So new to the forum! I just picked up a tired 301.8 and am hoping to revive it and put it to work around the property. it has a fresh motor and runs strong, but all the bushings in the stick and bucket are pretty much shot, and it needs some cosmetic love to. Having a hard time finding service manuals, diagrams and the maintenance manuals though. Does anyone know where they can be found for cheap? I could understand paying big dollars if I was running a business fixing these, but I am on a tight budget and was hoping to do the work myself and cant stomach $700 for a manual, would rather put it into parts... Already got all new bushings and pins coming in for the bucket linkage. Whats the recommend oil for the hydraulic system and engine in these units? Im heading to the CAT dealer tomorrow and am wondering if I should pay the CAT premium on their oil, or if something else is just as good and can be found for way cheaper... thanks in advance! Paul
Answering your last question first - don't waste your money buying Cat oil. Buy the equivalent from one of the major oil company brands, it'll be half the price and just as good. One of those companies probably made it for Cat in the first place. Engine will be 15W/40 or 10W/30 if it's cold where you are. Hydraulic oil will be 10W. Service Manuals is always a difficult one. Paper manuals are expensive but a subscription to the online manuals even more so. The only hope is to keep trawling all the online sellers and see if a paper one comes up somewhere. Just make sure it suits your particular Serial Number. Even so you would probably be looking at $200+.
Thanks Nige, Ive been trolling various supplier sites and down loading all the parts breakdowns I can find, so far thats helped with general location of parts etc regarding oil, this machine is sn BFA01712, is there any thing special need for the hydraulic oil for it? some of the oils I have seem to say things like: " Not suitable for equipment requiring one lubricant for the transmission, final drive, wet brakes and hydraulic system" specifically thats from Shell Tellus S2V all season 46 Hydraulic fluid which is $100CAD for a 5 gallon pail and from all the reading I have done so far guys seem to say excavators are more picky than most other equipment about their oil. for the engine I am just going run Rotella T since its treated me well in all my other gear.
The Shell Tellus should do the job, although it's a bit heavier viscosity-wise (7.9cSt va 6.6) than a 10W. The Tellus seems to meet all the industry/manufacturer standards common for anti-wear hydraulic oils such as Vickers M-2950-S, DIN 51524 HLP, Denison HF-0, & ISO 11158. If you could get an oil from the same range that is ISO 32 rather than 46 it would probably be a little closer to the OEM specification. Engine oil-wise you could even go from a 10W-30 down to a 5W30 if your ambient temps go below -15C.
I can get a deal on 5L jugs of Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic, would that be to light for temps from -5 to +30C ??? I picked up 2 buckets of the Tellus in an ISO32, whats the best way to flush out the old oil from the system or is it simply drain the tank and refill?
5W40 is listed as covering a temp range from -30 to +50 so you're good on that. On a machine as small as a 301.8 it would be easy enough to drain pretty much all the oil from the cylinders in addition to draining the tank.
I need some help in confirming part numbers for the 2 bucket pins for my 301.8 I called the Cat Dealer and the parts guy looked it up and ordered me in 2 of the 2299247 for the stick to bucket and linkage to bucket pins, the problem is these pins have no grease fittings on them to be able to grease the bushings, they also got me part # 2299246 for the linkage pins, these ones seem correct as they have grease fittings but the part# I thought they should be is 1394270. On a different parts breakdown I found on the web it shows that the 2 pins should be 2375090 some help would be greatly appreciated in confirming what is the correct part so I can return the ones they got me and get the right ones. Thanks Paul
There are 2 different Part Numbers of pins for the bucket linkage on BFA01712 - 139-4270 & 237-5090. Both numbers appear to have grease fittings in the end of them. 139-4270 is used for the bucket cylinder-to-bucket link pin & the stick-to-banana link pin. 237-5090 is used for the stick-to-bucket and bucket-link-to-bucket pins. Both the above numbers are still available and are not shown as servicing to other numbers. Your dealer guy has read his parts wrong. 229-9247 is part of a 154-2672 bucket linkage group (Type 2) that was not introduced until 2004, your machine is 2002. For your machine he needs to be looking at 154-2672 Type 1 Group that contains the 237-5090 Pin. Regarding 229-9246 this is part of the 226-2765 bucket linkage group for machines S/N BFA02883-Up. Again too new for your machine.
Thanks Nige! Greatly appreciate the checking! could you also check the part number for the linkage assembly 1493131 vs 2362423, I think I need the 1493131 part for my machine but the parts guy came up with the other number. I took his word for it as I was going off an old parts list off the interwebs and he was using the CAT system. Irony is I gave him all the part numbers I thought I needed, and he came back with a list of different parts... now I am questioning the bushings he ordered me which are pn 2706550 thanks again for the help!
