After finding some metal on the magnetic plug of my D6D final drive, I am going to have to get it fixed. Finances being not as good as they once were I am considering doing most of the work myself with a qualified diesel fitter to probably doing the reassembly. I think I can borrow a sprocket puller with the appropriate tooling for the job. I have the workshop manual. I know I will need new gears and will be going aftermarket. Genuine Cat gears are way out my price range and the machine is barely a 300hr a year machine and already 45 years old. What opinions are there on aftermarket gear brands. Should I look for some that are crown shaved? I was thinking Italian made ones. Cat do a final drive consumable kit for the D6E 134-6442. I would buy that kit if it is appropriate for the D6D. Checking the bearings and they are the same. Ultimately how difficult a job is it, I know it would get complicated if the top pinion needs replacing especially as I have an air cab. I have the confidence to be able to pull it apart at least. I understand you have to do things like pull the sprocket from the hub and not the dead axle. Never put a cutting torch near bearings. Weld them instead to shrink, which I do when I have to these days.
Anyone? No one?
You need to post this in the Dozer section. Let me see if I can get it moved.
The finial drives are easy to build as long as you have access to a Cat press should be no problem also need the spanner wrench to adjust bearings also check the condition of the nut on the end of the dead axle they can get wallowed out and slip back loosening the bearing preload
It's an easy task to strip out the F/Drives and is always a good idea to do both at the same time, if any of the gears are good you can swap them to the other side and get all the wear from them, on the D6 C-D -E's I would have done well past a 100 F/Drives with the hardest part or longest time is getting out the bearings as a few of them are pegged, the inner intermediate bearing race is pegged and will need the housing removed to sort, so this involves draining the Trans oil before you get in a mess, the things to look out for are the tin labrinth sections on the sprocket as they often suffer damage. tctractors it might be worth looking in Shop Talk for some of of the pictures I have posted in the past.
Yep that's where im at with my D7E. Big job
If possible, I would stay away from the large aftermarket supplier in Toowoomba, although they will undoubtedly be the cheapest. The Cat general duty appear to be good value, but I don’t see an alternate number for the int. gear.
Worst part of the job is getting the cab and operator station out of the way to replace the pinion. Doesn't DJ live near to you and willing to do it for a case of beer?
Thanks, being a repair question I thought "shop" might have been more appropriate. OK, thanks. I checked the sprocket for wobble with a crowbar when I got the machine about 350 hours ago. It was movement free then. Thanks, the other side was done before I bought it, while I have no idea what they did, there was free gasket goo on the final drive case and also goo on the steering clutch compartment. When I changed the oil last there was no metal in the one side and lots of flakes and a couple of gear tooth chips on the other side. I stuck my finger in the hole to feel the tooth and the bull gear on the side that needs repairing you could feel the roughness of the tooth on both sides . The other side felt smooth. The the tin guard on the sprocket on the side I need to do has been repaired with some big diameter tube or something like that welded onto the tin guard. In the parts book that guard or the rivets are not listed as a replacable part. I have looked in the forums for other threads and have found a few including your multipage one. HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums There seem to be varying opinions on the cat aftermarket gears. Some say good, some say rubbish. They are a lot cheaper. Bull gear $4872 verses $1948 pinion the two gears $3645 versus $1588 small pinion $855 versus $420 If I had to replace all the gears with their aftermarket and plus the bearing/seal kit from Cat it will be around $6500 for materials. Provided the dead axle and hubs are all serviceable. So in today's market say about 3 cows worth. dj lives just down the road, so about 2.5hours drive away. It is his sprocket puller I am hoping to borrow.
