I have someone who offered to help me remove the master cylinder from my 86 730A Champion. It looks fairly straight forward but I was wondering about the hose that connects on the master cylinder that uses Dot 3 brake fluid. Should capping it or wrapping it up (if I don't have the correct cap) be sufficient? Reading that brake fluid attracts moisture from the air and you don't want to contaminate the brake fluid I'm wondering if any special precautions should be taken. Would it be best to try and suction all the old brake fluid out of the line? I'm guessing the master cylinder and booster that uses hyd. fluid will be off for a week or more to get rebuilt.
You'll flush the old brake fluid out when you bleed the air anyway, it's not a big deal to absorb some moisture. Moisture gets critical when you're racing and the fluid boils from the water and you lose brakes, not a problem here, you just want new fluid so it doesn't rust from the inside.
I think when we did the slave on our old 730, it had to be bled from the slave through the bleeder. Pumping it like car brakes didn't get rid of the air. pumped fluid through the bleeder until the air stopped in the master.
I managed to get the master and booster out. Not a lot of room. The hose from the master to the slave cylinder was a bit of a pain. It looks like a different fitting from the manual. It's a male thread with a 7/16" hex for a wrench that goes into a reducer on the master. Had to use a tight vice grip to loosen it. I looked at the slave cylinder and it doesn't appear to be leaking which is great. What I did notice is that it doesn't have a common bleeder plug. It just has a hex head plug where the bleeder would normally be. Should I change it for a bleeder or can it still be used to bleed air? Also wondering if the 7/16" wrench fitting is common on brake hoses so I could pick up a new one without having to buy an expensive Champion part?
Was thinking, the cab on my 730 was hinged on the front. I remember they made that discovery when they changed the cab mount rubbers
Looking at the service manual online it tells you the basics of how to remove it but doesn't mention anything to make it easier like a Cat manual might. I think I'll have remove the fresh air hose for the cab when it put it back in. It would be nice if there was an access door in the cab that could be flipped up for filling the master and would also make it easier to remove and install it.
Did you ever try your articulation?
I tried the switch but it didn't do anything. There are 2 wires disconnected on the left side of the engine that I'm wondering if they go to the articulation valve. I think I read it's down by the final drive on that side. Might have slightly more room if articulated to the right. Once I get the clutch working properly I'll look into fixing some other less critical things like the articulation and the tach. I was wondering why the machine goes into gear without grinding when the clutch isn't working? I thought maybe because there are clutch packs for forward and reverse? I hope I didn't cause any damage running it for a couple hours without a clutch.