How can recessed cartridge valves be removed from hydraulic blocks ? This one is on a CAT work tool. The hex is less than 1/8" above the block surface, and the o-ring is leaking. I have tried to remove the radius on the end of a socket, but still not enough grip to hold. Suggestions would be appreciated.
have you tried seeing if the allen wrench might loosen it up or are you worried about changing the adjustment if so make a mark and count the # of turns to get it out might be worth a try or you might try a hammer and blount punch on the corner of the hex just to loosen it up a little
Loosen the manifold
Open end wrench, ground dead flat. As Hatchequip says, might have to use a punch and hammer to start them loose. They're o-ringed so probably not all that tight. The allen sockets in the center just look like o-ring plugs to me, might be wrong.
Yes the Allen plugs in the center only give access to the internals of the valve. That's not the leaking seal. The one behind the hex is leaking. I'll give the punch a try in the am. Never thought of that. There just isn't enough of it protruding past the block to get ahold of. I ground the end of a 6 pt socket flat, and still could not turn it. Will try the punch. Thanks.
Maybe take that flat ground 6pt socket and grind a bevel on the outside until the 6 corners are ground back 1/8". If that's not enough grip, take a utility knife, or sharp wood chisel, and bevel the aluminum block (unless that's not AL?)
Not doing much but buggering up the hex with the punch. The outer edge of the hex is also tapered, so grabbing it with a wrench really isn't an option. There is NO gap between the points of the hex and the bore that it is in, and about a 32nd between the lands and the bore. There has got to be a process to remove these.
What work tool is it?
92" dozer blade. Leaks just enough to be a pita.
Have you talked to the cat service guys? They may be able to give you some advice on how this is to be removed. Most service depts. will let you talk to a mechanic even though you plan to do the work yourself. It's good business as there will come a time that you can't do the repairs in house and will be looking for a service shop to have the expensive repairs done.
If I dont finger it out by mid week, I have a parts pickup and will ask then. Someone surely has run into this.
Looks like a B@@@ to me too! Maybe a chisel and hammer. Cutting into the block may not be a dad idea either. Shaving the outside edge of the socket should help.
Tried the chisel and hammer this morning. Didn't budge, just messed up one of the points on the hex. Can't imagine it wasn't intended to be serviced. Suspect they installed the cartridge as a unit using the Allen socket on the cap. Problem is that the cap unscrews when reversing, and that's not where the leak is. There's nothing for the socket to hold onto even with it ground flat, to sit right against the block.
Yeah, probably were installed with just the hex driver, and of course loctited in.... Find a nut that will fit over the hex plug, leave room to remove the plug if needed, put the ground lead of a welder on the nut, or a suitable bolt threaded part way into the nut, and weld two flats opposite, try not to put much heat into it. This is where modified stainless shines as it runs cold and is strong as kryptonite. Just leave them on in case you need to service it again. Mind you there is some risk to this procedure, but I am pretty sure it will work! No warranty...
Just a thought. Take out the plug and the spring or whatever's behind it and you might find an internal hex you can put an allen key into.
Have you tried supergluing a nut on top of the one to get ahold of it.?
Got rained out this morning, so thought I'd check this out. No such luck, just a round bore with a spring and the oriface inside. And there's just not enough room to tack a nut to the hex.