I'm trying to remove a link from each of my track chains on this old excavator so I might get a couple hundred more hours life out of them. I could use some advice/tips on how to go about doing this. The master pins come out easy, but the way this thing is made, if I removed every single pin from the rails it would not be disassembled because the bushings (with the exception of the one at the master pin) are long and extend into both links. Is there a trick or special tool to get them separated? I haven't figured out how to get the pins out either, They are only about 7/8" diameter by 5 1/2" long. If I were 20 years younger I'd just use the torch and hammer and punch. I was wondering...do you leave the pad on to prevent the links from spreading when you beat them out?This method doesn't work for an old man working alone. I was thinking of renting a kingpin press if I can find one. I'm aware of the stretched chain issue. There isn't much bushing to sprocket wear, the idlers and rollers should go a few hundred more hours easy, I just need to be able to adjust the tracks so they won't fall off any more.
I'm thinking of cutting the extra links off, then grinding the long bushings so they will go back together at the master pin using the washers. Is that how you guys do it?
Have you taken the master link pin out?
Yes. Came out easy.
It had a short bushing and 2 spacers
Yes, at the master pin, the others are all long bushings.
Ok stay with me one end of link is small then the other correct ?
Correct.
If it is take next 2 track pads off to expose next bushing.burn through both pin and bushing in 2 places ( next to the inside links .do you understand what I mean).
OK. I already removed the pads on the small end of master pin. When I remove the next pad and expose the next bushing what do I do?
if done you should be able to tap link half’s toward center and off of what’s left of pin,then remove what’s of pin (burn out ,heat and beat) . You may want to put track pad back on so you don’t spread link when working on pin
Did you get to the burning pin& bushing.
No, I haven't got that far. Do I just cut thru both the pin and bushing?
So I'm going to salvage the short bushing?
Just. To make sure we are on the same boat we are working on the link that the master pin went into? Reread post #9
Yes you are reusing short bushing spacers and pin.
The link that the master pin went into the small end of, that is the link that has the short bushing. Now I think I understand you. The hard part is going to be removing the short bushing from the throw away link and pressing it into the next.
You don’t want to do anything to the master link!
So I burn the links where they go around the short bushing so I don't have to press out, then use bolt and nut to press it into other links?
No no no we are working on the link that the master link went into.we are not doing anything to the master link.
Have work going to bed You should check you tube they can show you better then I can explain. Good nite
I can foresee this going south ! LOL
I'm confused. The pin goes thru two links, connecting them. I assume the one you call a master link is the one that goes to the outside of the smaller part of the next link (which has the short bushing in it). It's cast differently from the other links. The master link does not have a short bushing in it, but is pinned to the one with a short bushing. I hope your reading comprehension is better than mine, LOL. My torch will probably be out of oxygen before I finish this so no hurry.
You are correct. Do not mess with that link. Cut the one off that went inside of the master link.
Good day The attached may help you. Kind regards Uffex
You do not do anything to the link with short bushing.absolutely no cutting. If you want too start over tonight post photos of track close and 10 feet away. Will look back about 6:30 pm
Thanks. That describes what I was thinking in post #2....that is to cut off the link that has the short bushing (they call it master bushing) and then grind down the protrusions of the long bushing of the next link so it will fit in the master link with the spacers/washers. It seems like the easiest way. Bls is suggesting salvaging the short bushing, which is a bit more work and a more original precision fit, but I don't understand the reason for saving the link which contains the short bushing. Is it safe to assume that the ID of the master (short) bushing is the same as the ID of the rest of the bushings? If not I will have to use Bls method and save the short bushing so the master pin will fit. I know the master pin is a looser fit than the rest of the pins, but I'm assuming the loose fit is because the pin is a few thousandths smaller ID than the other pins.
Good day Check The method described is what we have used for a good number of years, normally the master bush is the same apart from the length. The master link have spacers which are used to retain the master connection unless you have something out of normal. There are a number of experienced CAT guys contributing on this forum Im sure some have been involved with the process and will comment if they see you making a mistake. Kind regards Uffex
Should have added the following tip.
Update. I got er done using the method in the track link removal PDF. It was fairly easy. I used the torch to carve most of the bushing protrusion off and grinder to get it almost flush. Worked great! Now she's a crawlin around lookin for work. Thanks to all who participated in this thread for sharing your savvy!