The Sprocket guard is listed and can be bolted or just welded onto the existing rivets by just grinding the rivet dome heads off, as for pulling the sprocket you will need to pop off the outer hub first so study the pictures as the answers are all to be seen, when you pull the sprocket make sure the hub nut is in place with a gap of around 1/4" or just a bit less to save any drama's. tctractors
OK Thanks. That guard is not listed on the page for all the final drive breakdown (which was why I could not find it), but I turned the page on my parts book and found it was listed on the sprocket segments page. 4F6066 and there is even Cat yellow mark ones available 502-3590
Went through this a few years ago. HeavyEquipmentForums
Still not started yet but am working out a parts list for bearings and such. I tried the D6E final drive rebuild kit but it's bearings numbers to not cross over, neither do the duo cone seal numbers and another seal. But when I tried to put the cylindrical roller bearings numbers out of the parts list for a D6D into SIS they come up as not available. I fully suspect the bearings are all the same but the numbers do not update. So a 6B5163 is probably a 5P9176 but SIS says otherwise. The duo cone is a 8P1848 but it says not available contact dealer, but it is probably a 9W6674 but again sis says differently.
I've not (yet) taken a deep dive into this, but at first glance 6B5163 probably IS, at some point 5P9176. 8P1848 appears to also be 6T8439 or 9G5341.
Looks right as 2P2810 is the mate to 6B5163 and 5P9176 and 5P9177 are the new numbers for the D6E final drive bearing kit So 2B5163 ---> 5P9176 2P2810 ---> 5P9177 The other numbers for the intermediate gears bearings are I suspect 6B5067 ---> 6V1013 9S8669 ---> 6V1014 5M7705 ---> 5P5067 9S4085 ---> 5P5066 That is what I come up with as well as a 108-2194. But it says not in stock contact dealer for any number.
There seems to be plenty available aftermarket from the usual suppliers
Yes but only Cat parts give Cat performance I was always told for bearings and seals in high expense areas like final drives, better to go genuine parts because they are the right ones and usually priced quite reasonably. What the reality is though on aftermarket I have no idea. Although looking at SIS today, has it been changed so parts in overseas warehouses no longer show up? Pretty hard to believe there is not a duo cone seal in a Cat warehouse in Singapore or the USA.
The internet can only do so much. Call Hastings on 131 228 (131 CAT ) It's their job to help you out. Also try calling Expressway, Don Clark Tractors, RD Williams and ask if their parts are NOS or aftermarket. They will be happy to talk to you.
6B5162 is listed as a 312 bearing with an inside diameter of 77.67mm. 5P9176 is listed as a 61312 bearing with an inside diameter of 74.656mm. All the other dimensions are identical between the two bearings. As RC & CMark have said if you pair the 5P-9176 with its correct mate the 5P-9177 then everything works, but don't try mixing and matching the inner and outer partsof the bearing. On the Duo-Cones both of the options in CM's illustration above for a service part for 8P-1848 (9G-5341 & 6T-8439) service to 9W-6674.
Thanks. It seems last night the cat website was playing up as this morning it seems to be finding parts. I also found on SIS2 where cmark was able to find the replacement part numbers. In any case, I put those new bearing numbers in and everything is coming up as in stock in this state.
Had a friend that ran those older cats he told me if your doing the final drives go with cat easy stuff to get at use after market he would do his finals every 3 thousand hrs. he always replaced the bearings gears he would sometimes just switch sides.
Is this the way to do it? The first ten minutes of the video are a total waste of time so fast forward to the last thirty seconds to see the action.
Well I have seen some Midland Bankers in my days, but these boys take the Gold Cup I feel, lucky that no injury resulted I know they managed to pull the rim but they must have damaged something doing this , the tooling they used was totally the wrong kit, pressing the rim back on might be an interesting thing to view, the correct adapter used to dismount and install the rim would have limited the travel of the rim when pulled to 10 mm, there is always the comment that we used what we had, or that's all we had to do it with, well all they were doing was damaging the equipment, they need to learn their Trade or keep clear of this sort of work, even them little Toffee Hammers they tapped on the rim with made my chin drop, when I give a rim a whack it's with a good bit of force, well worth watching thank you .RC. for posting this Comedy.
