I have a 580D with a VERY stuck swing cylinder pin. One fell out: New item by Daniel Hoffman photos.app.goo.gl The other is very stuck. New item by Daniel Hoffman photos.app.goo.gl The one that is stuck appears SO stuck that someone broke off the part of the pin with the notch below it trying to pry it out (I'm assuming that's what happened - I didn't do it although I can see why someone would try that). So now I don't have a complete circle to weld to. I've watched videos going over welding all thread and trying to extract that way, such as these: At this point I'm going to go to the biggest all thread I can find (as going to bigger all thread worked in one of the videos - I'm probably using 5/8 or less right now), but I'm just wondering if anyone has any other ideas. I've seen people rebuild these cylinders in place ( ), but that still requires removing the arm, which I can't do because I can't remove the pin. I guess theoretically it is possible to leave the arm mounted by the pint, and then back out the cylinder body, but even if it is possible, I can't do it because the front of the cylinder that screws in is also totally stuck and I can't get it loose on the machine despite investing in the best tools for the job I can find. My hope is that I can make that happen once I have the cylinders removed from the backhoe. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this? I've debated trying some serious heat - but on something this size I'm not sure how much that is going to work. I'm thinking something beyond a propane torch is necessary to heat something of this size. If I can't make any progress I'm debating getting some sort of cutting torch and cutting the pin in two places which will allow me to pivot the arm out of the way (I'll likely make the arm unusable in the process of cutting the pin in two places), and then hopefully I can work the bottom half of the pin out by lubing it from the top and working it from the top and bottom. Then hopefully get the top half out by lubing it and extracting it with all thread which will hopefully work by virtue of there being no friction from the bottom. My guess is that the "bottom" portion of the pin is the part that is really seized, as it would have taken on the most moisture by being totally exposed, whereas the top half wouldn't be exposed to that much rain and would receive less moisture by virtue of gravity.
The good news is the pin is still tight! not often you find that. Cutting the pin with a sawzall above and below the cylinder eye is a common way to remove pins like this. You want a good blade, but it's nothing to cut through with the right blade. Relatively easy. More stuck, bent pins sometimes need cutting out with a torch or oxygen lance through the center, you don't want to have to do that, and this one looks rusty, not bent/jammed. You might consider something similar by drilling most of the way through the bottom part, then welding up the hole, or heating and blowing out a tiny bit with a cutting torch. That should heat the remaining pin enough to deform the metal, then it will shrink when it cools and pull out. This could let you reuse the pin, but the pin is probably cheap. Another option would be welding a lever on the end of the pin to rotate the pin, then a ratchet strap to the extended boom to apply tension, then swing back and forth until it moves, keep adding penetrating oil and working till it moves easily. But cutting the pin is probably going to be easiest.
Interesting. I tried briefly with a sawzall and didn't really seem to be getting anywhere - maybe I needed a better / different blade (I believe I was using a new blade, but perhaps not the right type). I've now ordered some much bigger all thread which will give me more to weld to, which could allow me either to rotate it (to break it loose) or have the all thread stay in place better when I pull it out (which I was trying before, but the welds were breaking before the pin broke loose). These are some good ideas. I certainly don't mind sawzall-ing it and replacing the pin. At this point I just want those cylinders out of there. The rebuild will hopefully be a dream compared to this.
I saw a different video of someone using one of these . . that thing is crazy. While I would love to have it, I can't justify a $1k tool for this job. But if I have to hire someone I'll know what to ask if they have.
Have you tried getting a pipe wrench on it and turning it? There may be a grove warn in it hanging up on the ram bushing.
There's not enough space to get a pipe wrench in there to get a grip of it (either from the bottom, or from where the arm mounts). I believe I welded a nut on it and tried to break it loose that way. Welded nut wouldn't hold - broke the welds before it broke loose. (I'm not even a decent welder, so that may be part of the issue with that).
I posted that video because you might find a mobile welder with that equipment.
