My D6R transmission gets hot after a couple hours work. Serial number 8LN00448. I just changed the transmission temp sender to confirm the gauge is accurate. Shooting an IR temp gun at the top of the transmission cooler when it's just touching the red arc shows about 195 at the front and about 205 at the rear. It takes a long time for it to come down in neutral, not seconds like it should. The engine coolant is running normal temperatures. I'm guessing that I need to drain the coolant and transmission oil? Drop belly pans? Are there side shields that can come off to get better access? Do I just remove the bolts holding the core or do the end castings come out with it? Thanks for any help.
Post a Serial number and I'll look what the service manual says for R&I.
Serial number 8LN00448
There are no special instructions which means it should be pretty straightforward. See attachments.
Ok. Thank you very much.
It's awkward and heavy to handle but it was pretty straight forward. Drain coolant and transmission oil. Drop engine and transmission belly pans. Remove oil lines. Remove all mounting bolts and that small bracket at the back. Put a strap on from the top. Crack the gasket loose with a bar and lower it out the bottom at the rear. It was plugged with greasy looking stuff in the end cap not coolant scale. Coolant looks fine but must have seen some oil at some point in its 12k hour life. Engine degreaser and a pressure washer has it looking good. Hope reinstallation goes as well tomorrow.
All that was in the end cap. Coolant looks great.
On the basis of those photos I think you may want to look at all the oil lines to/from the cooler if that was what you found in it. Did this tractor have a transmission failure in the past.? What type & viscosity of oil are you running in it.?
It had the magnetic screen in the hell hole installed backwards and that let something come through and stick the relief valve in the transmission causing 1st to slip. That's cleaned and transmission resealed with a new clutches and a couple new modulating valves last summer. After calibration it's been running like a beast since but still got hot after a couple hours. I know the tubes should only have coolant running through them. Where the greasy/coolant slippery gunk comes from I don't know. It looks and feels old if that makes sense. Seems like it's been there for a while.
I changed the oil to Petro Can TO4 or whatever is the proper stuff last year after the transmission was reinstalled.
It’s usually prudent to pull both the pump and cooler every time the transmission is removed. You can see why….. It might also pay to take a look at the cooling system as well if that is what you found in the “water” side of the cooler. The oil you are using now in the transmission will work just fine.