Well plans are on hold for the time being. The pump for the sprocket puller need repairs so am waiting on that. In the meantime with all the turmoil going on around the world I decided to order the bearings and seals I knew I would need. According to the Cat website they were all available in this state at various locations. So two weeks ago I put in the order. Went to pick it up yesterday and some bearings were not in the package. I inquired where are they. Oh they are still in the warehouse 600km away. I am not greatly impressed that Cat can not deliver parts in the same state that should be overnight or two days at the latest, instead it is blowing out to many weeks. I have bought stuff from the US that has arrived quicker then that.
In the meantime I have found out if the hub is stuffed I have found a "repair" shop.
tctractors is going to be out of a job soon with all these DIY final drive repair videos from Pakistan
I tend to think my patch up jobs are a bit on the edge to these lads, the top pinion needed the Arc Welder treatment and why did they not lift out the intermediate gears to give them more room? the press fit back together with the Sledge Hammer to the Bull Gear is something I have yet to try, but a very interesting film of doing what you can with what you have, we have to be thankful for the tools and equipment that we have, I do love the Team Effort you often see in these type of films they do have skills. tctractors
I especially liked one of their videos on welding a large hole in the side of a 4 cyl Diesel engine block or the one where they welded a broken crankshaft, straightened and reground it. It would be interesting to know the long-term reliability of some of their repairs
TC got it right in his comment above - "a very interesting film of doing what you can with what you have". If that's all they have available to them and they don't have the option of new or used replacement parts, the answer's what you see in the video. The continuous failures must keep them in work though.
Well I am one step closer.
Well I did not know Cat made repair videos.
R.C. it looks like you have the Bush Repair Kit on rim tooling ? the press sleeve looks like a cylinder liner with a pin window cut in, the ram looks to be a 74 ton job handy enough but for D6 up you really need that extra capacity of the 105 cylinder, the dead shaft adapter for the D6 is 1 3/4" x 12 tpi,if you look at the pictures I have posted you will see how I tackle them, on good ground with an excavator or something I can use I will strip out both frames and final drives on a D6 C/D on my tod easy in a day, if the top pinion/s are damaged that is the Cream on the job for me, you need to sort some lining pins to help remove / install the outer cover they are 1/2" UNC the longer the better, then you need 2 D shackles that you hook into the cover to lift it, its all easy really you just need to think things through also some thick grease to pack the roller bearings in the cover to aid fitting as they keep dropping down and you will damage things. tctractors
Thanks, I have the right tooling, I just did not have a picture of it. There is the bit you screw onto the dead axle, then the slotted spacer you fit against that so all the force is on the hub itself. I have got the sprocket off now. The gauge on the pump is faulty (under reads) which I will have to rectify before pressing the sprocket back on, but it took a bit of tonnage and went off with a bang and the gauge was around 50 ton when it went. I have a video of it here popping. Sadly I obviously did it wrong as the few videos on youtube often show the tooling flying to hell when it pops. This one just popped against the nut. Splines look fine and I measured the sprocket to hub spline before pulling and it was within spec. However I found the nut that holds the sprocket tight was loose, it had been locked. First picture is pulling off the outer support housing off the taper. It was pretty tight and I would have been surprised if an ordinary three leg puller like the manual shows would have done it. Third photo shows the outer bearing damage. Looks to me like it has been repaired before. It was tight when I pulled it off with the nut, But probably not as tight as it should have been. I might have to do something about that. I do not think the chinese knurl trick will work too well. I have found the pulling apart bit at least is not as hard a job as I expected. I am getting help for the reassembly.
Some more pics.
Dead axle is bent 2mm. Intermediate gear is a one piece and pinion on it is stuffed. Bull gear stuffed. Bearings stuffed. Top pinion has the start of minor pitting. However it has considerable end float. You can pull it in and out what seems like a 1/4" or so.
