What's the quickest or easiest way to disconnect it, it drives me nuts!
Most guys just remove the switch from the RH side and tape the switch closed. Seem them just tie wrapped to the hoses taped closed. If you want to you could remove the wires and connect them together.
If the wires are disconnected will the lever still lock in to the curl position? This made me nuts on the Super L but it wasnt that bad. The M I run locks in to easy.
Sorry I screwed up my first post I was in a hurry..... here is the correction. The switch is just providing a ground for the circuit. When the lever on the switch is not closed by the cam it provides a ground. When the cam pushes the lever towards the switch it breaks the ground. A normally closed switch. Some guys take the switch off and tape it closed. Or you can take either wire off the switch and tape it up. I am not sure but as a 3rd option you may also be able to pull the RTD fuse from the panel. I can't remember if anything else is on that circuit, pull the fuse and see if everything works except the RTD function.
graham, your confusing me. "When the lever on the switch is not closed by the cam it provides a ground. When the cam pushes the lever towards the switch it breaks the ground. A normally closed switch." Yes, that's sounds like a normally closed switch. So the circuit is normally made (to ground) unless you interupt it by pressing the button/switch. "Some guys take the switch off and tape it closed. Or you can take either wire off the switch and tape it up." Wait a minute...doesn't that "break" the circuit that is normally closed? I seem to be missing something here.
you could just disconnect the wires at the control valve
I never disconnected one before and dont like to mess with any kind of electrical stuff. Ill try looking through the fuse board first. Thanks for the help.
ATCO: The switch for the return to dig only work when the bucket is in the dump position. So if the bucket is dumped all the way over the lever on the switch is not touching the cam. In this position it provides a ground to the circuit activating the magnetic detent. When you pull the loader control to the far left and hold it for a second the magnet holds the spool and the bucket starts curling back. When the bucket is level with the ground the cam hits the lever on the switch breaking the ground therefore releasing the spool to neutral. There are several ways to disable it, 1 is to tape the switch closed thus breaking the ground and disabling the function. #2 is removing a wire and taping it...also breaks ground. #3 pull the fuse which I am sure is on it's own circuit. Or as ALRMAN said unplug it from the valve under the machine. I stayed away from that thinking if he had ride control he may find too many connections and be unsure which one is RTD. Hope that clears it up......
Ahh yes, now I see. Thanks :notworthy
ATCO: If I wasn't in such a hurry the first post would have been correct. Instead I had to post a second time. Then I decided to try and explain the switch in a shall we say a non mechanical way. If I just stated it was a normally closed switch that broke the ground connection I'm sure there would be further questions. But to a mechanic the description of closing the lever by the cam etc must have sounded a bit odd. You are certainly worthy.....I've seen your posts and you know your stuff. :beerchug And Happy Canada Day to everyone including our neighbours to the south :canada
I didnt get any time today to mess with the return to dig. The machine does have ride control but Im gonna look for the fuse and pull that first. Another question for you, have you seen any other M series machines with common leak problems on the valve bank for the backhoe. The machine is in severe need of a power washing and theres a bad leak some were on the bank and I can't pin point it yet until it gets cleaned. If theres any specific area to look at until I get it cleaned that would be good to know? Thanks again!
I have a 580M also and the return to dig is set to light , I will have to look at it. If the bucket is dumped down with a chain on it to lift something, it is almost impossible to curl the bucket up easily without it taking off by it self and returning all the way to the dig position. Kind of ticks me off!
Yeah Gill--sometimes ya gotta 'splain things to me like I'm a 6 yr old. :lmao
I've seen plenty of boom & couple of swing sections leak because of cracks between the sections. Get someone to pressurize all circuits & watch for where the oil comes from. The only way to fix, if this is the problem is to remove the entire valve / strip / crack detect suspect sections & then replace the section
I'm with ALRMAN on this one. I've seen the exact same thing. Mostly boom trouble here but have seen the odd swing section. We have seen then where they have no been machined particularily well. Amazing they didn't leak right from new but usually around 3000 + hours before they showed. We sent them to the local machine shop and have a few thousands taken off and resurfaced properly.
I dont own the machine but treat it like I do. Boss is good to me and the machine makes my paycheck. I'm hoping for a loose fitting but the leak is pretty bad. Both swing pistons are covered with oil dripping from above. It needs a good cleaning, stabilizer piston and loader piston need to be repacked. Along with the valve bank leaking. If the machine goes down the whole crew is down so I wanna do somethan before it gets worse. DigDug, I know what you mean. Like I said the SL wasnt as bad but this M catches real easy. Have be careful especially lifting something like road plates. Ive had it catch on me once or twice and jerk the plate. Part of the reason I want to disconect it. I dont like the machine having a "mind of its own" you could say.
Graham, Im right around 3400 hours. I had a friend who had alot of problems with the loader valve bank on his SM. So chances are you would think it is something to do with the actual block itself?
Here's some I prepared earlier - these are just some I've kept, they cost so much I just can't bring myself to throw them away! First 4 from left are loader lift; then 3 x BH boom & 1 x swing
JS: I'd say 75% of the time we have been able to get the valves machined, most failures were poor machining on the O ring grooves and milling marks on the valve surface. They are not that bad to pull out of the machine. Raise all back windows to the top, remove the backhoe controls, remove all hoses from valve. Use a 1/4" x about 5" bolt put the bolt straight through both stabilizer spools. Now you can use a cherry picker and a lifting strap under the bolt between the spools. I have made myself a special tool to remove Case backhoe/Loader valves. I saved an old circuit relief, removed the adjusting screw and threaded in a 1/4' lifting eye. Just take the plug out of the stabilizer section or loader section and screw this in. Hook on the a cherry picker.
On the subject of the RTD function...just to clarify something. If you put your loader arms right down and curl your bucket does the loader lever stick over in the curl position?
I think fixing the leak will have to wait if it involves taking the whole bank out. Only 1 machine and cant have it down right now unless absolutly needs to be. No, it doesnt "stick",only locks in if I curl the lever to far. RTD to dig really doesnt do me any favors. Nice to have loading trucks, but I wouldnt miss it one bit.
Does this mean you use it on very certain occasions (like loading trucks), but most of the time it's "I wish this #%&* thing would quit doing that!!!" :Banghead If that's the case, why don't we access the wiring to the switch somewhere and install a toggle switch, maybe on the dash or something, so you can turn off that annoying magnet to perform most of your work, but you can turn it on for the rare occasions it's useful. Just a thought. gggraham, I think I understand how this thing works now. Thanks Gil.
Its a nice thought but not useful enough, I wouldnt miss it at all. It never lines up right either on any case Ive run. Always curls a little to far past the rabbit ears.
Well, it appears there's a general consensus that Case has this function flubbed up from it's very inception!
This function works great when you set it up. The switch is on a slider and you can adjust the kick out position of the bucket. So you can have the lip tipped towards the ground, perfectly level or slightly curled. However if your anti roll back is not adjusted properly this can cause the bucket to curl back out of control and stick in the curl position. A lot of people confuse this with the RTD function not working properly. Thats why I asked it it stuck in the curl position.