The shuttle pressure guage on my case 580b started sticking in the lower edge of the green. I replaced it and changed my shuttle oil as I posted in an earier thread. The guage appeared to be the original. I replaced it with one that shows actual pressure. It runs 175 lbs. hot or cold,in gear or out, forward or reverse. Drops to 35lbs. with clutch peddle depressed. Tractor moves well in 1st and 2nd gear. Not as well in 3rd gear and will hardly move in 4th without lots of throttle. Is this about normal or do I have a pressure problem?
3steps56, When driving your car or truck - do you start off in 3rd or 4th?? rofessor These backhoes are meant to be driven on the road by starting off in 2nd gear & shifting on the go into 3rd & then 4th. What your describing sounds perfectly normal.
you are correct Airman................ brains have to be engaged the same,,:drinkup
To answer your question. No I don't. I never used any kind of tractor with the shuttle transmission before. Only used two that were hydrostatic neither of them in road gears. Very few of the old tractors with dry clutch and manual transmissions that I have used could be shifted into higher gears on the move. I Just bought this old backhoe to learn to use. So far I all I have done is get it ready to use. Had no brakes when I got it,shuttle transmission fluid had water it and hydralic fluid has water in it. None of the lights worked or any of the guages except oil pressure. None of the lights worked and neither did the alternator. Still working on it and learning how everything should work.
Only foolish question before action is the one not asked. alrman or Airman???????????????
3steps56, It may seem you may have been offended in some way by my answer to your question, if so, none was intended,& I apologise.
Relax 3steps56, alrman is a Case technician and is always more than happy to offer extensive advice, I can assure you he meant no offense in his answer. Yet his answer is spot on, those old B model Case machines didn't have a lot of "umph" in 3rd and 4th range even when roading. Hit any kind of hill in 4th while roading and you'll be dropping to 3rd and 2nd real quick.
Whatever you do, don't get crossways with alrman! He can (and does) help all of us with LOADS of knowledge. :notworthy When I look at the number of posts from each member I have to think of this as respect. Some dudes on this board can't spell super good, or maybe not know the English language 100%, but it's very obvious that have used hand cleaner 1000 times more than me, and experience is the best teacher. And I like learning stuff from them. Alrman is not lacking in any area, he even knows local slang terms. He even discusses moonshine whiskey some old mountain boys here in the states... I am thankful every day for him and others that don't have to spend their valuable time here helping me and others. Generally whatever alrman suggests... I just do it. I tell folks at times that a man in Australia helped me fix this or that, and I get some strange looks. The original question was not foolish, just a general indication that you needed to learn something. I have a 580SE and I do not change gears on the fly either, but I rarely run in 4th gear anyway because my pasture is too small. But I can actually start off in 3rd or even 4th gear, From reading this now, maybe alrman will tell me I should not!
The B is a spur gear type tranny in all 4 fwd gears, the C and later had 3--4 gear synchros effectively giving you 3 on the go shifts. We all have had experience shifting the older trannys on the go and ALR's point is well taken. Those old machines power to weight put them underpowered in the roading gears. The only thing I can add is the fuel system should be well maintained and the high idle rpm should be verified to be corect. Nothing kills the performance of one of those units as much as misadjusted throttle linkage not bringing the throttle lever against it's stop, converters like rpms. From my perspective, many times I read this forum and ALR just answers the question in a way that I could not add anything to to make it any clearer. We have talked via private message and I consider him a friend. If he came across in a way that offended you I know that was not his intent.
3step, I have never used a transmission with a dry clutch that could not be shifted up or down while on the move. There are two ways to do it, but it takes a little learning with a gentle hand to do it. First and easiest way is to double clutch it. That is achieved by putting the transmission in neutral while on the move and then engage the clutch and speed up or slow down the engine, depending on weather you are up shifting or downshifting. This had to be done with transmissions that did not have synchronizes. The other way is to put hand pressure on the gearshift and feather the throttle until you can easily go into neutral. Then either speed up or let the engine slow down while putting VERY gentle hand pressure on the two gears you are trying to engage. They will slide together real easy with a little practice.
Willie 59,bowen,melben,tinkerer I wasn't really offended by alrmans comment. I private messaged him to explain. There was another comment that i was responding to. Anyway no big deal. Just seeking knowledge about the old backhoe and trying to confirm what I have already guessed at about it. Tinkerer I drove a truck for 22 years just never thought about applying that method of shifting to a tractor. I doubt that I will ever need the road gears. I was just testing the shuttle by trying the take off in higher gears. I wanted confirmation it was working properly after I changed the fluid and filter. I have read alot of info on here about the shuttles being weak and wasn't sure if mine was performing correctly or if i needed to check it out further before I used it.