, have not found any indications of a crack or leak spot so far but could have missed anything slight.
Pan down, everything fighting me today. couple of indications but nothing for a suction break
Screen absolutely clear Not one hint to cracks
P/N on tube same as in SIS 109-6547
On a 855 with cast aluminum pan and external suction line those only needed a pin hole to aerate the oil enough it caused the jakes to not function correctly and would drop psi 10 to 15.
Not even seeing a pin hole, dings dimples and such no holes
Pump turns free enough can spin it and take close to a minute to stop.
Close to a minute to stop??
Yes, free spins like NO Guts in it save seeing the shaft ends turn. ZERO Resistance.
That can't be right. A new/rebuilt pump should surely need a wrench to turn it once it has had oil through it for the first time.
Just read this-gears loose on shaft? ***.
This is so loose it does not even make noise like a pump while spinning. Walked to my shop and made this just now. It isn't a minute, but responds as no guts. And yes, spun it up ONE Finger not holding housing.
wow seeing is believing
What the hell man! Is anything easy anymore? Didn’t you replace the pump?
Quality control on that pimp for sure.
Is a Cat Reman bought in January, has about 25 minutes +/- run time on it, never made more than 25psi. Just waiting for Tuesday as have day off to discuss shoulder with Doc(surgeon), then going to Fabick where was bought. Warranty will be in doubt. Calling them tomorrow.
Watching the video at the very last second it looks like the bolt head stops for a split second. Which tells me either the key broke or there was never one installed.
I had a C15 head that seized the cam after 60 seconds run time a few years back. Cam turned fine when I installed it but didn't have enough oil clearance on front bearing. Cat covered it and finally admitted there was a problem with swelling the bearings on installation.
pump came no gear, key in bag I installed torqued to spec.
Well then the only item would be gear to shaft I would think. The drive gear and idler gear are roughly 3.5 inches long. I guess be glad it's a brake saver pump.
Jpaydirt on YouTube had problems with his n14 oil pressure, his reman oil pump was one of his problems
We lost a 525 N14 in 2006 due to oil pump failure, original pump had 250K on it. It's gotten to the point of a person could have more trust in one from a junkyard.
It is normal for them to spin fairly easy unlike a hydraulic gear pump that would need a wrench on to turn but that seems way too easy! Pull the back cover off and look inside. I always try and keep my core returns until the engine is up and running good .
Also, i always like to check the oil pump relief valve on any pumps that have them, even on new/reman pumps even if its only to make sure there is no crap in the seat/spool. I would hate to be the one in a thousand guy who gets stuck with one that doesn't operate correctly. I know you shouldn't have to but s!!t happens
Spoke to Cat shop and parts Shop said should rotate by hand but have enough resistance to not continue to roll Parts said warranty is a year so not a problem to swap. Will have pump tomorrow afternoon, i am off .
I think I would open the box the "new" one is in right at the parts counter and see how it turns compared to the one you have now. Call me a worry wart but I would be afraid that the same guy who assembled the last one did the next one you get. And if you are on good terms with the dealer I would ask if there was a chance they could open up the one you are having the low pressure problem with while you watch. Sure would be nice to know there is a problem in it!
We had a 465 horse N-14 that would lose oil pressure after it warmed up. I cleaned and shimmed the relief valve with no results. The gear inside the pump was pressed on the shaft with no key. When it warmed up it apparently expanded a bit and would slip on the shaft. I pulled the pickup tube off the pump and stuck a big screwdriver in there to pry on the gear to see if it would turn to figure that one out. Fortunately there was no damage to the engine.
Those are actually heated and shrunk/cooled to shaft.
Sweat fit usually locks tight Must have been off sized just enough on the N14
Old HS friend of mine I did not realize is the CAT Svc MGR at CoMO, he email sent me the diagnostics procedure pages for Low Oil pressure against engine codes which I have not checked, after looking at the notes from Mac I have been speaking to his first thought was worn pump suction throat and the ability of the O-ring to lose seal, a Chance in a Lifetime event HE encountered in 2010. Made me go Hmmm!!! His suggestion and I explained I already had it ordered was to replace suction tube AND Pump as housing is likely worn JUST ENOUGH to allow that event to occur, is not a check by Reman Techs as to that throat dimension just a visual for O-ring/tube head erosion, a MAYBE?????
Right now anything is a possibility IMHO. You're way outside the "normal" stuff now.
Have essentially checked or replaced all the ‘normal’ stuff, are well out of ‘the box’!! edit Am so far out of the box to be in the warehouse next door!
This issue right here is where a shop would lose there ass on a job like this. Theses issues are easy to miss because who in the hell would look for it on something as simple as a oil pump. Way out of norm.
Is there a way to narrow it down? Close the outlet on the pump, & see if it makes pressure? 4 reasons an oil pump won't build pressure: It isn't rotating. It isn't priming. Air doesn't pump really well. Pump doesn't pump. Not enough restriction in all the combined passages to build pressure. I'm not there, I'm only half a mechanic, but I think it'd be helpful to narrow it down to what is causing the failure. It occurs to me that engine design wants oil to flow, passages are sized to provide flow everywhere. Open one path too big, (as in a bad bearing) you lose pressure everywhere. While volume of an oil pump is reduced if pumping only air, the ability to build pressure is also reduced. Air flows easier than oil. Is there a way to tap the system on the pressure side of the pump & send oil in by other pressure source. Again, outside the box here, I might try a retired propane cylinder, a nipple & T. Through the T, install a dip tube plumbed to the oil pressure sensor tapping, or what have you on your engine. Tap in the T gets a Schrader valve to pressurize the propane tank. Funnel the tank full of oil. Feed it through the engine. It'll give you some information whether your engine is wasting flow, or if pump isn't providing flow. It'll also flood every bearing surface with oil it likely wants about now. By the way, I have a few of these rigs to put gear oil into transmissions, differentials, etc. They work for oil undercoating (rustproofing), solvent washing, etc.
Pretty simple pumps, USUALLY either pump or do not, in the case with this type they use O-rings to seal the joining surfaces of Suction and Discharge pipes to the pump housing not Bolted Flange or permanent Gallery interfaced direct to pump housing. Does eliminate the chance of a blown gasket or loosening bolts somewhat but allows other points of fault. In this case a 1 1/2" Tube drawing thru a pinholed tin sheet screen not mesh so ANY inleakage point becomes a Monstrous air entrainment issue. The lack of a Tight Solid Seal allows that hard suction pump to draw more air than viscous oil. Will definitely know when these parts are back on.
Pump warranted, they opened and checked Had .025 drive impeller end clearance to housing driven had .040. Had .035+ clearance impellers to housing. Questions ticket going with pump to Peoria. next up noted orange orings on tubes CAT parts man supplied at Other shop of theirs incorrect for app correct are black and harder, larger circumference Techs in shop made notes!!! I was set up for success
My question now would be: "Did they make the same measurements on the pump thy gave you to replace this one?" Hate to be negative about things, but if someone sold me a quart can of oil and I found it only had 28 oz in it I sure would not assume the next one out of the same carton was going to have 32 oz with out measuring it!
Just for fun tried finding spec's on oil pump on SIS. could not find anything on the gear clearances right off, see below: But going by the width of gears and the depth of bore in housing and using the max for depth of bore and minimum for width or the gears my math says the max end clearance for the gears should be 0.0068! So if I'm reading your post right one gear had 0.025 and 0.040! So my math puts the "good" gear at 0.018 over spec. and the "bad" gear at 0.0332 over spec.! Not an expert on gear pumps but seem to recall that gear pumps are pretty fussy about end clearances at least the hydraulic pump I had to deal with were!
Those pumps can take a beating, I had one years ago on a b that had run something through it. gears and bores were real sad-and it still pumped in spec before rebuild.
This one was beaten, and yet still making some oil pressure. Should have it back together this Saturday & have an idea if managed to cure this. IF Good Oil pressure then allow to warm, re-run overhead, then set covers and eventually perhaps Sunday re-set the Hood. Then on to the remaining work, bags and lines shocks brakes electrical and lighting, look all over repair anything that needs to be covered. Start aligning parts list to order exhaust for after paint. Then the search for Rubber sometime around Xmas or towards my Birthday in Feb, may even get it inspected and licensed come spring.
The sad thing about parts warranty is that most often they only cover the defective part(s) and not the labour. It would be nice if they would reimburse you for some labour cost due to the defective pump being beyond your control. If a shop had done the repair, they would have had to eat the labour cost until they submitted the warranty claim with the supplier.
Most warranties now have limiting conditions such as "incidental costs such as labor, lost production, down time, freight and so on." There is also many times a specific clause that the warranty will not pay out anymore than the cost of the failed part. Independent shops usually try to market themselves as being more fair and less costly that a franchised dealer. In fact many will just stop a repair until some kind of guarantee of payment is made. It has always been the policy of franchised dealers to charge the customer and try to make them pay repair costs up front. The customers then get to wait for their money until the factory pays the warranty claim. In my experience that can take up to six months for a situation to be resolved. A parts warranty is pretty easy in that you give them the defective part and they give you another part in exchange.
Easy, as long as the part that they give you in exchange was not rebuilt or assembled by the same person as the first defective part!
Actually, the problem would have been if the engine had burned up from lack of oil. How would the Cat dealer have covered that?
Was explained wouldn't have, they go to court for such events.
That has been my experience as well.
I can't hit the like button because although i agree with it, i don't like it
But when over hauled by cat and a OPT warranty bought with overhaul cat covers things like the original crank that was in that block.
Thats true but also thats one of the reasons their in-frame or total overhaul costs more. Also, they like to replace a lot of other stuff to be able to guarantee their repair. Most of the big brands do the same in my experience. I may not agree with them but i understand their point of view
Well I know one cat customer that was glad he bought a OPT-two months after it broke the crank on the 3406E.
We have a C-16 in a log truck that they rebuilt, cost 43,000 bucks but they have torn it down twice to replace pistons that seized plus a few other things on their dime. They don't know what caused the failures but stood behind everything.
Did you replace the piston cooler nozzles ? Bob
I would assume they did, the first time it seized the #6 piston and #5 was on the way out with about 70,000 miles I believe. The only thing they found was one of the cooler nozzles wasn't aimed correctly but wasn't off too far. They changed just those two Pistons and liners. The second time about 6 months later it was #4 piston and everything else looked fine. They replaced all 6 injectors that were remans installed with the original overhaul, the thought was that they could be over fueling and had been part of a bad batch of injectors. I never did hear if they tested them or what came from that. That was 6 months ago or so, it's been fine since.
Piston coolers are aimed on injection test stand with a bulls eye target.
I see, I knew they have to be aimed correctly but didn't know how they did it.
Plus few cat shops have the equipment to do it, with time involved may as well install new.
The step in the disassembly book right after remove oil pump is remove piston coolers most people miss that part. They don't go back in till the rods are back in. It's a sure bet if the pistons are removed and put back in with the nozzles still in they will be bent. And if the motor was dirty they may be plugged. So the safe bet is to replace them. Bob
And how many have been broken through the years on a 855, and wonder why low psi.
Coolers are still in place and in good order Pressure check showed were all spraying and evenly
I remember when Cummins went from the Steel nozzles to the Nylon, what a joke, first two years out we replaced them by the buckets due to cracks, leaks, finding tips during oil changes.
Then cummins changed the material to take the heat.
Started as a Decent morning, pump and tubes up, pan back on, oil back in. Reconnected batteries, and lit it up. just over 20# cold idle then low coolant auto shut down cut in, two gallon after pushed through the whole system. Restarted, still right at 20 so will have to open gear train and go there!!. Left to warm fully, dropped to 10+/- lbs, idle and Low Oil Pr alarm, over 30 at 1400 so definitely still have something dumping flow and gear train is last point of contention. KNEW should have done OOFr OH, is what I get for trying shortcut IFr. Gonna be awhile before can present much else, giving myself a break from it remainder of weekend and this week. Cam does show good bearing flow now.
I feel your pain D Miller. will be interesting to see what the probem is. Interesting=$$$.
Danggit I was hoping you had it, you deserve a break!
out of suggestions.
So am I. Every fault found so far has been a fact and factor. Should have just pulled the entire block, had it tanked, cleaned maybe even decked then built it. Would have found all the issues at one time. Gear train is next, then if still a problem, scrap dealer.
Dave-A friend of mine who worked for Cat for 25 years-mainly truck engines said he would read this thread, another set of eyes. Pretty sharp guy he might notice something overlooked.
Is the oil line from the block to the valve cover base for the IVA's capped off? It looked like it was in the pic's, just couldn't tell for sure.
Yes, that came off the right rear of block off main gallery, entire fitting is removed and o-ring style plug in its place.
So far for this morning Less angry today
Here's hoping it is something obvious and not too expensive!
Not thinking so. Gear train is down except the adjustable idler, found no bad bushings, stubs look great. So wild hair blew air back thru first idler stub off the Cluster gear, blows Inside the Crankcase. Pan comes down tomorrow, again, I am tired with a pounding headache. Will pull the plate anyway as have to reseal W/P to plate, will replace all these gaskets. Strange Front Seal, almost as has a dirt lip on the Outside of the wear sleeve, seal and all stayed on crank, pulled out of front cover thru the back. Beginning to expect a Cracked gallery side in the block.
At this point it ain't obvious. I got no suggestions, but I feel your pain.
Well then it's a good time to take a break form this one, trying to work through a bad headache is asking for trouble!
Jim Beam is a good analgesic. Not too much, that'd delay the headache, but it'll come back.
A little. Currently chasing two 150mg Celebrex with this Seems to take the edge off
Face of engine and gear train. Weird front seal where wide edge of sleeve was on Outside
I fill for you i have rebuilt stuff and had something bad go wrong i didnt fill good about it but i reused the parts after alot of blood sweat and tears i had something good. I hope you find something that can be fixed i wouldnt trust a mechanic that hasnt been through this kind of a deal before. Good luck
So far this morning Nada What appears to be a casting sprue And the head plug is still there
What appears a hole is a shadow I got a better light looked closer All six piston coolers intact, both legs, and can see them all. I am out of options.
Opened new front seal box Same as what was in it Will drop two mains and plastigage Again.
Make shift stethoscope, taped off front ports Blow thru air compressor supply Air dumps from number one piston cooler
Remind me if I ever divulge this deep into a engine to pull it so I can access everything easier. I will start it on a stand if I have to to test it before dropping it back in. You have been through hell and back with this one, you will eventually find it as I know you won't give up.
The steel plug to the left of the tape is sealing the main oil passage in the block. You could remove it to inspect for debris in the main oil passage. Should be able to pull it out with a magnet or push it out with a bent rod through one one the side ports on the block. The plug is just sealed with an oring and held in by the front structure. Similar plug is on the rear, have had to reseal them for leaking before. Also when plasticgauging the crank are you jacking up the crank so the excess clearance is on the bottom not the top? It can cause an improper "good" reading. Sorry if this is redundant info, just a couple thoughts I had.
I will note the gear train came down with oil on it, just not dripping as would have expected to see, leads me back to a flow loss on that main gallery. Pump feeds at center of main gallery Right Side of block, that in turn feeds the Main Journals feeding rods thru crank, center main feeds the passage to the Oil Pressure tap Left Side, secondary to front main is gallery that feeds gear train, air compressor and head. Starvation at this point and air releasing into block cavity blowing into air compressor feed line indicates the leak point just have to find it.
That is how we did most of the engines we rebuilt at the quarry shop. First boss was even fussier as he would have the engines sent to appropriate dealer to have them run-in on a dyno!
Cannot remember all the in-frames I ever performed, Driptroit, Cummins, IH, a few odd Cats, biggest was a D7 17a, myself and two others stripped it down In the Field and rebuilt it in the crawler, had to as was not able to get it on a trailer where it was. Was a standard practice at Mississippi Lime Company, not much was ever pulled unless needed crank or block work. Was handy at Continental Rebuilders where the engines came in on skids, clean up crew tore them down and tanked ALL the parts, blocks went to machine shop, cams and cranks to grinder contractor. Decked, bore alignment inspected, we started with Bare Blocks and built from square 1.
Everything performed so far was needed, nothing is being overlooked or ignored, just time and patience consuming.
Will hang the Cam gear and set backlash as get back from funeral services today, then ready to set timing cover but need to set gasket to the cover or plate with Hitack, it has been relaxing on a sheet of cardboard as was rolled around cardboard tubes to minimize size for shipping. Have a front seal tool coming once its in will clean off crank face better and set the damper again.
Did you find the problem?
Have not gotten there yet Likely Saturday.
First items first Back in time and cover 75% attached sitting on mounts. Wanted NOT swinging on hoist and cam timed to crawl under to access the cooler nozzles.
Another potential ruled out Cooler nozzles all intact no cracks no loose retainer bolts No visible cracks on main gallery
Coming to Point of no return Remove engine from chassis Strip completely as out of removable components as a problem. Block cracked across main gallery is all that is left.
How about a cracked flair on one of those steel tubes? Or any other internal tube on the pressure side of the lube system?
Looks like a funny mark inside that one flair on the LH side of the picture
all i see is dirt. But yeah, this is frustrating for you Dave.
When i suspect a cracked tubing flair i heat it lightly with a torch and it shows up right away usually
Beginning to ask myself why I wasted my time and effort, will be a year or more getting any further.
Used blocks have become scarce commodities $2000-$2500 used needing machine work and freight to get it here, all the gaskets sets and the once use head rod and rocker bolts then can a used block show up also crap that would set the $$ level to useless. Then still have remaining drive train work, pretty well depressed currently. Seriously considering parting it out now.
Blow air into air compressor oil feed line L side of block back to main gallery, air blows above and behind #1 main. Very little air coming out piston nozzle mount points and still whistles behind the main. No plugs, no other ports except the cross drillings main gallery to main and main to front structure/head supply riflings. Nothing else can explain the exhaust air behind the main boss.
Sounds like block is cracked somewhere internally. Very depressing to not find it
Thick solution of dish soap and water might help?
Bad mood is not in joking mood.
Will remove the ehad first, then pull drive line and trans, may pull R Tool box to roll trans out. Did not get too carried away putting stuff back on where will have the head undressed by next weekend and setting back in the shipping crate it came in. I am serious in that should a block be too exaggerated expensive I may just part the whole thing out and recover some of the invested cash.
Wasn’t trying to be joking about it, just an opinion of what it sounds like.
Man, i feel for ya dmiller
Was not you spud, message directly after yours.
At least with Engine/Trans out will be able to rent a Hotsy and pressure wash the frame inside. Will have to unstick the LF Dr Brake to get it outside.
I spent a little time cruising the internet for engines, and there's not much out there for used runners. I hate to see you throw in the towel and part it out, but I understand the frustration and the sunk cost you have in getting this far.
Is a reman (Decked and inspected) block on Fleabay for $2500, also a block in Arkansas if not already gone for $1200 but will need work. Want to think on expenses paid and would need to come for awhile before dump more into it. Are a few salvagers with c15 runners, not all in what is considered as runable day to day but rebuildable, prices start at $15k, and Just Runs. In Just the engine, I am down close to $20, then all the support work and that is far yet from being done. I get another block and is suitable, then there are a full set head bolts, full set rod bolts, full set rocker arm bolts, all the gaskets and oring kits for sleeves to closure, have to return to square one to reinspect it all then fit it all and then test it all. Be close to six months and still not drivable. Be down another minimum $6k
Thick soap and water to help confirm leak location is all
https://dieselcranks.com/caterpillar-3406e-c15-engine-block-good-used-108-3918.html
I'm not a mechanic or even in your country so have no idea of the future costs you will be incurring. However I have been following along and while I'm not going to say go one way or the other, you obviously started this project for a reason and I don't think that reason would have changed. I also think that regardless of the financial merits of one course of action or another you are the sort of person who will regret not finishing this thing if you decide to part it out. Maybe do your homework on costs going forward and then give it a week or two to chew it over. Best of luck whichever way you go.
Too bad TS that one is gone. Will call COs offer numbers tomorrow.
I'm just not believing there isn't somebody able to diagnose this problem. Often a matter of a fresh look on a new day, or a seed of thought that grows, 2:00 AM revelation.
https://www.dieselcastwelding.com/caterpillar/3406e/cylinder-block/
Problem is this engine-according to JY, got hot as a pistol IIRC. So anything is possible.
All it took was sitting awhile for whatever was bad to get worse.
One thought-you said it was a BXS engine-IIRC those have a longer stroke for what that's worth.
Yes it is.
Don't mean to pisss on your parade but all of those coolers a bent in fact one is not even for that engine. But they are not your oil problem. Bob
5EK1 up-6TS1 up used single tube piston coolers, same with 1LW. 6NZ up came with twin tube piston coolers, 6NZ used a two piece aluminum piston, ACERT BXS1 up came with one piece steel. IIRC.
Check out the second one from the bottom. Bob
Yes it's different, it's for a 6NZ and down. Whether it would not cool/lube wrist pin or a piston properly I can't say for sure. But like you said it isn't the problem. Edit-from my post 964. The E models all came with twin coolers after mulling it over and looking through my three manuals. Early models came with smaller diameter tubes, later version were larger. But for what reason I don't know because both models are aimed to same area at bottom of piston crown. I don't think it would need more flow but maybe stronger tubes. Who knows probably no one at cat could tell us either.
Is a optical illusion on the oil jets All are same essentially tips are all pointed to the same delivery angles. P/ns all the same On the phone over two hours last night with a old friend that at one time worked for Cat here, he retired disabled after a severe injury and was reading of my issues on our trade school alumni site. Called me out of the blue, said going to go thru his notes as struck a chord with him remembering similar years back and would call me some time today. The key was the overheat and broken head.
So a little after five this morning Otto texts me as found his note. Later model 3406E 700 series dump truck eerily similar occurrence, holed radiator eng went smoking hot had just started a contract haul so pinch patched radiator with stop leak to slow loss, engine restarted so used it as was for a month with occasional cook offs, head known broken. Otto sent to swap heads and radiator truck still driving but oil pressure dropped some 15 psi from normal performed work restarted and NO oil pressure. Again similar dropped pan rechecked all that he had done, nothing. Tried oil pump no change so pulled a rod and main trashed. Removed new head where spotted oil supply tube was really short. Engine pulled took back to shop where rebuild shop tore it down. Repetitious overheating to unknown severity the front main boss had also cracked across oil gallery. Aa Otto had installed new head friction on tube was enough to press it thru the gallery crack blowing out side of gallery. was told was in no way his fault but had been set up to fail inadvertently. Asked how easy my head went on, explained got it on tube and then it just popped onto position, he said same as his job had. Told me take head off and look at oil tube height. Block is likely broken, junked. Otto has been on SS disability since a job accident 21 years ago, fell backward as a independent after quit Cat, large final then fell on him destroyed pelvis and broken hip. Sleeps less than I do.
Hard to click on like for this! But at least it gives you some idea of what to look for and an idea that it was nothing you could have known about before hand. Hope you can confirm that this is the problem and are able to source a good block to build an engine on.
Agree... Fingers crossed
Really curious what you find, that is a valuable cautionary tale regardless!
Found a block Springfield Heavy Duty Rebuilder supply Cleaned and magnafluxed, $1500+ tax/shipping if I wish to. Guy I spoke with was quite aware of head supply gallery cracking issues. Weak spot to remember?
Actually the weak spot is someone running a engine to melt down in the first place. No engine can withstand that type of abuse.
Where are you checking your oil pressure?
At the same point the OE ECM sender and dash gauge taps off, put a gauge on main gallery by turbo feed and read similar.
The issue once I get it opened up is simple math, No.s 1 & 6 rods had serious starvation indications on tear down, the cam showed scuffing with destruction of rollers in rocker arms. Only possible is Low Oil flow. As I noted the guy at HD Reb Supply also well educated as to this occurrence on Overheated REPEATEDLY engines, same as my old classmate had seen. Is NOTHING behind the Front Main except Rod Journal and piston nozzle, the air going in the Air Compressor feed hose blows out directly above and forward of the Cranks Journal just cannot see up in there, the Head Oil Feed tube gallery is present at that position.
What I find odd is with spacer plate installed with all gaskets, water grommets and the two o-rings for the cylinder head oiling dowel that dowel is barely over spacer plate height. Obviously it has happened but that dowel must be a long one. I do know the 1LW engine is known for breaking cranks. trivia.
Per JY, yes the engine had a noted drop in oil pressure at some point after the overheat, had lost coolant from leaking WP, then busted head, pressurizing the cooling system so ran cap at first notch and refilled as needed to get the contract fulfilled. Truck came home, got torn down, end of life for six years. I get it, In Frame it, set new head and then start chasing little to negligible oil pressure and a head that does not receive but a dribble of oil flow. Began questioning when on a 40psi delivered flow from a priming tank got NO Oil pressure at the dash gauge and no oil at the head. Have used a pressure pump at the line engine end and dash ga is with 2psi of applied pressure.
Another point, the gallery being cracked, that tube possibly followed old head Up then stopped, then with new head, got to interference friction and shoved into the cracked gallery, Pop! I will find a way to photo what I find.
After looking completely through my manuals and remembering the installation on the oiling dowel that dowel is held in-place/sealed using cat brand 7M-7456 compound, it's not that long. and extends 0.79 + or - 0.02 above the cylinder block deck surface. I'm thinking or it seams by cat diagrams it would have cracked the oil rifle just above the main web or the vertical oil rifle just above it. That's along way from that dowel. imo
I have not been this deep in one Getting all manner conflicting information. Do know I need to find the point of oil flow diversion.
Can't run it to diagnose. Is there a way to supply the oiling system from an air tank? I've used old propane & Freon tanks as dispensers for gear oil etc. Use compressed air to push it. Warm oil flowing through the system will show up with an infrared camera. I once diagnosed a useless John Deere backhoe with an infrared camera.
Not a cheap solution, but probably better than throwing in the towel. Going to need to roll motor on its top, to pull crank out? And get crank checked?
