I recently purchased a John Deere 410 I believe 1978 model. It had weak Hydraulics that eventually failed within the first few days. I was aware of this and planned for it. I put a rebuilt pump on it changed all the filters the fluid, and it worked beautifully. I used it two days later and discovered a leak so I shut it down,tightened the loose plug that was leaking, and noticed a good leak from a connection at the pump. I replaced the oring and ran it for two hours, all was well. I shut it down for about 45 minutes, and when I went to reuse it it started right up but had no Hydraulics no power steering won't move won't do anything completely dead boy I hope someone here can help and thank you in advance
The John Deere has a sophisticated (for the day) hydraulic system. Your pump is radial 8 cylinders. It has a pressurized "crankcase" the pistons return to center under spring force. If there is sufficient pressure the pistons don't return to center. They go "out of stroke". You should have nearly constant pressure. The volume of fluid moved by the pump varies with load. Usually pressure will fail only when volume goes excessive. There is a priority valve directing flow to steering if pressure falls too low. I had a similar problem with mine. I can't remember who it was suggested an infrared camera. "There is oil flowing somewhere it shouldn't". "Get an infrared camera, start it cold, the camera will show you where the oil is going." In my case, the volunteer fire department had one. It was immediately obvious that three sections of the backhoe valve were blowing by. I found that the sections were obsolete, only a whole valve was available. A whole valve cost as much as the tractor cost. I ended up with an aftermarket valve costing 1/3 what the JD valve would. Section width was different, so I had to fabricate a new bracket for the joysticks. Willie
Thanks Willy it's a start! I will see what I can come up with
Check the coupler and spline shaft are connected up and spinning together, sometimes things fail and the pump just isn't turning anymore. Question, does it still drive in forward and reverse? If yes, hydraulic pump/system problem, if no, then transmission drive or pump problem.
It did'nt move or anything. After it was off for about 4 hours everything came back...???
Cool oil doesn't slip through tiny spaces easily. Hot oil does. In my valve the inner bores were too big for the spool. Oil was passing from high pressure to return to tank. For the first 1/2 hour it'd work fine. After that, the backhoe was barely able to lift the empty bucket. The loader took 5 minutes to lift to full height. Steering was fine, transmission was OK. Capping the hose supplying the oil to the backhoe valve, the tractor worked fine. It took forever for New Hampshire Hydraulics to come up with a replacement valve. Meanwhile I used the loader just fine. Willie
One thing you might look at, some machines had a solenoid valve in the pump control block bolted to the pump. The solenoid energizes with the starter to unload the pump and help the engine turn faster for starting. Possible this solenoid valve, if you have one, got stuck in the unload position.
Would that valve be on the pump up at the front or is there another pump on this thing. I'm under the impression there are two but I'm not really certain that that's true. Reading other threads on other posts they talk of a transmission pump and then the main pump up front. If it's the pump up front we're talking about there is no power to anything up there. But it's acting like something like that. As I posted earlier I was able to get it to work fine again last night, today it's totally Dead from the get-go yet again. No movement no Hydraulics nothing
I'll defer to you, is this tractor that advanced? I'd heard from the 60s that that was what made the John Deere's easy to start. After a few revolutions of the pump, the pistons went "out of stroke from pressure build up in the pump. After that, the hydraulics were nearly free wheeling. Open center hydraulics continue to try to pump volumes of stiff oils. Closed center systems consume almost no horsepower when stagnant. From my observations, only after the advent of geeks did the electronic junk arrive. When Al Gore invented the internet, breeding like April blackflies, Geek geniuses swarmed machinery manufacturers with the single minded goal of making everything fail electronically. Electronics aren't bad, except that only the genius who invented them understands why they work. Yet he has no idea how to fix it when it doesn't work. Usually, a failure is eventually traced, after thousands of dollars of "expert" effort to a loose, or corroded connection, or the failure of a genius to realize that a stranded wire can't effectively be sealed from water infiltration. I digress! I've allowed a hundred frustrating days to cloud my post. In truth, I love electronic engineers. God, I apologize, and be with the starving pygmies in New Guinea. Willie
Not electronic, electric solenoid connected directly to the start terminal on the starter, helped unload the pump while cranking. It was I think a cold weather option. There is also a screw in valve actuator with a cross pin, looks like a little "T" that you screw in to manually unload the pump for the same effect. You might check that make sure it's turned all the way out. Yes, there's a transmission pump inside the tranny that supplies pressure for the clutch packs but also supplies inlet oil to the front hydraulic pump. Back to the transmission question, does it drive okay forward and reverse, just no hydraulics?