So I have rung around the suppliers and ordered three new gears. CGR brand. I did not get the cheapest nor the most expensive, but was surprised at the variation in price. I am up in the air on the dead axle. Bend tolerance is 1.6mm. remeasuring mine, it seems bent around 2.2mm. I have cleaned the top pinion. It seems to have suffered more from metal flakes in the oil. Does it look alright?
Sprocket pulling video.
You cannot judge the end float of the top pinon with the outer bearing not in location so forget this point. the top pinion can rattle on for a good bit I feel, when you reassemble do not use anything with silicone stick to the Red jollop or something like Stag jointing compound, it stinks some but works well, the intermediate gear set has been a 2 piece setup for years now, pressing things back together is the easy bit but getting the outer hub on has its tricks, on the D/ shaft issue I would firstly re-check your detail and if you are right I usually swap shafts side to side, but you are doing a blinding job chap, last thought the hub bearing area needs to be a crack on fit not loose so possibly a metal spray repair??? tctractors
Thanks, I checked the measurement twice at different times and it is around that 2mm minimum. Might be as much as 2.3mm, but no more. It is a bugger to measure, but I have an 18" machinists square I used. I think the question is how much is too much and when I am putting £2800 of new parts in it should I spend the extra 600 for a dead axle. I have no idea how much bend is too much other then what the book says which is 1.6mm.
I have found that checking the Dead Shaft is best done with 2 people and a surface clean up on all points of the compass, I use a fine looking square that is a beast of a thing,so i know how hard it is to get the dip correct on this task, the Dead Shaft can be a fair pig to remove and be warned you need to only undo the inner C nut a max 2 turns when you pull it, they will shoot out without the nut in place, if you resort to the Pepper Pot heating of the case to ease removal be warned that as they pop a flame thrower is coming at you, so stand well off when doing it, when the shaft has pulled off the taper you undo the inboard nut totally then you will have to pull it out a good way with the Service press before it gives up the struggle, getting a new shaft in is more fun but you might just leave well alone and go with what you have, again its very hard to measure to the centre of the shaft by yourself and the shaft shape is odd and only the engineered end thread is fit to dip off. tctractors
I am tossing up whether to repair or replace the hub. I got the inner bearing off and while it was tight, the surface area is well worn with evidence of previous oxy gouges from cutting bearings off. I have not got prices for repairing the surfaces but I know it is not going to be cheap, in fact I expect it to be over half the price of a new one. There is also fretting where the bull gear bolts to the hub.
OK the cost to repair is substantially more then a new general duty one from Cat. I guess it is what happens when you live in a mining area.
The bearing might have been tight to remove but that would have been only over the unworn area of the hub, the bearing looks to have spun a good bit on the hub, here it would be metal spray treated and cut to standard size for less than half cost of new non OE part. tctractors
Metal spraying is pretty expensive stuff to get done here. Maybe it is the labour side of things. I did not expect $3000 though, but I thought it would not be worth it compared to a new part of CTP brand for $1250. What is the replacement for the 7M7260 gasket goo. The Cat website which I find is pathetic just says contact dealer.
Cat got out of the sealants & adhesives markets years ago. All their products were manufactured by Loctite anyway, The replacement for 7M-7260 was 9U-5839 (tube)/138-8436 (can w/brush) Liquid Gasket. The equivalent Loctite product is Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant
What to do here? It is the retainer that holds the thin metal sleeve. Nothing? Fill with nickel weld and turn it back? Fill it with devcon?
I think I have all the parts now. Probably a bit disappointed at the finish on the gears. There does not seem to be any finishing on them after cutting. They look to be cut by the sunderland process. They were not ground finished. But if I do 3 thousand hours in the next ten years I will be surprised. Can the final drive case be welded. Down where the drain plug is a deep gouge has been worn into the case from tens of thousands of hours of work. I suspect the final drive guard that was on there funnels the rocks and dirt to this area and it needs some buildup done.