Have a Pressure Lube bottle, can use when on the floor, tired of fighting the truck to gain access to anything. Block in Ozark is being purchased, will be just over $1800 shipped, have to UPS a Check to them. I Do NOT and will not trust this block as of now.
Well we all have our crosses to bare-I had mine 30 plus years ago with a BCIII rebuild could not get the injector timing right. Close but not on. Smoked like hell on the engine stand. After hours and hours if checking this and that, this apart and that apart. I tore it down for the second time and found the keyway for new cam gear was not cut in the correct spot degree wise. Should have looked there the first time I tore it down. I put a sign up by the wash sink/bathroom-it read {Cry Station #1}.
Cam key Not quite the easiest part to inspect once installed
Wasn't the key it was the gear slot, and a new OEM gear.
Heard another point was not aware of, there are or is orifice in the block at least over the #7 main, possibly one above the #1 on the back side into the oil gallery. For what the guy could not remember just that the drive plug was there and visible on number 7 with a drilled port in it.
Is there any way to check it with an inspection mirror or inspection camera?
Not and see much, above the axle and tie rod, loads of stuff including crank throw and counterweights in the way. Will be out and on the floor then will remove the crankshaft to see what is up.
Bought a used block from Heavy Duty Rebuilder Supply Ozark MO, check been sent and as soon as in their hands will be aligned for shipping. Also a BXS s/n Block, been cleaned and magnaflux inspected on the head deck, will not know how much machine work will need until put eyes on it and determine deck quality where should show up here one day next week. Today going to get in the shop, clean and organize tools, get pieces and parts organized and out of the way, get bench cleared for pieces to lay out then get after pulling the pieces to remove the engine, clean up the mess. Some time over next weeks will get into the LF Dr Brake either free it up or bust the drum off to get truck mobile and then pulled just outdoors to park until engine work completed, still have to tow bar I made up to unload it to remove it from the building. If can get enough order inside may leave it in but for now appears needs to go out. Still not enthralled of where this has gotten to.
Been there done that at least its yours and you dont have some one pushing to get it done. I fill for you i would have loved to throw a match to a prodject or two but i am to dumb. poor or stubborn to do that. Good luck
Drive lines down, repositioned a bunch of take off components today and started the sorting of tools and hardware, have figured head will need to come off and replacement block once complete to pistons/rods/sleeves/end structures will have to go in prior to head as this one comes out due to height limits of my Gantry. Did figure out the Rusted to drum brakes on LF Drive as are loose now, will see it rolls when engine is out and trans out from under. Could have seized bearings in hub.
Today, on a hint of eeally bad attitude got after it. Head off all head components on bench, trans is down but will need to drag right tool box back off pull engine and raise frame to get it out for cleaning and to move chassis for cleaning.
Dowel was undisturbed, nothing out of the ordinary.
Some how-I just didn't think it was a problem, because it would have been screwed up before if that were the case.
Replacement block is here, in back of my pickup under tarps until tomorrow when can get the Farm Allis unhooked from the bush hog and up here to lift it out
Have to pick it up at a truck dock? Or did you have it delivered to commercial address and go get it? Either way, at least you're making progress.
I quess i will get some more popcorn while i wait for the problem to be found. Be proud DMiller, your mamma didn't raise any quitters. I feel for your pain.
My current employer volunteered to let me have it delivered there. Said has employees and a forks attachment for backhoe not a problem. That is until his son who will take over the business got snotty as to how did a employee consider themselves so special as to have parts delivered at Their shop, the boss cut him no slack and in front of others as to that disrespectful display!! He explained to his son that respect is in BOTH directions and HE volunteered the delivery to keep me at work for the day I would have had to have taken off to take delivery. He wins Both ways.
And yes Farmerlund As my Mother figured out early I am one obstinate determined ****!!
All I can say is that kid better hope his dad hangs in there for many years. With an attitude like that he is going to be out of business very quick once he take over! And I hope any of the workers who saw that BS start looking for other places to work once the dad is gone!
If he's real young, he may learn although it seems nowadays some don't and their entitlement attitude stays with them for life.
Boss is a year from retirement, IF his health hangs in there. His son is early thirties, a bit headstrong as shown and YES, have heard from a majority of the Old Hands that once Papa is gone the boy is On His Own.
I'm getting on in years. My son has some maturing to do. I hope to last as long as I need to last. A good man sells me steel & aluminum. He's older than me. Like me, he's second generation in the family business. Like me he has a son to take over. His son is even more cocky than my son. We've kidded about "I'm sure glad I don't have your son." His son has grown into a man I will be happy to do business with when the unthinkable happens. His son is a good friend of my son. We shape, we mold, we hope. When it is over for us, the next generation is the product we produced. That product is how we will be judged. I desperately hope my father was judged favorably for the son he produced. I desperately hope I will be judged favorably for the sons I produced. I have expanded my product to sons of other people. I'm pretty damned proud of my work! All but one have brought back some wonderful daughters in law. The one hold out assures he will never bring a wife here. That too is OK.
Smart-stay single-less headache and expense. And that goes both ways.
My dad always said: "You can judge how the children were raised when you see the grandchildren." I have found that to be pretty accurate. over the years.
Today still nothing standing out, all external connections disconnected or removed Need to make couple of 3/4 bolt lift eyes and have it out Charity cycle ride tomorrow so if not tonight late tomorrow.
Then a little more anger sets in and POOF it is on the floor.
Have a safe ride tomorrow!
Thanks
Still gonna need to pull the R side box and raise the chassis about two inches to clear gear box, low on priority currently.
So, did i miss something or why are you pulling the trans?
Taking a look-see. Checking to see how much oil is in the gear box air system. Might want to remove shift bar housing and bottom pto cover and see how much metal are on the magnets plus check main shaft end play. jmtc.
Main reason Cleaning 1/2” of accumulation across box The Charity Ride organizing up so far!! hour to go!
A little less angry today Someone or thing was looking out for me clutch done as well rear seal was out
Ya i guess not knowing much about the service history and the overheat on the engine, the rest of the driveline needs to be checked too.
As the saying goes, there is a reason for everything, just need to find the silver lining in it. That engine being toasted beyond repair was the silver lining in another problem that could of happened and cost more down the road as it destroyed more plus a tow bill. Might been same price as previous sentence as the new engine block, but it was done in comfort of your own home without the stress of dealing with it on the road in possible historic snow storm.
Now I am growing angrier Engine is on its back, pulled and gauged two mains, 4(thrust)&7 Does not register on Red Crank coming out to Mic it Will be written down when done all rods all mains.
Is that a special bearing with all the balls off to one side to make room for more grease?
These came out Standard
Went back to SIS, 4W5700 is a .63mm OS, close to .005 crank undersize I ordered parts against the old part numbers.
I just completely disassembled a early Big Cam VI I've had stored for several years-this week. It had a knock supposedly-it turned out to be the accessory drive. But after getting into it I found out it was a Cummins Recon. Cummins used a NT88 block which already is cut for lower press fit liner but they cut the counter bores for .020 shims and 20/40 liners so that work is already done. Cam is good, followers are good cam matches cpl. Injectors and pump match cpl, but heads do not. Someone was in it for who knows what reason and installed early heads. Every part number, every part has to have a mic put to it because with Cummins especially there are too many people that think it's Cummins anything will fit. And most have several mismatched parts after 30 to 40 plus years.
Measured rod journals of four exposed (hanging on hoist) measure at 3.819, standard, have not measured mains as waiting for access to a 4-5” mic. Spoke to a Cat tech New cranks could come anywhere from tight under .003 clearance to .010 where the 4W-5700 main bearings were still considered as STD even as .005(.63mm) oversize. So IPD did not actually screw up. I did.
Just wondering, doesn't .63mm equal .025" ? If the crank is undersize, you would think it would be stamped unless it came from the factory like that. Sometimes manufacturers salvage a new crank by grinding it and it may not be stamped. I've seen a Cat warranty engine with an undersize crank in it but it was stamped on the oil pan rail on the outside if i remember correctly, or maybe it was tagged. It was 35 years ago
Are correct, I mis wrote. The fact is I sent the numbers to IPD Rep for purchase and he ordered STD. Still my fault. Nothing noted on Crank or Block I can find.
0.63mm = .0248 inches 0.063mm = .00248 inches
Thats a tough break. Years ago, i saw a crank come from a re-grinder that they forgot to stamp
Sorry to hear that Dave. I'm glad you're still digging your way through this. I know how frustrating it can be to have so much time, energy and money wrapped up into something and then its not right when you get near the end. Then you have to expend more time and energy into finding your issue and correcting it. Keep going Dave, I am learning a lot about all aspects of re-habbing an old truck from your posts and I appreciate you sharing your journey.
Isn't the 4W-5700 for a block with the main bearing caps bored 0.63mm (0.025") oversize combined with standard size crank journals.? See table below for options.
Not sure Nige, just know will have to be that size to get Oil Pressure Back.
Better mic each crank housing bore with main cap at 150 lb ft torque. Trust nothing. Years ago-I found one crank pin .010 under on a factory built Ford 429. Engine had never been into. I bought the engine from original owner. Stamping cranks was born out of old machine standards years ago. No one does that anymore. If I was assembling a Cat or Cummins I would stamp abbreviation LS-liner shim .020 or for Cummins LPF-lower press fit-20/40 then followed by my initials.
Fully intend to check each journal, had not considered bores, that will be on the same list now.
Your 4W-5700 bearing is .025 in. bigger on the out side as in block bored .025 over and std. on the inside as in std. crank journal. Bob
Thanks Bob
I have a second Block here, I may check the Block bores on it as well may be able to use my 'New' STD Bearings on It. Can always sell either block.
TS, long ago bought a new '75 chevy 3/4 ton. At 120K miles, shoved the the throw out bearing thru the pressure plate plowing snow one night. In those days, and that truck, was easier to pull the engine than the trans and transfer case to clutch it. Thought I would go ahead and roll bearings in while I had it out. Bought new, never opened up before, so just rolled in standard rods and mains. Reinstalled, lit it up, and had 0 oil press at idle, 5 lbs high idle. ***? Dug the old shells out of the scrap. New, from the factory, .009 under mains, .0005 under rods. Owned a lot of trucks since then, but never another chevy. Bastids...
I remember a few engines where the whining started early about the time it took me to make sure all was right in the basement and not trusting the machine shop work. Slam together monkeys kept saying plastigauge was a waste of time and I was just running up the dollars. Found one engine with one crank journal different. Another with cuttings in the oil gallery and another with two different sizes on the big ends of a couple of rods. On something as expensive as any diesel engine and being so time consuming to do the job more than once, I don't trust any factory or any individual's work or words on history.
Good rule to live by.
Trust no one or anything, question everything.
Then everyone on here while eating your cheerio's-please read the entire contents on the side of the box. While taking a crap read the entire contents of your mouthwash and deodorant. and check back.
I prefer Oatmeal!
Doing my Research, found this as the measurements to be expected untitled (enginebuildermag.com)
I did that years ago except it's peanut butter and wheat bread, so what are we looking for…
Just seeing if anyone would do it!
So..........TS messed up my thought train by having spud read his peanut butter jar, you ended up with the wrong bearings somehow? lol
If all the old mains are 4W-5700s then I bet that's where the oil pressure went. Bob
No doubt 7x.025 excess to normal clearance have to give homage to Cat’s oil pumps if still able to make 12psi on a gaping hole as this.
Also back to considering on why trusting the OE block, by all inference is a recovered damage block been line bored to correct carnage.
Well my favorite peanut butter just says:
Now if this was a thread on a Detroit two stroke the label on the "peanut butter" would be different!
Notice the corresponding stream from mains and nothing really from rods.
Can I get a condensed version of what happened? I realize the bearings were wrong but why? I think I got it now. Crank was standard but the block was cut and you ordered standard bearings. Is that right?
that is one way how an oem salvages an engine core that somebody has traded in . Although that being said, that block should go another million miles if everything else is good and the engine gets regular maintenance and is not abused. Its actually a good thing if oversize shells are available for a specific engine. Its cheaper than having the main saddles welded and rebored on a block that may be impossible to find or replace
That is the fact. Mains were called in and emailed photo, was told STD Crank and the bearings came as Standard, no heavy shell.
Just so I'm following this since I'm no mechanic, the bearings were not the proper size and that is what caused the low oil pressure because the oil was flowing too freely around the mains? But, nothing damaged, besides your pride, correct bearings are available and it all just needs to go back together?
Wow! Seems simple now! So many experts, so many know it alls, Who'd have thunk? I feel like plastigauge would have shown a bad fit.
engine is on the floor, upside down At this juncture have a second block also a BXS that will be inspected and the Jinx sold off. BTW. The absolute epitome of a Sorry No Count Rotten NO Good classic SOB installed the starter on this engine, 5/8 space saver head 5/8 bolts and had been dipped to the shanks in loctite. Took a two foot piece of pipe on a 5/8 9/16 combo boxed end with enough force to almost flip the block over to break them loose, all 3 of them. Impact would not budge.
That would have been fun in the field.
Pretty hard to trouble shoot when the crew on here-isn't there. And photos are just that photos. but I suppose there's only one way to wire a house.
Had the same thing recently on a C-13. Customer rebuilt it and had low oil pressure after. Crank was std but the block was bored out. Also found out if you sit a standard bearing in a bored out main cap, the bearing sits just below flush as opposed to slightly sticking above the cap with the correct bearing.
It might be worth a look at the threads on the flywheel housing. What if all that Loctite had been applied in an attempt to prevent bolts loosening in worn threads.?
Already a plan Nige. If are damaged is a good time to coil them.
The offending bolts, holes appear ok but will try a new bolt in them, lock washers appear little to no spring left, no apparent starter shift scuffing on housing or starter head. And the cracked motor mount cushion. Not quite to the Shanks but enough the bolt holes are loaded with the stuff.
Not sure could have gained enough access to get the Upper bolt popped loose in the chassis. ECM there, misc Cab stuff there, Loads of Engine mounted stuff in front of starter but could be worse.
Hard to tell from picture but those bolts look a bit short assuming this engine has a standard 42 MT starter.
I looked at some C15 engines and they all seem to use 1.75 inch long 12 point head 5/8 bolts and I also noted that none show washers of any kind. No locks and not even harden flats.
Pretty standard stuff for mounting a starter. I've run into starter bolts like that, Fun.
I does seem simple now after the fact but not when you're working on it. I've done this many times missing something simple and right in front of my face and chasing a non existing problem. In this case I'd never think of the block being cut.
When i changed the starter on my N14, i had to machine down an impact 3/4 drive 12point socket to get the bolt behind. After i got movement on the bolts they were still tough and squeaked all the way out. No loctite but galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. Threads were ok in the housing. Wire wheeled the bolts and lockwashers and used copperkote on installation in case i ever had to pull it off again. They were the toughest starter bolts i had encountered. Glad i was doing that job in a shop
I've been throwing lock washers away for more than thirty years. If I have to have a washer, it is a flat hard washer.
Depending on the application i do that too
Now I know where all those lock washers I see on the ground came from! lol But I agree.
I got a kick out of how Cat engines were assembled. The older ones had just about every internal fastener with the steel locks where you bent them up after tightening the nut or bolt. Then after a few years they stopped using them even on identical models of engines that had been built with dozens of them. Just for kicks around 30+ years ago when I did a ground up rebuild of my old Farmall BN tractor decided to do away with all the lock washers. So far nothing has fallen off! Some places did get the hardened flats. About the only place I use any kind of lock washers is the star type locks on electrical connectors and not 100% sure they are needed there. I do at times use nylock or other types of locking nuts. In places like the nuts that hold pistons on hydraulic rams I did use Loc-Tite.
Do you remember drilled bolt heads and the tie wire? Glad I never bought one of those “special” pliers for that.
Castle nuts and cotter keys.
I just sent my package of those AND The Pliers to IA recently, mid 70s Allis. Had ALL The Above on it.
Anyone who has raced motorcycles in competition will be intimately familiar with lock wire and the “special” pliers that were the fastest way to install it. Every fastener and even things like handlebar grips and R clips had to be lockwired.
Drilling rigs are chock full of tie-wire bolts/nuts. Nobody wants to be tripping pipe when a 6" long, 5/8" bolt decides to exit the top drive when it is at the crown. With a 100+ ft drop, that bolt becomes a widowmaker, hard hat or not. We had some tie wire break while drilling one time. Bolt came out, fell about 60 ft, hit the floor and ricocheted into the safety window in front of drillers cabin. Sounded like a shot gun blast went off and destroyed that window. Very lucky that we were drilling and nobody was on the floor when it came down.
Not sure how much good that wire did but there was a bit of an art to put it in and make it look good and actually look like it could function as intended. Can't really recall taking something apart and finding a loose bolt with wire holding it in place. As for the cotter keys I felt at least the ones that had the "bulge" part way down them that you had to tap into the hole was a good attempt to keep them from rattling and breaking.
Yep, sure do
I dunno, but i sure like the idea of safety wire on airplane stuff when i fly . I use various locking methods on any machine with vibration especially on sheetmetal or brackets. Not so keen on loctite in those applications because it takes too much time. Split type lockwashers are prone to cracking or breaking but i like those serrated(for lack of a better word) and slightly cupped flatwashers on some newer ag equipment. They may be a European or ISO thing but they seem to work
Grade 8 flat washers with Stover nuts.
Flanged stover nuts, skip the washers
Depends on what it is.
I'm glad the mystery is solved and I don't blame you for wanting to ditch that jinxed block. It seems like you did well to get it out of there when you tick off all the crap that was wrong with that assembly, with clutch, pilot bearing, welded on starter, etc. i have those special pliers and different sizes of stainless safety wire, the oil drain plugs were safety wired, screen nut, retainer bolt. 1500 hours equals 15 oil changes over the years.
Bought the 4W OS Bearings, Old Block is staying as a Second Thought. Why send this to someone else as a Problem child when can fix it right, and Now. Bought block AFTER this is back running will be sold. Was a JIC purchase where was only decent one available and satisfied that for me.
Looking at your wrong new bearings I would send that old block to town and have it washed out. Bob
Going there with it soon. In frame work has never been notably 'Clean' ever as this engine sat open for six years, could not dislodge every piece of crud, oil flow did that for me.
A photo of where I am at, shells will come out, will remove remnant of rear seal and set crank aside to haul block to wash it. Bellhousing, Starter and Front Structure housing too.
Got to follow this bad boy back into the shop yesterday. Twehous of Jefferson City, headed to our quarry to recover last piece of Mobile Crusher plant headed to Thayer MO.
Too long Too many axles Too many flags and it's painted the wrong color Too.
Engine will go back in as large sectional components, NOT taxing my Hoist and being alone doing this. Will mask off and paint as put major sections together so looks Purty when done this time. The engine may well have just been embarrassed to be seen filthy and threw up on me for that!!
Please tell me you will pull all the oil galley plugs and clean every oil port before assembling Those mains sure must have rolled in easy with that much clearance. Could have used your dink to push them in I bet!
Was a shock did not have to use a Tool as a screw or cotter pin in a Cross Drill hole to roll them in, should have been FIRST Clue. Plugs will ALL Come out, Air thru ALL Riflings and Visual inspect all can see in.
Not criticizing, I know nothing about these engines. The diesels I have rebuilt were 40 HP & less. You didn't grind the crank. Was it within tolerance? You've likely said how many miles on the engine, I don't remember. Would you be happier truing the crank? You mention a line bore. How do you need a line bore if you haven't broken a crank? Is this the original crank for this engine? I went through a broken crank once, wasted a lot of time & money learning why. The subject of line bore came up. I live in the middle of nowhere, but had a race engine builder I had known before he was famous. He measured, & confirmed the block bores were straight, my failure was because of unscrupulous seller, spin a bearing, clean it up, replace with four standard bearings....sell it.
Truck was purchased used prior to me, has 600,000+ecm miles no idea of any previous history or issues prior to coolant leak that busted the head then appears got neglected. Cat as to what I have read did have a issue with broken cranks a few years on this series and this could be one. Block has been align bored, ended up with oversize shell bearings, indicates had a problem at some point. I did not catch that nor did the new parts supplier as I did give p/n of these and the shell coding. Internally the shells are STD crank, rods were STD. Today was T-day so not much done had a bit of other stuff to do. new shells and rod bolts.
I HATE used machines. More problems from withheld information than original problem. Mostly, sellers cheat buyers. I'm not accusing JY, he too was a buyer.
He had it a short time, likely all the woes this machine has/had were lead in to what he ended up with. All I have found to date were leftovers from long term. Corrosion was from sitting and knew what was getting into. Just let myself get to thinking was gonna be easy fix. Still a ton of money to get it where I can actually trust it long term to do what I want it to.
1LW series had the problem. But I've seen two 6TS engines with broke cranks also.
This one had to have had a problem early. 2004 build BXS.
Could have had a spun main, something to need a Align Bore.
Keep track of all the plugs you remove, scrub galleys with a brush. Air doesn't get rid of dirt it just moves it. The bolts you took out of starter are not the right ones. You might consider a gear drive starter if you plan to keep truck. And last but not least new piston cooling nozzles right after you put pistons in. Bob
How did the bearing shells fit in the cap ? I was taught that they should kind of snap into place. Anyway hindsight is 20/20 and I am glad you’re getting some resolve.
Even the wrong new shells snapped in place Have rifling brushes for clean up as needed Nozzles are on order been for two weeks. Starter was fine before took engine out Is no starter spacer so bolts by length are correct.
Those friggin starter bolts just need some anti seize. Personally with rifle plugs removed a hot pressure washer aimed straight in the rifles works well. I just cleaned that 400 C block that way-shiny through the rifles.
Was always impressed with the amount of crap you can find in the oil galleys of some engines. That is why we always removed every one and put a little prick punch next to the hole to remind us there was a plug removed. The ones that seemed to be the worst were the plugs in the crankshaft! And those could be a bitch to remove. Found a small heating tip right in the center for a few seconds then let cool a bit and most would turn out easy. For the stubborn ones a 3/16 drill down the center then a second hit with the heating tip and most would come out like they were never tightened!
In my opinion, the degree of cleaning a block somewhat depends on the reason for a repair and also what is found in the oil filter after the engine was last run, as well as a couple other criteria. But that being said, in a bare-block rebuild i feel that there is no such thing as too clean
Just back from dropping off Flywheel to Local that will reface it, stopped by carwash cleaned Frt cover, Bell Housing, Front Mount and Starter, Damn Truck would not start as was 16 here last night (7.3 is tired!) used my old Pimpala to haul that much. Better but Not Spotless. Still need to strip plugs from block and ready for similar haul. Did stop by my Barn and plugged in Cantankerous Allis forklift/Farm Tractor, also a Hard Start.
Got the forklift up and loaded off to tge carwash Did find this!
Looks to be on the back of the rear main? Exactly where you wouldn't see it doing in frame. Muzy
All cleaner, not pristine sparkly clean but Clean enough and flywheel done
Will get number stamped as to 063OS mains when I am done
Line bore guy didn't like Mickey mouse measurement system
No he didn’t
Now for the wildest offer been made to me. SUPPOSEDLY a fella south of me has a Big AL Allis Engine(Probably not but could be) more likely a Allis Genset engine but he offered it to me to install HERE in the KW!!!! May just buy it to have it even as no parts out there For It.
Had one other issue chewing on my brain, obvious when pulled head that 1/5&6 did not ever fire in any of the run time I put on this. NO carbon in upper sleeve regions just oil. So got to digging thru harness and connections and wiring diagrams. NOT certain if is missed Common Ground on Single Plug 6NZ harness or just corrosion or possibly bad connections in existing Two Head harness, does not matter. Just ordered 6NZ style Single plug Engine side and under cover harnesses, less than $600 and NEW, in stock. should be here sometime LONG before engine is back in frame. Eliminates above questionable issues where will only have to blank off Rear Lower Base Valve Cover harness port. P/Ns 202-1060 ECM side, 425-6526 in cover side. Covers needs of Sensors, Injectors and Engine Brake as Only needs, may need to change out SOME sensor plug styles, maybe not.
Productive day Shined on crank journals some more and cleaned on it better, set it and no 1& 4 mains Plastigage confirms under .006 clearance on those set the remainder to initial torque have to set up Xmas tree so stopped for day. Do have to get bell housing seal rings as the OE set up and IPD sent gasket before can get it out of my way.
Hazy photos due to my slimy fingers on Lense!! Will stand engine up on Bell housing once mounted until get deck and upper counterbores cleaned up.
Got black slicum and hardened gorilla snot cleaned from flywheel housing, seals glued back in and housing installed. Was surprised to see that hardened yellow snot in the groove. Also two additional 3/8 coils for pan bolts.
Yesterday was Xmas here so nothing done Started back this morning. Rear seal and flywheel on, stood engine up to clean the deck and bores, had wife aid me to drag the truck out and cold pressure washed as could. Got trans out cleaned it some where is better but still not perfect yet can see bolt heads now.
Ordered the trans parts I have found necessary so far, also ordered the clutch, new Easy Pedal $700 and change should be here today or tomorrow. Also FINALLY received the CTP Piston Cooler heads I ordered close to 2 months ago, first order 'Was Lost in Mail'. Back on this like stink to a skunk Saturday.
Got to a rough spot this stubborn bo good #€£#¥!!! Yoke would NOT move so we had a little Come to Jesus moment Then the Come or Bleed you sonsabich I done spit on you for the LAST TIME attitude cut in. still had to drag the halves off with the puller
Next up The frozen in place speedo trigger wheel
That looks like it was "tons" of fun to remove....sorry, I couldn't resist. But I honestly have to say Dmiller, I've been following this from the get go, and you, my brother, are one dedicated sob. I get inspired to do a little better every time I see an update on this, looking forward to hearing her run soon!
I don't like seeing the trans struggles. I've got to pull the W. Star 13 speed this week, and I'm hoping for a short in and out. Are you rebuilding yourself? I just got a quote for a exchange reman at $3,300 or $3,500- I can't remember which. A different source quoted me $4,000. That's just trans, I'm figuring on clutch and either surfaced or new flywheel while I'm there. I really don't have any business redoing the transmission myself, I could probably figure it out, but I don't have the tools or expertise and its probably $2,000 worth of parts to rebuild mine.
