My 580CK turns over but doesn't start. I can get it to start on ether but then it dies from lack of fuel. The tank is full, water drained, filters replaced and bled. I have tried loosening the lines at the injectors, but no diesel sprays out - just a little fuel dribbles out. I also tried cracking the return line to no avail. I assume the pump is shot because I opened the top cover and noticed black stuff (seal material?) inside. The shutoff linkage appear to be normal and not binding. I filled the pump up overnight with carb cleaner and later seafoam, drained, bled, and refilled with diesel, but that didn't help either. Reman pump prices are $725-1100+, and I see seal kits for this pump starting at $30. What does the big difference in price get me - I would think the reman pump will also replace any hard parts like the pistons? Is the seal replacement an easy fix that will address my problem or do I need a new pump? Is there a brand of reman pumps that is considered better quality?
Send a private message to thepumpguysc. He can tell you what to do and what it will cost. As far as I know, a reman pump is a rebuilt that's sold by a dealer... A seal replacement, along with anything else it might need (flex ring upgrade?) will be good for another few decades.
Definitely check with 'thepumpguy' on this forum before you commit to anything!!! you'll be a lot more informed and happier Maybe he'll see this thread and chime in...
@thepumpguysc your wisdom is needed.
Thanks guys..I'll send a Pvt. Msg..
But do let us know how it shakes out. After all...inquiring minds want to know.
I just re-read the orig. post.. The "black stuff" is broken "flex ring" material.. it ends up clogging the return circuit, not letting the fuel to flow freely back to the tank. There is usually a connector ON TOP of the pump{depending on the model} that has a check ball & spring in it.. IF that gets clogged the fuel cant flow.. Try starting the machine WITHOUT the connector.. the fuel IS GONNA flow out so be prepared for that.. If it starts, screw the connector back in WITH THE MACHINE RUNNING & see what happens.. IF it shuts down..?? u know that the problem is a clogged connector.. IF it stays running.. hook up the return line.. if it shuts down, u know the prob. is a clogged return line back to the fuel tank.. A GOOD blast of air will usually take care of THAT.. IF it now starts & runs for a few minutes & then shuts down..?? the flex ring has deteriorated to the point of a pump overhaul.. Just remember>> the longer u wait, the more flex ring material is going back to the fuel tank.. & if u wait TO LONG, the pump starts banging metal to metal & bad things WILL HAPPEN..
I forgot to mention that I looked at and cleaned the inlet screen. I also looked for but wasn't able to find the check valve. Looks like the previous owner already removed it. The engine still just turns over but doesn't catch.
Did you remove the CONNECTOR from the top of the injection pump? the check valve is in the fitting that screws into the pump, unscrew the return line, and everything under it until you have the hole in the injection pump body, and then try to start it.
Can you post up some pictures??? pics are worth a lot of words and can show issues that may be otherwise hidden
Earlier, I removed the 90* elbow connector and there was no ball inside. I looked at the the pump and there was no ball either. I'll try checking again and starting it and will post some photos. it might be a while because I'm a bit tied up and also rain is in the forecast. The tractor is sitting outdoors.
Depending on the pump mdl. it may or may not have one.. it sounds like all it has is a fitting?? If its just a 90* & no check ball, just try starting it WITHOUT the line attached.. just incase the return line is clogged.