Just trying to save 3 grand on new trunions. Welded trunion one one side twice, only lasted about a month each time. Hope this will last a little longer. Pete
after you weld are you heating everything back up and allowing it to evenly cool? It will make your welds a lot less brittle and hopefully be able to last a lot longer
It looks like it might work, I'm guessing the cups are worn out inside?
Oh yeah,just about flat. Tried to build them back up but didn't last long. If I can 3 more months I'll be happy. Pete
Another "low buck" approach is to take the trunnion cap off, and trim a little material off of the mating surfaces. This lets it squeeze the ball a little tighter. Just don't get it too tight, or it will gall up and break. If you trim too much, put some shims back in till it wears more. Your fix should work a while. "Doing what you can with what you have"
I'm sure they did, I've used these guys before and they do great work.
Trunnion re-building. Hi, Cat287B. I once rebuilt the push trunnions on a 'Kummagutsa' D155A dozer with medium-hardness hardfacing electrodes. It took a little while and they welded better vertical down than they did vertical up but the job lasted for at least 3 months which was how long I stayed with that contractor after I had done it. I used the trunnion caps as guides 'cos they were less worn than the cups on the push arms - and a whole lot easier to handle too. I did the whole rebuild with the hardfacing rods and finished off with just a light grind to remove the sharpest edges, not that there were many edges welding vertical down. While welding, I only used enough amps to keep the electrodes running smoothly, not big mobs of amps and heat. And sorry but I can't remember what electrodes I used. That was about 1979 - were you born then? Hope this helps.
Thanks Deas, That sounds like what we did on the first 2 trys. I'm sure it would have worked but I've also got a lot of wear in other places too. About 8-10" of slop in the blade. It'll take about 17 grand to get everything back to new on the blade alone. I was in Uncle Sam's canoe club in 1979 working on haze grey heavy equipment Pete
Back when I was a Redneck we would buy the ball and a pair of caps, cut the bad part off the dozer arm plug, bevel and weld the caps on the dozer end. usually the old caps were ok as the wear is on the dozer socket. That keeps you from buying that expensive arm casting. Just sayin, that was back when I was a Redneck
Why did you quit being a Redneck?
Stopping problems. Hi, Cat287B. I noticed in your photos that the push arms, etc., have worn in the usual Cat fashion, tilting the push arm top outwards. I have recently been thinking of a modification to prevent this. I envisage welding arms to the inside of the push arms ahead of the sway braces, just behind the blade pivots. These arms would extend in toward the sway brace mountings on the back of the blade and have a wear plate at the end facing up. There would also be brackets welded to the back of the blade above where these arms end just outboard of the sway brace mountings. These brackets would have wear plates facing down, in contact with the wear plates facing upward on the ends of the above mentioned arms. What this would hopefully do is stop the outward-leaning weight of the push arms from wearing all the joints in the manner shown in your photos which allows the top of the push arm to lean outwards. It's times like these I wish I was sketch artist as even a sketch is worth a thousand words. This might be a bit harder to do with a tag link sway brace but I think it could still be done. So how was your time in the 'canoe club'? Do you have fond memories?
Deas, sounds like a good idea. I'll have to take some pics tomorrow. Dozer is in the shop for a new pivot shaft seal. Blade is sitting in the compound. They tell me it'll be back by lunch time. As far as time in USN I think every young man ought to serve. If nothing else just to see how every one else lives. You don't know how good you have it here till you see the other countries. My Grandson just graduated boot camp and is in school for unmanned aerial vehicles. Real proud of that fella. Pete
Used to take out alot of orchards here, you would tilt the dozer to the left and dig them out with the end bit. This would wear the left side more as that's where the pressure was. Sometimes we would fix just the left side. Don't do that work anymore as everything is ground up and the trees are usually taken out with a track hoe.
Worn on right side a little
More on the right
That blade is practically self levelling with all that slop.
So is the wet material
Is that a D8? I notice the pin blocks where the pusharms meet the blade are installed backwards. The pin thru the arm should be ahead of the pin down thru the blade. Unless you have it installed that way so it will stay above the slop.
Its a D7H but it thinks it's an 8. I don't know about the pins, I'll need Deas to draw me a picture.
Scottsune, Thank you so much.I don't know why I didn't think of that, I'm sure it'll solve my problem. Once again thanks for taking your time and sharing you vast experiance to help me. Pete
hi, thanks, Pete! if you or your friend/buyer need tyres, we maybe a good supplier to you. any inquiry of tyres is welcome to us! thanks once again! Scott Sune
Hey Scott, Thanks for the quick response, I'm sure you and your company will do well here since you are so good at attention to detail. Which one of your products would you suguest for my particular problem? Pete
'Slightly' second-hand. Hi, Cat 287B. At a rough guess, I'd say that blade in it's entirety would just about qualify as being 'slightly' second-hand. I don't wish to be the bearer of bad tidings but I suspect that restoring that blade to anything even vaguely resembling 'new' is going to be a 'MAJOR'. It might be good for raking timber though, it might follow the ground fairly well. Ben46A is right about those connecting blocks between the push arms and the bottom of the blade. They ARE wrong way around. When they are the other way around - and when the whole blade is in a somewhat less worn condition - the blocks are supported by the yokes as well as the pins which helps to reduce wear. On top that, the whole blade is a little further ahead of the tractor which would not help with controllability - although it would marginally improve visibility. If you want, I'll make time to do a sketch of the modification I mentioned and post it for you. Just say the word.
Uh-Oh!!!!!!! Hi,Cat 287B. It would appear that Mr Scottsune has gone and got himself banned. Not content with posting his information on one thread here, he has posted it on just about every thread on the first two pages of the 'Dozers' section. IF you desperately want to contact him, his e-mail address may still be active - if you're lucky. Right-click on his name and select 'e-mail'.
That would be 34 other threads across the board:cool2 ointhead:nono
I don't see why your repairs shouldn't work, you want to talk about redneck repairs? Bearing went in the transmission of my K. there I was in the shop for 3 days with emry cloth, putty knife and JB weld fixing up my shift pistons, works like a charm still.
After looking at it I figured it out, both you and ben are right. I've replaced 3 of those pins already and with all the slop it's chore to get it lined up to put in the new pin. Owner is looking for a replacment dlade now. Pete
Lord help me if I ever get that desperate.
My cat's from mid -50's and -60's, doesn't even have that much wear in the linkages how many hours do you have on that machine? you have probably been pushing something that wears quite heavily! or do you backdrag the blade a lot? maybe it would be a good idea to replace the whole blade with pusharms and trunions, that could save the world from a lot of bad words
just send over your bank card number to pay in advance, and some chinese family will live happily ever after! of course you wun't be so happy when the account is totally empty, without a trace were the money has gone... chinese are mean people, first they melt down our old and nice dozers, then they disgrace the scrap metal by making some 3 class **** tools out of it AND NOW THE b*****d are insulting us by trying to sell rubber tyres on the dozer forums.
Now it makes sense, I got 57 emails last night all with tire dimensions and sizes in the replies.