No reman needed AFAIK, just seal leaking, minor stuff all around external of box, some hoses could stand changed NOW while out, Speedo Sensor had been unplugged Awhile, end couplers were packed with gunk so bought a replacement, did NOT expect the yoke fun.
Persuasion works wonders Seal surface is crap so will replace
So I don't want to be a downer but don't you think that transmission should be looked at? I mean everything else in this truck was beat to death.
Gonna have to at least try it, Not in budget for $3500 reman replacement or spending a couple months tearing this one down to reassemble rebuild in my spare time. Not going into diffs either, brakes and hub seals inspect wheel bearings beyond suspension and drive lines is all will get, POSSIBLY get full lube replacements, will get temp gauges functional.
Problem is folks--try to find parts right now for a Eaton-some stuff has become hard to get. Even IPD.
You & I are neck and neck-I drove the cam bearings, installed the crank and cam yesterday. Rebuilt the accessory drive, compressor and oil cooler assemble today. Waiting on .018 liner shims. Heads are done, cam followers are done, oil pump done. What a mess straightening out the mistakes made by the person before. Wrong turbo-has to have single entry with 401C jakes can't use dual entry engine damage will result. Wrong pistons, wrong liner shims. protrusion was way high.
Yup, a quitter he is not!
I just don't get it, how does someone put that much money, time, and effort into something and screw it up so badly? Imagine if it had gotten finished and tried to start it?? Sounds like Vtechs number one and number 2 "mechanics" tried to fix it
Care to take on a 1940 Farmall M with 1949 engine? Engine had hydraulic pump, then distributor. 1940 engine had magneto. Mickey mouse mounted magneto on 1949 engine & it won't rotate far enough to time. Tried moving a tooth, that didn't work either.
Unfortunately there are many that think it's a Cummins 855 so any parts will work. This engine did run for awhile then abandoned. It's got a good block NT88, it just needed me to come along and feel sorry for it. People have a tendency to Franken Fruiter Cummins engines. Mostly they don't understand what CPL means.
Wasn't quite beaten to death, was ignored for the last days of a working life as was become sacrificial to meet a contract. Then it sat, six years, neglect is a evil thing where just a few months can steal a great deal of useful residual I just have to correct that along with the been ignored and the overall sacrifice made of it. Will get there, may not be absolutely new perfect but I believe will be a good machine in the end.
Had a boss like that for a time. The quarry company also owned a Mack dealer in PA so just about all trucks were Macks and boss had the idea that if there was a bulldogs butt sitting on the hood then everything behind it was the same!
Also, a lot of people don't like to use engine serial numbers for some unexplained reason
"Critical" Parts List
A Few pieces arrived today, the Speedo Rotor, a few small parts for cab air valve and a u-joint, Yoke was incorrect but the MHC boys located the correct one, be here tomorrow.
I have five good used yokes would have gave you one, but shipping would be more than a used one is worth, plus it probably would got lost in shipment.
Once again, WISHING I lived far Closer TS, so much available out there that does not here for some reason. Local Yards that salvage HD Class 8s here had nothing, all been sold, MHC found the correct one where it is one of three New Ones that are in system in the US as to Eaton parts locator. You are quite correct again as to Eaton parts thinning down!!
View of Business end last night, slid together as supposed to, scared me!!
I’m always nervous when things go smoothly.
Should be further ahead with this after the weekend, even as Xmas will be at this as we already had Family Xmas.
Today has been productive, So Far. Cab ride control changed, trans assembly completed, trans back under chassis, front shaft support bearing on.
Looks like a good time to change out the battery cable to 4/0 DLO, looks little sad over there. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324129954037 Terminate it with some lugs from Ancor to get the most of it. https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/Terminals-and-Lugs/Heavy-Duty-Lugs/4Or0-AWG
Are new cables, Just filthy from the cold pressure wash!! Hot cable is in a Sheath.
So rain shut much of the business down today, just busy work for now so was asked if I wanted the day off, DID NOT HAVE TO ASK Twice!! in the shop awhile. Y'all can have a laugh I righted the engine, did some paint work to those areas buried behind other stuff and set the clutch. Bores are clean and burnished, deck is not fully cleaned where will do that once set back in frame. Next up front structure then set it.
BTW, that old 2" spline shaft I swapped in a truck Many Sleeps ago, been rattling around in my toolbox since like 1983/84. Just have to remember to Rotate Counter Clockwise (Anti Clockwise for our Studious UK AU and EU friends) once get all of the assembly into position before tighten down.
An epiphany, the Yellow "Cat" paint from the Local F&H Store was TOO Yellow, as it dried became MORE Allis Yellow so HAD TO GO AWAY!!! Off to Carquest on Thursday afternoon and NEW CAT Yellow procured, it is BACK to CAT Yellow. At least has two coats now!
Looking good! Why do you rotate counter clockwise before tightening the clutch down?
If his old input shaft is like mine, the splines are beat up on the one side, so to line up the clutch, you want to bump it off the worn splines.
CO hit that nail pretty hard! Was the reason it was replaced so long ago, step wear on pull side so rotate the shaft back to set plates on Good side of Spline. Slips right in or out.
Today's progress was pretty well clean and re-install. Sleeves cleaned up well, was most concerned of Seals grooves. Tomorrow Gear Train and Front Cover, a Little MORE paint, possibly set in frame.
A little progress for today Cannot for love nor money locate the new front crank seal.
That old Input Shaft
Or slide clutch assembly on the transmission and install as a unit, only have to line up pilot. Tighten bolts through inspection cover.
Flywheel was handy accessible with engine out, did not waste that!!
I hate shoving through the splines, just me.
I hear ya, just easier for me this way.
I've got the trans out of our western star right now. I debated putting it back in with the clutch on the trans. But I went ahead and put the clutch on the engine because that's the only way I've ever done it. One of these times I'm going to get smart and do it your way, I just know the other way works, and just went ahead and shoved the clutch on there. How easy is it to start the bolts on the flywheel? I looked at the access hole and thought it looked a little small to get my hands in there and tighten those up, and I'd have to have someone else turning the engine over. Oh well, maybe next time. It sure looks easier. Clutch is a handfull to get up in there.
Total weight of assembled 15.5 clutch is 150 lbs., Even though it's not installed as a unit and because most don't have a clutch caddy and a person is in a awkward position lifting it the spine surgeon likes it. Leave flywheel in position with two mounting holes at bottom. Use shallow 12 point socket with a 7/16 lock washer pushed inside socket and a 6" extension all 3/8 drive. Position clutch cover with fork locked in then disc, intermediate plate, disc. Once transmission is bolted to rear structure line up clutch cover holes with flywheel threads. Using a 20" pry bar through inspection hole tip clutch cover slightly and start a bolt with extension and ratchet. Start the next then bar engine to start the rest working the down evenly, torque 55 lbft. Wood blocks keeping clutch depressed for installation will fall out.
Can relate CO to the Inspection Cover hole appearing too Small. Wear XXL Gloses for working in and had to locate XXL Rubber Gloves for nasty work, hands do not do well in snug or tight spots anymore.
I've seen those clutch caddy jacks and they look pretty slick. Most of the crane ones, you can put it in from the top, and its not too bad. The truck with the cab above makes it kind of tough. How would you not put the clutch in as a assembled unit? I always stack it all up on my short trans. input shaft, and muscle that sucker up there. Its getting to be more of a handful than I remember though. I've been dreaming of a adapter for the top of the floor or trans. jack.
I have a line up tool that is full spline the length, both discs are on spline I leave intermediate plate loose hanging on spline/lineup tool and two dowels screwed into flywheel to guide cover. Lift plate into notches then start bolts.
You can fish bolts in to start with socket/extension. When removing just bar engine over and gun them out. Only have to move jack back to drop trans and clutch about 5".
I will have to try the next time.
Years ago I had a pressure plate cover hang up on the lip of the flywheel mostly because the machine shop didn't put a chamfer on the inner edge when they machined it. If i had put it together as a combination with the trans during the installation, i wouldn't have caught it.
And that's a good point-But something I always check. Because if there is or was .010 machined from flywheel face there better be .010 machined from the lip.
A couple of questions . Do you guys grease your clutch brake faces? What did you use for lube on the top filler band of your sleeves? Did your front seal get put in the rear flywheel housing (just kidding) I agree with the assembling clutch on trans shaft for install. Much easier to get trans in when you’re alone. The only easier way I know is to not work on trucks! I find the hardest thing on aging shoulders is truck trans remove and install.
Had Both seals just cannot locate Front unit, gave up looking, BTW are different size. No Lube on Brake EVER, is plenty from Overzealous Grease throwers. Specs call for liquid Soap or Rubber Lube on Lower seal rings and In Lower Bore, Upper Dipped in Engine Oil just prior to install as designed to swell in place and seal.
I always smear grease on clutch brake. With most aftermarket Cummins, vegetable oil on liner o-rings LPF.
We used Crisco back years ago on Cummins Sleeve Seals and lower bores, worked well on 92DD as well.
Fluffo! There was a good recipe on the back of the can for pie crust.
MHC came thru with Front seal and a few odd other pieces, still have stuff on order but may be awhile.
So i dont know much about anything but i cant tell if you guys are been serious or not about the grease on the clutch brake? So in the spring when we torched the old one out and put a new one cause i was fed up with the truck i was given to drive we should have put grease in the brake? Care to explain more please?
Serious, HERE????
I have been greasing the brake for years. I was told it makes it last longer. Yes oil on the top filler band on sleeve. As far as I know the front and rear seal are the same size just different rotation arrows on them because they are designed to pump the oil towards the inside.
As far as lube on the liner o-rings or seals goes, i generally use whatever the manufacturer of the seals( or the applicable service manual) recommends. Usually liquid soap or vegetable oil. I would hate to use the wrong stuff and have a problem with leaking. I'm always concerned using aftermarket seals if they have used a different composition and neglected to specify what lube to use but liquid soap or vegetable oil is usually benign
Seal installer heads marked F and R due to Lip difference of inner ring best I can tell
Red front Blue rear.
I thought they used to put a rotation arrow on them but its been 15 years since i changed one
They do
Today was a dud, get to work, boss calling everyone that had If Maybe orders and only One said bring it on. Had several loads for the church to start where the Loader fella at the Quarry shuddered as he told him needed three loads apiece for two trucks, went to Fill Rock pile and his 844K damned near did a wheel stand on the fronts as hit the pile, NO Dent. He worked the Frozen skin until popped and worked to access heart of pile so got our six total loads. Done with that by 9, back to yard pull damn negative Cables AGAIN to reboot the damned processor AGAIN as lost gauges at a 1/2 mile off lot. Got the single load, to my sheep herding neighbor, 2" base and actually asked the loader operator to do as did with the other pile for something usable. Dump the 20t total in three separate piles and back to the yard. All caught up, nothing else on the plate and no room in the shop as three other drivers cleaning their machines so clocked out. Got home and back to the shop. Actually a fruitful day. Front Seal done, mounts complete, dragged WP and Damper out to paint up where cleaned and hung the painted the Filter head adaptor and the base for Oil Pressure and Atmospheric pressure sensor , painted both on block. Wild hair set trans and have it hanging on 4 bolts at top lip, will be replacing Most if not all of the mounting bolts.
Frozen ground in MO? That's surprising to me. Here in VT we expect rock hard frozen a month ago. This year the bigger problem is mud. We dug a ditch a month ago, never have raked it over, can't even stand on it. My boots sink 6" deep walking across the mess. No wet while placing conduit, but at the surface a quagmire, of course it rained every other day for a week. We had another small scale dig planned yesterday, snow, sloppy roads, steep road, I decided against it. Right here at home there is so little moisture in the ground, I once dug a 45' x 30' 7' deep hole for an addition in the coldest winter with a backhoe. Only thing frozen was me.
Mo has a big range of temps. I'm right on the southern border, and we rarely see frozen ground, at most a inch or two. The northern stretch is much more like a iowa or nebraska temp range. When I lived in central iowa, it wasn't unusual that Kansas City temps were actually lower than ours. Weather comes across the plains and if the jet stream swoops down across the dakotas, it tends to sit right on that area.
Have had no snow to insulate the ground, been brutal bitter cold single digits at night and only to 20s daytime with heavy cloud cover. Maybe next week will all break loose. Even at the Clay Pit up north of here the kid on the loader could not break crust in many places, called him off as well.
Damper is back on, WP is awaiting a new mounting seal ring, installed odds and ends on L Side while also got shifter and counterweight back together with shift air lines reconnected and clutch linkage reconnect.
We dug today. Last night it was 0. the frozen was only sod deep, 2" at most. Generators arriving more this week, more digging to come. I've seen frozen ground 7' deep here! Might not be global warming, but Vermont warming is very real.
Another at it day. Took Wife to Breakfast at local Church offering, then off to weekly shopping at the Wally World. Back to house by noon and onto the project. Swapped front shaft u-joint, cleaned and painted tube set that aside. Went after as much small crap as could muster. Have another mass of small **** to clean/paint, organize before reinstall.
This may have been said already. It sucks that you had to tear it back down when you were so close. But I think that you can take some joy in doing so. Because it looks so good now. I can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for sharing this. It's good to know that these types of setbacks can happen to anyone.
Yup, I thought it was only me, & I'm too embarrassed to admit them.
I had one not too long ago as well. Sucks when things dont go right, but all you can do is regroup, learn, and move on. Engine is looking sharp Dave, keep up the good work.
Have had setbacks in the past, being almost anal in having to determine the cause for my own peace of mind. Not ashamed to show the issues as part of wrenching is chasing these.
SLOW Day today at work, 11 loads screenings to a set foundation, had to stop due to thawing and mud dragging to street in Town. Done at 11:30 so back to yard as also had a DPF Regen Warning lamp but will NOT actuate for regen off dash switch, parked all switches in Normal, and brakes set no pedals actuated. Went to shop, none of mekaniks trucks on yard, did notice two tub sets still on yard but is slow, asked boss and COVID for All Five. Off work at noon so stripped radiator and off to CoMO to Hager's Radiator, will have estimates next couple days. Will not hold to the initial price as said MAY be able to recore (WITH Labor) at roughly $1500, I cannot buy and ship in a core for $1500. Wife texted, 1/4 their staff is out now with Covid, 12 employees out. EEEK!! and ICK!!!! Also ordered what SHOULD be remaining parts to complete reconstruct. Decided Rods shells were subjected to too much, Been inspected twice on three rods, been Crushed at least three times on those, just no warm fuzzy for these.
Back to small stuff today, trans fully bolted up, torque spring in place, found broken or cut wiring on L Frame rail so will get back into that. Mix of miscellaneous materials installed getting more Out Of My Way for the larger pieces to be installed, IE Pistons and rods then lower end completion, get it ready to reset the head. ALL takes time. Will need to re-end harness for Engine Sensors, hard to plug M-M or F-F so the Harness side will get changed for Sensor Plugs.
Busy morning Corrected harness connectors reused one I removed then got to setting pisscans and cooler jets, did install new rod shells. Those are set and torqued.
Glad it is coming together.
MAYBE will see smoke and hear roar by Mid February. And Tnx!!
not to add more to the list but i believe if it were me doing that job i`d take a good look at the foot brake valve while most every thing is out of the way
Did that earlier, No leaks, application seems up to snuff when had running prior or when had outside source tied to it.
Doc visit this morning so took day off. This was next and then Dentist called had a cancellation so I took the opening moving next week appointment up. Oil pump reinforcement plate and tubes up, head cleaned up spacer plate cleaned up dressed up block and sat head. No head bolts in yet.
Update Head is torqued
And back at it early this morning May be time to take a break and let the dog out awhile. Cam is in time backlash set, injectors in, rockers on and torqued, deloused alternator/ac bracket some. Have some small details to work on but awaiting radiator anyway, mainly a small plate for rear harness hole. Was 5F as started this morning just now into teens. Shop is a balmy 40ish.
Is that a Kysor fan hub?
Horton I touched up paint on it actually masked off the remains of the labels.
Guess who called today!!
Replaced OE three core with four, little price difference.
You are absolutely on a roll !!! Keep it up
Busy all day Loads of small stuff getting done Need to scrub and repaint the actual valve covers, also need to replace the 1/2npt lower rad pipe drain plug nothing here for it. Pan is on and 7 gallon in it so far, awaiting turbo Orings and gaskets to complete for pressure lube.
Another Surprise this morning Should have cleaned these better earlier Epoxy was flaking so popped the lifted Cover is cracked however anyone managed the from the Inside out.
Not real Purty but considerably better than buying another cover
Only thing that used to be near that point was IVA All Gone now so not a clearance issue.
Its aluminum, so if it was mine i would tig weld it just for the fun of it
You must have posted your weld repair as i was typing my weld comment
Yep No TIG in house but do have a wire feed. Already finished clean with brake clean so solvent tight test complete, paint on! Other two already on.
That engine is looking sharp!
OOhhh Boy! I am on the edge of my seat waiting for the first puff of smoke to roll out. Looking good Dmiller.
Coolant in drain tub is back in, the driver side is basically all back together got the harness repair at the side of the trans completed and front drive shaft back up. Calling it a day. Then wouldn't ya know it this rolled out from under a pile WAY back in the back.
Off work early yesterday, MSHA safety day at the shop requirement annual training and a Insurance rep talk on how well/bad we are doing on the roads. Got home and managed a little more assembly. Meeting some old workmates for breakfast then back at this today see if can have running Tomorrow.
Today was a Taste Better than had been. Got to where could get the engine started, Vid is loading to YT and will be awhile. Engine sounds SAWEEEET!!!!!! Oil pressure over 80# cold, with Dr Sh still down put it in 3rd gear and YES the Speedo DOES Function! Air will not build above 90# so have to look into that.
Engine brake functioned, NO ECM alarms just the PB Brake Bressure warning. Ran for ten minutes and shut it down to eat a bite, more detail work to accomplish in between.
YES!
Good new Mr Miller!
Woohoo! Can't wait to see the YouTube video
Hoping this plays
Stills of the moments
Sounds great and looks sharp!
Awesome!!!
Finally-sound good DM.
Might just be a worry wart here but I would get that double box end wrench off the top of the batteries before it has a chance to short something out! Otherwise sounds good and the oil pressure sure looks good, actually hope it drops a little bit once oil is warmed up!
Sharp eye KS.
Dmiller, could not be happier for you hearing that girl run! Great job working through everything, personally that must feel like a big win. Maybe you should crack open a bottle of something dark and have a toast to you and the old girl!
Oil pressure once closer to NOPNOT was pretty well below 90 even at top end, never dropped below 65/70 on the low end. I am QUITE satisfied. Wrench was a JIC should starter hang or have something electrical run amok, it was moved off where was situated by N Cable. Was pretty well determined was GOING to Have it running before Groundhog Day, No Repeats again HERE!!!!
Pleased for you DM. It’s been a long road.
Long road NO Miles!!! Still correcting all the little sags and deficits, brackets corroded away, small strap retainers wiring fixes, fuel return cross connect valve decided to start leaking yesterday. Today will clean up some in the shop, supposed to get evil wintry mix come Wednesday and Thursday so will try to get the old Allis farm tractor inside a WARM building, it does NOT appreciate Cold.
Sounds appropriate.
Great pick. Etta is a personal favorite.
Actually got my workshop Heated side opened up for the tractor, would NOT start, sounds like bad battery so as soon as my Genny/Welder battery is full up(Already started it to MAKE CERTAIN will run if needed), then will take charger to barn along with a 1000A booster pack.
Well the Orange BEETCH is in the shed!! Snug fit. Will deal with that tomorrow as test batteries and chain install, will move the work bench back over top of extra block. Old ragged tractor ALWAYS been a bear to start just in Cool weather, cold it despises!! Blade is a 9' Deere 88 series.
well certainly looks like some good news for the week
I can tie any occasion in life to a song, in fact when I see things happening or I'm doing something a song will pop up in my head such as it is.
DM, I wish i had your milling machine
I can almost smell the new paint burning off.
It runs! A sweet sound indeed!
And even better the oil pressure is right up there!
Well Snowmageddon is supposed to happen starting late tonight into tomorrow then repeat on Thursday, rain changing to sleet changing to ice changing back to sleet then snow its butt off. Predictions are anywhere from 8-12" snow as finish Friday. So we will be Off Work, where I set in some additional supplies. Gonna go for the rear suspension and start rear brakes. Will undoubtedly need seals but big stuff is here.
Since the cheap overhaul boat sailed long ago might as well pull the hubs and check the bearings and replace the seals. Bob
Bearings are coming down.
What was the price on those 1657VB drums, just checking price there and here.
104 each MHC guys have been kind to a old man!!
How much difference TS, Here to there, and I know you all are a high flow shop!
Just as a heads up on the brakes, I damned near cannot buy pads, rotors, exchange calipers and misc crap as park brake shoes for my old Ford as I just bought for this truck drums and shoes. Chambers take it over. $54 each on chambers, $104 each on drums, $53 each exchange stop boxes so just over $800 with steer diaphragms.
Drums $91.00, Shoes with kits $43.00, Piggy back 3030 $29.74, Complete 3030 $42.55.
Bulk often purchase discounts are sweet.
After snow duty back to the wagon The rears are down Shoes looked OK except the rust jacking and rusted to anchor pivots Insp covers are now all gone one was already missing. Next up the suspension pieces and chambers as all those get in the way of each other. Then will start the flailing on the axles, wedge locks.
All the while the Snowplow sits for the next duty
Air bags are rust jacked the worse for suspension parts, several upper end caps are set to a off angle now. Still working up methods to remove the studs WHEN they do not give. Get Chambers off and bags next, then shocks. Get shocks back on then bags then chambers and finish brake work. Airlines can be installed after hubs and drums back in place. Also have to do Cam inspections, Cleanup so knurled rollers WILL roll.
Shouldn't have wedge locks.
Locknut what appears a flat washer and then a thicker ‘washer’ appears lightly tapered, sure looks to be 1/2” cone heads. 46k Eatons
Should be 5/8" studs with nothing more than {AN} washers.
I could ONLY hope. Will be pulling nuts in morning.
I love that AG 460 suspension but hate the airline connection at the bag. The nut rusts to the pipe and the flats are a little rounded off for some reason. They take a 32 mm wrench and sometimes WILL NOT come loose without destroying the nut or pipe. Heat and penetrating oil help but we keep a couple spare hoses. Most of the time I will cut the pipe off the end of the old hose by cutting the outer crimp off therefore saving the hose and double hose clamping the new one on after removing it from the new hose the same way unless both ends are shot and then I replace the whole thing. It will make sense after finagling the whole assembly through both frame holes which is a Chinese puzzle in itself. A lot of times the bottom stud is seized in the bore of the axle bracket and takes an air hammer to get it to move. The good news is those airbags last forever compared to the AG 100 old style 8 bag Kenworth air ride, but that makes them harder to change when the time comes!
How about the bottom shock studs?
You win, those are worse...
I don't know if there worse but a pita.
4.5” cut off wheels and a gas axe have their good place in life!!
As a pleasure bonus I am off work due to weather shut down managed to catch Covid over last weekend. Symptoms started Monday/ late Sunday then intensified Tuesday where wife beat me down and went in for a PCR test, turned Positive. Pretty well like a bad sinus head cold with body aches. Vicks vaporub at various times, acetaminophen(tylenol apf), Sudefed by prescription and my normal vitamins seem to keep it at bay. Loads of liquids.
Good luck dealing with Covid. I've been home all week with it too. My employee called in sick last week, then calls me that night and said he had it. I tested last Friday and was positive too. I had one really nasty day, otherwise it's been a bad head cold like you said. Two of my kids and my wife ended up with it too. The kids had a dumpy day, then bounced right back; wife has gone through most of what I did, but getting better.
Stay at it as that is what many have found kept them alive was moving about not letting the crud get you down. Kids seem to bounce faster/easier, systems response is faster better than us old codgers!! Actually feeling some relief today not near as achy as got up this morning but been sleeping more too. Nose is running Out more than in now so could be a sign I am flushing the crud, appetite been off a few days(WILL Not hurt my fat ass) but felt hungry this morning as different. Be back in the shop in about an hour or so.
Yep 5/8” but also cone heads
Wow-early axles, what are those doing there?
No kidding. One cone split cross section, that was obnoxious getting out, one other scattered to the far side of shop, have to find it.
Had to take the psychosomatic wife to the docs office for a Covid test, even as she took a rapid test yesterday and negative. Have ordered all new nuts for the studs, all manner of fubar, washers seem ok, local parts house has some cone wedges in inventory and are getting me a 4" hex axle nut socket.
Another thought for ya TS, Aluminum Hubs. Thought all had gone back to steel now?
Nice to see you got it running again. Hopefully there was a glass of whiskey afterwards to celebrate. My 2005 W900 has aluminum hubs.
Was a TALL Glass
Last hub I got from the junkyard, I had to dig through their tub of hubs to get a steel one that was the right hub. I'd say their tub of hubs was about 1/2 and half, steel and aluminum. They can have those aluminum ones, I want steel. Also glad to see you got it running.
Been ConMet aluminum hubs for the last 25 plus years, Weight. Air Disc hubs are aluminum.
Got the shocks off, Gas Axe on lower and Cut off wheel upper nut, wacked the air lines atop the bags, started removing bolts then the parts house called. Picked up my stuff then helped the wife make dinner. All started changing Covid Side last night, slathered with Vicks, hour later could not smell it. Nose ran like a open faucet so blowing nose and filling kleenex until after 4 this morning, light fever still then slipped off to sleep. Up at just before 5, slathered more Vicks, NO smell of Menthol, stuck nose in jar, NADA. Ate some toast. Worked on the snow for a bit then in the shop stopped for lunch, wife made Bologna sammitchs, mine with Pepper Cheese and Mustard, only thing could taste was Bologna and that weak. Dinner and made Mostaccioli, watched her dressing up the sauce as usual with Garlic and Italian Seasoning, pasta got done made a salad put Imo's Creamy Dressing on it and fixed a bowl of pasta. Only thing could taste was pasty pasta and tomato paste, Salad had No flavor at all even with cheese on it. Was done pretty quick. Tried a Chips Ahoy cookie, got nothing but flour coated chocolate flavor. Gonna be a BAD Diet.
