I have been looking at some pics of the Cummins 4cyl as a replacement for a G207D. How is the equip & steering pump connected to a regular Cummins 4cyl that was not a 580SE engine? Is there a special coupler that is install on the crank when the pulley is removed?
I fitted a 4-390 to a 580C about _ _ yrs ago ( don't even what to think about that) As I recall a fitting kit was used - which is probably no longer available as it was very expensive back then & I hate to think what it would be worth now. It included a new hyd. pump (tandem) & a steering priority valve & plumbing to connect it all together. Basically, you converted a 580C hyd system to an E. Hyd pumps mount the same - on to front eng mount cradle. (no steer pump of course) There is an adapter between the crank pulley & the pump coupling - you will probably need a cradle of an E FYI - rear eng mounts needed to be altered - exhaust is on opposite side, bonnet needed alteration - Not 100% - I think radiator was also replaced NB I've noticed your looking for turbo D parts on another thread. 580C & D have completely different hyd systems - if your thinking of converting a 580D - the hyd pump & steering priority valve are already in place. Be specific about info you require & you'll get proper advise
Thank you for the help. I looked into the parts to convert the 580D to a Cummins engine and the cost is too much like you said it might be. I have a 580D that I am looking for parts. It has the turbo 207D and the pump is a single unit with two outlets. One is for the equipment and the other is for the steering. The engine has one bad piston. Everything else looks perfect as the machine has low hours. So I am looking for 580C / 580D turbo pistons. I will probably end up buying them new because they seem hard to find used and in good shape. I believe the 580C had an equip. pump and a steering pump where as the 580D has just one pump that does both. EDIT: Is there a place online/web to get Case Power Tan gallons (580D paint)?
I would fix your 207 if at all possible. Aftermarket parts are cheap to buy for these engines and sometimes it's not much more money just to buy the engine kit. Check your liner wear, if the ledge is noticeable it's best to replace the liner(s), rather than removing the ridge and honing. Very little tolerance for wear in the specs. New piston rings often don't seal well on used liners, and good compression on these engines is important. Phil
Fixing the 207DT is the current plan after looking at the repower cost. I will probably end up getting an engine kit and the turbo pistons. I will save the NA pistons that come with the engine kit. I can't find a kit that includes the turbo pistons so I will have to buy the NA kit and get the pistons from Case. A few have scuffed walls so I will replace all of them. They aren't cheap though. About $200 each. The liners have no ridge at all. Some do have aluminum deposits on them from the pistons. I was told that the liners could be cleaned up with some acid to get the aluminum off of them. If it wasn't for the aluminum on them they look perfect.
A stone hone may remove the aluminum too if there are only traces of it. You must have a very low hour engine. I would make sure you know the cause of the piston scuffing and address it. Phil
The turbo has a manufacturer reman. which made me wonder. All of the bearings are STD size. The mechanic and I were talking about it trying to find the cause of the piston meltdown. The rear most piston got it the worst. The front most piston looks like brand new. The rear two pistons have scruffing. The three things I could think of is: 1) water pump fail / low water 2) running it off either for some reason 3) maybe injector/pump problem. I think it was due to a water / overheat problem. All of the journals have zero scratches on them and the bearings look good. I figured the bad piston hole bearings might be bad, but they look great. The clock reads 4K hours. Wouldn't there be a ridge on the liners at this many hours?
207's use a chrome moly sleeve - even if dusted - rarlely seen a ridge
Use muriatic acid, it will eat aluminum, etch masonry etc. It can be bought at Home depot. Or a rigid hone if you have access to one.
Thank you for the replies. We used the acid and removed the alum. so I could get the pistons out. I am questioning using the liners though. Since they are wet sleeves there is an o-ring in there that may have been over heated. I am thinking it is best to install new liners and o-rings. In this case I would get the complete NA kit with sleeves and not use the NA pistons. It will cost about $300 more but I think it might be worth it. Any thoughts on re-using the existing sleeves or installing new Clevite sleeves? Are the Clevite liners as good as the Case OEM liners? EDIT: I have thought about just getting NA rods and injection pump and going with the complete NA kit installed, but hate to have the turbo setup sitting around. How much HP does the turbo add? Anyone know what the peak boost setting is?
Fix the 207!
My thoughts are to replace the liners. There's a few pictures on this thread: New liners make it easier to break in piston rings. Also you will be replacing the liner o-rings which have been known to leak coolant in the engine oil. I would keep your engine original with the turbo. You don't need to flog it up a long hill and stress everything with boost pressure. Drive it reasonable, these engines have lots of power even in the NA version. Re the scuffed pistons. I would check the for 1.correct timing, 2.cooling, 3.lubrication of the pistons, 4.proper injection, and 5.proper engine oil. 1. do your timing check using the timing window in your injection pump 2. replace your thermostat, verify accuracy of your temp gauge, check the water pump for a loose impeller, check the rad core for good flow. 3.check for proper cooling of the pistons using the engine oil. 4.have your 4 injectors tested for proper spray pattern and cracking pressure. 5. use good diesel oil and make sure no coolant is leaking into the engine oil. Coolant will scuff pistons. I would have your cylinder head checked for being flat, and for cracks, replace the frost plugs also. Inspect the top of the old liners for sealing, or the old head gasket. It should be shiny around the critical seal area. Install an oil pressure gauge temporarily to check engine oil pressure. Phil
Thank you for the help. I have everything almost all apart now. Something came up. I can get a Cummins 4BT turbo for $1000 that has under 10K miles on it. What do you think........rebuild the 207D turbo or install the Cummins? I will need 3 turbo pistons, liners, etc. I figure about $2000 into the G207D turbo. Will the parts for the 580SE cummins bolt right up to the flywheel and front pump area using the 4BT?
It still looks like fixing the 207D turbo is this the best route. The repower looks like it will need a trans housing ($350), engine housing ($750), front engine mount ($400), and some other stuff. The engine alone is $1000. I think I will stick with the 20D turbo. Anyone know a place on the web that lists all of the exact parts needed to do the Cummins re-power?
If you eliminated the turbo on that 207 you most likely would have to replace the camshaft. I think the lobe profile is completely different between turbo charged and non turbo-charged. The Case-CNH parts website lists two different camshafts for that engine. I may be wrong , someone can correct me if I am.
I wish I had that Cummins engine for $1K. Phil