Hi All, looking for a bit of advice on how to get the lower stick to bucket pin bushings out on a 301.8 I got the stick to bucket linkage bushing out without much issue using a industrial ball joint press and a small slug of flat bar slipped it in from one side against the inside of one bushing and just pushed it out with the press, took all of 30min to do both. then I got to the lower bushings and it seems as though the bushing is seated against a shoulder and there isnt enough exposed to push it out the same way. Is there some sort of trick to getting them out? at this point I am almost ready to resort to a carbide cutter in a die grinder and just cut then out, but I dont want to damage the bore in the process. also when I ordered my replacement bushings the parts guy didnt say anything about a seal on these, but when I took out the top 2 there is what looks like a metal seal of some sort. The parts drawing I have doesnt show anything there so wondering if someone with access to the specs could help me out. machine SN is BFA01712 Thanks! Paul
Howdy, if you have access to a stick welder or mig, run a bead around the "inside" of the bush and they will nearly fall out most times, thats what I have done in the past to remove outer bearing cases and bushes that are pressed or stuck in situ. Hope this helps. Diga.
I'm not familiar with your machine, but usually there will be a dust seal on each end of the pins, the lip goes out to keep dirt out and let grease flow out to carry away contaminants from the bushings should any intrude. Easiest way to remove bushings like that is heat, either a torch or a welder, stick is easiest. If you have a torch, welding tip is best but cutting torch works also, just heat a line from the outside edge to the inside edge, back and forth until it's red, same thing again halfway round, then let it cool, you can throw some water on if you like to aid cooling, the bushing will shrink and some just about fall out. I like to weld a couple lines end to end or take the wire feed around the circle one good pass, any way you do it, you want a concentration of heat in the bushing and when it cools it will be smaller on the OD and looser in the bore. Try not to weld or cut on the stick metal, lol.
Thanks guys, so had some success, only had a pathetic torch to work with but in the end it got enough heat into them to shrink them, a few wacks with a drift and a big thumb detector and they moved far enough out that I could get my ball joint press set-up in behind them and pop them out with a few turns of a ratchet. so now the next question to anyone that has either done the bushings on one of these or has access to the manual to look at it for me; on the bucket pin in the bore in the end of the stick there appears to be a piece pressed into the middle (kind of looks like a narrow bushing) and the bushings are pressed up against it, is this piece supposed to be there? the other bore for the linkage pin didnt have anything in it. Also if anyone with access to the SIS diagrams and breakdowns for one of these machines could tell me if there is any kind of seal that is supposed to outside the bushings. so I can call and get it ordered for monday.
Well done! I've seen spacers between the bushings, or just shoulders machined into the stick. Never seen the spacer pressed in, usually just floats in there, gives you something to press the bushings up against if it has one. Again, I don't know about this particular machine.
can anyone advise supplier of bushings / bolts for a reasonable price for the CAT 301.8 ? My machine is getting more and more " loose " everywhere, and since it still is a good working machine, i am thinking of doing an overhaul..
Cheapest place I have found is actually based in the UK, so the shipping to Norway would probably be a bit more reasonable that it was to me in Canada. No affiliation to these guys, and hope I dont get in trouble for posting the link: http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/bucket...illar-301-series-mini-diggers-excavators.html if shipping was reasonable enough and I could get them quick enough I would have gone this route for the complete set instead of what I paid Cat for the parts...