I hope it's not to hard on you Dave. It went through our house last November. Vaccinated or not, we all got it. Wasn't too bad really. Lots of tylenol, don't let the fever get going, and lots of fluids. Pedialyte helps. Take care.
keep a tight rein on that stuff D it can be a real bitch
Hope it runs it's course fast and no long term effects. Hang in there!
Me and my whole family got it two weeks ago, it was pretty mild for us fortunately. Headaches, runny noses, mild fevers, hacking up crud. Two days of not feeling great then pretty much ok. Double wide is right, stay on top of it. My wife and older son are vaccinated, the other 4 of us are not, I couldn't see a difference.
Seems to be running out, nose running is slowing though still have a sinus headache I do not have the full body aches or a basic headache. Temp is hanging right at 98.7 with nothing taken to counter, normal for me is around 97.8. Taste and Smell is still off, coffee this morning has little value of comforting flavor. I am double jabbed just NO Booster, wife lost her sense of taste and smell A LITTLE last night, she has had all three jabs. Her PCR screen should be complete by tomorrow afternoon.
Just found out why the waitress, Jenn, at the diner we stop at on Sunday mornings has been missing the last few weeks. She was there this morning and said her son came home from school a few weeks back and gave her a big hug then said "Mom I don't feel good!" A couple days later Jenn tested positive. She has recovered pretty good and has tested as free of Covid now.
If I have gotten Covid I sure haven't noticed it. Wife works in the ER, one of her coworkers is dead from it 3 others have tested positive from it that she works with and everyone that has Covid and is bad enough goes through her to get checked in. Either dumb luck or naturally immune from it thought about getting a test to see if I ever gotten it recently. Hope you recover and don't become a long hauler DMiller, is this your first time?
I had it mid summer it wasnt good it took about 3 weeks to get over the worst part. I tested positive but i didnt need a test to know i had it. The first 3 days i didnt think i would live through it. I have had some friends die from it that i thought were in great shape. One thing i truly believe is if you get it you need to set back and take it easy its not like other stuff were if you keep working you will get over it. I would bet any thing that 2 of my buddies would steal be alive if they would have treated there first symptoms more seriously.
One aspect has been noted to me by my Doc and others that had this, DO NOT LAY DOWN. Stay UP stay at Something, keep the fluids flowing not settling. So far that is working. Is the first episode of the Crud but not too awful as of yet.
So today was Not 'Just Another Day'. Got all the rear chambers off, gonna have to replace Slacks too, then got the Bags all off and new units rolled into place. Wouldn't you know it the First bolt and Last bolt I chose to pull for length were ODDBALL to the rest, have 2 3" 2 2.5" and the remainder 2" x 1/2 USS, I have WAY too many 2.5" and no way to shim the nuts Properly so will by a dozen tomorrow. As to the Rest of This Conundrum, I ran into the Oddest Wheel bearing on a Driver I have EVER run across, Never seen one first with a HOLE Type Lock ring then a Tab lock then find what has the appearance of a Crush Sleeve, Bearings are Likely a Matched Set as the Inner Cone has NO Numbers. Outer is a ODD Number. Seal ALSO NO Numbers. And this little Sonsabich!! NOT Ever had one do that!!!
I hadn't ever seen those sleeves that fit between the bearings until I went to the junkyard looking for a replacement hub. I guess all the new trucks use them, I'm sure its easier on the factory line to just throw that in and not have to worry about having the bearings set right. I pitched the one that came with the replacement hub I got. I just got bearings/seal at fleetpride and set them like I always have. Truckshop probably used to have to deal with them all the time, until he got all progressive and went to all air disc, which eliminated most of his maintenance time.
Also- sorry to hear you aren't feeling well. I got sick about 3 weeks ago- had 3 days of headache and sore throat and thought - great that's over. Wrong. I've spent since then with a runny nose and plugged up sinus. And I just haven't felt very good. Every time I think I'm over it for a couple hours, it comes back. I'm not really that sick- I just can't seem to get rid of it.
May as well test PCR is not hard, takes moments but will be 24-48 hours end results my sinus take periods run like a sewer next are dry as popcorn, no rhyme or reason Lost taste and smell kinda sucks but dealing. been taking sudafed once a day then regular vitamins I take and Tylenol APF helps greatly.
Amazing. Our place you do the swab test in the morning and they call you with the results in the evening. Even more amazing is that this past Thursday our Chief Minister announced that all requirements for testing & quarantine would end on or before March 31st. From that point on it’s up to each individual to manage their own risks as they see fit. https://www.manxradio.com/news/isle...-people-to-make-their-own-decisions-on-covid/ https://www.manxradio.com/news/isle...-to-endemic-approach-to-living-with-covid-19/
I see it going that way everywhere fairly soon. I know a lot of people who ended up with Covid since Christmas, both from vaccinated and unvaccinated camps, and all have had symptoms that match a cold to mild flu. If covid wasn't in the spotlight like it is, I wouldn't have bothered testing myself and probably would have worked most of the days because I only had mild symptoms (cough, runny nose). Many I have met that had it, had a very similar experience. I still think those with a compromised immune system are a high risk, though they were high risk for any illness that already existed anyways. Hope you guys get to feeling better soon. Nobody likes being sick, no matter how mild the symptoms.
Feel a little better daily, just wish food had some taste to it.
In our case something like 96% of the population aged 12+ are vaccinated with close to 80% having had a booster dose. It doesn’t appear as though there is much more that the authorities can do at that point.
the only thing that tasted right to me when i had it was orange juice non concentrated
While statistics show a sharp decline in my corner of the nation after the huge surge from the holidays, I'm seeing a major surge in my circle of people. Numerous people I have contact with have contracted the virus. My friend a state away, married to a hospital employee, at first saw it as overblown with too much publicity. Not subscribing to the fraud belief, just seeing this as no different than the flu we have every year, he felt the world was overreacting. Before the vaccine was available, he had a mild heart attack. A month later, he contracted Covid-19. A year & change later, his whole extended family, all vaccinated, got the new variant. The often repeated story is you are still going to get it, but your suffering will be reduced.
Worst this morning was coffee tasted like Stale Water, no coffee flavor at all, eerie. Work called off again today, frost is out under the snow so NOTHING going Off Road rock hauls or anything today, MAYBE tomorrow.
I couldnt do any thing but survive and do what had to be done while i had the covid but i had times were i felt fine then later i felt bad agin. I dont understand why it effects some like it does. I dont think my immune system is all that great i seem to catch every thing easy but i know guys that i thought were healthyer than me died from it. To me the covid is some way different stuff than has ever been around its hard to understand. I had brain fog bad my brother told me 2 weeks after he had it he didnt fill very good about driving.
I have worked on trucks with the sleeve between the bearings i like it better and think it is a better deal.
Got the Conversion seal number this morning, Thanks TS. Found the Seal 'Package' required to buy to keep the Preset Preload is GINORMOUS$$ so going back conventional. Tube along with seal system is replaced as a Unit, not certain if changes nuts and lock ring styles but expense PER Hub was Three Figures.
It still amazes me that there are people out there who can't understand the fact that a person who is vaccinated can still get it, the only upside is that the symptoms are milder and it doesn't hang around as long. My youngest grandaughter aged 8 had it early last year even before vaccines were around and was down for quite a while. She got it again last week and from testing positive to testing negative was only 3 days..........
The early protorque series had a pos of a self locking nut-known to fail. I changed every one I found to the standard two nut locking washers system {zero problems} The later style with two snap rings for safety is not a problem and re-useable. That whole Stemco ConMet bearing package with seal and cone was/is a great way to sell parts. A rip off.
Not to create a **** show but last fall this happened in my shop. Truck pulls into shop driver was way to close wouldn't stat away from I or Jeff. I told him to back off and or put a mask on-he refused to do either. I called the office told the boss to get over to shop. We have a policy. The boss told him to either get out of the shop, stand 20' feet away or put a mask on. He said he didn't have to and there was nothing anybody could do about it. Boss asked me when the truck would be done. He told the driver I can't have you risking the health of Mike or Jeff we depend on them heavily. Plus it's policy. Mike, Jeff get it done asap, drive it out side so he can get his **** out of it. So and So your done your fired.
I seem to recall you telling this story at the time.
I don't know may have, try not to get involved with this subject. my short term memory is not so good anymore.
So and So needed fired!! Air bags on with shocks all tight, Getting the supply lines laid out to relax a bit before enter the Chinese Puzzle Torture game and get those installed.
As a Side Note, was notable Rust Jacking Bag Head to Frame, that got chipped and Beaten away until solid material, where used Black Rustoleum to seal those areas back up and POSSIBLY aid to slow the recurrence, Bag over Axle Arms show that.
Those air lines go through the big holes in the frame by the bag?
When we bought new KW's {T800's} some years back, as part of the process of getting them outfitted I took the air fittings loose at each air bag and coated them with anti-seize. If we had a bag go bad later down the road those fittings spun apart.
Yes, can see one hole and the remains of the previously cut away lines. Front Bag hose feeds Front bag on other axle, Same for Rear bag Hose. Are cross connected at the back where the 1/4" air feed Ts into the rear lines then jumpers to the Fronts at 1/8" NPT ports from a single leveling valve. And YES TS, these will be Gooped with Anti Seize when I assemble them. Hope I never have to replace a Bag on this again. The ones on it appeared OE or at least all installed roughly same point of time.
What is the life of an airbag? Is it more simply a time thing or wear and tear.
A lot goes into that Sun cooking ozone damage much as a tire, Loaded and overloaded miles where bag is more heavily inflated Bad roads cyclic failure of bag convolution, damage increases with time Failure of sub components as shocks add to cyclic fails, damaged brackets change service angles and loading Time in General for the elastic component Final is unavoidable as to tire failures, road debris impacts, loose truck components impingement, lacking being kept clean of general road debris. Rubber compounds are better where a decent life of ten years is great, anything beyond a plus, premature fails of bad constructs or rough handling can occur without warning. This truck is a 05 built 04 so coming to 22 years old. Including time here was off the path for some seven years so bags had only surpassed that ten year mark by a couple.
OOPSIE of Time line!! 18 years Old!!
Old bags were still holding air but not for long with the cracking and exposing of cording. Loads more pieces arrived today, will be a hard weekend of constructing.
Guess should have practiced a few days in a barrel of razor blades, but managed to get the Air Bag lines swapped, as well the PS Hoses(ALL) two front drive slack adjusters and chambers but have to order more Bendix Cam Retainer E-clips. Hands are a Taste SORE! Tomorrow starting with Cab ride height, then moving back to rear drive brake chambers and slacks., have that fuel return flow valve and lines to set then maybe the rear forward drive shaft. MANY MANY nylon ties and clamps for the Air lines but ALL Four are set anti-seized and tight. e
Brake Cans and Slacks all on, First Axle Seal complete and Brakes on that axle. Back 1/2 of Front Drive Line back in. Mainly getting excess stuff out of the way for other details.
Still have to reclock the Back Cans, need about 30-45 degree off Square for lines. Looked to the Cab ride height valve, gonna have to order the feedback rod, Rust jacking took it. Just not in the mood for the fuel lines today as the Bendix E Clips for Cam to Slacks all but one self destructed.
Tomorrow is a Hallmark day, I achieve another Birthday, old as dirt and about twice as Coarse. Was my Mother's Valentine Present that year, also her worst nightmare from then forward. Saw me hit by car at three, saw me abused by our Dad routinely, saw me get into some of the most DARING issues a young lad could ever then to join the US of Army and end up a HE wrench bender. May even entertain returning to Retired later this year.
Well Happy Early Birthday!! Wife had hers yesterday which works for me, I can get Valentines and her birthday gift in one go. Though lucky me also, she doesn't celebrate and hates Valentines Day though on same note I bought her set of tools for her birthday, she doesn't want the marble and tile or pearls and diamonds either.
Happy birthday!
Thanks
you`ve done alright looks like still got all the fingers with a few scars. hope the wuflu is`nt kickin to hard and happy birthday
WUFLU is pretty well done, still have sinus drainage and tickling cough cannot shake but all else is gone. Loads of Scars, Road maps of Bad Days on Dirt Roads!!!! Defined History for me. BTW, Thanks All.
Happy Birthday. Got the wife making cake? Don't burn the house down with all those candles.
Could light up Central MO and set off EPA alerts with all these candles!!
I have a feeling you are like me regarding scars. For the most part you really have to look and know where they are to find them. Just now I was looking at the back of left hand and trying to find an sign of a scar from the time I hit a piece of sheet metal riding motorcycle in field. Recall being able to see all the tendons on the back of the hand. Just a couple brandades and good to go. Other people I know could get a mosquito bite ten years ago and still see the mark today!
Don't know how we go with different time zones, but happy birthday DM.
Happy Birthday
Happy birthday Dave, misery loves company so I have been enjoying your thread! Here is one we are swapping the engine in, a 2006 W900B. The old Cat was tired so we sent another one we had squirreled away to Cat to rebuild, $43,000 later we got a motor to put in. It needed most everything but they sure know how to charge. I have done a few in house but we don't have that kind of time these days. It took a while longer then we thought because there were no platinum kits anywhere, there was over 1000 on back order at one point. Radiator is being gone through and replacing everything rubber. Hopefully will have it back on the road in a couple days.
Happy Birthday Mr DM!!
ACERT as My own once was. Clean Work you do!!
I do scar pretty easily, Bohemian ancestry, Olive Skin even as shows Stark White above. Most of my older more prominent scars are close to forty years old yet skin does Hair Over pretty quick and scabs often gone in less than two weeks.
Had 4 friends driving across the border to Canada ice fishing the other day. We are required to have a negative Covid test within 3 days of travel. One of the 4 guys tested positive. He felt fine but called his doctor for treatment advice. His doc told him to go back to Walgrens where he had got the test and get a retest. After explaining that the doc sent him back for a retest, the same technician retested, and he was negative. The doc said that up to 30 percent of these rapid nasal tests can be wrong. He is now fishing in Canada.
The carp are biting any time of the year.
Would that be Grass, Asian or Booger Lip carp???
Booger Lip.
I suspect someone is blowing coffee thru their nose currently!!
Our Nastiness this morning, this was at 0915 four miles from the house and a HOUR after it started. I just want to congratulate whatever genieass developed this little $25 gem, why did we not have one of these when Anchorless brakes FIRST came out close to FORTY years ago??
Can you show how it works? I have never seen one. I have a tool for installing and removing the spring across the s cam but it doesn't look anything like that, it is kind of a pain also.
Will get a Pic today Assemble all the S cam end including rollers & return spring and swing the shoes onto axle. This tool sets the anchor end springs and pretty well painlessly.
I have wanted to try some kind of a tool but most are around $50.00 and i dont want to gamble. I have saw some guys using a forked rod i have thought about making one. Are your new springs the kind were they just have a spring on one end instead of a spring on each end?
Tried to locate a Youtube video showing the tool in use, but with the millions of crapy videos on all kinds of dumb stuff could not find one showing that tool in use!
This was on the site where I bought from, anchor end springs I have are Spring on one end and offset arm at the other end I am supposing is designed for this tool as fit it like a glove, the KW has Single Anchor Pivot point. It does not try to roll when doing this and really is a gem as to ease of use. Are all manner of these out there from $23 to $150 but ALL work the Same.
Ended up had to stop for the day, will not be setting shoes until later this weekend as MORE **** decided to erupt as tapped out ate up ABS Speed sensors (MORE Rust jacking and damage at those). Patience wore REALLY thin so walked away.
Today was as anger subsided back to work Sensor weldment L side was split R side was loose to spindle. Both repaired will split bolt 80 grit hone them with a drill as put sensors back in.
A set of brake spring pliers like one below only slightly modified is what I use daily. It's the best and only tool to use on 4702Q dual web drop and steer axle shoes. On 4702Q's one of the anchor springs the inboard one is located inside the shoe web and the anchor pins the shoe rides on is fixed to the spider.
Having REALLY GOOD luck with this new fangled monster, the Stop Box anchor springs work AWESOME on this little bugger.
I’ll be buying one of those ASAP. Thank You
I'm not a doctor, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn once. Seriously, We wired Taconic Spine. They do amazing things. In my case, discs lose some of their internal pressure. The nerves pass out of the spinal column through notches each side. As vertebrae settle closer they pinch nerves. Exercise helped me a lot. Muscles keep things aligned better. Another fix is arthroscopic. they lazer the bone where it squeezes nerve to make more room.
Columbia Ortho here is the instructors for many others across the nation Doc I see actually designed the inserts in my neck. His take was after reducing the stenosis some that arthritis has taken solid control of my spine, not much can realistically be done for any considered length of time.
Replaced bearings and races on LFDr, got the remaining three hubs as well the ABS Speed Sensors back on, had to stop as wife have a Snowmaggeddon moment and had me go out get some 'Stuff' to appease her for the next few days. I am off as boss does not like having us deal with materials frozen in the beds or on snow or ice, Never reached 20 here today, snow squalls all afternoon but little accumulation So Far. Tomorrow, Tie down sensor wiring, install axles and fill hubs(Plugs DID come loose easy enough), hang brakes and drums, get wheels on then air the beast up and release Parking brake, check for leaks, remove caging bolts adjust Service Brakes and leak check apply Service Side. Set Park brake, shut all down, Move on to Fronts. Will be installing Singles for now, Outboard so when does warm some can paint frame areas. Also need to leak check Bags And BTW, the sensors did install easily but snugly after repairing the Weldments and clearing the rust in them.
You There Stop What Your Doing---------------are you going to use approved ABS cable clips? I have to add---crane operator will stop by and check up
Already bought a Bag of them.
No way- I'm in awe of his precision work. I've never put a torque wrench on a axle nut socket. I own a big torque wrench, and have a odd assortment of axle sockets, but the two have never met in my shop. I've even been known not to have the right axle nut, and (I can't believe I'm admitting this) used a channelock or even worse-a chisel to get things moving. I'm that guy.....
The last one that we didnt have a socket for one of the guys made one. I like the torque wrench but i could write a very thick book on the different ways guy put on axle nuts. One thing i always do is on bearings that run in oil is put a coat of grease on them.
Parts guy at MHC got me Seal Kits with the Conmet Sleeve for half what I was originally quoted so went with them and torque is 500#, all rolled good when brought to torque. Took me like FOREVER to get the Blue Glue off the Left Rear, arseholes that use a half a tube to seal a flange and yet DID NOT Clean off the old gasket remains should be beaten with their tools. That was the ONLY one Blue Snotted. Got rears fully assembled and adjusted uncaged Maxi's then set it back on its own shoes. Pulled R Fr down to see where I need to go there, UGLY!! Gonna get replacement Guide/retainer Springs for shoes as well kits, drums and seals and replacement hub caps. Bags NO Leaks, Parking Side NO Leaks, thought heard a Service Side leak but have to get wife in the cab to find it. MAYBE a hose or a Relay valve. Adjusted Cab Ride Height while was at it, bunk boot still wrinkles pretty much in Up Position
That tool for brake springs came about with the 4709 second generation shoe. Those springs can be tough but I can still hang them with brake pliers. Pull right one down and left one up to hook with coiled end opposite. Those steer shoes still have another trip to L.A. left in them.
that gap in the lining is to let the heat out one the steep downgrades!
I have a pair of those Pliers On The Way BTW!!
BTW! CPP! SRS! RCG! CRS! LOL!
Front hubs down Conmet as well Started to change the diaphragms & cans just crumbled. SO, at end of day Already Parts to be here Wednesday or Thursday next week. At least shoes ready to go back.
nice.
as to the Order, getting Chambers, Shoe kits, Shoe hold down and alignment Springs, Seal Kits, hub caps (NOT Plastic ones), Drums.
Today did some cleanup around the wagon, got the chambers off the front but need some cutoff wheels to finish the bolts for that right one that self destructed, Pulled up some wiring at the Drives to see what I need do there, will be considerable and then said enough for the day. These were the two bearings I replaced in LF DR Hub, never could fingernail any of the marks, just far enough said NOPE not staying. And pic of my Bag of ABS Clips, somewhere in here have a bag of Doubles with a Electric slot between as well.
I have been following your project for months. You certainly started with something that was worn out. Keep at it.
All trucks are worn out.
Soon as they haul one load are on the way to worn slick.
First turn of the key, down hill slide-everything engine powered is doomed.
Just Machines, Buy em, Run em, Work em and then rebuild em!!!
Can honestly say been around a few machines that sat too long, this one is typical. Sitting is harder than working, mechanisms seize up, rust buckles parts as do not move to dislodge it, elastomer components just rot in place, anodic corrosion takes hold especially with power sources removed
Urban decay.
Big day Brakes completed hubs all assembled and topping fronts off. Pulled it out on its own power cleaned the floor as it sat at 1200rpm and got to Regulator opening, never got warm enough to trip fan. All back inside after a little Stern Surgery.
Nice DM!
Thanks
Now I can settle in on some Wiring and detail work awhile. Serious rain with colder temps for next week, get details up to par and may get the hood installed next weekend then work on its wiring.
Will it fit inside with the hood on?
Yes, just cannot Open is Inside!!
Once it made 170+/- degrees, at idle the engine still had 50lbs engine Oil pressure, raised to just under 80 at 1200
Likely no one noticed, cleaned facial area of front hubs as readied to reassemble. Knocked off loose crap then repainted black so will not be getting baby moons, really dislike that stuff. Aluminum oil caps replaced the black plastic ones.
I have a scrap can full of that-moons and lug covers, lug covers just rust wheel studs, moons no one checks hub oil.
Guys at work that have never wrenched asked me Why i was checking hub oil, they consider it as to the seal failing to tell them is not enough oil. I pulled Moons off the Dump Truck Steer and Drop axles the day I was issued it. I PREFER knowing is enough oil or that a seal is starting to go by lowering levels.
Back when first got shopped. Shoulda woulda coulda maybe have built building 10' Deeper and 3' Higher if not 20' Longer!!!!
The ‘Shop’ was not once considered as to ever having a Semi Tractor repaired in it. Was to be my little tractor repair shed but evolved some.
You never have a big enough shop till you try to heat it pay for it or pay taxes on it.I hope to build 1 more shop and i plan on 30x30 or 30x40 but i dont plan on working on any thing bigger than my C70.
My own is 30x48, fully insulated and heated on one side as is split 30x30 and 30x18. 40x60 would have done well here and now with a Heated side of 40x20 and a 40x40 essentially open bay but Drive through doors on Both Sides. Height is my big enemy currently with only a 10' tall door where a 14' would have been essential for these taller machines as well a 15-16' ceiling height.
Managed to back door onto site on my phone PC just will not let me thru have managed to tidy up quite a lot of frame tie downs for wiring and lines, fuel lines are fully anchored and placed, got the ABS frame side ends soldered in so RF and LR sensors can speak then got to cosmetic work on the tail end. Also have a initial charge in the AC but just a initial as fearful has a leak. That to be further evaluated. cosmetic surgery so far covered two hacked in lamp holes, has brake lights thru t/s so not certain why had stop lamps wired in separate and not sure where the power came from as did not function on Stop pressure. Cat 4 receiver box is in but need to back side brace, receiver cross pin is on Backside of the plate.
Harness should have a mid frame connection point just in front of left front drive. A five pin.
Are several connections up above air tank behind fuel tank in mid frame, just need to get them loose and inspect. Already found a few hack jobs not certain what they thought were accomplishing as most were/are dead circuits. Do have Tail, L&R T/S, stops thru T/S and BU just the six wire plug at rear only has those five actuations, Red wire is dead, one wire is ground, another I believe was blue for a aux circuit also nada key on or off all lighting on or off.
It's old enough that harness is full issues from salt.
No doubts there, and bad repairs
That's real nice, the pvc butt connector bandit struck once again.
But they are better than Scotchlocs.
Not buy much without shrink tube.
Circuit C2AX in the tractor side brake only circuit no power Finding that in the dash or a hidden loom split may as well blow smoke up my own shorts Have diagrams from MHC accurate for chassis number and shows the trailer supply C2AX at least a 6 or 8 ga wire where one at midframe and rear is 12-14ga. Not certain where splice will be, plug was fine inside.
I have never seen a tractor 6 pin tail/stop/turn connection with anything but 12 & 14 ga wire. Did you change signal switch?
Nope Cannon Plug in Top Left of Diagram shows the C2AX as Number 3 prong, lower of the four center pins, in the photo of the six wire there are the leads for the trailer plug, Also Massive wires, Grd is at least a 6ga as is the Aux and Stop wires at 8ga. Tail Marker and TS leads for 7 pin are 14ga. All the leads at rear but GRD are 12 or 14 ga, the GRD is at least 10ga
All four Center Pin positions list as 12 or 14 ga, need to dig further as to the trailer plug wiring as it is Far Larger than that. C2AX is listed as a 12ga. Me thinks been Slightly modded.
Every KW I have worked on the trailer 7 wire is separate all the way to distribution box, the rear tractor harness was separate also. The C2AX never used in tractor tail lights.
Will use that lead for a electric Brake Controller Feed for the Trailers I will pull with it. Comes In HANDY as a Dead Leg. Thanks TS
Big day while was warm All in One big Piece except bumper Have to adjust tit stops and replace the rubber washers in the hinges but is back on!!
For good, motor work finished?
Engine work done. Lacks air cleaners for now, sitting to the sideline. Body work to take the next attention time.
Back to the rear awhile Hitch works complete Next up lighting mods for trailer plugs
Acter the harness side now New junction block mount awaiting dry
You have the cleaners? I bought a set a couple years ago, and they don't give those away. You going to be bumper pulling? I guess I thought you were pulling 5th wheel camper with it.