I've seen quite often where CAT will obsolete many of the "Type 1" parts and if you need a link say, you have to buy the "Type 2" version and also the other parts to make it fit your machine. Gives the parts guys fits because CAT didn't have the decency to state a serial number break usually and you never know if a machine has been updated or not. I remember one instance where a small dozer could have had any one of three different fan belts due to different belt,pulley,idler arrangements. Sent the poor owner all three belts with instructions to return the two that didn't fit. None of them did, he ended up at NAPA. Type unobtanium.
I'll give your parts guy one thing. He's wrong, but at least he's consistently wrong .......... 149-3131 Link Assembly is the correct one for your machine. It is part of the 151-8474 Linkage Group that fits machines S/N BFA1-2882. 236-2423 Link Assembly is part of the 226-2765 Linkage Group that fits machines S/N BFA2883-Up. More bad news ......... 270-6550 is a bush but it doesn't appear to fit any series of 301.8 that I can see. Ask him to tell you what Group Part Number he found it on.
Ok hopefully one last thing to hound you guys with, they are getting me the right pins now, but for the linkage they have ordered part number 2120217, I think that is just the linkage without the bearings and the one I need is 1493131. Can anyone confirm if 2120217 actually contains the bearings as a complete assembly? Also regarding the bushings they said that the part 270-6550 fits all the machines in the 301.8 range... I wish I could just get access to the SIS site to look at the parts list and diagrams, but I am still waiting on my access to be approved.
149-3131 is a complete Link Assembly with bushings installed and is the correct one for your machine, it is part of 151-8474 Linkage Group. However the assembly Part Number has been cancelled and is now replaced by the following parts: - 1 x 212-0217 Link 2 x 270-6550 Bush (first time I've come across this number anywhere. I was beginning to wonder about it) 2 x 270-6551 Bush So according to what I can see you are getting the most up to date parts and they will fit your machine. I suggest that you double check with them to make sure that if they order 1 x 149-3131 then they will actually receive 5 pieces. I'm of the opinion that if they don't order the bushes separately then all you will get is a Link.
well, I suspect I am going to get a linkage with no bushings... even after talking to a different parts guy he still claims the 2120217 includes the bushing. Should be able to pick it up tomorrow so we will see what comes of it. for the 270-6550 bushings, they also have me putting the same bushings into both the bucket and linkage positions on the stick, they look same as the ones I took out, minus the beat to crap effect... one question regarding the installation, they have 2 different tapers\bevels cut into the outside edges, one is just a small bevel to take the edge off, the other is a more pronounced one I think the larger bevel goes on the inside but can some one confirm if they access to an assembly guide. Thanks again for all the help Paul
Every piece of information I have access to indicates that 212-0217 does NOT contain the bushes. If it arrives bush-less then the best thing to do is throw it back at the Parts people and tell them you want one with bushes in it (in the same state as 149-3131 in other words) and how they achieve that is up to them........ To get bushes in the best way is to freeze them and have them fall in rather than beat the bejasus out of them. A question - does your local gas company supply liquid nitrogen...? Large bevel on the bush goes to the inside but honestly if you get them frozen right they literally just slide in.
not sure how easy i can get liquid nitrogen, but I have a deep freezer that goes to about -40*C, so I will give that a try. as for the parts people, its frustrating how it works with the local dealer, you have to phone in to a service center in another city they look up the parts and place the order in the system, then you go into the local parts depot and get the parts, the guys in the depot dont have a clue, they just match numbers on an order sheet to numbers on boxes and give them to you... the bigger **** off is they bill you for the parts upfront, then if its wrong you have to wait for them to process the return paperwork (5+days) before you get your money back, mean while they charge you again for the correct parts...
-40 won't really cut it. You need the extra freeze (around -200C) that LN can give you. Usually the industrial gas companies are the ones who supply it. They also generally rent out cryoflasks by the day as well. You could have 10 bushes all installed (and even better minus hammer rash....) in an hour or less using LN. Try this, as you can see you can even use a pretty standard Coleman cooler as an insulated container for the LN. For your size bushes it wouldn't need a very big one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89XEpoK5XJc
If you positively can't get LN, the next best thing is dry ice and kerosene. It's only -90F, but is way better than the freezer. Greyson
And always, always, always, wear insulated rubber gloves, lol.
Some of those Youtube videos make me cringe when I see how little precautions they are taking against being burned by the LN.
alright got LN took a lot of calling around, eventually found a small outfit that specialized in LN for clinics etc, hooked me up with a used 10L flask and filled it for $100! Picking up the rest of the parts this afternoon, so hopefully my next post isnt me ranting about how they screwed up the order for the 3rd time...
