The good book says to use a shim under the preaload bearing equal to the feeler-gauge fit. It looks like telescoping part 2 of the tool might be the thickness of the bearing and that the 3 legs of part one rest on the edge 3 so as to measure the shim that might be needed to raise the bearing race to be flush with the casing mating edge 3. The problem is that I don't have that tool and all of the above is just a guess because the 'the good book' isn't all that verbose and is even cheaper by way of any appropriate diagrams showing the setup. Ayone have this tool? How thick is part 2? Are the bottoms of three fingers on the tool legs flush with the bottom of the center round defining the gap to part 2? I have to do the preload because the left ring-gear is being replaced (as well as the planetary ass'y and short shaft). The shim removed is 1.55mm i.e. probably the nominal 1.6mm that is #9R2431
I'm back on this horror page with an addendum . During stripping the shim was removed when the differential gear assembly and bearing were separated from the 'inner brake housing' race. No idea any more exactly where it had been but as usual I had placed it exactly 'in removal sequence' (between the differential and the inner brake housing). I placed the shim on top of the race for this picture (note heavy punch marks 180 apart for unknown reason) BUT I don't see how it could have been there during stripping! Not aware at the time that the correct shim had to go UNDER the race for a new bearing, I then had the bearing race and the bearing on the differential replaced with new ones. I still have no idea of exactly what I'm supposed to measure preload clearance between, and now it looks like I will also have to get a new race and install it AFTER the calibration. I'd like to get this done before going in for what looks like open-heart surgery in a couple months after which I won't be able to do anything of the sort for a minimum of 6 months.
Do you have a testing and adjusting section it might help you
No, all there is is a specs section that just repeats the thousandths and the shim thicknesses. A section diagram there shows the situation (as far as I can figure it): The critical distance A-E is the one between the differential bearing cup seats. D-E (being entirely in the center housing) is fixed, and so is B-E because no gasket is used between the housing mating surfaces. The tool attempts to reduce the A-B measurement to a shim thickness. Mating surface A is what the shim moves closer instead of having to machine it farther). Its designer forgot to include the zero-play A-B dimension "C" from the engineering drawing which any mechanic worth his salt would be able to transpose. Without this number or the tool I can't do it. I could measure this C and add a shim to reduce it to the spec value.
Is the attached of any use.?
More info in regard to the rear differential.
Thanks a meg for trying, I have all that myself. The shim is #51 but their way to illustrate things leaves a LOT to be desired as well. They show only the right axle exploded view but that #51 goes only with the left axle build. Jeeeeez! The shim that 'fell onto the bench' during stripping as it were is the 1.6mm one. Looks like I may have to assemble it with no shim and try to wiggle for an end play reading to become a shim thickness. Not sure if I can do that though.
I managed to pry this out of google's Gemini AI (glorified search engine). Don't yet know how I'm going to execute it but it's a start.
I keep thinking b model instructions were better same except for brakes
I just looked at the D&A instructions for the differential on a B model and they are exactly the same as the ones I posted above. The only thing that changed was the Form Number.
I just finished a marathon session with AI (a rabbit hole) and have enough verbal diarhea pasted out to digest tonight.
Post AI recap... The 1.6mm shim that 'fell out' was almost certainly OEM but the previous intervention failed to re -install it after a bearing & cup change. So the machine had been operating since 2014 in a rather loose configuration. Not sure if this was part of the cause of the left axle outboard bearing failure, probably unrelated. There's no way to figure out any more how or where exactly the shim had been 'installed' then. During stripping it came out between the inboard brake housing and the brake disks on that side. Now with another set of new bearings and cups I will pull the new cup and reinstall it with the 1.6mm shim underneath, then bolt the brake housings into the right axle housing (it is the right inboard brake housing that hosts the differential small bearing cup). The differential large bearing cup is in the center housing in the middle of a rib near the right axle-housing. After assembling for a dry run I will hand-test the pinion fitting for free but not loose rotation. Only if too tight then repeat using a 1.45mm shim which is the next smaller one and should be looser.
Finally got the preload done. It's a freakin disgrace that in this world of money-changers and money-lenders it was impossible to find one simple measurement that would allow a home user strictly on a DIY diet to set up the proper preload without that 'PROPRIETARTY tool'. After totally cleaning all mating surfaces I placed 4 tiny (about 3/8") lengths of soft solder on the ledge of the cup seat normally hosting the shim in question. Then I pressed the bearing cup in just enough to touch the solder bits. Next I lowered the differential assembly with the small bearing into the cup and then the entire center housing to be bolted down, planning that the boltdown would compress the solder (a Deutz procedure for actual piston clearance). On disassembly I measured the solder bits which which ended up measuring 1.59mm EACH, EXACTLY, 1/100 of a mm less than the probably OEM shim found in the bits bin. I sanded off another 1/100th for preload and called it a day. As I then got going with assembling the brakes on the right half I became familiar with the way of the design, that there were 2 sets of 3 disks on either side of the expansion mechanisms. The pieces stacked in the order of stripping matched the order in the drawings and were all replaced, on the right side being done. Then just to check the left axle stack of removed parts while at it I noticed that every one of the 3-set inboard of the adjusting mechanism was completely missing and the rest were severely chewed up. All 6 will be replaced with new but this was the 2nd colossal fubar found in addition to the preload shim not having been reinstalled at all during the previous intervention (by a 'pro' mechanic).
IMHO all that the recommended tooling does in most cases is to make the job easier. For anyone prepared to think outside the box there is always at least one other way to do it, often multiple ways, even if it means making your own tooling. My 2c. YMMV.
Easier said than done, anyway that part is now history. For those that might come looking in the future, here's a schematic I made for myself while trying to wrap my brain around the design:
Final assembly went with surprising ease (AND lots of caution). The huge hose clamps at the ourboard seals are my way of fixing a seal leak in spite of my best efforts!!!! I put split hose rubber around them and squeezed the living daylight out of, them both. Now they're good for 60 psi.