I have the cleaners, off for body and paint work is all, need to order elements. Keep ALL options Open and available as I will likely sell off the old Pickup when this is done, it will become that duty truck. And do intend on a RV Fifth Wheel model.
Hard to tell from the hitch pictures but I would recommend a diagonal brace on each side running from the bottom up to the side of the frame on either the inside or outside, maybe even triangulated from near the receiver depending on the clearance around stuff
I've seen pictures of bumper pull campers that get damaged behind a tractor. Hitch and frame of the camper just toasted. I guess the tractor just isn't forgiving enough and some cheap campers can beat themselves to pieces. I'm not sure I'd sell the pickup and just have the tractor either, it would be kind of limiting for me. Will you title the KW as a RV when you get done?
coming from the dump truck, I was surprised to not see a large pintle back there. I suppose there will never be a need with recreational use.
It is cross tied at the very rear of the tube to the side braces, no room for hands to set the cross pin lock pin with serious diagonal braces. Hitches for the bumper pulls have a added air bag buffer if use a Semi to pull for any length of time, not going to be doing it every day or every week or even every month so may never get that advanced. The fifth wheel trailer pin plates are also air bag ride available which will be doing. And for CO, No RV tag, as once retitle to get a RV tag it can not ever be used except to drag a RV, not even a small utility trailer as already been cautioned by the Inspector that set the MO Replacement VIN tag. Do not utilize the pickup very much anymore where it just sits, calipers lock up rotors rust up and batteries go dead, time for it to go. Air Ride Hitch | etrailer.com Shocker 20K Airbag Trailer Tongue Air Coupler (shockerhitch.com)
I did forget the license it will receive MO BL 54 Labeled: 'Personal Conveyance, NOT For Hire' below Our name and hometown with Empty Wt. and VIN Legal in all lower 48 same as a personal pickup or ton truck. Is pricey but allows to haul MY machinery to BILs place for nephew to use, pick up my own truckload materials(At weight restriction) and to drag the RV at a legal weight level. Open Game for Inspections, will not be a problem, will keep adequate records but not required to show logs. Being Class 8/Air Brake will still need daily walk around inspections sign offs.
This is how jct block worked out Still awaiting six wire cable.
Love those boxes combined with heat shrink connectors and some dielectric grease coating the studs and such metal, it lasts almost forever there. Missing a bolt the reason for the new one on that brace? You will never need a full sized truck again after you get that rig on the road, need to get to point B and don't need to haul anything, just grab the car or small quarter ton truck. Soccer moms want to play bumper cars with their SUV's, well it's only fair I level the playing ground with a semi
New bolts showing in the photos are on air bags, replaced all the fasteners there as most were corrupt beyond reuse.
JB4100-Napa. I must have bought 100 of those rewiring trucks/trailers for ag company.
I didnt have a pickup for about a year but i had my f600 that got old fast driving it every time i needed to haul some lumber or the mower. I sure would like to cut back on the vehicles my money supports.
I am trying ti figure out about having owners name on the truck door. If its not for hire and dosent leave the state does it need it?
Whether it needs it or not it tends to let DOT know when going through a weigh station or down the road what intentions you have with your rig, not looking like you are trying to sneak through with no authority or IFTA to be hauling whatever you are hauling. Some officers don't even know themselves whether it should have it or not and you end up trying to explain the regulations on requiring it or not to Barney Fife on why you don't have it.
MO state statute above 12,000BL tags are supposed to be labeled, just not enforced. Go to 54k and will be.
DM, if you have a use for it Cat sell a 6-wire (along with 3, 9, & 12-wire) "replacement harness" cable all nicely bound up in their braided external harness protection. Makes neat work easy but is not cheap.
Thanks Nige Will look into that
well was wrong MO revised that some years ago according to DOR site to 36k and greater.
FYI each individual wire in the harness is a different colour, even for a 12-wire harness, and on the insulation they are marked REPAIR 1, REPAIR 2, etc, etc. Here are the Part Numbers. It may not be sold by the foot/metre, only as a roill. Not sure. 3-wire - 366-8856 6-wire - 366-8857 9-wire - 366-8858 12-wire - 366-8859
REALLY Appreciate those!!!
Still awaiting wiring pieces, CAT was NOT so friendly as they would only sell in 100' rolls so awaiting a order from a different supplier. So worked at some other stuff, like stripping hood for body work, cab will be next. Quite a bit will remain in place, Huck fastened brackets, some odd areas cannot do anything but Mask Off but will get this ready to paint over next couple weekends, are some bumps from Inside the hood that cracked to Out on top, corners need glass work, will be DA'ing a LOT. Then more than likely another round of $1000 in parts. Lower Cross Member of Hood DOES need some Hammer Work as is bent to bupkuss, old wagon has signs been HARD wrecked prior, diagonal line on R Front Tow Eye bumper flange is Welding Bead.
Are you going to have the spaghetti pin stripes when done or the wider lasagna style?
LOL!! Neither if have my way. I prefer Plain Color and SIMPLE.
I was figuring one of those nice two tone emblems, to give it some contrast. I'm actually on the simple side myself, but some of the kenworth designs are pretty nice looking. I really like the first one, except for all the lights on the roof. Maybe its bleed over from the international tractors color scheme.
Considered Gray on fenders as the A model last photo, STILL Not doing pinstripes and cab will remain Blue. Also NO Bug Jump Ramps on hood.
That's called KW Seminole paint scheme. That was a let down.
Well today was a let down, jobs are filling out and additionals are getting slim. Hauled load of Road Base to a site 12 miles from office, narrow little driveway where the contractor had me dribble it out in several small piles to keep it up on that drive and out of the ditches. Took less than a hour, next up Load of sand topped off a Concrete Batch plant, they were full, no backhaul 24 miles out and nothing left as got back to yard so made a short day of it replaced board on the 16' trailer that was bad and the side boards that were too short, UPS then delivered my wire from Etrailer. Only one day shipping as in St Peters MO, just too lazy to drive up there and waste that much time to pick up on my own. White sheath wire was substitute for Black Sheath and is Marine Grade but same price, for Tail Lamps.
Nother Partial day so Home work. Did get one load sand to a Concrete company(They are also slow), then told to haul clay to barge loading. White Clay, first load not bad, light sprinkling and minimal cutting on platform, next load a bit more greasy, then third, slop, Backed in as was standing water, cut ruts 4-6" deep, was NOT certain would or could get out but managed. Back to yard TORRENTIAL rain so figure best to rinse out clay residue. Raised bed, looked as Chicken Gravy running out, clumpy ooze of nasty so rinsed all down then parked. Went to barn pulled batteries on Allis 180, one dated 2016, the other 2006, not bad for Time served, off to parts house and got TWO New group 31s, back to tractor and VIOLA!! SUCCESS, cranks as supposed to now. Load test on each old one showed a 30% amps value on older one, less than 70% on newer!!
Have to see where today goes, Frost advisory 29F this morning so Too Cold to haul anything wet and Everything here is wet. Maybe by 8am will be able to get something done at work. Know Clay will not be going anywhere, may be on a sand haul again but the concrete plants are in limbo again, sales went really soft really fast where as the Fuel Surcharges get added a delivered yard is close to $200.
Well end of week was typical, started on Clay haul, emergency swap to Concrete Sand where local DOT showed up JUST AT TIME to haul so went Alternate route. Sand caught up toward end of day, had a load of Mixer Truck Washout Waste to pickup at same yard to bring back to contractor working on home site for that company owner. Did NOT expect the mess this **** left in the bed. They installed a NEW system to heavily water the trucks at the washout, mixer is run at high speed mix then run in high speed dump where the additional recycled water from the same system flushes MOST of the cement out leaving a mix of rock and sand that can be readily hauled. Problem was MOST of the Cement not ALL where that painted the inside bed walls with Cement, rinsed and broomed and rinsed again to little avail, will take several rock hauls to cleanse that detritus off. Was told they are limiting repairs to safety and necessity ONLY on the dump trucks, have two on order to replace the two Stars, tired of the non warranty expenses and typical low mile high hours wear on these adding up, estimated arrival at time of order was end of March, MAY be here by end of May so straggling the machines along. The one I drive dies as the other has and will be nothing to use except a End Dump until that replacement arrives, NOT economical.
As to the KW, took the weekend off, may do some mowing, a little yard work and just laze around a bit as need a breather for a short time. Wife wants are a necessity currently as in Wants Help with start of yard Season and I still have landscaping work in progress turned off by winter. Still have sights set as to June completion of Paint/Body work, still have a trip to OK for additional pieces offered up where will kill another weekend or two. Tires will be the sticking point come about then as to availability and expense level, steers may go on then await the drives as find a little more cash. The end is Nigh for the driving job at that point, be height of season for rock and sand hauls but are guys/gals coming available and willing to work that are gaining their CDLs so CAN be replaced by a more Youthful member. SSI will have caught up and I will be BACK into the game there, NEXT year will make no difference what I earn so may pick back up depending what comes available then. Can actually use the Six Months OFF time to catch up around Here!!!
Going to rain all weekend and you aren't going to get anything done.
Yep
That's a perfect plan for when the wife wants yard work done.
Odds and ends day Lovely day mid 70s partly cloudy and windy as a tornado but nice low humidity Confirmed diffs full, then nosed out and finished rear wiring. Lights and plugs fully functional just need to tie in electric brake control at dash to the Red wire been discussing as is wired to the back plugs now. I do prefer TIdy where will be placed once paint is done.
Right plug is seven flat blade RV style. Left is six pin. BU lamp wires to be attached to hitch bracing. And all are on APTIV weatherpack style plugs.
Six pin for the gooseneck trailer and 7 pin for the RV? I would of just put a 7 pin plug on the gooseneck to not have to add an extra plug and run extra wires on the semi cause I know it's getting tight in that junction box.
Rather have both, dealt with A-daptor plugs forever and all the issues as they gain a little age. Have several trailers I use, three are six pin, One is RV plug then there will be a standard 7 round pin behind the cab when completed!!! For REAL Trailers. Good aspect of the different plugs is they will ONLY be used singularly, basically just standing by.
Strip down of externals is coming along, roof mount antenna base on sleeper is off Silicone been cleaned away just trying to strategize the holes repairs, six well nuts and coax bore holes, horn trumpets off, one broken screw to remove there, likely to have to replace minimum one cab lamp and three lenses, may just swap whole set to LED. Motomirrors are rough, heat wires were not connected, have to get in dash to see about removal of harness to heads. Getting to the fiberglass Work moving where can then prep for paint. Grab handles rear of sleeper are thru bolted, will be staying ON and masking off as NOT pulling sleeper liner down.
Mirrors are fully off, L heated only Rt is motor and heated. Got screw removed on horn diaphragm housing. Stuck bolts in most of the holes to keep paint out. Giving up for the weekend will hit it harder next round. Wife requirements took priority yet again.
Are you painting it yourself DMiller? or having someone spray it for you?
Plan is for ME to Fk it up and make the attempt. Are a few shops here that would paint it, start at over $3000 base price, goes UP from there.
Remember satin and flat colors hide the most imperfections You should paint it OD green, you know you miss those days in the service! Drill Sgt asked me why I joined the service back in boot camp, I told him cause I like the color green, he went silent and dumbfounded after that answer.
You shocked DI into silence! I’m seriously impressed.
Money is green, Army colors "were" green back in the day along with everything attached to them, most vegetation is green which we would be spending a lot of time in so I believe it was the perfect answer.
Have actually bought a Devilbiss dekups system gun setup, previously painted with a old Sharps gun with siphon cup where was never schooled on paint guns with it having a 7 nozzle tip. The HVLP Devilbiss guns use far less air pressure as well deliver paints at a better delivery being gravity over siphon and the dekups liners making far less mess. Recommended by a local body man who is going to assist by mixing paints and reducing/hardening agents on a as need basis for existing weather and temps. He has the scales and bulk additives just has to order the paint codes. Said will use far less paint than in the old days. Quart to quart and half for Frame, is thinking not much more for entire cab and less than a quart of clear over color. He said will get me a rattle can primer to cover repair spots that will be less likely to lift when cover with final paint. Eases more fears. has been coaching me on paint gun pressures, patterns and how to deliver paint appropriately, he has a full shop with a booth but ot has been useless for close to a decade where booth painting is not nearly as required under HVLP system use now. Will see if can manage this.
Prep work in the big time consumer. The big cash outlay was the paint last time I got involved with paint. Paint and hardener last time I payed for it 15 years ago was $100 a quart. It will be interesting to hear what it is now.
I want to fix the rust and bad dents on my 1984 GMC 4x4 . I dont want to make a show rig out of it and i would like to paint it with a flat blue but i have ask several paint supplyers and they dont know how to do flat colors.
Years ago every thing i owned had good paint and i helped paint several of my buddys rigs. The buddy that helped me and i helped him was a sanding nut witch is good but more than one time i throw all the sand paper in the wood stove and said i think its ready to paint.
As a sideline, in my teens I repaired auto bodies & painted. I did some body work I'm very proud of 45 years later, a few still around I did. I would figure $100. for all consumables including bondo, all chemicals & paint per car. Big vehicles a bit more. It has been 10 years since I did the whole cab on the C65. It cost well over $500. I'd expect $1000. now.
$15,000 total-paint & materials alone almost 4,000.
I hate sanding and filler work, I'm not patient enough or detail orientated enough to do a good job. Counterweight truck got rustoleum white oil base. Runs about $36 a gallon right now at lowes. It will probably be chalky white by next year, but I might tear something up on it by next year. Looks great, if you look at it from a long ways away, and you're squinting with the sun in your eyes.
My friends paint everything with the same synthetic enamel. Looks somewhat shiny first year. Out in the sun it becomes "flat red" in a year. It has become the company color.
& it isn't even red!!
It's a real learning curve going from siphon to gravity fed. At least for me. I don't paint that often but still really don't have a full grasp on using a gravity gun. It seems you have to go slower, thin the paint more and it's just weird for me. It's uses less paint and less of a mess for sure.
I want to paint my GMC 7500 its white i think i will use the paint at Orscheins they also sell the hardener for it.
As I have gotten older, I've seen paint being a necessary evil at times. If you are out on the highways and you have to stop at a scale, I preferred to be in the clean and nicely painted truck with all the lights working. It's usually the crap wagons that get told to pull off and bring your paper in with you. For off highway iron, my color choice always seemed to be faded yellow, black and rust.
My GMC isnt shinny by any means but i have been over it with a fine tooth comb. I need to take the driving part of the CDL and i dont know if i should just rent a truck or use mine. It dosent have AC and because of it being on LP the passenger side step works but is home made. I wish i would have known the place i did work had a Dot inspecter there i would have drove it there and had it inspected . I have used it with out my CDL but i dont want to drive it every were. I guess i could take some pictures of it by the test place and see what they say.
Actually posted pics on the wrong Posting but got to the Body Work **** Today. As to a secondary post, was this one: Side note, Tomorrow will be a FUGLY Day. Been speaking with Marcie at SSA as to stopping my SSI payments for an additional Four Months where notified me CANNOT be done, can Pause benefit ONE TIME and have already done that based against last years excess payout, they cannot inordinately extend that. Next up sat and figured against last pay stub where I have but six weeks of Active Work before MUST Stop altogether for the Year or deal with Same **** Different Day as did this year Next year. So will be sitting down with the Boss tomorrow and explaining this AGAIN, should not be so bad for the company as everything has Slowed DRASTICALLY, they have full staff in End Dumps, and a Extra Driver in training currently that in essence could replace me easily. My Class A is still good thru 2023 where IF want to can go back after Jan 1 as to full time work, just may not. My last Active Worker Day should be June 10th. Retired AGAIN.
Can only do it one time for up to 9 months, after that you either go back to work and pay SSA back everything you got or you stay on it. Then they wonder why so many are not going out and finding work
Well boss was out sick this morning, Son took the reigns and we had the talk. NOT a Issue. Work til 6/10, MAY have to train my own replacement. 6/10 puts me Close enough along with Vacation Time owed. 21 Active days at work in five weeks.
Boss and I had a nice chat on this, he fully understands why where could not see me having to pay to SSA Half what I earn just to be working. Asked IF I was considering coming back to work after January, would be glad to have me back as have been very positive for the company. Not certain will even consider returning to a full time 'Job' after I leave this one, in speaking to my own insurance carrier it seems a stiff penalty is being pressed on commercial drivers over age 70 for accidents and certain limitations against payouts for those above 66. May just lock in on the KW as a entertainment mechanism where with fuel over $5/gal will be limited. Countdown has commenced if only on my calendars, 3 four day weeks and a final five day after this weekend. Be at Junkyard's the weekend of 5/21(Taking Fri and Mon off), Memorial day the next weekend, done 6/10/22.
Commercial/CDL accidents involving drivers over 70 has increased. IMO most have to do with reaction time. The other is who performed the drivers physical/or how did they even get one.
Several drivers I work around I do not believe could pass a Valid Physical, go to a quack Chiro in Warrenton MO, will catch up to them eventually. Mine are done by a department of Mercy Medical that I use for regular Doc as he cannot do them where Mercy set up the department just for CDLs, Pilots License and Marine or RR Physicals. Still, the Company Insurance will NOT cover any accident involving a 70+ year old.
Insurance companies are getting real picky in the area involving commercial vehicles, Some are one accident no matter your record and that person goes on the do not hire list. Fact.
Insurance companies will be turning to here next https://www.safetyvision.com/ after all GM is sharing your data of your vehicle and you with them and with federal government in the wet dream of “zero crashes, zero emissions, and zero congestion”. I always referred GM to Government Motors, only time before the rest follow.
Not EVEN Truck related but ending up with another project, renter has no time to keep up with fence work, they are just Swamped with too many directions, too many operations and too few hands to tend. Covid was also not kind to them as that entire family had it with one brother still not fairing well. Just bought a Used Shaver HD8-H Post Pounder from guy I work with, three point mount. Gonna have to get some Drill Stem and Sucker Rod inventory then start resetting corners and division gate post with it. Is a supplier at Eldon MO I will need to contact then get some materials to start this. Wood Post are just not hanging in there anymore and I have NO patience for saw sharpening to hack on Osage Orange or Hedge to get less rot post.
This farm has alot of RR ties for post and there about done. I need to put in a gate and i have some pipe that isnt good for much else.
Good luck on getting drill stem, seems to be a shortage going on for some odd reason and if you do find some it's going for about $75 a stick for 2 3/8 and 2 7/8. Would of done my whole fence line myself by now, but when it goes from $35 to $75 plus a stick, it's not worth it. Tee posts aren't any better on prices on the good ones for $6.59 a post when they were $3.98 a year ago.
Have 3/4+ of a Pallet of T-post I bought four or five years back, I do NOT EVER buy only as need for a day, buy on bulk and are better off. Also have nine rolls OK Brand 4 point 12 1/2ga Barbed wire, does not hurt me to store them. Drill Stem pipe here is still available, guy is writing up a quote for me currently 2 7/8. They sell by stick for small quantity and by ton larger.
After the prices drop or something gives I will be going with nothing but drill stem, not turning back to tee posts. How much per a stick down there?
Do not have a price yet, guy was only on the phone a few moments, explained had customers on the yard would cut a quote and send it, will be Monday.
Got three quotes for 110' x 6' chain link for my place, lowest was $10,000. I just finished putting it up for $2,200 with privacy slats.
Having it done is handy for most people where we all look at price of materials we can do ourselves. Neighbor will not even change his own mower oil, pays to have it hauled to a dealer and they change it then charge to bring mower back. Same dealer accepts waste oils and antifreeze, recycles antifreeze thru a service and uses waste oils for heat system, is where I deliver my leftovers. Service on my Rider is less than $100 for me, neighbor pays $450-550 each time and is happy did not have to get dirty.
Labor sometimes seams unreal unless your the one getting payed. I put a metal roof on my house i check into having it done i thought if i could get it done for $300.00 a man 3 man crew 2 days i would have it done. I got a bid and they wanted around $500.00 a man. It took about a week for me to do it with very little help. I know this guy wasnt paying his guys $200.00 a day.I dont know what a shop would have to charge. I always thought if i had to have another mechanic shop every thing that came through the door would need to be charged a automatic fee even if no work was done to it.
Most unskilled labor around here is getting $13.50-14.00 an hour so most these characters would get in a day based on get to 40 before OT is around $170/day
Ashlee from the Steel Yard at Clinton MO wrote me as to their inventory, not bad. The guy I spoke with at Eldon FINALLY wrote back stated ALL his inventory went with the Mennonites he was escorting in the yard when I called, uncertain when will have a restock.. So at Clinton MO can get 7/8 sucker rod 25', $18, 1" sucker Rod 25' $20.50 both Each. As to Pipe 2 3/8 #1 avg 31.5' long $2.80ft 2 7/8 #1 same length $3.35ft 4" OD #1 32' $6 ft 4 1/2" #1 25'-29' $6.82 ft $5 each cut to make to 8 or 9' post sizes, can cut my own. Have Plenty on hand currently
At those prices I would imagine there would be plenty to be bought. Thanks for the update, I don't feel so bad on prices here now. All the 4.5" I bought for the pole barn was $90 a stick at the time for 40' avg. length stick, those are some expensive prices you got. The gate entrance I plan on going with is 12" w/ quarter inch wall for $11 a foot. Definitely would cut my own too.
The wood post can get here that are creosote treated have gone from $22 a 5” post to now $34 a 5” post so not opposed to going steel. Should outlast me Wood only make around 6-8 years and rot just at grade line, does not matter set straight dirt, clean creek rock under or not, set in dry concrete or rock screenings.
If you can’t wait for steel to come back down, old/ low use power/telephone poles that are sound make great posts.
Here, we use Black Locust as first choice fence posts, cedar as second choice. It's said Black Locust will last 10 years longer than stone. People claim the locust will dull a chain saw, my experience with it is limited. 11 years ago, a flood deposited 30? cord of wood for me. I saw it as a silver lining in a cloud, until I tried to saw it. Very little of it had bark & it looked pretty clean, but first cut would ruin a chain. I found even cutting away the outer layer down to clean wood it dulled a chain very quickly. We ended up burning it all as waste. At the time I wanted to try a carbide chain, but didn't manage to find one.
Have minimal Black locust here, and yes, they will flat destroy a chain in short order, most get left to rot as lay when do get dropped. Honey locust in abundance rot as soon as die, turn to mush in less than two years, cedars must have decent red heartwood or they too will rot fast.
Farmers use heartwood & sapwood alike. I've never heard it said one part rots faster than another. Most Cedar fence posts are whole trunk saplings, anywhere from 2 to 6" small end. Bigger trunks get split to make fence posts.
Our cedars grow too fast in good soil, little heartwood, Loads of sapwood and rot almost as fast as set for post.
The components retrieved from OKLAHOMA
Got to drive through the rain all day? It never really stopped here, every time it slowed down, another dark cloud would come along and it would dump the bucket some more.
Been raining here most of the day, pickup not been moved since came back Monday and not been dry enough to get Allis out to offload it.
Y'all having weather like up here, every time I turn around it's raining and another cold front hitting. Better than last year where it went from 50's straight to 100's starting June 1st with no rain for weeks on end. Going to rain another 5 days straight here come Saturday, go from 80's to 50's for highs. Going to paint them some other color than white?
Delusions I have any paint skills, that the Phantom Gray I look to paint the hood fender sections I will paint these.
Just a heads up: NINE days and counting DOWN.
Shall I send a note to the KW? - "Brace yourself! Things are about to get real"
Be ON like Donkey Kong!!!
Off this morning to get my Allis farm tractor from barn. Have drive repairs to make from the 4+ inches of rain we had last weeks and unload the truck.
Fenders and batt box unloaded, batt box sitting outside until can clean and evaluate.
BTW, drive graded off and even tilled garden plot to get where CAN plant in the Mud. Weather has been atrocious, Next to no Sun Time, seed rotted in plots for others being too wet and too cool to germinate.
Fenders have Light Boxes so 'MAY' have to adjust the Tail Lighting system SOME, ?MAY? remove those boxes. Brackets are not correct where will require a Fit Up prior to disassembly and repair of the Glass Work. Tire Rubs on Under side have burned thru the Glass Layers so OH will be needed. HOPING can make presentable enough to Look Good On the truck when Done.
Today was another Duties Day, Mowing Done, between yesterday and today got garden planted so will see how well the rabbits fatten up. A few other assorted odd jobs caught up prior to my Last Nine Working for Real Days. Ran into a oddball, ordered parts for our 30 year old Troy Built Pony tiller, 5hp Briggs, would not draw gas and found diaphragm bad, not a problem, HOWEVER, the 12 year old Lawn Boy the Wife bought for MIL got seriously hard to start where intended to adj the valves on the 3.5hp OHV Briggs only to find nearly everything I looked to purchase is NLA/OBSOLETE. Seems the engine was built under License by Briggs for LB and as they went OOB so too these engines. So its scrap and will get the least expensive mongrel after the holiday I can find.
Two WHOLE Days remaining. Be some extra hours, payday is every Friday where will wait until Next Week for Last check. Will be under the SSA Limit but not by a lot.
Learned Something SCARY today, Liquid Urea 32% Fertilizer is now OUT OF STACK Everywhere, Fertilizer suppliers noted that DEF quality UREA is NOT being produced Either as well stocks of Dry Urea is running SERIOUSLY Short and No Supply in sight.
Farm Urea--known as solution 32. Just filled our totes.
May be the last you get for awhile
At this point it doesn't seem a problem around here.
Isn't urea also a component in fertilizer? Be a shame if we have to decide between fuel or food for this substance.
Correct- urea and liquid nitrogen main ingredient in solution 32-fertilizer-but cannot be run as DEF. Because it's not refined. IMO this is a artificial shortage concocted to raise price. just my 2 cents. After talking to a ag company just down the street from my shop.
Australia has just gone through this, it seems you're following us rather than the other way around for a change. Bit like the toilet paper fiasco, Australia was going to run out etc, made the news, which made it worse. We import the majority of our AdBlue from China and when they rationed there urea to use themselves as fertilizer then all of a sudden we were in trouble, one of our major manufacturers on the east coast had planned to stop making it due to unprofitability, however the government gave them a grant and they ramped up production. I haven't heard about any shortages since over here. However the price went from about $1/litre to now around $2.60 in a very short space of time. I imagine you will see something similar.
