I'm at the bottom of the bag of tricks. This end plate which carries the pinon drive gear is stuck on the end of the axle. The pinon gear bearings are gone. Tried a puller while tapping the axle, one of the bolts just pulled out of the hole. Used ample heat but didn't heat it cherry. The other side came out by turning the stuck end up and tapping the axle (with nut on). It didn't need to come off but I wanted to make sure they were supposed to come off that way. I'm at the point of coming up with crazy ideas like heating up around the sleeve that carries the pinon bearings and use a slide hammer on the pinion to remove the sleeve. Any ideas would be appreciated. Here's a link to the parts manual, maybe I'm missing something. Page 44 of the pdf. http://www.multiquip.com/multiquip/...DR9GH_rev_0_manual_DataId_18467_Version_1.pdf
Have you considered making a couple of legs for your puller and welding them to the end plate? You can just grind them off later.
First off, make sure there isn't a lip on the inside of the drum tube that's keeping the plate from coming out. Maybe spin the plate around a bit and clean the inside up with a fresh small grinder wheel all the way around. As Cmark suggests, wouldn't hurt anything to weld a couple pieces on the empty spaces of that plate to work off of. Another possibility, from the parts picture I would think you could remove bearing cover #5 and then with a proper drift and judicious use of a rather large tapping tool, 16 or 20 pound, the axle shaft should drive on out. Just an option in the brute force approach file. From the looks of the drive parts there, I would probably want to replace those four bearings anyway, being that far into it. :my2c Cheers
I like that idea. I'll give it a try first thing tomorrow.
lantraxo, Check out the link. Because of the bearing placement and shoulders on the axle, I don't think it's meant to be driven out. Check out the parts breakdown in the link. I did do this job 8 years ago on the front drum and don't if there's a trick to it. I'm thinking it should come off just like the other side.
What i see in the parts breakdown the axle and bearings come out the pinion side
Item 55: felt ring Item 6: oil seal Item 3: bearing Item 54: bearing Is item 3 bearing mounted in the end plate and that's what's stuck?
Hey Willie.... the way I look at that parts picture, the bearings are mounted in the gear that bolts to the drum. Both end plates are a tight fit on the axle shaft and have big nuts that hold them tight up against a shoulder? Of course it would help if I could find my eyeball cheaters.....
Agreed lantraxco, I'm still studying the drawing to get it in my head just what is doing what and where. Of course, it would help if our buddy Rob would (A) post these drawings himself (instead of me doing it for him) for us to discuss, and (B) quit chasing his wife around the house and respond to his thread.
I think I see what you're saying lantraxco, the shaft does not turn, it's fastened firm in the end plate and retained by nut 13. So...would that be a tapered shaft connection to end plate?
Axle end not tapered, yes the end of the axle is stuck in the bearing. The first pic is the other side- it came off w/o much trouble. I didn't know how to grab the pic from the pdf- thanks I can't help it if my wife finds me irresistible.
Scratch that, the axle end is stuck in the "cover". Still not tapered. And my wife is chasing me, as usual.
Well, one things fer sure. That there gear that makes the drum turn was sorely lacking in lube, lol. The parts page shows a grease fitting on the end of the pinion shaft, it's likely a shortage of lube there is why the pinion bearings failed. The other drum may have the same problem? Ya gotta cut Rob a break though, it is springtime and it's warm and sunny up yonder in Seattle!
Aye, understandable, but what's in it for here??? So it's a straight shaft connection that's stuck in the end plate. I can only repeat what others have said, heavier "pusher plate/bolt" to put lots of pressure on the shaft, lots of heat on end plate. Another idea, but don't know if it would work as that's a small area, but maybe pack the end of the shaft with dry ice and shrink it? :beatsme One think I can add, if you ever get it apart and proceed to re-assemble...apply Never Seize! :yup
lol Yeah it shows a fitting and there isn't one, but if I remember right, they use sealed bearings.
Not two words, but two letters (you convert them into words)...BS!
And No lantraxco, I ain't gonna cut Rob no slack, he knows that ain't gonna happen.
I didn't continue to heat as I was tightening the bolt- I'll do that. Also the bolt wasn't perfectly center on the axle end and the bolts on the end of the puller weren't exactly equidistant from the center bolt. I should be able to get things set closer when I weld it on. I'd like to hear that loud 'pop' tomorrow- the good kind of pop. What's in it for her? I don't know, she might be after my wallet.
Wait, what...equidistant? Equidistant??? Mechanics don't use high faluten college edjumacated words like that! :nono And...she's already got your wallet...I'm just trying to figure out why she's chasing you around the house. :beatsme
Is it possible that the outside of the drum has peened over the end cover and that might be holding it in place. Maybe a die grinder on the area where the two parts mate might reveal a crack line between the two parts.
If she is anything like mine she is after the hidden stash in my wallet :cussing
Well, it also says in that manual to remove those round covers opposite the pinion shaft and lube the chains. Ain't no chains inside that drum, LOL
It put up a good fight. Got it half way and the nut stripped. Cut and ground the old nut off and tried again. Moved really slowly. Even the 3/4 impact was having a hard time. One of the bearings is obsolete.
Which bearing? I ran all four bearings called out on those parts pages and they're plain vanilla? Of course what you have may not agree with the book, parts books being what they are....
Pinon gear shaft. Item 18, #440006307 if I remember
The description says 6307VV which is readily available, you can also use a 6307-2RS I believe. Any decent bearing house should carry them, Motion Industries lists them as a 6307VVC3 for instance.