As far as i know, they are made from cast steel, so no problem welding. I once welded a patch to a housing where a bent track pad had worn a hole through the case on an old d6c
Yes you can weld them
Thanks, got the case repaired. I also got the bull gear bolted onto the hub. Bolts were a b*****d to do up as they have to go so tight.
Still getting there. A lot of labour in this job. Nothing that is very complicated though. Got the cab tilted and pinion out. Bearings are all installed except for the outer tapered roller. Steering clutch and brakes are like new.
Slowly slowly does it. Got the sprocket all pressed on today. This loctite tacky gasket goo looks like plum jam.
.RC. really appreciate the photos/update...having never been that “deep” into a dozer repair it’s VERY helpful to see the before (aka damage), during (heres how I fixed part xyz), and soon the after (I assume it’ll be the video of it pushing!! ; ). Big fan of this thread...keep up the great work!!
The D6D top pinion is common to see with an extended stump before the thread section needing a longer adapter to be used? tctractors
I had to make an adapter to push the pinion hub back on. The one that came with the puller the thread was too big to fit the pinion. There is no video of pressing the sprocket back on. It was very unmelodramatic. It just went on.
You look to be pressing up with the 74 Ton cylinder??? also you have a few bits missing off the outer case, lets hope the Duo-cone seal stays put. tctractors
When that picture was taken, only the brand new shiny yellow half guard had not been put on. The guards on the sprocket were all in good order.
Well I tried installing the outer duo cone seals today and seem to have failed. I can get them in no problem. The toric ring sits up against the the outer lip of the seal ramp. I adjust the toric ring so they are well within the 1mm height difference tolerance. I put oil on the faces. Then I put everything together and the seals butt up together about 5/8" to 3/4" short of where I need to be so the outer plate and nut can not be put on. How much are these seals supposed to squash up? I know the ramp is pretty deep and if the toric ring was sitting in the bottom of both sides there should be plenty of room but the rings will not go to the bottom, nor will they ride up the metal sealing bit either, they sit in a groove on it. Or is it a case of brute force needed? I have just been going gently. I used the trick of some electrical wiring held on with zip ties as explained in the installing duo cones seals thread. HeavyEquipmentForums
Firstly you do not put any oil on the rubber bits of the seals and the land they sit in has to be dry and also retain the seal complete without the Zip things, the hub adjuster needs to be backed right off so the inner section with the bearing cup slides in. tctractors
Thanks, sounds like I had them installed correctly then. Thanks, I did have them dry, the zip ties were just to hold the electrical wire in to assist in installation as per the suggestions in the installing seals thread. I think I may have found the issue and it was an amateurs mistake. However it is now raining so will not be able to get back to it for a day at least. It is very well covered so will not get wet.
There was a break in the weather so I tried take 2. Seals into correct depth and square to bore. The outer support still went on with only a bit of thread showing. So I screwed on an adapter and it pushed in fairly easily. Then it started showering again so all tarped up again. But it seems I was simply being too gingerly. Where those seals sit in the ramp now to when they are squashed up there is about a 5mm difference. So times by four seals that is 20mm.
The outer support is now locked onto the taper so I can install the shims and track frame bearing now, fill with oil and adjust the bearings. The new adjusting nut I bought when it turned up had made in China on it and on the outside seems to be the shittiest casting I have seen, it looks like the surface of the moon. I have seen better stuff come from Pakastani truck repairers, however there were no voids in the internal machined parts of the cast iron. I got it from where I did because they were the closest supplier. Hopefully I am on the home straight now.
Was looking at your lock tab detail, the favorite way to sort the tab is to lock the tab to the nut as you tighten it then tap the tab to the flat area on the rim when tight, before you go to undo the dead shaft nut to shim set the frame make sure the nut is well tight first and the hub adjuster is a bit slack as the hub can fly off when the nut is removed, then give yourself a pat on the back chap.