Ohhhh gaawwwddd, seems like something critical is running out or short....................baby formula, bleach for pools, truck parts, engine parts, tires.........fill in the blank. I knew fertilizer was expensive/ in short supply..............never ever even equated fertilizer with urea (DEF FOR DAH TRUCKS) with the fertilizer shortage!! (smacks hand onto forehead) Tomorrow morning I need to make note of how many drums of DEF we have that are FULL!! "Ohhh, hey.........btw.........we're out of DEF. Used the last of the drum yesterday.................got any more??" "REally?? We don't have any drums left?? All of the drums on the wall are empty now??" Yup!!! So the request to tell me when we are on the last drum went unheard?? You didn't think about it when you cracked that last drum??? Ooooh, I didn't crack the last drum........................and so it goes. Called ATD for drive tires 22.5's. They had 9 of them in Boston. Not the ones I wanted but told the sales rep I'd call him right back. ATD only has 2 commercial guys in New England. Called him back 5 minutes later after looking at pics of the tread pattern. Voicemail............this is at 8am. Called again at 10am, left message...................called at noon, left no message..........texted him instead. Called again...........same. He calls back at 4pm. He had been in meetings all day...........to busy to answer phone or text. The tires were gone............all gone. Sold!!! No estimate of time frame for restock. No idea if they were underway from East butt crust asia. I skipped right to a vice president...........bypassed the regional manager. Getting tired of this crap.............feel like I need to stockpile anything and everything now a days. Want to order a drum of oil?? No........get 6. Get 6 of everything!!! LOL Sorry..........started ranting................off topic...........my apologies.........
This just in.......... Irwindale-based Huy Fong Inc. halts Sriracha sauce production amid product shortage, crop failure SRIRACHA SAUCE!!! Gonna be a shortage of SRIRACHA SAUCE!! We're going to have to break into the strategic reserve!! (I don't think I've ever had Sriracha sauce before) Read that tonight.......laughed......figured I'd share. Its getting silly.
Last day has arrived, rains on. Spent yesterday delivering 260t of spread quarry screenings on roads we had already laid with 'Road Rock', client wanted 'Softer Look/Appearance'. Was supposed to finish that today but doubt happens by me now, will fall to the other dump truck driver next week as dries back up. Sunday is Wife's B'day, next Tuesday our Anniversary(1986) Doc appointments Eyes Monday, Physical check up Wednesday and then BACK to my shop and the KW.
Day is done, time ticket is Clocked off and will receive that payday next Friday, by what income have made to date will be WITHIN $400 of what I did not want to pass.
Guess I picked a Good End week, this morning is already 80F and humidity over 70%, may as well be raining is so foggy and humid. Feel sorry for my cohorts in driving, they will have a blistering week.
48* here.
It's 49 and been raining since noon yesterday. We get two days of dry and mostly cloudy and then four days of rain and then repeat.
The summers in Mo are getting hotter and more humid than they were 5 years ago. It was that we got 2 to 4 weeks of realy hot weather now it is bad all summer long.
Summers have always been scorchers Doug, we just do not deal as well with them these days. Reflected on that over the last few years where used to be by Memorial Day was already in 80s-90s and humidity stifling until late in September. In school during the sixties we would damn near to be melting by end of day in May and suffering thru first days back in September, fans steadily running as not ac cooled back then.
From April 1st to now we've had rain every week. It rained here all weekend, the grain fields around here was 30 plus inches high, 50% is laying flat because of the rain.
I will never forget but the place were i worked last bought a swamp cooler for the shop. I just about lost it that day what a slap in the face. It was unbearable with it running.
Only shop ever worked with swamp cooler set up was Salt Lake City, summer heat in that valley was always above 95, humidity below 30% so swamp cooler worked great. Had a similar shop in San Leandro, only thing could cool that down was keep the doors closed and fans on high speed, shade was only cool we could get.
Congratulations on retiring (again) DMiller. The way the weather is, you picked the perfect time to be done.
No cooler or fans here, just doors up. just roast.
Yeah, congratulations! Whatcha gonna do with all your spare time?
Finish Projects
Been cleaning up in the shop, did place the fenders BACK outside for now, started moving pieces and heavy tooling I stored inside the shop to the other side and away from the 'Paint Booth'. Getting back into working on that Right Seat, be hard on that come Tuesday then should I manage to get it where I want it then back into body work. going to replace all ten of the Rivnuts I can dislodge for the markers where the one that spun needs glass work to get it to hold, try to get the wiring tied off for them and all ready for tape off so can wash the entire cab/hood/sleeper and get on to D/A work for paint prep. I have acquired three tarps to hang from the ceiling in the shop on J Hooks, one to either side and one across the rear frame behind the rollup door runners well behind the sleeper, those will become my Booth with air directed out under a partially raised door by fans. Have access to water to dampen the floor as paint from the facilities inside the shop SHOULD be able to keep dust minimalized. I am hoping to actually put color on this by Late August or September with all the other crap I need to catch up on.. Have a line on some POTENTIAL Take Offs for Drives, will know in next weeks if are really available but best part, FREE to Pickup. Reported as 20-40K remaining tread no repairs all matched virgins under 2018/19 date code. More later on that. Should that be a true statement then I need only buy Steers for the machine with no big tire expense for at least a year or two beyond.
Nice to hear you are feeling well enough to work on the beast again.
So am I
Getting it ready First wall of ‘Paint Booth’ hanging 20’ will cross the back the other side just happens to be 20 away truss CL to truss and outside lighting ends. Once both sides up and center reasonably hanging will put wagon outside and wash prior to sanding. Bench will stay, just be bare for paint stuff.
My benches look atrocious, soon , not right now but SOON.
This week looks like you better start early and quit early. Supposed to be a hot SOB. Glad to see you up and around working on it.
Already the plan Try to be done noonish as heat gets oppressive. Heat and I get along alright, i watch myself for the signs, learned that pretty young and has managed to keep me from heat stroking so far.
Well Discount motors paint booth erected Got scaffold bucks assembled but gonna add four more lower cross braces coming from Northern Tool Just could not get the song ‘Time to Do Some Sketchy ****, DoDa DoDa’ from repeating while working
Humid as a river here today Did get bench cleared off, paint/sanding supplies on bottom shelf, scaffold set to work marker light attachment hardware includes two small step ladders and a 7’ 2x12
Don't forget your fall protection harness.
Looks like a vandal broke into your shop and stole all your good stuff. (I joke)
Be 6' off the floor, retractables with a lanyard or shock lanyards require 6' up to 10' to deploy, AIN'T Happening HERE!!!
That looks like pretty good scaffolding, what is it?
Metaltech Northern tool I like it, bought for add work around farm and house, been stored two+ years in a corner of the shop.
Today been ON it 9 of 10 marker inserts changed, fixing to glass up the oversize last hole. 7 of 10 screws broke off 1 insert spun out only two did screws actually come out.
No anti-seize, When changing bulbs out I use to remove the screws and anti-seize them. Stops a bunch of problems.
Had planned on A-S when goes back together. This was a fugitive from Back East, Salted Roads and reflects that everywhere. Glass Patch curing out at the moment. Will be making a Template to redrill this in proper position.
My dream is to have a shop were there is nothing stored in one part ever so this stuff can be done with out a weeks getting ready.
Good Luck Doug, not ever found one in my working career. Can have a 50x100 building and sectioned for certain work, will end up as a mess in record time as they all do. Had I had a 50x100 would have likely done a Cab off rebuild, along with New Single Rails to repair the rust jacking. Just not attainable these days.
I also need to shear away the Silicone Wiring hole plug sealant then clean the goo away. Will get reapplied as a seal when go back together, just NOT as much.
Having a Off Day, wife caught Influenza A(Tested For), I now have a present from her where NOT Going to suck Fiberglass dust while already hacking up lung cookies. Have dust masks, can imagine that internally lined with chunks.
You Mrs DMiller feels better soon
She is far worse than I, usually sleeps with CPAP, like to have drowned insisting on continuing with it as nose drainage was so severe. She has full blown upper respiratory infection, I do not.
Just getting ready to start a shop clean out, got a high schooler to help. Everything goes that doesn't apply to a 2019 and up. It's not a lot but it needs to go.
Sad times when have to do that but becomes necessity.
Been a weird few weeks, back injury, Flu bug, just miserable in general then a highlight. Sheep farming neighbor texts me, wants to rent barn in valley. Explained would be hard as is 2/3 full already with my machinery. Asked if I could move machinery out so could store hay bales in it. Said no, each time. Just out of curiosity called insurer, said under no circumstance rent the structure. Can store my own bales, can store my own goods or feeds, if rent it out becomes commercial use and insurance as is will not cover if hay catches fire. Commercial policy is four times what we pay for farm overall and would be just for barn. So a Hard NO, ever. As a edit, found the why he asked to rent, cannot find a barn builder that has time to construct him a hay shed, as well does not like the pricing levels currently for concrete or lumber or tins. Two other neighbors have also declined as already have their hay in sheds.
Why would he build a barn when you have a perfectly good barn? You can just move your machinery out, and when he's got the hay used up, you can move your stuff in, back out of the weather next spring. I don't see a problem? That's what neighbors are for. I don't mind helping someone out in a jamb, but its not like he didn't know he needed a barn for his hay. Tell him they sell big tarps on the internet and he can just cover the hay.
He also is rather keen of asking if ready to sell the farm, told him not going down that path anytime soon. He noted Market is dropping where prices will not be as good, explained does not matter as we stay put. He was not ready for that response. He stretched himself pretty thin buying the old farm and expecting adjoining places to just sell to him, did not work out too well where he is land locked to his limited herd size. Pay your money take your chances. He currently has four barns, converted one to a Lambing shed, another is too far from the house and small but could be expanded, a larger one he uses as a Equipment she and the last is just a little past saving.
Or buy/rent a bale wrapper if they're large bales. For small squares, I've seen local homesteaders put up those portable canvas covered 10x20 carports to store their hay. I used my 8x8 chicken coop one year when I had cows but wasn't keeping chickens over the winter. This neighbor needs to get more creative.
He believes he is. 75+% of his bales are small square twine tie, does make some 4' rounds as found a cheap to buy baler but less than 25% so far as the mold issue creeps in and sheep are rather tender to that.
Another day another step closer Template made. Inserts complete!
Managed to get a load of resin on the low spots, Hood, Sleeper roof, got the Right seat where I wanted to go with it, not a great deal of room between the two but not a roomy cab either. Said enough for the day as heat is not so bad Humidity went WAY Up so was miserable even indoors. Tomorrow sand down the resin spots, smooth off for surface filler spots, maybe DA the sleeper roof for priming with the patched spots. Soon enough going to need to wash the entire machine, maybe by Friday will have that done and backed back in the shop to start full DA and hand sand prep.
So today did some cleanup on the marker areas, silicone is off, finished up some resin and glass add to the LF fender edge then as cured up started the surface filler adds. Sleeper roof repairs, deep scratches on doors, hood repairs. MANOh MAN, I had forgotten how fast that stuff solidifies, KNEW had to mix SMALL quantities but holy crap that stuff if quick!! Bath day Tomorrow, then back into shop for DA time.
Are you going to replace the spaghetti and cannoli pin striping ?
NO Once sanded OFF, and painted Over will remain OFF.
How about these only $4.00 a pair? https://www.amazon.com/Pinstripes-C...s=auto+pinstripe+decals&qid=1657669613&sr=8-7
nope
Those are some kind of tacky wonderful, those will look great right below Dave's name on the door.
Is a local that does JUST pin striping Be a nice detail to be JUST pinstriped
Washed this morning Supplies dribbling in Did get solvents to wash spray gun and to wipe down the beast prior to sand to remove grease, oils, wax Starts full speed in am.
And it rolls!!!!
Oh Yeah!!
Last night after sent the pics, received notice delivery from Fedex made. Never saw truck, no driver contact and been home all afternoon, so took walk out past shop. A--hole had shoved these out of the truck (As Found) at our garden shed and hauled for home. Steer tires be here tomorrow to put on them, at least no damage as unboxed.
I got a fedex delivered package right before the 4th that looked like this: That's a plastic radiator support for my brothers car. Amazingly, it wasn't broken.
Not sure if the fault would be FedEx or the place shipping it! They should assume that there will be a bit of bouncing about in transit and put some extra padding or reinforcing for a sharp end like that. I just shipped a back half of a motorcycle frame and I made sure to cover the pointy ends with a chunk of foam rubber taped securely to the ends. UPS did not manage to destroy it or the box!
We have a mailbox at the street, 250 yards from the house. One unnamed courier ( drives small cars) stuffs packages into said mailbox regardless of size. I was 100 feet away last week and he had stuffed the mailbox before I could get there. Last fedex just dropped the box onto a large plastic bag and left it on the driveway. Not much effort put out there
Tires just 'Rolled In' Nice looking, RY617 Yokohama's, and would you know it on the sidewall, Made in USA. Likely do us JUST Fine. ,
Nice new avatar, hope you update it when done.
5 rib do well, just make sure and rotate every 20,000 miles. Soft compound and likes to ware the outside shoulder.
Thanks TS Was wondering of that softer compound rubber. Just got to that point of available and not totally out of price range as so many were to either point.
just hope it is good enough when completed to show off.
I think its a federal offence for any one but a postal carrier to open a mail box here i guess its different there?
Well out early before Humid took over, full Enamel reducer wipe down of cab, completed that, mixed another dollop of surface filler and tidied up a couple more norts on hood, then mounted the new steering tires finally just back from picking up paints. About fell over when let me know how much to bring. $2204.46 for Gallon and 3/4 of paints, quart of Primer sealer, the associated hardeners , reducers and flash enhancers. Four boxes the size of a group 31 battery. Delfleet products.
Did you put a bag of Tire Life in each one? Automotive paint is never cheap.
Not used Tire Life, not seen a need of it. Doubt I will ever heat them loaded to a need. Owner at body shop stated was a 6.5% increase a month ago, last week another 8%, supposedly I picked good timing as paint seller noted next rise will be almost 18% in price increase, within Two Weeks. Petro Products. BTW, First Two Cannoli's are GONE!!
My $2205 worth.
Tire Life does a few things, keeps casing in good condition, acts as a balancing agent, helps find leaks from road debris.
Hoping to have this a few years, will not be hard miles, then either Move Up or if offered enough sell it off and head to Next hauler.
As of this morning, no more cannoli!! Roof areas done to 320gr. TONS of hand sanding to go along with hood.
Got to good stopping point, Shop warming up nicely and approaching front has Humidity ramping. Cab and sleeper complete sanded, down to cowl, cowl extensions and hood. Then clean off, and start taping/masking Not concerned of lower filler panels, have Stainless Covers that go on them, rough will be as hidden as was when got it. .
Roof will require a layer of Primer, to seal the flex lines that showed out. Likely from the wreck that cracked the Right Frame tow eye and from the TV Antenna mount, most likely with first owner.
Finished sanding this morning. Now will need to get it outside, rinse it down, reset in shop and tack cloth entire painted area. Then mask, prime spots, seal prime and then the paint begins.
Too hot to paint right now. Maybe if you shot it early in the morning and pull it inside? Need some cloudy weather.
Will be painting Indoors, likely in cool of morning and shaded.. Door will be open for some of it, be lowered as hood gets closed to draft in from over door to out under(Two Fans). Poor Mans downdraft booth.
Heat built fast today, had hood and shop door open but managed wash, enamel reducer wipe down and started masking. Had to Quit as was just enough, always tomorrow. Need to mask jambs on L Side doors, then both door windows, windshields and finally rooftop brackets/pieces and back of sleeper handles, brackets.
Getting close to the painting time!
Inching closer
Mask is Done, so am I for today!! By 8:40 was passing 90 and I was leaking a LOT. Will have to walk around look for holes or droops before spray anything, NOT today. Early next week looks a better choice.
Up with the wife as usual, only she awoke at 2:45, cooler out so off to the shop, worked on prime areas, have some spots to rehab a little further where knew primer would show out where would need more work. Poor Man's Downdraft system does work, had put door down due to heating.
Next two days BRUTAL, be over 80 by 6:30a, leaving it sit until Monday. Back into sand rough spots on roof, fill the one crack on R Side of hood I missed, a couple tiny bubble pops in Surface filler on hood, will be getting more primer on Wednesday. Shop-Line 2K epoxy based.
When Palomino did the finish coats on my B model he painting at 2 am to beat the heat so the paint and clear went on smooth.
Awoke to 84 this morning at 3:00, stayed there until 6:30 dropped to 76 and immediately started back up. Would not be so bad but humidity over 70%
Comming along nicely, DM. I put a mini split AC/heat pump in my shop last summer, best money i ever spent. should have did it 10 years ago. I would never survive in your area with the high humidity.
Supposed to get rain M,T,W and MAYBE Th, be cooler in the shop if not more humid. Be able to get some more accomplished while temps back down.
Looks like your weather is going to break before ours. Still supposed to be 104 here tuesday. Cooler and a little cloudy would be perfect painting weather, its just that pesky chance of rain.
Already started to change this morning, clouds building NNW, hazy but lower humidity. Was still 81 at 7 and started climbing as of a few minutes ago, breeze was/is no help. If clouds up may go get into the sanding phase later today.
I have a hood,fender and grill you can paint when you get done or to practice on before you start. I bought a wrecked jeep i put the hood and fender on yesterday i had to pull on the inner fender and the part the radiator bolts to a little and every thing was looking good but i put the hood latch on and i need to pull some more . If i had any brains i would have done some measuring at the junkyard to see if i had it pulled enough . I also ended up with a inner grill support that dosent have fog lights mine did this may be a problem later on i havent got a grill yet.
If could only win for the losing Wife has Doc visit this morning, I have a Dentist visit this afternoon as well she wants to do some shopping while east of here. So a GREAT Cool day and I lose it for the most part. Tomorrow looks as good but Wednesday get to say goodbye to one of Wife's Cousins in Ste Genevieve MO, four hours ride time plus visitation and funeral then a scheduled visit with old family so one more lost for any projects. Know we have to honor our deceased and attend our own appointments, just seems counter-intuitive the best days for working are lost to those. Rain has been all around us, absolutely nothing here so far.
I didn't notice whether you're planning to do a full sealer coat or not but did see you used 320 paper for sanding. It's been my experience that grit will show sanding scratches especially on darker colors. A coat of primer/sealer followed by sanding with 800 would minimize the scratches. It all depends on the quality of finish you're expecting.
Years back I used primer/surfacer. It laid a heavy coat suitable for easy wet sand, eliminated scratches entirely. It could be sanded dry with a DA, or wet by hand. If you aren't careful to avoid sanding through, you might have to touch it up with an aerosol primer anywhere you get down to bare steel.
Final sand will be with 600, the primer was explained to me to get better adhesion and to clean up bad spots the 320 was go to as The epoxy primer is buildup type. I won’t argue with the body boys. I have loads of 600 paper for the da as I get the priming done, where was also told the Delfleet is a base paint that can if I wish to use it on will hide 320 scratches. The body guys noted did not recommend wet sand anymore except on high end restoration single stage paints, two stage paints not so critical these days.
Last of small fixes completed this morning, Crack on right Air Intake cut out spots at fender edge repairs, cab/sleeper roofs sanded and feathered out over a dozen odd rock dings, NOT going to get them all, not going to try. Primer will be here tomorrow, will pick that up, reload on Enamel reducer Thursday as Funeral tomorrow. Back at Th/Fr and weekend, supposed to remain Cooler but maybe Wet.
Considering from where the fender tips started this is quite a improvement. Corners had exposed glass and deep fractures. Can see the weld line on Right Tow Eye, has been wrecked long ago.
Last load of primer went on yesterday, was completed by 9 so shut down and cleaned up wife got home took bike ride to Jefferson City, a micro brewery there called Prison Brews and had lunch. Long way around was 160 miles ride time. So this morning, awake at 3:30 Back out sanded the rough spots, water wash/wiped all sanding dust up, so humid taking forever to dry then will take reducer and final wipe before apply primer seal coats. At which time the extra plastic will come off to final clean and ready to paint.
Just looked in on, is pretty well dry but raining outside. Do have a couple spots need to spend more time on. Then wipe it all down again.
Rains went around but temp going back up so earlier start Touch up sanding then wipe down then tack rags and set sealer. Damn tip dripped several times where will have to sand those out and I dripped sweat where those will need a touch up but sealed.
Plastic is pulled, lower insert panels back on, overspray behind plastic so more to clean off.
If get some luck and cooler weather the paint could be on by weekend end.
I want to see that finished coat of clear sanded with 1200 and buffed. lol
Well the next three days are off the schedule. Over 70% humidity, was already 84 at 3:30 this morning and checked in the shop was still 85 from yesterday heatup. Rain expected next three days if not just increasing humidity and no respite from heat until next Monday with even More chances of rain. Cannot spray in a tyvek suit to control sweat dripping in that, where even considering palpate gloves to keep from raining as paint.
Looks good from Elbridge NY only 950 mile away!
I was at a school showing how to use a paint gun it was their siphon fed gun i was using. I forgot to check the pot for leaks or wrap a rag around the cup sure enough it dripped on the top of the pickups tail gate we were painting. Its been a while since i did much painting and buy the rattle can jobs i have done resently its hard to believe i was ever good enough to teach how to do it.
Decided was a good day for Sweat Lodge, cleaned up the primer and sealer errors, spot sanding then sanded the rough off large area flat surfaces. Will use up last of primer tomorrow after mask a couple locations off and retouch spots. Then just awaiting COOLER for real paint.
I took on a rebuilder it hit a deer i got in a hurry and thought i had every thing pull but i need to pull the core support some more on the drivers side. So now the fender needs to come back off. Two steps forward one step back.
Re-prime is complete this morning. Sweat Lodge duty at 4am, over 80 then and creeping to 90 now.
Before and after to eliminate the drip marks 1.8mm tip and 10psi CAP pressure
Was reading up on the Delfleet paint I purchased, only have a 1.5 hour window if mix TOO much paint at a time as will Pot Harden, uses a specific hardener and solvent reducer that is also a Hot Flash Off type. Was recommended I only spray below 80F or risk too rapid a flash off and orange peel appearance. Will be using a gun with a 1.3mm tip and low as recently used air pressure of around 10psi for two hard wet coats, then raise to between 15 and 20psi for a dusting coat for mottling prevention , clear goes on same tip at the 10psi rate two coats no dust over.
Appears Monday thru Wednesday next week is my best choices for paint. Mid 60s early, to Mid 80s early in day where figure to scuff the primed spots accordingly for that over the weekend, no hurry as no time schedule to follow.
I would need to do some practicing before i tryed to paint some thing. I got my Jeep front end pulled the fender and hood is back on and fits good. I now need to buy a grill to see if my other stuff from different years will work together.
All in testing pattern and flows Doug, seems easy enough but NOT!! Tomorrow will be worse than today but Sunday only a taste cooler supposed to let up on the rains, calm air. M is 92% chance, Tu is 78% both for Thunderstorms, high winds, good chance to drop power. So gonna do this Sunday. Did get most of hood sides and fenders scuffed up today with everything below door window height, tomorrow finish that, clean and tack rag the WHOLE cab/Sleeper, Gun is ready, will mix paint about 4-4:30 Sunday Morning and have at it, work to be done two coat by 8-9, may be able to get clear on before smoking hot. Next window not for over a week per the Weather Liars where will be headed to OK on 19th.
Water wash down complete Taking a break go pick up new air filter elements at local parts house.
Will be aligning to set frame plates for Rear Fenders mounts, touch on frame a little and set some tape on plates for weld to area then paint rear frame sometime next two weeks, will have tires here by then so will be on its own shoes after that. As dry in cab again by closing all the holes with parts, old beast can finally go sit outside when not being worked on.
All wiped down with reducer and dry Will tack cloth ONE LAST time in morning, then the paint goes on. Only God can help me now.
Good luck.
Fecking weather liars A full day Early
Appears I will be waiting, awhile.
Dang how many Humming birds do you have around there? Four feeders! If they all show up at the same time it must sound like an attack of little 2-stroke mini-bikes!
Five feeders Look to be twenty something most days Fill in morning empty by nightfall 8 cups/day
Weather announcement Rain showers, pop up storms ALL night now.
It never rains until---you cut hay, ready to harvest wheat, a wedding, a BBQ, car show, parade, go camping, just before cherry harvest, right after you spray for weeds and last but not least when trying to apply automotive finish.
I threw down the towel tonight, Fog will be thick as Mud in morning so sleeping in for a change, might even wait to 5 am to get up!! Have some farm work to get done, will piddle on that between rain showers. Otherwise NOT DOIN SQUAT.
And I was correct, up at 5, coolest part of morning, 74 shown temp, feels like 80, humid enough my shop is sweating on all the tin surfaces and dripping off the gutter skins. My own glasses fogged over soon as stepped outside and a Haze hangs across the valley. MAYBE Wednesday, looks to be a cool front stirring rains tonight, tomorrow and Tuesday with a temp drop of close to ten degrees on lows Wed, Th, Fri. Will shoot for Wednesday maybe Thursday.
Well that's it then, its time for A/C in the shop. The weather spirits have foretold it and it must be done. Get to digging under that mattress and let some of that old money breathe. With inflation its just worth less every day anyways. Get a minisplit and get this issue sorted out.
Need BIGGER Building!! Have to have hood open to start painting (Cowl extensions for Intake tubes) to do that Door has to be Open. Need at least 10' Wider to accommodate the truck, could use a 50 or 60x100 with 16' ceiling far better than what currently have. Not ever considered having full size semi in this one.
I had to paint in a old gas station stall, it was our only compressor. I don't remember what we were painting, but it wouldn't fit inside. So we built a temp paint booth extension with clear plastic and 2x4's ten foot out beyond the overhead door. I think we had a little box fan as a exhaust fan, and it was quite a fog inside.