When it goes dead it does not drive at all no drive and no hydraulics after it went dead yesterday, I tried it later and it worked fine for three and a half hours. It's very intermittent which leads me to believe it could be a solenoid or a sticking valve of some sort
There's a dry clutch on that model which disconnect the transmission from the flywheel for starting, have a look at the pedal and linkage, make sure everything is functioning as it should. If you haven't serviced the transmission oil, drain it out, pull the strainer out of the bottom of the case, goes in sideways from the right side I think on the 410, could be wrong. If you're losing drive then it's either mechanical from engine to tranny or something in the tranny pump system.
Is that dry clutch you're talking about run off the regular clutch pedal? There is a small circular pedal next to where you fill the hydraulic fluid I'm not sure what that does. The machine was working fine for a couple of days and then while I was moving it I bumped a tree pretty gently but it was a little bit of a jar and I very quickly lost all movement and hydraulics again which is leading me to believe it's a problem with linkage or something stupid like that. Unfortunately I just don't know enough about this thing. Thanks for all the help so far
I think the little circle you step on is the differential lock? Yes, if I recall correctly (it was common to Deere machines of this era) the clutch pedal has two functions, push it down until you meet resistance and that declutches the reverser so you can shift gears, shove it down hard and this disconnects the automotive type dry clutch to aid starting. They tend to never get used so yours may have sticking linkage/throwout shaft issues or maybe I'm steering you up a blind alley, don't know.
It's been 15 years, My memory is vague. Does it have a two stage clutch? I don't think it does. Mine leaked profusely, I tried to drive it 11 miles home after buying it, I didn't make it. Thankfully, a friend who happened to sell hydraulic oil came along 1 minute later. I poured 10 gallons of new oil, it drove fine. I expect you have issues with either the pick up screen, or low oil level if it stops moving. What I do remember is that the reverser involves a clutch, and a brake both requiring hydraulic pressure. My problem was made worse by the act of John Deere closing most of its dealerships, and centralizing. VT has two dealers now. The closest is 80 miles away from me in another state. They are complicated hydraulic systems. It would come as no surprise if no factory trained mechanics are left familiar with the 410. Willie
Just looked it up in the online parts book, if it's a straight 410, it does have the dual clutch setup. One thing I forgot though is the clutch pedal actually has a stop on it you have to flip up so the pedal can go all the way to the floor actuating the disconnect clutch. Yes, the pickup screen is a must check, they tend to get clogged up with brake friction material and stuff from the clutches, as well as any bits of cylinder packing or o-rings that get past the filters.
Yes there is a dry clutch On later models and replacement valve bodies the clutch (hydraulic actuated clutch) has to be cycled at least one time for the traney pump to build pressure. This is a safety feature due to the bad neutral safety switch connections and people getting run-over aft doing the screwdriver jump start. If that dosnt help there is a traneypump reliefe valve on the side just above the filter.
I am ready to throw in the towel. I think the problem has to be linkage or a sticking valve. It will work fine then just quit. No drive no hydro. Occasionally it will lose hydro but still drive...its all over the board and I cant find any help with it...ugh
Where you at?
I'm new to this and not great on computer's. Can someone help with location of the destroker on hydraulic pump. Hydraulics are dead on my John Deere 410c. Drives fine forward and reverse.
I had a 310 years ago. Worked fine until the hyd. oil warmed up then the hydraulics got "lazy". You couldn't lift the boom with a full bucket. As soon as it cooled down it was fine. I looked at everything, complex hyd. sys. and found the solenoid on the main pump under the rad. At this point I was ready to replace the main pump. (was $8000 then). Took the solenoid valve out, O ring on it was bad so I replaced it and tried it. That was my problem, a 10 cent O ring.