I doubt that the notched portion of the pin was broken off. That indicates is quite passable the wrong size pin is in there. IMHO. I would clean as much grease off of it and the surrounding area, then heat the rod eye with a rosebud torch. If the pin won't come down, force it up as far as it will go and cut it off with a grinder with a cut-off blade in it. Do that as many times as it takes to remove the pin. Another option is to cut both sides of the pin with a big grinder. Keep the blade above the swing casting. That will destroy the rod eye but it can be replaced. I have had rod eyes replaced by a cylinder repair shop and the charge was quite reasonable. They make them in their shop.
burn the pin out
I would do that as a last resort. Because of the risk of setting the machine on fire. I have burnt a lot of pins out and it is hell on torch tips. The backblow is nasty when burning into a blind hole. If a hole could be drilled all the way through it then it would be fairly easy to torch it out. Some times pins have soft centers.
The pin will be hard on the surface but still easy to cut with a good sawzall blade. If the bushings are tight against each other, that might have dulled the corners of the teeth? the bushing will be harder than the pin, use something at the other edge of the joint to create a gap to fit the blade.
A diamond sawzall blade might be an option. They are awful slow tho.
In anyone wants an update on this, I finally got the pin most of the way out this weekend. I ended up using a sawzall to cut below the swing cylinder arm. That took FOREVER - even with the best blade I could find (and using multiple of them - expensive). I do not recommend the sawzall route (I was using a Milwaukee and the best blades I could find - NOT CHEAP). I was cutting below the arm because I thought that gave me more space, and I figured it was the bottom portion of the pin that was stuck, and freeing up some space would allow me to bang it loose. Turns out that was wrong, and when I cut it the bottom portion fell right out . . . and it was actually stuck at the top . . . which means I needed to do a cut above the swing arm too to get it out. I used cutting wheels on a grinder to cut the top (weeks after I did the first cut) - and that was probably - no exaggeration - 50x faster. I used a 7" cutting wheel to get started and that got most of the way through. Then I switched to a 9" cutting wheel. This was hella dangerous (your fingers on the switch of a normal size grinder are right there) and I destroyed one cutting wheel and had the grinder get lose on me once . . . but I used a second wheel and got through it without further incident. I used the 7" cutting wheel to create more space for the 9" wheel to move. If you have to do this I recommend the 7" to 9" procedure with heavy gloves, safety glasses, heavy sleeves, etc. Now most of the pin is out, but the top portion is still stuck. I think I'm going to try and square that off so I can get a wrench on it to twist it, combined with heat, lube, etc. Hopefully I'll be able to get that last portion out. New item by D. H. photos.app.goo.gl
Glad you got it out. Using a larger than recommended cutting disc on an angle grinder without a guard is very dangerous. I'm sure there have been some unintended finger amputations. You don't realize you've cut yourself until it's too late. I've been lucky and only cut the glove I was wearing. It just knicked my skin but still stung and had a little bleeding. Kind of like minor road rash. Still scary. It was about the only way I could cut what needed cutting. It made me very aware how dangerous it was.
Yeah, this procedure was super dangerous using the 9" cutting wheel and I don't think I will ever use those 9" cutting wheels again on that angle grinder as it was definitely too close. I assume you could buy a larger grinder (I may even have one, but didn't have it with me where I was doing the job). The 7" wheels weren't so bad assuming you had heavy gloves on. The 7" wasn't right next to my finger and with gloves there was a margin for error.
Different grinders have different switch locations and hand grip. As much as I love my Metabo angle grinder, you can’t use cut off wheels with it. The switch is so far forward your hand is inside the cutting disc. My Dewalt is fine with 7” cutting discs.
I was using a Dewalt and it was fine with the 7" disc . . . the 9" was sketchy with a capital S.
Not sure I would try a 9” disk unless I absolutely had to. Even an 8” grinding wheel on a 4 1/2” grinder feels like wrestling with a bag of cats.
Nice work ! An extension on the angle grinder shaft could get the disk away from the trigger and perhaps a little safer.
Never seen an extension and would be worried about balance, if they did. The bottom bar and one of the bolts on the bottom of my swing tower are missing on the tapered pins. I’m fairly certain I did that with a rock or 3. Hopefully, it won’t be a pain when I redo all the bushings and pins on the swing tower and stabilizers this summer.