So far the fans and a tarp across lower door opening has kept the 'Fog' of overspray down, pleased with that, thought about extension but decided can wait.
How big is that shop?
Entire building 30x48 12’ ceiling so doors on 10’. Working side 30x30 Truck just happens to be 28’ long
Shoulda woulda coulda, as to having built bigger. Wife said could not be exceptionally huge to house, even 40x80 x 14 or 16 ceilings would have been my choice with full 12-14’ doors. Shot and shut down long ago.
Would barely squeeze in mine too of 32' for length, but plenty of head room here thankfully of 15 +/- feet after slab and rock down. Mine is encouraging me to go bigger and says I should build another one on other property so I have place to store projects after house is built I might add on to current project in the future, I just didn't want to take any more trees out than I already have, along with how it's saddled between hills, ravine and other land features with the direction the driveway goes to follow contours of the property.
As am back to retired I doubt will build anything bigger. If had the money would do a 50x80 on 6” slab and footers. Store my truck and eventual RV inside. Been looking as to rentable structures or property with one could do that in just no luck yet.
As to painting Have time, can wait especially as materials cost was over $2200, cannot waste it and have to redo it.
In actuality my shop was built to store household crap when built as were also listing the old home for sale and had to "Stage" it, all excess **** OUT. Had to come up with something wife could buy into where could resume working on my own stuff in it after emptied. Entire structure 6" studs, Stick Built on 24" footers with 6" slab was just over $60k insulated and tinned inside. My other option maybe some day is open up that inside wall, move my Machine tools elsewhere or to a separate structure and where the HVAC is now make that a Ducting slot for a external Wood Heat system where add a Actual Forced Air Furnace and AC system.
Wow, I feel like I am getting by cheap with how much I have put into this, I don't think I will break over $15k in materials. Slab around $4.5k is most expensive item followed by insulation of $3k. Heck the wife is helping pay for the part of this pole barn to get built, she has offered to pay someone if I hired them to work with me, I refused though might have to grab someone to help me with the slab after all this will be my first slab pour.
Will need hands to Drag, Screed and then Finish out a slab those sizes you quoted. Just dragging out a small patio slab liked to work me to death before I got it level enough to screed out.
A concrete Drag similar dimensions as a Tooth rake with no teeth. Square edge shovel does work too.
Shops are never big enough because people will no matter what fill it with useless ****--{Mike Flake}
They do make a power screed that can be rented in town, looks to be a one person circus show to use it and comes with different size screed bars. Which at $75 a day is cheaper than paying someone $75 a hour and that doesn't include the hour I would have to pay them to drive out here too. https://tomahawk-power.com/collecti...da-power-screed-single-magnesium-blade-bundle "IF" I get to that point then it's time to clean house, got 90 plus acres but I still ain't keeping broke down useless machinery around or any other junk as such. Most things get a 90 to 180 day grace depends on the time of the year and it's gone, 99% of stuff here doesn't get here till there is a use for it and rarely does situation change for it need to leave.
You can tell a hoarder when you see old buckets of used bolts/nuts and especially cotter pins and rusty pipe fittings.
I got a 55 gallon drum for that, when it gets full it goes with rest of the scrap metal to the metal recycling, takes over a couple years to fill it up. When it gets full or close to full and the market is peaking I cash in my chips.
Where are these stashes and how can I add them to mine?
Contact the members with a pm, Nige has a mountain of copper-old Cat wiring harnesses. lol
Of the last few years my treasures piles have deliberately reduced. Tired of dragging them everywhere.
Well cooler arrived this morning and will be here two days before ramping back up. Wet arrived with cooler where is serious damp this morning or would be in the shop!
Do not try to pour concrete by your self pay for more help than you need . There is no going back if something go's bad. I never was on a job that went wrong but me work to the death attitude saved more than one job.
I am going to haul a min van off this week it was full of treasures i left half of them in it but its hard not to keep some of them. This fall when it cools off i want to clean out my storage trailer i need to get my self ready to let go of some stuff.
First coat of blue on Have several runs and spots of sweat drips to allow to dry the clean up, then on to second coat.
A lot of acres on that cab!
At least 40!! Second done two hours ago Fenders are on now
Ran into a snag Base paint dried enough to apply clear coat, hard to tell how much is applied and ended yp with clear runs sucks Once hardens will be at it with 600 then 1000-1200 and buffing for final finish Brutal. Still looks better than when arrived.
Takes some practice with clear. Looks good though.
That was prior to Clear, will get a better view. Been out pulling mask materials, only thing going to apply to this is water and buffing compound,
When Palomino painted mine he had a few runs he had to sand out, it just happens. And he is a pro. So for a guy who performed a DIY--it's looks good on the base and the clear is forgiving. It will look Great!
Nice work DM. You sure are busy for a retired guy. LOL
Masking all off, local parts house getting me some 8.5" and 5" buffing wheels. Larger for big handheld, smaller for DA.
Runs or no runs, it looks good, plus,it’s got to feel good to get all that masking off knowing you’re getting real close to done.
Yes it does
Kind of like getting the stiches and bandages off after a major surgery!
Well some masking to go Back On. Got aggravated as Left Fender was something wrong with Clear, started to sand to buff but the orange peel ran really deep, just said enough and sanded it down to reapply paint and clear. May not have been enough time between coats, solvent pop. Got 90% of runs cleaned up, still have to LIGHTLY sand some drier clear applications and buff those.
I do know with some Base/clear there can be too much time too.
The release of tension results, I had walked away for a hour then made the decision. Much of that is powder dust from sanding but got the rough off.
Less excess dust
So I am now enjoying Third cup of mud for the morning (16oz), awaiting the local Auto Parts to open so can pickup more 320, 600 and 800 W/D paper. Then on to Hardware for more 2-4mil sheeting. Will be back masking when do the clear along the hood upper transition line at edge of sand line.
I hate to see the do and redo you have had to accomplish for this project but admire your diligence and professionalism in making sure it is all done the way it should be done. Thanks for sharing! I have to wonder at times if I would have been tempted to just say good enough and gone on.
Was pretty bad. could not stand it. Much of Gray masking is back on Left Side and across top of cab, need to cover R tank, tool box and R Fender then set Blue line tape for Gray Edge. Be spraying tomorrow. Get Gray completed at around 45 minutes to an hour from second coat will fold back hood mask, final wipe down of Blue side and then clear the L fender and hood side, Again.
All back cocooned.
That’s alright though, what’s the point of rushing now. Even though it sucks to do again, you’ll feel way better that you did it right instead of kicking yourself for not fixing it right every time you walk past it.
First coat second round
And back masked for clear, Cute trick is to roll tape back to not present a hard edge, easier to blend in. Be about a hour yet.
First coat of clear
Clear is done One sag, so far but fender looks good.
I’d say so! Good enough to see your reflection in when you were taking the picture
Going to pull it out in the sun and let it bake in?
Not just yet, need to do some sanding and buffing.
Have Doc visit first thing of morning, get a Aortic Ultrasound as due to being a long time smoker in the past, find out how much actual damage I did. Afterwards be coming home to work on the beast some more. Have until Friday to get much more done, then going to OK, pickup tires and give JY another few days of extra hands on his shop mods.. Be back Monday the 22nd where will order frame paint for the rear and install the tires to wheels, dispose of the old ones. Will be busting it to get the odd small parts polished and back on after paint buff. Have exhaust pieces thru the mufflers to hang, not sure how tall or if turnouts for stacks yet, loads of odds and ends to still get including a grill. Most of the old Chrome and Stainless parts need buff out and shined up.
By the time you sand with super fine and buff it will real nice good colors.
Doc appt. went fine report already in, Nothing as to Aneurism evidence, Aortic wall appears to be nominal in thickness, does have a "Ectasia" spot 2.8cm x 1.9cm where explained in the report just need to review that in Five Years. Got back to sanding this morning, already POd, a bubble at the R Headlamp bucket Outer corner of hood came away this morning, looks like MORE mask and REDO. Walked out of shop and going to lunch with ,y cousin at noon. Damned near had Right Side of Hood completed, then this, will have to feather out dress and repaint that area and re-clear that same spot, will likely shoot a re-clear to entire Headlamp Bump on Fender.
Might want to drag it out here when I get this pole barn done, no humidity to mess with the painting
Three and a half days later, JY has a reasonable shop bathroom electrical is supplied and working as is sink and toilet he had already set. Tires are here, he was as correct as could be, as to 30-40% tread life remaining at about 3/8”, no boots plugs patches or nails/screws M853 Bridgestones
I do not expect to challenge Ice or Snow or even Torrential Rain with these but for my uses may last a REALLY decent amount of time. Good point Elmer Fudd - Be very, very quiet - YouTube
This is what you need for tires I’m 6’ tall BTW
No, Quite satisfied with no intelligence challenges to a old Road Truck with OLDER Road Driver that has NO Business challenging his OWN Stupid Side!!
I’m thinking DMiller may not want any tire howl on the pavement
Today was a slacker day Mounted tires to the two spare Pete ovals, swapped to the ovals positions on truck then stripped those, new valve stems and replaced tires swapped to where had large round hand holes, dropped those tires and stripped rims for buffing. Swung the new fronts, stripped those two rims for outer rears. Now have to find who will accept the pulled 6 as scrappers and for what fee. Done for today.
Farmer will want them. most always do.
Local tire shop said may have a buyer, if not $22 each disposal fee. Easy choice.
Farmers around here end up with some of our take offs-if they run 295/75 22.5.
My dump will take them by weight if I cut the sidewall from the tread. Sawzall with demo blade. But they want more than $22 per tire if I bring them whole.
Whole tires are like vampires. Bury them as deep as you can and they always work their way back to the surface or they catch fire. Cut them through the middle or the tread or shred them and the bodies stay buried.
Wife wanted to use my old ones as planters, I put my foot down on that one. Nope ain't happening, they are going to recycler not staying here.
At the top of Rye Grass I-90 between Ellensburg and Vantage, there is a gulley full of tires that Kittitas Co allowed-on county land plus a gulley full of human waste from King Co. Which made headlines in the local paper because of all the volunteer tomato and melon plants that popped up. I guess Seattleites like their maters and melons, but hate their used tires.
No sense of humor over here when it comes to old tires.
Can burn a limited volume of them in brush piles, IIRC the limit is four auto or two truck or tractor tires, know that is not monitored as watched several dozen go into one brush pile. Been explained is a norm to burn as many as can pack in, just do not wish to be first caught.
When I was real young, my grandpa used to get the organic solids waste from the local sewage treatment plant to spread on his fields for free. It was almost a slurry and couldn't be spread when they brought it out, so it was dumped on the edge of the field and allowed to dry out over the summer to be spread after harvest. My dad and grandpa swore they've never ate better tomatoes than the volunteer plants that grew off the slurry pile as it dried out. That's kind of how it happens around here too. Guys do it, just dont get caught. I grew up in a dense residential area around a lake. My neighbor, who's house is 40 ft from my parents, decided to burn a small pile of brush on a large pile of tires instead of pay for disposal. The black plume could be seen for miles. The fire department got called out to extinguish the fire and he got fined heavily for it. Later, he lost the house to foreclosure (650 sq ft POS house on .1 acre lot). My dad bought it and we discovered that partially burnt pile was still on the back edge of his lot, under all sorts of other junk he left.
My father was Fire Warden. He was a conservationist before the term Environmentalist was used. He went off for training where pollution was a big part of the subject matter. After that, no more burning insulation off copper scrap & no more burning tires. I'd still sneak them under a pile, then sweat it if he came around before or during light up. My system works great! I put three tires stacked. Bottom tire gets gasoline, second gets diesel, third gets drain oil. Pile the brush on top. Light up involves throwing a coffee can of gas on it, then a match. Years after Dad's death I got a burn permit from the then Fire Warden, a man so contrary he washed with dirt & dried off with water. I was sure he'd refuse me the permit. Instead he granted the permit, & asked if I needed any tires!
You must have a different kind of farmer there here no farmer would be caught dead with some ones old used tires on his truck. There are some short haul owners that will use them.
I used to buy tire casings from my tire shop with about 30% tread left for my old tandem grain truck. That particular truck never went to town so there was no point putting new tires on it because they would have rotted off long before they wore out
To burn a tire here for any reason would be seen the same as lighting an orphanage on fire. In many parts you aren't allowed to burn brush at all. Clearing contractors have to bring in grinders and then have a place to dispose of the material.
Around here they are taken free as recycling. They make bumper curbs as one product.
nothing better than a good ****** tomato.
Not to run, to hold plastic on a silage bunk.
We used to use car tires to hold down plastic on silage. Nobody wants to handle a few hundred truck tires on a hot day
Not me I don’t run any scabs or recaps. I am a tire snob. I can’t stand miss matched tires.
That pen & ink I did for you has a two toyo's on the left rear and the rest are dc's with one toyo and a continental on the steer.
Just the semi truck tire sidewalls. Seperate the tread fron sidewall, keep sidewall, trash the tread part. They work really well for keeping silage plastic down, and they don't hold foul water. We stack then as we remove from pile, and then use a bale spear to carry them up onto the pile.
Pretty sure all the drives are the same. You might have me on the steer tires. Lol
You actually checked,------------lol.
I can’t stand mismatched tires either. I seldom run them out either. About 5-6 years is it, especially steers. I don’t buy junk either. For what a failure can cost why take a chance. Around the farm is different but up and down the road I won’t risk it. I will say had the decision been up to me in regard to the tires I sent with Miller I’d have run them longer. I did what I was told, got new and kept them
I pull trailers and drives on average at 5 to 6/32nds. Steers if wearing straight 8/32nds. Just depends.
Of my 8 drive tires on my dump truck I have 5 different brands, steers are a different brand again. As long as the steers match and the rest are in good shape and reasonably same tread depth I couldn't careless beyond that. Going to be replacing 4 of them within a year or two due to sidewall cracks and will buy all the same, but I don't care if they match what's on there now. I just hope by then prices are back down to like $200/tire for a decent chinese tire.
Been working early of days to stay in the cool in Cut & Buff about got the machine where I will just tolerate the miscellaneous flaws and small rough spots as paint will still look better than the aged rot it had. Had door open airing the dust and late previous day’s heat out as Sun came up, got to looking at the color where believe actually got something right!! The Deep Blue KW Metallic paint code is supposed to do this!! Direct to side Off angle to front
Has pearl in the base. Looks good.
Looking GOOOOOOOD
Well I missed a "Buy" from one of the Wife's Co Worker friends. Seems her Family is from St James MO, they had a Sale this Weekend, loads of Farm Schtuff, most of it(99%) incapable of running or being used. One of the Items, a 1974 4070A Sleeper, Cummins on Hendrickson RUBBER Ride. Do NOT know and will NOT ask what it sold for, most likely either a 220 or 250 in it.
Paint looks nice!
SC-350.
I personally hated the hendrickson rubber block suspension. Too rough for my spine
Was considering MAY have been a 335SC
Seems like your wife held back the sale info until it was too late. She knew you couldn't resist buying more trucks.
Maybe About the only machine I would have bid on was a Stude ton and half. Heard it sold for $2200, NOT running nor complete. The 4070a was a Super 250 on a 8LL, guy that bought it has been calling any and everyone to get it running, paid $6500 for that!! As far as My progress Still have two paint repairs but need mind right before go there, otherwise been reinstalling stuff, next up will be markers(wire mods), eye brow and horn trumpets. Trying to get it weather tight so once get paint work done can go Outside.
Looks real nice DM!
Needs loads of shining and cleaning besides getting my head right to fix the two paint blurbs Thanks TS
Unless the paint blurbs are real noticeable-When I riveted the top hood sections to the side pieces on my Mack It ended up with a slight pucker between two rivets. After the third time around on that hood-I said screw it and left it. No one noticed unless I pointed it out. and I was ok with it. Again--looks great!
Replacement markers wired up, roof penetration plugs sealed, anti seize on screws. Installed fender turn signals, repaired OE plug in connections. All works as supposed to Need to get additional three feet of two wire sheathed for air cleaner markers. Even the rivnut hole I had to glass in came in square.
VERY NICE WORK that you have done. Thank you for taking the time to share your project. I am looking forward to the 1st Test Drive.
Like those short stacks.
Wanted to keep overall height under 10’, those made it happen. Saw no need for 13 footers, not going to escape noise from engine or exhaust.
Update on paint repairs, after MUCH discussion with the body shop guys and the PPG paint rep, got pricing for additional [MAYBE] supplies and decided going to HAVE to repaint the entire Right Fender to make it look correct. PPG makes a Blending Clear, smallest volume available 1 gallon, OVER $500 plus cost of hardener and rate control additives where would still have to apply to over 1/2 the fender surface with use of existing Gray I would have mixed in, so NO Brainer, Repaint ENTIRE fender surface with supplies HERE. Already own the Gray partial gallon so least expense EXCEPT for Time. Rear Fenders may require purchase of MORE paint or may end up doing a different scheme with the Blue and the Gray as did on hood to cut expenses there too. Rear Sleeper corner, will repaint that corner Panel and re-clear again no brainer, supplies are here and paid for. Cut and Buff was going painstakingly SLOW, My Own fault as MY technique was most of that problem. Not ever dealt with Clear Coat buff before, buffed old enamels before and not near as painstaking. BIGGEST Issue with my technique, buffing TOO MUCH AREA, at a time. Was explained need Towels, LOADS of DRY, CLEAN towels, buff a 2'x2' patch, Wipe It Down, buff until happy on that spot, move to next, so far going better in that respect. Toweling off removes Paint cut away you CANNOT see, that becomes a Epoxy Grinding Compound if not removed as do small areas, will move with buffing head as well so WASH OUT the Heads OFTEN changing out to Dried Clean heads so bought a few more. Is a reason that **** is everywhere in body shops, is being cleaned or dried or readying for cleaning and spares left as needed everywhere. So MORE time to spend correcting MY poor skills with modern paints. So will be Stripping the small stuff BACK OFF that fender today.
When can we change the name of this thread to finishing the KW?
If ya want to!!
Wife has actually started looking into rolling **** houses, looking at prices, models, variations for given years and out of production models. No intent as to buying new, be looking at 5-10 years age where may end up its own project. So long as weather tight, no structural accident damage or absolute misuse or intentionally ignored issues.
Coming on to two years of progress on this with it on and off as had to, mostly due to my own failings for excess time at it. Been quite a challenge at times almost as if the beast wanted to remain retired!! Once get the base truck done and can go outside, awaiting two thick wall grommets for mirror heat cables to have cab weather tight, will rework the fenders to install. Hoping to have it fully completed some time November or early December. Then to get state inspected and licensed first of ‘23.
At least strip down was not as bad as considered, now to sanding.
Well out of comfort zone today. Almost to point of hand sand close edge details.
So, ran out of plastic so hdwe store tomorrow, open at 7. First off will be prime sealant on lift spot. Little blend sand and wipe down can move to colors.
Last of the Major Components I will need to buy is a Faux Grilldenser Grill (prefer that look) and a Hood internal Insulation package, for noise and heat. All but three retainer stubs are still under the hood, have all but four press fit plastic washers for the system where found it comes with those new, replacement Bumper mount bolts and Dulled or Flattened Black Frame Paint. Beyond those will need to rebuild the Fbgls fenders sitting next to my shop and install. Still need to get back inside Right door as latch will not open from inside and need to go thru AC system AGAIN. As to Rear sleeper corners, we have a company called Craftsman Industries near here, may see if can form some Stnls Stl rolled covers for the lower regions, 22" tall, roughly 11" OA Wide on a 4" Radius.
Cocoon completed, fender and corner wiped down with oil/grease remover, evaporated MASSIVELY quick so shot an eye at thermometer, 97 in shop, called it for today, took a shower.
First layer prime sealer on corner, will see if tries to lift before further adds.
Started Color, one small run on second coat blue on corner will sand out before Clear. Gray on the other hand for some really BAD reason ran in three spots, is humid as hell and reducer not flashing well enough, will have to allow to dry an hour to sand those down prior to a second coat.
Gray ran on side face under T/S hole area and at front under headlamp bucket. Really pizzed me off yet is only First coat.
Managed to get sand out done and third coat to fender. Will be around 11 ish and can spray clear.
So far So good
Well I am TORQUED. Two places on Outer Fender Flange are funky, clear is on and looks TERRIBLE. Top of Fender and Head lamp bucket is Fine, just that outer flange so will resort to masking THAT off and Stripping THAT back down and repaint just that flange side. Just Worked up beyond sense. Nothing seems to go well on this job.
Don’t get so down DMiller, you’re not a professional body man/painter. Think you’re doing an amazing job, I would never tackle painting something like that, dump body or flatbed is about as adventurous as I would get. Hang in there, have a nice bourbon tonight and git after it again tomorrow, you’re sooooo close, it’ll feel real good when it’s done.
Old body man quote Cannot make the fault stop, sNd it down, start over And here I am today, and yes sucks
Started at 4:30 this morning, first coat THREE GD Runs, allowed to dry where could sand them out then TWO additional coats, picked FOUR GD Gnats off the wet second coat. On last coat spotted a hair or piece of lint or gnat tracks on fender transition edge, in a few minutes will LIGHTLY sand that down and hit the area ONE LAST TIME. Should all go well, FINGERS ALL CROSSED!, will be spraying Clear at 9:30/10 this morning. WHAT A FORKING BIOTCH this fender has been!!
Spot turned out to be yet Another GD gnat Rolled around like a mud wrestler before succumbed. Sanded, wiped with reducer, allowed to flash and used up last of paint in cup. Result before Clear Wet area just right of reflection halo on rear view was Gnat
Gun clean Be about an hour to start clear
lots of work and looks amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Would not wish this on a experienced body man!!!
I remember being at my cousins shop as soon as he put the paint gun down he grabbed the tweezers.
I've always hated automotive paints and painting. Thinners, reducers, hardeners, correct air and feed flows, HPLV guns, clean air and on and on. I have a very high opinion of your work and professionalism on the project. I painted my house a week ago. That's the extent of any painting I ever intend to do for the rest of my life.
Some days YOU get the bear, my week has been the Bear and has CHEWED Heavily on my tuccas.
Tuccas? sounds like a odd band instrument, something you would shake.
Tuccas, butt, ass, brown eye cover!!
Glad is down to cut and buff finish with install of trim pieces as far as external cab. Still need to work on right door inside latch, finish route of mirror wiring, hang grill surround. Rear frame will need some spots primer sealed then paint that which is less than critical. Really glad not painting this morning, trying to rain, 57 degrees. From one extreme swing the other way.
Now it sounds more like a hub cap.
You got this Dave!
More buffing , that getting closer earlier today, moved to finishing lawn mowing, eyes full of dust and pollen, nose on fire inside, nasty as it dries down here. Did finish reassembling all the right fender parts. Getting ready to spot paint a few rivets I hit too harsh with cut and buff, then Eye Brow Visor goes back on with air horn trumpets. Picked up the frame paint, suggested I hit any bare spots with spot prime sealer I have remaining. Curious mix rate, 6:1:1, all three parts supplied, Gallon Paint Pint each Activator and Reducer. Satin Finish Black once dries. Also dug out a remnant sheet 1/4" plate for Fender Bracket bases, derived some rough measurements will cut the four frame plates and drill to mount as get ready to paint frame. Ordered four .024 SS precut sheets, need to find a decent way to radius the two for the Sleeper corners will be two additional in first panel on sleeper back next to those corners, rock beatings just too severe, and ordered a drop at least 4' of 2x2x .250 Sq Steel for rear support pieces.
Wife took photo as I washed rear frame areas, for paint. All but Fenders, Grill insert and Walk Plates are on it now.
Looks great Dave!
Thanks
Damn! That looks good!
Beautiful, I'm with TS on the stacks, don't need no antenna feelers looking for low passes to touch unnecessarily. Just need a great angle view for new avatar image of it.
Looks fantastic DMiller! So if you’re not putting 8” diameter-way-too-tall stacks on it, should we all assume you won’t be tinting the windows too dark and putting a seat in it that barely lets you see over the steering wheel??
No super trucker Bull Rack gigantmo exhaust, wife would like draw shade style sun visor inside right door and MAY get her a school bus style green second w/s visor as the OEMs are not much of anything. No tint, no narrowed vision appliqués to W/S or side glasses, no need. Air ride that can sit almost on floor is in but I still prefer up to down, just adjustable for the day.
One oddity I AM putting back in beside the mufflers already on is the under hood insulation package. Is right at a grand but I suspect well worth it for noise and heat.
And y’all can laugh, one of my pet peeves is attended to. They fit well and bright enough to stand out, no worries of turbo or engine damage but exhaust is quite a bear to replace and expensive. For long duration parking.
Do the same with the tow truck. Chrome elbows aren't cheap.
We had a Case 9250 with a Cummins M11 that we learned the hard way would flood the entire exhaust system if parked a facing South. We learned quick to not park that direction, and use a bucket over the stack whenever possible.
I would have thought you would use exhaust tips a couple feet taller to get the noise and soot away from the cab/bunk or are those temporary ones? Overall, nice job!
Are permanent, get as much or more noise from engine compartment, should not see deposits inside bunk.
Got initial rear fender brackets cut out, moved on to wheels. One was really nasty, was coffee brown had so much something cooked to it. Tried diesel, nothing moved, stepped up to acetone, nada, enamel reducer still Nada. Grabbed lacquer thinner not much if any change so next trick oven cleaner. Laid there like water so off to store, aircraft paint remover. Laid it on almost putty knife thick, Barely nudged any at all so screw it out came DA 320/600/1000/1500. No idea what kind of pasty crap it was but was a bear to move Off, gear oil or road oil cook tight. So worst rim cleaned up out came Zephyr buffer head and compound as well tyvek suit and respirator. First pass heavy cut, still pitted but shines First two wheels complete on firat pass.
My buffer and a partial compound block Fender frame plates, 1/4” material
Will spend a little more time on center regions, get them presentable. Other two wheels DO have Road oil blobs on them, will get those off next.