That would make sense with the lock tab. I did the nut up bloody tight and could not get it to fit in a groove. The nut was quite loose when I originally disassembled it. The bearing had been spinning on the hub and had also worn part of that nut away. I have a cylindrical grinder here so had to grind a mm or so off it to get it back square.
RC, isn't there a lock washer for that outer hub nut? - or have Cat dispensed with it? If that nut comes loose while you're working, you'll be in a world of costly pain again.
Lock plate that sits over the nut and locates on two dowels, OzD.
Yes, it it there, just not installed.
Well the finals are all back together, tracks on. No oil leaks (yet). I am just working on other things on the dozer at the moment as it is too wet to move it around anyway. If people are interested in the cost, it was around US$5500 in parts. Pretty much everything was replaced except the top pinion and the dead axle and case. Labor cost was nil. Thanks to everyone especially tctractors for all the helpful advice. Without it I would have made a right old mess.
Have done around 35 hours on it and the final drive oil has gone dark. Since the new gear teeth were not shiny as they had not been shaved or ground the oxide layer from the induction hardening was all on the teeth. So this is where I would say the black has come from. Since iron oxide is very hard and I feel I do not want a lapping compound going through the bearings I decided to dump the oil. The plug had a good amount of fuzz which had the consistency of anti-sieze compound on it much like in this thread HeavyEquipmentForums Been pushing dirt so it has not been light work.
Mine had a similar amount of fuzz in the plugs after running it perhaps 25 hrs or so, if I recall correctly. My oil didn't turn dark though.
Dark oil = burnt oil? F/Drive fails take a lot of cleaning out and to be honest it's near impossible to get every speck and flake out of the internals although lot of it can be new parts, so don't loose any sleep over the drain plug magnet looking happy with it's self, but the next drain period should look better, as for the slot dozing don't forget always use front to back pushing and again well done for sticking with it .RC. tctractors
Well maybe dark oil was a slight exaggeration. It had a slight dark tint to it like used transmission oil. I got the new oil in it today but it is too wet to use at the moment.
Nothing wrong with your oil RC
I've been watching your thread as a friend has a D5B that is leaking on one side from the outer seals. I've never done any in the past but will attempt to do his. We both have friends the tooling, (pullers, installers) can be borrowed from, so shouldn't need to fabricate much. Many of the tips both Willie59, and Nige have posted in the referenced thread to installing these things will be followed as they make sense to me. Thanks for your postings and follow ups.
.RC. your final drain plug got me wondering how bad do my final plugs look??? …no “chunks”, but PLENTY of fuzz/crap!! My oil wasn’t terrible considering it was likely 10-12 years old. Looking in my service manual I see Cat recommends (in 1967) every 1000 hours to check/retighten the sprocket nut; I notice in step 6 they mention tighten the “adjusting nut” with 5ft pipe…curious what you’ve been using for a tool to hook/tighten that nut?? Lastly, did you have to add/remove any shims to (better?) align your track?? My guess is no, using the shims that were on your machine probably worked fine…but I can see where doing it (once!) on assembly is key. Appreciate the info/links that you (and others) have posted.
Well no chunks on the magnet is a bonus. As for the shims. My alignment is about 8mm out and shims would not fix it. An old machine, using aftermarket parts, when you realise the alignment all relies on tapers being correctly cut and parts not being worn when reassembled I think that 10mm is not that critical. If you were doing 1000+ hours a year, yes maybe it might be worth spending money getting the alignment spot on so everything lasts longer. In fact when you look at the other side I did not touch as it was done not long before I bought it, the sprocket lines up about 30mm out of alignment with the front idler. Of course the track frame on that side has been heavily welded and reinforced, even so far as the end of the diagonal brace was cut off and rewelded on. The track goes round and round. I am not worried about some alignment issues on a 45 year old dozer with a zillion hours on it.
I found it at the end of the day not that complicated to do. Even the mysterious Duo Cone seals did not turn out that hard to install. Still running well. Got my first real dam finished today. Probably around 5000 yards of dirt shifted.
