I need to rebuild one of the stabilizer cylinders on my NH575E. Any tips or warnings to pass along? I am planning to try to leave the housing on the tractor and just remove the foot end and pull the rod out. I figure I can support the housing with a jack stand. Couldn't find a peg wrench but it looks like I can get on the gland nut with a large pipe wrench. Bought a kit from the dealer and they sold me the wrong oil. Label on the generic brand oil they sold me said not recommended for tractors newer than 1996 and had a New Holland compatible spec for 134B and C but not D. Bought some Traveler brand oil from Tractor Supply that says its compatible with the 134D spec.
Use a block of wood to support the cylinder, and wrap the rod with sheet aluminum so you don't mess up the chrome when the wrench slips. If you don't want to mess up the gland with the pipe wrench, build yourself a wrench to fit the gland using a piece of pipe big enough to slip over the gland welded to a big washer cut out of plate to hold the pins. When you get the rod out, put it back in the stabilizer and support with another block of wood to break loose the piston nut/bolt.
Thanks Delmer! I was thinking about building a peg wrench. If the pipe wrench doesn't feel like it will work without slipping I will. I have a nice 3 foot pipe wrench.
Hi I had to repack a couple cyl;s on a John deere 310a ,one was a stabilizer and I was able to use a large pipe wrench with a 3 foot pipe over it and it worked fine, only thing though I would think that from the factory that nut must have 200+ foot pounds to it. Thing to be careful with would be the chrome rod mine had a couple small dents in it which would tear up any new packings, so I made sure they were good and smooth.That was 6 or 7 years ago and not a drop of oil leaking. Of course the correct way would be to send it out and have it ground and chromed again. Make sure when you take it apart that the packing kit go's in the same way. I have to say that it is nice to fix the leaks which really keeps the machine looking a lot cleaner and maintained no matter how old it might be good luck with it Jeff
This is turning out to be way more fun than I bargained for. In hindsight I should have held out and bought a JD since we have no local NH dealers. Pipe wrench wouldn't budge the gland nut on this and was digging into the metal some so I backed out of that idea. I built a pretty nice 3 peg wrench with a 4' handle and that wouldn't loosen it either without heat. Heated it up with the rose bud and tugged and pulled until I finally got my son in law to lean on it while I whacked the handle with a 5 lb sledge and it finally broke loose. Gland was tight all the way out then the piston didn't want to come out of the bore. After twisting and tugging for a while we chained the foot eye to my little JD855 and gave it short tugs while my son in law held on to it to keep it from dropping. Got the piston out and the dang kit was wrong. They sold me the wrong oil while I was up so I guess it's another day off work and 4 hour trip to try and return parts and hopefully get the right stuff.
Don't you just hate it when that happens, wrong oil AND parts. Sheeeeesh
I try to stay away from the dealers and go on line and buy from one of the tractor supply guys and there are a few of them to chose from.I would say half the cost or more saved.It is nice to see the new equipment in the yard but that's it. I see that you are stuck with the wrong kit and have to drive there to return it.I have done two rebuilds with no problem buying the kits on line plus no 6.25 sales tax........ I would call up that dealer and have them issue a call tag [UPS] and send the correct kit. Good luck Jeff Just a side note I went into Ebay and did a search for New holland 575e and that kit came up just over 20 bucks with 6 dollars shipping, Just like my John Deere you have to watch for your serial numbers. Jeff
I will second the on line parts. Only buy from a dealer when all else fails. Heating the gland is SOP for older equip. Also heating the piston nut/bolt to break the Loctite that was commonly used. Have Fun! Tom
In the parts guys defense the kit number he sold me is the only stabilizer kit listed online for my tractor. It makes no sense since there are several variables for the cylinder and gland nut. Found the link on ebay you mentioned and it shows the same part number I have.
Here's the peening thread, especially post #2 and #7 for the picture. An alternative or addition to heat for removing the gland. HeavyEquipmentForums
After closer inspection I've decided to try and use the kit I have. I stopped by a local hydraulic repair shop today and the guy there says it's very common to get a kit from New Holland with a few pieces not right. The important seals in this kit should work. The piece they refer to as a wear ring is twice as big but I think it will be okay to reuse the old one. The outer seal is .050" to large to press into the gland nut so I am going to chuck the nut up in the lathe and turn that bore out a little.