That was a inside wheel at one time, you can see where the hub flange was in contact.
Was a inner a long time was like epoxy coated
That coating is brake dust and salt/de-icing fluid that the brake drum cooked to the rim, one good winter that and it becomes layers. These were 5 year old insides, looked the same, a lot of work it is. Your getting them looking good.
Will continue to work on them make em shine!!
Picked up my steel order, drilled and set fender weldment plates Figure to Tack Weld the fender mounts in a trial fit up, then remove fenders and full weld mounts, paint mounts with frame.
Got all four buffed, redid and got more of the pits out of fourth. Mounted tires. More fun tomorrow. Soon as fender brackets in place and frame painted last four tires go on
Yesterday wife decided time to get looking, for rolling shathouse. Dropped southeast to Pacific MO Several dealers along I-44, moved north from there to OFallon MO to head west back towards home. She has not seen many so we did view several models and styles as well makes. All ranges of pricing on new ones, few to any used on the lots, found are wholesaling 90% of trade ins as ‘23 model year units are due to start arriving. 22s may end up wholesaled to clear lots. Wife liked a couple different ones, she loses track of what looked at gets more confused at every stop so I made notes. Byerly RV had a nice Rogue, Travers RV had one I preferred was a Torque. Both new both expensive but Travers started discounted pretty quick. Both of those we liked were under 38’. Went to Camping World RV associated to Gander Outdoors(RV company owns Gander), only had XLR series as a toy hauler, not very well appointed for the money asked. Had a flopped sale Fuel unit again right at 38’, wife thought she could like as again price reduction almost immediate as all these were ‘22 models and excess inventory. She mainly was looking at layouts, materials grades, double duty of garage spaces and associated functions: Generators, many have Solar battery tender systems on inverters for the trailer, most have stopped using the old LP/12v fridges and water heaters opting to demand flow water heat and almost residential appliances. As got home with model numbers and names started searches for used, not much currently but can see numbers increases as to new ads over the last months.
https://youtube.com/c/AZExpert I follow him he points out the flaws and as far as I know isn’t affiliated with any manufacturer he’s also does quite a few videos on trouble areas to look for on used units
Fenders(both sides) sitting on the truck, air deflated. Tacked fronts in place but not happy with position, those will get dropped another 1/2 -3/4” Rears have to make up a new pipe section, rough measure is 20” where will have to Gas axe the several feet of welds off the old mounts to replace that too short piece. May sound dumb but I am going to saber saw that entire red line region OFF, in the way and is not a strength necessity, curve along top to Side is the strength region. Backside red line is a strength zone, will remain.
So, roughly how long until the test-drive?
At least couple weeks prep paint rear frame, repair prep paint fenders and reinstall. Minor repairs to finish inside cab. Working to get past T-day, Deer season, Xmas shopping. Still need a grill and walk plates. it is close
Fender fit up, mounts welding done Now to strip the fenders BACK off to address body work.
Rear mounts were a bit TOO Wiggly for myself, the Ground Electrode Clamp seen above is hanging on a 1" sq piece of tube between the lower ends of the rear mounts, there are two pieces of 1x1x 1/4" blocks that keep it oriented to the bracing steel for the rear hitch plate so will no longer wiggle. Tomorrow the fenders come off the mounts and frame prep can continue where hope to spray frame on Friday. Frame gets done, the fenders will be alone on the shop space to be repaired and prepped, and the rear tires/wheels will be fully installed.
I got nothing as impressive as yours. Mrs. B shopped at GREAT length for a 6000 LB trailer to tow with what we have. Every turn, she found a "perfect" trailer 10,000 LB or more. I assured her the Topkick could easily tow her choice, even bigger, with a Jeep on the deck. I've been following your journey. Hope next phase is as fun.
Looks great DMiller.
Fenders are off brackets, cleaned as much as care to for paint and began the mask up. Will have to pull truck forward until sleeper clears shop door and close it almost to frame, block steering tires, remove drives, set on stands under hubs. Then can prime fender brackets effectively as well the fresh welds at the rear and access to paint pumpkins/banjo housings/drive shafts/axle flanges, suspension mechanisms as can shoot to and tail plate. Soon as dry will get all eight rear tires, then will unmask to go fully OUTSIDE.
In my opinion on picking a rolling schithouse I would look to one with aluminum wall framing, they seem to be more well built and hold value longer. So when the roof goes to leaking (in the next 10 years) and you finally find it you still have a structure that isn't rotting and filling up with mold.
Many of the later units are a odd named FRP side wall for strength as used on seni trailers long ago, delamination is a big concern. Today started early, duals off more mask and on stands. That was 6am, and results as of now. 10 am Paint gear cleaned up, awaiting last of mixed atuff to congeal then can load trash bags
Next in the process
Fenders gonna take some time!! Have to get structure integrity back together, find a source for self adhesive Jute 1/8” then can flip to showy side and work on those smaller issues Three layers burned thru in spots Have to layer back in to stop cracks already forming. And yes, that one darker spot is wet, Sucking water out with rags to wick it up, will then have to heat gun the face and boil remnants out.
Made a text to a Boat shop here in town, to see if have any of the Foam Core that was hidden in these spots, may have to make something else do for that as was only around 1/8" thick, should hear back on Monday. The Noise covering should not be a issue, any resilient, self adhesive covering to stop rock banging from underside will do.
Looks like mass loaded vinyl also known as sound dampening vinyl glued on with some strong adhesive. It's what I used to insulate the inside of my camper, at least one of the three layers of insulation in here. I would clean up the fiberglass and fill it in with more fiberglass and epoxy/resin layers several. Put a layer on let dry for bit and keep doing till filled out then sand it down and put the MLV on with some adhesive to hold it.
The inner skin on the fender is separated from the outer by the thin foam glassed between, can see multiple purposes as to not transferring noise and contact fracturing from thrown materials as rocks or spalled pavement chunks, also reduces weight increases flexibility. Think will stay will similar basis. The other noise sheets could be mlv, tears like old style self adhesive jute we put under car mats and carpets. Will get one or other as finish rehab. As dug around in the break spots is pretty evident of that foam breaking down from water and spray as exposed areas were further damaged yet pretty stabile not far away from chewed edges.
Packing foam they use to pack packages or sill plate sealant foam might fit the bill on thickness up in there. Sill plate foam is what I wrapped the poles on my pole barn with to allow the concrete to expand/contract I poured two days ago.
I still have some, somewhere, may have to do some digging!! How did the Floors turn out??????
Turned out great, better than expected, the hours upon hours of reading up helped, the information you and everyone else provided helped with suggestions and watching videos helped. Now I have been busy watering it when it gets over 50 degrees to help the crystals grow and make the slab stronger plus prevent cracking much as possible. Next up relief cuts with my circular saw.
Attacked inner or under skin burn thrus today, couple spots will just get a resin reapply, did find some resilient foam to layer in before glass back over.
Body work is nasty enough, glass work is a nasty all to itself. Will itch for a month from it. Is not that I do not know how to work body repairs, just never gained much care of it even as did plenty of it.
I've done minor fiberglass repairs to boats. It seems the "fun" goes away pretty fast.
Well today is a Shrek day Layers Little hairs everywhere Swampy Stinky Ugly Sticks To Everything it Touches Slimy until Hardens Unwanted Bubbles Rising to the Top. Almost Terd Like!!
Use a heat gun to make it thinner to get the bubbles out, don't tell your wife this but her hair dryer will help too
Have a pair of heat guns, both donated by previous employers that could not get them repaired, soldered a few minor connections and been great since. Used for Heat Shrink, glue prep, glass work.
Turned these over, started cleaning off burn marks and Rock starbursts top sides.
Sanded down as far as I wanted to, seems there was considerable cover-over from older damage the previous repairer just filled with primer and repainted. Will be considerable resin then filler go on these. Outer outline is most recent repaint, then a gray region then next white layer and more gray then glass. Some spots have Red Bondo in them.
Id grind the back side, place a coat of saturated cloth there, then grind away all of the fractured fiberglass. build from there.
I'd offer fiberglass advice, but I'm so lazy those fenders would have long been in the scrap pile. Let the rocks fly.
The outer skin is slightly cooked from duals contact, Underside is repaired at these points, should be able to get resin back into the glass and filler over on top skin. Just a great deal of area to work. Black Dot is not a hole, is where the backing foam showed thru from the break thru in the original photos.
Resin and matte on spots more severe this morning, will layer in more matte later today on DEEP spots as on Tail Lamp box, the Hole spot and a physical break on R Rr fender top. So far nothing beyond repairable. Will have close to $800 JUST in paint for these with the Primer and Primer Sealer. Had to buy quart more Paint and Clear as to dealing with the Front Fender repaints. Odd event, pulled paint can (Almost Empty) where I THOUGHT had read hand written 'Gray' on top Lid to order the Quart, ended up Consequentially ordering more Blue so these will be Blue with what is left of Gray can spray Tail Light Boxes as a Offset and Use Up. I dare say with all the Grief I had spraying the Front Fenders (Five Total Times!! 2L, 3R) some force directed me to buy Blue where I am NOT upset as that sprayed Well.
DM-when the mack went away I put a empty quart can of base coat in box and put it in the side step box, the color was odd, so the brand and paint code were with it.
I actually have written down the PPG numbers and the KW paint codes for these, everything I have used have receipts will go with it as it goes away some day. Tonight went with wife to a Health Trail just before a VFW fish fry Guy across the street has a yard full of crap and a Yellow B Mack with chrome radiator shroud sitting back in the pile. May get a chance to photo later. Place its parked at is a barn at 16th and Wein St in Hermann.
After the fenders today, glass patches set up so started dissecting edge parts smoothing out bad spots. Just started on surface filler.
Surface filler Still finding spots
A few spots of Glass Resin repairs and a little more surface putty on. Will finish up the prep tomorrow after Dentist visit. No sense being in a hurry, Epoxy Primer and sealer will not be here until Thursday.
This was smashed along the bottom where the hinges attach. It is my opinion that it was poor engineering at the factory level. Other GM hoods have a similar hinge arrangement. None have the headlight buckets this close. Note the "wings" on the hinges, 34 extra stainless 1"-12 stainless sheet metal screws & a mountain of extra fiberglass with 1/4" aluminum plate embedded in it. I ain't fast but I'm good.
I looked at 50? other hoods. Some were broken as bad as mine, A few were thousands of dollars.
You can't see aluminum fabrications behind the non vent portion of the grill. They carry stress at hinges to further up in the structure. Bolt heads (stainless) are hidden behind the dummy panels outboard sections of the grill.
Is hard to find anything built from Fiberglass not self destructing or severely damaged, includes boats.
There are 2 never used S series IH hoods behind the shop i havent saw in years i bet there trash.
Nasty week so far. Dentist visit yesterday, hour and half then numb mouth for two after. Today had the only Motorcycle appointment could scrape up, NOBODY has decent or numerous techs to get anything done. Independents used to use all retired or closed up same issue of No help, two closer dealers, one 67 miles one 62 and neither had opening until today for the 67 mile ride to Columbia MO, the other one stated December EARLIEST. Left at quarter to 9, 28 degrees leathers and long handles on, bike serviced came home 37 degrees so still cool on the highway but at least sun well up.
Visit today, Labparamour showed up got the Grand Tour, great visit. KW Purred like a kitten after sitting these last colder days. Really enjoyed the visit, enjoy as much putting faces to names. Great guy staying at his kids south of here. Primer did not show up until late, driver was taking his time for some odd reason today so no progress other than grease/oil wipe down earlier.
Lab is a good guy.
Three full coats epoxy primer One quart with hardener, gets sprayed raw no reducer 2:1, hardens almost as fast as laid down. Be ready for paint in hour or two as cool as is. All the flaws stand out and are gonna stay, I will not ever attest to being a body man.
Looks good from here
As long as stay THERE will look Picture Perfect!!!
Lol
Well the great day humid and temp wise took a dump Color wrong still Wanted on left received on right A Taste light. Figured DID order gray 908947, got Blue 909847, numbers transposed. They are replacing wrong color.
Darn, sorry getting the right color has become such a hassle. Thanks again for showing me the KW- gonna be great when you can get her out on the road! You have a beautiful place and I enjoyed the day! Great members on the forum
Only gets MORE Fun. Our pup Odie fell off the bed the other night have him on tramadol to keep pain down, sluggish and ungainly may have a swollen spine issue, and just a few minutes ago came in from peeing, carried a yellow jacket in his tail and stepped on it. Now favoring Rt Rr foot. Vet said break a 25mg Benedryl in half and try to get that down, ain't working.
Can you crush it and put in canned food or sandwich meat? Kid’s liquid Benadryl? (Though some dogs always know when you’re trying to slip them something)
He can smell it. Gave up, he is on couch sleeping so should wear off on its own.
Our Greyhound has to take some pills for a liver problem. We had a hard time getting him to take them. Vet suggested cutting a full size marshmallow in half and hiding the pills in that. That has been working fine, he'll sit down and take them out of your hand.
Poor old dachsy has decreased pancreas function so pretty limited on hide foods Marshmallow sounds a good idea
We slip an 81 aspirin in a slit in a piece of wiener and it's gone. He's figured out cheese, deli meet and a lot of other things. I hope he can't read as hi is sitting beside me as I am typing. Cam
Sting should be about worn off this morning, may be a bit tender but wearing away. Back issue the vet said just have to await more time as swelling and what ever else injured settles out. He is coming on 18 years old, the vet said could be his downfall more ways than one. My guess is deceased MIL wants his company again.
Little fella is doing better of the sting this morning, already slipped him a Tramadol, is not quite as weak when walking so that may be working off too.
Jeez, what next?
Exactly.
Be careful. My understanding is aspirin is bad for dogs. Our vet has us using Galliprant as anti-inflammatory. There are other K9 specific Anti-inflammatories, too
Built my Radius Tool for the SS corner panels while awaiting paint materials Did not turn out too rough
Have two Flat panels for next section over on back wall to cover rock and other stuff dents
BILs boy called last evening Works for Harbor Freight. Have a 40’ CONEX at his store the lease holder to the building wants removed. He is aligning me with first work for the KW, said lease discussions take Months where this is just starting. Will be into late winter before negotiations are done and then said wants me to come get it. Currently on thin blocking to pavement where will require crane or wrecker to lift and set to a support structure so can back trailer beneath it. Will also need a 40’ deck drop deck to get it and keep it low for load/unload, Already started looking around.
Shop called 10am Paint in!! Paint is On and Clear three coated, Had a sweat dribble pissoff, then Two Jap Beetles a Fly and multiple gnats had to remove Will buff those **** spots out
Tomorrow, between rains will set fenders off stands, put stands away, put scaffolds away, install fenders and back truck back into shop for other work.
Looks nice!
Then take picture for new avatar picture on here... Looks great!!!
you're doing nice work, Dave.
Shop is ALMOST back to a Workshop Last tarp is down and all folded, leaving that small scaffold as a temp work bench until put away all the paint gear/materials. Raining its butt off here, truck not coming in until after lunch.
And then they are On and is raining to beat hell again And I have to mix some touch up.
Got my big nasty spot touched up and started on Lamp harness for rear lighting. Using Six wire cable thing back G on Left and Y on Right, white and brown are grounds in short cables DOT Y for L S/T, G for R S/T, Bl for Tail. Not confusing at all to me.
Tail lamps completed satisfied with todays endeavors, made first test drive. Just under two miles to county crossroad south of here currently YT loading. Tail looks good, also full up to full down on bags And yes the LED lamps are bright
First at speed run All instruments were working, know about what speed is capable of, had window down for the ride. Phone fell over on dash. Shifted smoother than expected.
She looks great and sounds sweet! I guess I should have brought champagne for christening instead of coffee.
LOL!! Coffee is fine and really good!! Keeps my head clearer!
Nice! great to see it underway.
Was sweet to have on the road.
Sounds very nice. Love the turbo whistle.
One thing to check when you’re looking at toy haulers is the hitch pin to camper body distance. I have 3 trucks I can pull my toy hauler with and the deck length on one makes it “ interfere”if I turn too short.
Nicely done!
MKS Already carrying tape!! last look around found most will have no less than 6” clearance during turns to outer fender corner.
Expand on that 58.5" Lead side of pin to outer face of tail board, 71.75" far edge of pin to outer fender corner, wheel at furthest rear. Last three campers, shortest measured 78.4" Lead Edge of pin to closest physical component of trailer body. Wheel deck height on truck is close to same as my F250 with a Reese wheel in it. Have angle Iron to extend slider rails if feel a need, or to install a Reese style removable wheel closer rear of frame and still maintain standard wheel for real work.
I've been following this from the beginning. Great job! It's been going on so long I forgot what you're going to use it for. What are you doing with it?
RSH dragger!! For the most part, will still have a weight tag so can pull a Real trailer on Occasion.
I’d definitely look into an air ride hitch on the rsh I’ve several that were beaten to pieces around the hitch area from the rougher ride of the bigger trucks
Already on the list!!
A lot of guys like the turbo whistle but i’m not a fan. It seems to penetrate my subconscious especially after a long day on a gravel haul with continually shifting up and down
Busy day today, got Defrost to cab points duct damper motor changed. Buried alive right side of heater box behind glove box defrost damper had jumped track on drive head so all is better where old driver was intermittent in function besides. All mirror functions to right side all connected and dash back together. Moved to grill, preliminary set of aftermarket unit and had to trim 1/4” from lower edge of fins and side plates as holes disappeared by that dimension. Back in place got all but lowest bolts in place as need to pull bumper for forearm clearance to set nuts. Then the big surprise, fins are deeper by 1/4” and tubes slightly larger diameter so vertical bar retainer screws too short, back to hardware store tomorrow.
Got correct screws to set grill verticals so installed this morning, took my whoopin graciously. Two 1x4s three feet long some electrical wire remnants and had enough extra hands to hold them in place as set the screws from inside the hood while open, by my self. Old jewel just about did and done. Did some math on progress, had $23k and change last year for tax time in it, just over $17 so far this year luckily did not have to await finances for drive tires. Going to end up close to $44/45k in materials, and of course labor is a wash. Old GMs I traded were around $7-8k between the two and a few odds/ends with a little more labor tossed in, won’t ever be a New just a New To Me unit but am considering could not have what I do now without the effort. Will get it all complete next couple days, still have right door apart for not opening from inside, parts coming. Then will get a pic against the house as backdrop. Is close to getting MO state Safety inspection so can get licensed.
I really did need a 16' ceiling shop with a 14' door, 40' depth would have been nice too!!! Did not ever expect to do a monster as this at home.
Looks good setting in there.
I think i will be building a shop before long i think a 30x40 would be ok. I like trucks and heavy equipment but i done alot of that stuff in the past and dont think i will miss it.
Seems ALWAYS Something pops up. Steering gear seep has returned, Input Upper cover to main box(Along top Edge seam), input seal as well damp and a seep where know corrosion was not good. Can get a Weller Reman(out of STL) thru KW here, estimate was around $850 exch. Knew box could be a concern and it has shown out, at least that area of Inside Frame is Clean!!!
Better you find it now than later, but for the mileage that is on that truck-that's about the life expectancy of a steering gear. Probably a TRW-TAS box with auto set poppet relief valves for steering stops, which is a good thing, easy to install other than the weight.
TAS65079 Already resealed, just too far gone as noted. Seal kit was a less expensive try. Had the box off once, only problem originally was the depth of dirt on/in the allen head bolt. That is clean now.
Reseal was a bandaid on a axe gash, knew that.
Have been watching this am extremely empressed not many that can do everything. Engine rebuild body work air brake problems paint and body ect. Seems your a top hand why did you step out of the shop ??
Stepped out after 20+ years of being screwed over by unscrupulous employers inventing new ways to edge the floor hands out of income. The 1970s/80s were some tough lean years where either had to do it all and be decent at it or starve. Between tooling money, the employers, and the desire to be/do better for myself in a fresh opportunity I moved on. However, never really pulled up those roots.
Late start this morning as not really happy or unhappy on steer gear. Called MHC where could have it tomorrow, latest early next week dependent on in stock or close other dealer or delivery by Weller. Have core off. Also got trailer lines setup to my satisfaction, walk plates be here tomorrow.
Errands to run most rest of day so done for today unless parts arrive.
I've installed quite a few Weller reman steering gears, haven't had any issues with any of them.
That is comforting!!
Gear arrived this morning at CoMO dealer Sent it out with normal runs to arrive late day and I went to work on tanks. A little more effort, considerably more sanding and they do look better. Then gear arrived install a no brainer and no leaks Then looked at invoice And opted to call and let them know is a little discrepancy To MY favor: I could not do it and leave it know someone would catch sooner or later.
Good man.
Honesty is the best policy. I’m a firm believer in karma.
My wife's name is Carma, and I'm a believer, mainly because I'm on the receiving end of a shoe.
Ain’t gonna ask target zone!!! Prefer to remain on Good standing with parts department, MAY eventually look at a business class size replacement for the blue beast. Median size KW crew with a nice RSH would be purty and likely size wife could also handle.
If it was under way/rolling it would be SHR.
Just moments ago. Still setting up Electric brake controller but done for a short while. Have a retirement party to ready for and go to tomorrow and a Toy Ride cycle run Sunday.
And YES, I painted the Red Coffee Cans, for SWMBO!!! AND Before it is asked AGAIN, I Am NOT putting Super Trucker Nut Covers and Hub Caps on this machine. Does NOT Need them.
Nice work DM. should make an awsome rig for you.
Need a sign of sorts "It Was FucKenworth It" hanging off the back in the middle.
Then the Other shoe drops Wife has the Coof, one of her co-workers was nice enough to infect others there so all can enjoy yet again. I have not tested have no symptoms but likely have it anyway as had only the loss of taste and smell last time. Just waiting. Ao the two events are Off, be back at it later today.
All those nut covers do is trap moisture and rust the threads.
Old wagon is far from perfect, 18 years of Salt, lack of Concern by Drivers, an obvious wreck at some point, considerable decay is set in where will be a nice retirement for the both of us.
i used to run lug nut covers but when i went to change out a set of steer rubber, i found the threads out past the nuts were completely rusted off on the rh side. I likely had not taken them off for 5+ years and had forgot to remove them to coat the exposed threads. I had to replace all the studs on that side . I quit using them after that
From this poor critter to life in the HAMMER LANE once again, saved from dire straights. Very nice Work-Dave, You did a proud job.
Thanks for the reconstruct Beginning to End TS Much MUCH better without the Fleur d Les
Very impressive! Even a nice clean can on the exhaust.
Yeah, had to paint the cans for SWMBO!!
Awesome job Miller, love the truck and the build thread. One of the most impressive parts (there are many) to me is that you changed that air duct damper motor, how the heck did you do it without pulling the whole dash? I have never had to do it yet but have worked on most other aspects of the POS heater setups in those things and everytime I look at that motor I cringe knowing it is coming some day. If the plastic piece that connects the cam to the doors in the heater box break so they no longer function I have found that it works best to cut as big of a hole as you can right behind the glove box, make your repair and patch the hole however you see fit. The other thing that commonly happens on those is the fan motor resistor fails so you don't have all 3 fan speeds. It is buried down on the left side of the box and requires major disassembly of the lower dash to replace. I relocate it to the right side where they were for years on the old dashes and extend the wires to reach it and it works great and is easy to change the next time.
Major PITA Large hands did not help but managed, moved wiring and firewall insulation as could out of way and pulled lower cover below glove box. Actually used a old Wood Chisel to clean off the rivet heads to pull motor on the mount plate, took 4.5” cut off wheel to the nuts on the small studs and still broke one. Reimagineered that. At least only 1/8” rivets so when did get back into place and Double D drive aligned right slipped rivets into holes to hold it then hand rivet tool and set them. Bleeding was not a optional cannot accomplish, was a necessity in the process as was leaving skin behind.
Installed, not in a cumbersome spot, handy to fuse block and is active as well power to tail plugs confirmed. Cover that used to hang here was found in a side compartment, broken. Made a 1/8” thick aluminum screw plate for behind left hand dash panel as screw tabs were as usual broken away. Panel is just above the shown point.
Both of those areas on B model cabs took a beating when someone got in a hurry to remove the damper motor or gain access above clutch pedal.. I've changed those damper motors-not a fun job better off to figure in a 1/4 pack and three cups of coffee to complete the job. All the real late trucks the outer dash covers are force fit tabs and all plastic, can't get in hurry removing those or will be buying new dash parts and pieces-expensive. The plastic 7"x 11" power distribution box/fuse relay cover is a snap in-unsnap it wrong and it's $136.00 for a late model W900L. Dash work has always been a fight to keep your skin.
Plastic Cover over fuse block on this one long gone, was kind of handy the underdash cover here was busted up.
Forgot to mention, as repaired right door inside latch also replaced door seals, all good except have to roll window down a bit to close the damn doors now. This morning, got to fiddling with rear fenders, to Me were way too HIGH, reset the mounting and still retained 3/4-1" clearance rear duals to underside of fenders on the stops, dropped height by 1 1/2". With fifth wheel flat to frame have just at 3" from wheel deck to top of fenders.
Fenders do look better Down some Did a hair more cut and buff on sleeper back, installed conspicuity corner tape. Not sure need reflective at rear of fenders, then now pretty well cover tape on flap straps. Did swirl mark buff some on hood and all doors.
Nice arse.
Done for winter now. Due for Sub freezing temps, WET stuff albeit freezing rain or snow or what ever coming next week. AC is down, leaked completely off what had put in it, where before fell apart my electronic detector said Compressor Shaft Seal. Will get a new unit with a clutch then pull down all the oring connections, reseal EVERYTHING and then replace drier and recharge, IN SPRING. Do not need AC currently. Appt. on the 17th NOV. 7:30am MO State Insp, with similar appt after at local shop for DOT inspect. May be able to get license prorated for 22 and full 23 first week of DEC.
Skyking from out west was traveling thru, took a Airbnb not far from us, had coffee and a BS Session with he and the wife this morning, Damn we have great people on this forum!!!
Just put a candle in the window, I will be around some day