I've got about 6 lines to replace between the backhoe and the outriggers and I was curious what the procedure might be for removing them from the back main control valve?
Hey going through the same thing on my 655e, blew a hose doing a light job last week. Noticed 4 others weeping, so got 2 loose as the examples of what I would need. I believe the supplies your going to find are 3/4" ORFS lines, and the returns are an odd 5/8" ORFS (o-ring face seal). My lines measured 4' from that control valve to the hard lines on the boom. They could be like 50" though as I could not get them entirely straight. So, I am putting on a ORFS long fitting, (found by the control valve, ORFS-Female). After doing a little research I have decided to go down to 1/2" on the returns as this is a homeowner and not a commercial 12hr day machine. You can find a maker online with all the custom settings/lines if you don't want to adapt them. I used the link from hydraulic hose to figure out the size with a caliper. Link1 : http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf To get off the lines we attempted to use a flare nut wrench similar to link2, but end the end relied on a little heat on the hard line nut side only. Actually the nice flare nut wrench didn't bite or give enough, so in the end relied on two big adjustable wrenches and put a block under to support the hard lines from getting tweaked. Link2 flare nut example: http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.com/cat-20-1-478/flare-nut-heads-h-.htm (most are just a wrench).
I would pressure wash that block and measure the nut base on the lines then order a crowfoot line wrench to fit like this. http://www.amazon.com/Williams-SCF40-Crowfoot-Wrench-4-Inch/dp/B005VNLH6C Make sure the boom is supported before you take the lines loose. I have a shop local to me that can make the hoses while I wait. See if you have one local to you.
Is the boom okay if it resting on the ground? Is this even the right position? Do you have to take all the outer lines off to get to the inner ones or is there a better access point than the back of the tractor? Can you come in from above where the control box is?
As NH575 said it should be supported. In the manual they show it basically resting on a heavy workhorse. I put mine in a arch config with the bucket helping to hold it that way (shoved up against a wall). More than likely with out those socket driven crow foot your going to have to take the outer off then work towards inners. There really isn't a whole lot of space under there, the boom side actually gave me a tougher fight. I don't think removing the controls above would/will help much as they valve assy is right on the edge of the outside of the cab. At least I have not removed/gone in through the controls above yet.
Thanks X-Ray! If you get a chance could you send me a picture of how they recommend supporting the boom? Thanks again!
Rather than buy a 1 1/4" crow foot I bought an 1 1/4" wrench in a second hand store and bent it into a crows foot for a couple bucks.
Nice... I like it!!
Like xray said you have to start at one end wouldn't hurt to mark your hoses in a manner you get them back correctly they'll most likely be tight so I use a wrench through the end of the home made crows foot to give me leverage.
Here's what the manual shows when removing the cylinder for supporting the boom. Love the vague language of it ("suitable stand").
I had a really thick 3/4 crows foot wrench, looked great, first time using it I broke it in half, hmm, bought the three sizes I needed from snap on and they worked flawlessly with the 1/2 inch ratchet and a cheater bar even.
Big thanks X-Ray!! I am surprised a saw horse is suitable support.
That 'sawhorse' is made of unobtanium, something only the govt has access to. Rest of us use 6x6 cribbing piled high enough to work. Or cut chunks of a tree trunk, use your imagination.
:falldownlaugh I found some on unobtanium on Ebay yesterday but I got out bid. Thanks El Hombre!!
Does extending the boom also mean I'll loose more hydraulic oil when I pull the lines?
Your gonna lose some just due to pulling the lines (mostly from the hardline side). I think, mine bled out like a gallon. I believe there is like 8gal in all the cylinders combined, so only dealing with 3-4 should be minimal spillage. You can just leave a oil change bucket or sm. tub under those lines and another small one under the valve area..
Got it...thanks again!
Note the lack of nails in the sawhorse pictured... It's made of 1/4 wall 2x4 steel tubing, welded with 7018 rod. Remember the hoe likely weighs 4000 or more pounds. Softwood 2x4 saw horses just will not do... :tong