And a foot to go and it will overflow.
A year and a bit later it is finally full. and has bywashed. The neighbour has decided to get a dam built as well. Just they only got started and it decided to rain, so his is full as well, but has an unusual position for the bywash.
Woo-Hoo! One of my old steeds! An ex-Army S-7 Euclid elevator scraper!! I didn't know there were any still running! These are 1960's machines!
They were telling me they had a pair of them, except the other one is a twin power. Another GM to drive the elevator.
And, if Iam not mistaken, a 14C hiding in the background. We’ve had about 10 inches in the last six weeks but hardly run a drop of water. Certainly not enough to fill a dam.
Yes, a rare one. A direct drive 14C.
Yes, the S-7 had a 4-71 for main power (135HP from memory), 4 speed Allison, and a 2-71 to drive the elevator. Spent enough time on them, to lose a fair amount of my hearing!
I will resurrect this thread as the issue stems from it. I have not done anything about it as it has run sort of fine. There is no binding or anything. After I put everything back together and installed the track frame, it was never aligned properly with the bottom rollers. Before I pulled it apart it was. The is probably 3/8"- 1/2" out of alignment (in towards the tractor too far)and now some time has passed and the chain will rub on the sprocket. Not bad, but it rubs. The diagonal brace bearing is also all jammed over one side and there is room there to move it outwards to correct the alignment. Now I know there are shims that you put under the dead axle nut for alignment, however this is only for minor movement of the track frame. Not for 1/2" of moving it. I have been racking my brain as to why it never went back in the same position I pulled it apart. I thought as I replaced the hub, maybe the aftermarket one was made all wrong and the sprocket was incorrectly positioned, but it projects the same distance from the tractor frame as the other side. So no issue there. The only other thing it could be is the outer support, the bit that sits on the taper and you tighten with the nut on the dead axle. I replaced it with an aftermarket one, and it is it that aligns the track frame with the rollers. So for the older people that remember these old designs, have they ever had an issue with track frame alignment from out of spec parts? I did find this thread with a similar problem, but as usual, no known outcome. D6D Track Frame Alignment I bought a D6D dozer six months ago. I thought I had inspected it fairly well before I bought it, but it seems like the longer I own it, the more things I find that I overlooked. The other day I noticed the track frame alignment is off in the rear. The sprockets on both sides are sitting to... HeavyEquipmentForums
Having 3 lots of tapers, (axle to casing, sprocket to hub, axle to holder) that have been pushed, pulled and replaced who knows how many times in 40 years has this effect I guess. I would remove the nut and put as many shims as you have behind the retainer plate to force the track frame out and see how much it improves.
RC, you're already onto it - it's the variation in taper on the aftermarket outer hub you purchased. It doesn't take much variation in taper to position the hub either in or out quite a distance from the original position of an original hub. There's not much you can do about it, if the outer hub is positioned too far in. The only cure is machining it out and sleeving it with a tapered insert, to get it positioned out further.
Thanks, there is some amount of thread showing on the nut when I pulled the outer plate off. Maybe Glums idea of making up a thick shim will work. It is the easiest and cheapest. Anpther thing just dawned on me is I thought the outer cover plate was just that, merely a plate to cover and seal everything up. But I think it is also supposed to pull the track frame out and press against the inner circular bit that has the red grease on it in the picture below.
Yes, RC, that's exactly how it works. Shims behind the plate, to move it outward on the axle, then when you tighten the outer cover up against the retainer plate it pulls the whole frame outward.
Of course if the outer hub is pushed on more, it also means the duo cone seal is squashed up more. Tolerances stacked upon tolerances upon tolerances. You can see now why International were way ahead of Caterpillar on final drive design back in the 1960's and 1970's with their separated from the trackframe planetary design.
Gday RC, was good reading your thread you put up about the final drive strip and build. Researching information about doing the finals on my D6C. Im in CQ also, Emerald area.