Don't be tempted to pull the bushes out of the LN too soon. When the LN stops boiling after immersing the bush in it the bush has reached the temperature of the LN and is not going to shrink any more. At that point you can pull it out.
here is what may be a stupid question, how do I make sure that I put the bushing the right distance in? there is a dust seal that has to fit out side it. the lower bore has a shoulder that the bushing go up to so thats easy but the upper one doesnt. also should I coat the bore with anything before putting the bushing in like anti-seize or grease? or will this just freeze in contact with the bushing and make my life difficult?
start the rant... no bushings in the link... another 3 days to get those in... need to get the machine working this weekend so will have to put the old link which is cracked and has worn bushings in and hope it doesnt destroy my new pins... might just put the old pins in i guess.
If the bush doesn't fit up to some type of stop in the link/arm/stick then you're into measuring to determine what needs to be the final position of the bush to get the seal in place. I suggest to do the upper ones first so you get the hang of the process then move to the lower ones afterwards. You could maybe use something like a block of wood installed from the other side of the bore to function as a stop for the bush once you have taken all the necessary measurements. Bores need to be clean and dry. Remember the the idea is to have the bush so small it just slides in and doesn't need lubrication. Put the old pins in for the time being. They were goofed before, working them a little isn't going to hurt them more than they're hurt already.
thanks Nige! onto the next question, the machine had a thumb hooked up to the aux hydraulics on the boom, I am putting together a new thumb for it, and need to get a new cylinder and lines, there is already a relief valve mounted, but the lines have just been capped off, could someone tell me the type and size of the fittings used, are they metric, SAE, ORB, JIC. I suspect that I will have a mix as far as the relief valve is fitted, so what is the best way to determine the type of fitting by looking at it? And just to confirm for the line routing the supply line that comes through the relief valve should go to the stick side(push) of the thumb cylinder right, this way when the bucket pushes on the thumb the relief will open and let thumb collapse back. I am going to hopefully get the bushings in tomorrow morning and be digging after that!
Hopefully the relief outlet is plumbed back to tank? You don't want the relief outlet to connect to the rod end of the cylinder, that's dangerous.
what I am assuming is the relief line goes all the way back to a port that appears to have been added to the hydraulic valve pack under the floor.
so my parts saga continues, just received my parts but now they sent me(and billed me:-()for 6 bushings... I got 2x 270-6550 and 2x270-6551 which I was expecting. And 2x 265-8713, which I have no clue as to what they are for... if some one could let me know where they go it would be great so I can decide if I need them or should just return them... Also one other question for the H link both sets of bushings look almost the same can someone tell me which ones go on the bucket side ( i think its 270-6550). Thanks! Paul
Aux hydraulics question about this machine, on the right side of the boom when seated on the machine, there are 2 aux hydraulic lines, which I believe are controlled by the left foot rocker pedal, then on the left side there is a large hydraulic line that is capped off and I dont know what its for. Cant seem to identify it in any of the literature I have either. I suspect that its a Hydraulic return line, but I am not sure.
That would be my guess as well, low restriction return for a hammer. Sharper minds will confirm or deny.
This is getting more than weird. 265-8713 is listed as a service replacement for 139-4520 which fits at the bucket end of the 149-3131 link. However 270-6551 is also listed as a replacement for the same 139-4520. Which one of the two you use is up to you. One pair needs to be returned because they don't fit anywhere else on the machine.
Is this what you have..? If so it's the 147-5254 Work Tool Lines Group. The large line on the LH side is a return.
thanks again Nige Lantraxco! so that bushing 2658713 doesnt even fit anywhere in the bucket linkages, its actually for a different size pin, looks like a 35mm one. as for the other 2 bushings, it is pretty obvious now which goes where, so I am good there. regarding the hydraulic lines, i have exactly what you have pictured above Nige, currently the open and close for the thumb are plumbed into the right side fittings, with the relief valve on the close line, but then they ran the relief all the way back to a port on the valve stack that I think just T's into the return to the filter. its a bit mickey mouse, as they have just zip tied the hose along the boom then jump across the boom swing under the floor then above the floor etc, anyway its an amature job at best. My thought is to connect the relief valve return to the left side line on the boom.
can anyone confirm the correct oil to use in the final drives on a 301.8? I think its a 85w-140 Gear lube, but not sure if it should be a TO-4 and direction would be appreciated!
Gear oil is what the book says. I'd use 75W90 or 80W90 for your location. TBH I'm not a fan of EP oils and would use TO-4 SAE50 if it was mine. Capacity is only 0.5 litre between the two final drives.