Yes for some of those cylinders they sell "updated" parts such as the head and piston that are the only way that the "factory" kit will fit without machine work
Hi If It was me I would get another kit so I don't have to change my parts to make that kit work, what if a mistake is made on your part now you have to buy a new part, If it's new I bet it's 100 bucks or more?? I would think that dealer should make it right for you. I can see if it was bought on line coming from China then you are one your own. But that just my opinion. Jeff
I use oring repair/splice kit sure is nice to have around google to review
This is a done deal as far as modifying the gland nut. I think it turned out okay. Can't really blame the dealer on this kit problem. New Holland only lists one kit. When you mouse over the gland nut on their parts web site it reads the gland nut is superseded to 82862729 which shows is obsolete and was replaced by the following combination of products: 84197018, 87414507, 84209920 They should have known better on the oil but by the time I take a day off work and drive up there and back to return it I would be way further in the hole than I am eating the oil. Thank goodness I only bought 2 cans of it. I will put it on CL for $25 a can and see if I can get some money back that way. Decided to go ahead and replace all the oil I can so I drained the tank. Bought 2 cans from TS and going to pick up 4 more on the way home. Lessons learned and will wait to get parts off the net from here out.
So my stabilizer rebuild was a success but only because I had access to a lathe to modify the gland nut. Here are my thoughts on why the factory kit differed from what I had and this is pure speculation on my part. They list a superseded gland nut which they say requires a new nut, piston, and kit. Part numbers 84197018, 87414507, 84209920. The gland nut was also previously superseded by another part number, 82862729. I am guessing my tractor may have already had one of the superseded nuts installed. One of the holes was egged so I know it had been apart before. If you set out to rebuild one of these and yours looks like a virgin it is probably safe to order the 85802571 kit. Otherwise you may want to at least order the superseded gland nut and kit. My piston seal was the same that was in the kit I bought so it was either original or the superseded piston uses the same seal. Still guessing here. I guess they sell universal gland nut wrenches but if you want to build one get a 5" square piece of 3/8" thick steel. Cut a 2-1/2" hole in the lower half then cut it out to make it a half moon to clear the rod. Take a piece of thin cardboard from a filter box or something and cut out the half moon shape to clear the rod. Hold it steady over the gland nut and hammer out the holes with a ball peen to use as a template. Find some bolts that will fit in the holes. My holes were .480" or about 7/16". I used 3/8" socket head cap screws and turned the heads down in the lathe to fit snug in the holes. Mark and drill your holes in the plate then weld a handle on. I used a 4 foot long piece of 7/8" hex rod. Notch the end of the rod so it fits on the plate and gorilla weld it. ( I call myself a gorilla welder cuz theys strong and ugly) I made a second two pin wrench out of aluminum to do most of the unscrewing and screwing with. The nut had too much drag to screw in and out by hand. I wrapped the exposed part of my rod with cardboard and tapped it to prevent damage. We ended up with two people and a pipe on the 4 foot handle of my home made tool. Still had to heat the housing with a torch and whack the handle with a sledge hammer to get it to break loose. Pulling the rod and piston out required chaining it to my little JD855 and pulling while the other person held the rod to keep it from falling. I saw a video on you tube where a guy took the whole cylinder off and chained one end to a tree and tied the other to his jeep to pull it out. Going back in we were able to tap it with a socket and hammer. When we put it back together with the big end connected to the tractor I supported the cylinder on a jack stand so it was near level and tied it to the stabilizer arm with a ratchet strap. Here's a pic of my wrenches.
Very nice wrenches. You can usually get all four pins if you really need to. And a ratchet strap around the other end of the cylinder keeps the pins from slipping out.
That's a great tip on using a ratchet strap to hold the wrench on. Will use that idea on the next one if I need to do one. Not sure how to get 4 pins unless you have a hinged or bolt together attachment but 3 seemed to work fine.
Just a thought, the hydraulics shop didn't have a bearing (wear ring) and rod wiper for it? I get all my seals and etc. from a hydraulics shop, much cheaper than from the dealer, and you know what you have right away. That would have saved you having to cut the gland and you could have had all new parts.
Nope, he said he would have to order the same kit number I had. He did take my old stuff in the back and looked for 15-20 minutes before giving up.