A buddy has an Case 1840 with REALLY bad pins everywhere. they are almost all 1" pins. I own a 1-3/16" "bridge reamer" (which if youare not familiar is a taper nose to straight section reverse spiral flute reamer. it's purpose for making smaller holes that don't line up well become larger holes that do. -on large steel work like bridges.) I just checked it out, and this will I think just adequately clean up all the bores. I would do this right through the rod ends also with everything in place to keep alignment. Question is, #1 how bad is my idea of just reaming all the holes to 1-3/16" and making pins. (most of his existing pins are currently just large bolts!) #2 if this is not the way to go, how much work / $ is repairing with normal methods? what would you say an 1840 with such trashed pins to be worth? they are so worn out it has allowed the tilt cylinders to wear the rod against the lift frame. it also drifts down the bucket rack very very fast. but that is another question. Thanks, Dan
Have you, or your friend, located hardened pins that would work if you were to go ahead with this, or would you just get some machined up? Just curious how long it actually takes to ream a couple holes like on a skid steer arm?
well I am the machinist. and I have located several suppliers of 1-3/16" pre finished bar in turned ground and polished 1144 shaft for about $15 / foot. but I dont know actual hardness. would still need heat treat I think.. which is odd for TGP shaft. the reamer does it's job in about a minute a hole if you do your part to line it up reasonably. I don't know if it does it well enough for the application.
I'm not a machinist, so my comments are only worth a grain of salt in this respect, but I've never had good (clean) results using a reamer, even tapered, in egg shaped holes. I don't know if Case offers the same, but with Bobcat machines you can purchase the pin boss weldments for loader arms. Cut off bad pin boss, fit a new one, weld it in place. Just a thought.
yeah, I'm just guessing also. I have never reamed a loader either. and I know what your saying but reamers are a standard way to make very good holes, just short of jig grinding. and a spiral flute reamer does not chatter in a hole like a straight flute can if it's not all perfect. and a bridge reamer even spirals backward so it is not self feeding so it will not over bite. so I held out hope. I had hopes to ream and avoid a lot of some weld work. It seems likely moot since my buddy decided to just try and sell it as is.
I had a similiar situation on a machine this winter. My concern with boring was how little material would be left to hold the oversize bushings. In reading this so far, I am not so sure you are going to bush this when done (?) I welded new solid steel arm ends with bushings on, made at a machine shop for a very reasonable price. This did require a bit of jigging things in place, but the end result was worth it. Would have been nice if the machine came from the factory with bushings in the first place, but that is a whole different story.
Well, all in all, it sounds like it could be a viable solution as long as not too much material was removed. If it were only one or two pins then welding on new bushings would be the way to go, but if they are nearly all worn out and one has access to a reamer. I'd give it a try ...at least on one or two and if it were good, continue on with the rest. Let us know if you try it out on another machine in the future.
Comes down to the sitaution at hand I think more than anything. Sounds like your buddy isn't into any of this type of repair work. You sound like you see the machining side of things as easiest for you to tackle while I as well as others on here feel were more comfortable with a torch and a welder and avoid the pin hassle. However the machining is what you are good at and comfortable with, give it a try. If it doesnt work it doesnt work, then you can cut them out and weld in new ones. I dk what they all cost, but the set I am actually working on as we speak are $45 each. They are the weldments for the attachment plate pins that go into the boom. they have a taper in them and everything, so I feel $45 really isnt that much money. It takes time though, just gotta go slow and line it all up right. Good luck.
Never tried a bridge reamer, sounds like a good option. Will it take a 1-3/16" reamer or will a smaller one work? I started using old hydraulic shafting for pins on my dozer, skid steer and some customer projects, has been working well. 1-1/8 " (scrap) shaft would be easy to find at a hydraulic shop. If you ream the holes, I think I would tack the parts together first. You could get a first class job if you take your time and do it right. If you weld bushings on you might still need reaming anyway. I say go for it, good luck.
question for the welders,what rod would be suitable if stick welding new ends on?
Low hydrogen rods. A industry favourite in Australia is the WIA TC16
thanks mate,i think I got some in the shed ........somewhere lol