Been looking everywhere and I can't find any information on how to replace the bushing for the side to side boom? The front two are easy, lots of room but the back two, I don't know? Anyone replaced these themselves or know someone who has or have any insight on how to get in there? Would I be looking at getting all 4 pins out and pulling the whole boom assembly out from under the cab? Or is it something that can be done with it still in place?
I can take look in the service manual. If you would like it what's your email address?
PM'd you my email address. Thanks.
Did TB180FR. Not much fun. The damned slewing arm cylinder barrel end pin can't be removed from the arm while arm is attached, and arm won't slide out without being rolled 90°, at least on a TB180FR.
I think I'd rather work on the other end of my TB53FR.
Yea it sure doesn't look fun, I guess one benefit is the 153 is a fair bit smaller so at least everything is a bit lighter. So you just moved the arms out a bit to replace bushings? How did you get the old ones out? Pull out the top? I don't think there's any place to push them out the bottom. I guess you could remove the boom from the side to side portion then you could pull those arms out, but man that's a lot of work. I think the biggest concern i'd have is disconnecting all those lines and potentially having to replace some since they've likely never been apart. 153 looks a bit different from yours in the pictures but I don't think much. Is the counterweight easy to remove? I want to do some work on the battery with grounding and would be so much easier with the counterweight off.
Take stick (arm) off of boom. Take boom off of swing frame. Take swing frame off of slewing arms. Tilt cab forward. Remove main hydraulic control valve hoses, and/or assy so that rear slewing arm pin can be lifted out on tank side. Pull that slewing arm forward 8 inches or so, then toward cab, under frame opening, then roll arm 90° and remove. Repeat process on other arm.
Counterweight is just handful of bolts. Used nylon strap on each end with crane. You can see where I cut material so oil level could be checked easier, as well as making oil changes easier.
Is there a reason to separate boom and stick versus just removing them together? Figure less hose connections to disturb if it's possible.
For field disassembly, it was easier for me to rig. On that TB180FR I pictured, it wasn't so much the bushings making it sloppy. Most of my slop came from the chassis holes being egged. The one by the hydro tank actually broke its retainer and fell halfway down. If you haven't adjusted the vertical clearance in all four pins, maybe try that before going after major disassembly. 4 allen set bolts and nut per thrust bearing on each pin. I've got an 8500 hour TB53FR and just lessening the vertical clearance made a huge difference. The worst bushings on that TB180FR were in the figure 8 link at the bottom of the boom cylinder.
That is good advice, it was like 3 years ago one of the front pins slid down as the retainer broke. I just put it back in place and never thought about it again. There isn't really that much play, but it's gotten worse over the last year or so. I think some of the play might be on the boom pins too. Compared to how much play I had in my bucket pins and there was still bushing left, there is still a lot of bushing left in all of them for sure.
Finally got around to this, got the boom/stick removed no problem but having an issue with the rear pins. The one on the left side by the fuel tank I got it to drop about 3/4" and then it stopped, tried everything and it's no longer going up or down. Am I wrong that the pin should come out the bottom? The front two did. The other rear pin, I can't get the 2 allan head threads to budge, broke off one attachment already, easily putting 200 ft/lbs on it. On all 3 other pins they came off really easy, is something different with this one? Of course it's the worst one to access. I'm thinking if I can't get one of them to budge, my options are to cut the metal shin so I can remove it or try to cut one of the allen heads off enough to slip the shim out ontop. Or maybe put a nut back on one and try welding it ontop the allen head and using that to get it off. What I don't know is, is the placement of the metal shim important? If I damage threads on one stud can I simply attach it to another and turn the pin a quarter turn? The last issue assuming both rear pins go down 1 is going to hit the track frame as is. Obviously with lines disconnected I can't start the machine. Is is easy to access the line for the swing motor to disconnect so I can manually turn it? Or would buying plugs for all the lines be a better option?
The rear pin on the hydraulic tank side has to come out the top. The grease well for the slew bearing is in the way to go downward. You'll have to reach under and see if the pin under the cab has an outlet underneath. I know I pulled it up also. For the stuck allen studs, I heated the stuck ones and turned them in slightly before winding the out. Like yours, some came out real easy, and others were SOBs.
My concern with heat is it's right beside so much stuff so I can't really do much without risking damage to other stuff. It looks like the pin beside the hydraulic tank likely has to go up I didn't look really close but I didn't see a slot for it to drop from. I'm guessing you meant hydraulic tank, not fuel tank one? I guess if it has to go up, couldn't I leave the allen studs in and just pull the pin up with the shim still in? But the one beside the fuel tank/cab door I don't see any reason it shouldn't go down? But if it can go up maybe that's my best bet.
Well finally done, I thought tearing it apart was going to be the worst part and it would go back together easy but every part of this repair was a fight. I got it back together, except I have these two brackets left I messed where they go, can anyone help me out with that? I know the big one bolts to the right arm I believe but can't remember where. No play in the arms is sure nice but I was shocked how little play there actually was in the bushings. It seemed like the arms moved a lot with it together, but with it tore apart, I wouldn't have hesitated to put another 2000 hours on them considering how little play there was after nearly 4500 hours.
Ain't the big one the one that the offset switches roll over on the right arm? And the little one braces the counterweight? BTW, the photograph quality sucks
Yep that would be it for the big one for sure, I really can't remember but I will check for that bracket and see if it's there.