I can't believe my idea for installing the rotary swing cylinder actually worked. :idea The hardest part was figuring out how to pick it up vertical. I tried to hammer on a wrench to loosen one the cap bolts but with no way to hold the thing it wasn't budging. I put a choker strap around it and got it semi vertical but it was tilted, so then I took a tie down strap from the chain on the engine hoist to the ear for the brace and got it to lift real close to vertical. I bought a couple lengths of readi-rod and cut them in half to give me 4 18" line up studs. I threaded these into the mounting holes for the cylinder. Once I got the rotary cylinder started on the studs, I could take the hoist right off. I was able to push the top then the bottom in and just turned the nuts to hold it in place. For about the last 6" I had to use a wrench on the nuts but they pulled it in easily. I just had to pry up very slightly to get the bottom locating dowel lined up. There were 2 locating dowels around 2 of the bolts. It took about 2 hours total but probably 40 minutes was spent trying to figure how to lift it without loosening the cap bolts. I was very pleased it went so smoothly. Not very often but sometimes I come up with a good idea. The problem I have now is starting the cat. I had to use 2 vehicles to boost it to get it started. The battery by itself showed 12.64 volts but would barely click. Even when boosting and letting it charge for a long time the volts came to 13.3 but barely turned it over. Finally got it going and it showed 14.9 volts so the alternator was charging. The ammeter showed it charging but after running for about 15 minutes the ammeter just stayed at zero. I noticed a leak so shut if off to fix the leak. The leak was just a loose fitting for one of the loader lines, easy fix. I went to start the cat and it was just dead again. I had 12.58 volts at the starter but it went down to about 2 .5 when the starter button was pushed. I had the battery checked last year and they said it had 1100 cranking amps. In the winter it started right up when boosted. The battery is old but could a bad battery show over 12 volts or does it sound more like the cables could be a problem? I've heard some people run a ground cable right to a starter bolt? I was boosting at the starter and the battery. I had the starter rebuilt less than 50 hours ago so I don't think it's the problem. Any advice is greatly appreciated. It's always something.:cussing
If you had 12.58V which fell to 2.5 when you hit the starter your battery is goosed.
While Nige is most likely correct, I feel it is also possible that there may be internal corrosion on the battery cables that could cause the same problem. I have seen the same signs before, and found that while the cables looked fine on the outside, there was an area, in my case where the cable had a dip in it, that the wires inside were corroded. It would test at system voltage under no load, but with load applied, the voltage would drop. If you can remove the cables and flex them over the entire length, there will be a weak spot where it is corroded if this is the problem. If you have a load tester you can check the battery at the terminal, and then test it at the end of the cables to see if you get a different result.
Jerry, I thought about that myself and went back to edit the post but I was out of time. Certainly it would pay to recheck all cables and connections before replacing the battery.
That's a 12 volt machine?
Yes 12 volt. I checked today and the battery was at 10.43 volts and dropped to about 2.5 when the starter switch was pushed. I got the same reading at the starter and directly off the battery. It didn't even click. I tried boosting it and let it charge for a while. I got it to actually turn the engine about 1 revolution and then just clicked. It had 13 volts at the starter and about 4.5 when the starter was engaged. The battery is old so I'm just going to replace it since the last time the problem was the starter so I had it rebuilt by a reputable shop. Pulling the battery out is sure a pain with the backhoe on. I made slots in the rear panel so it could be removed without having to disconnect the lines for the backhoe but the darn seat frame doesn't give enough room to get the battery out. It hangs over the back of main seat support about 1/2" too far so I had to remove the whole seat support and it's an awkward thing to deal with. I don't think it's the starter because boosting does help some. I've read a bad battery won't let boost. I think if the cables were bad, boosting would have no effect at all? if it is the starter again, I think I'm going to throw it at the place that rebuilt it... if I can get it out again. It's a real PIA. I did leave the loader arms up just in case.
Hello dave, if you have an old battery it ma be best to get to get a new one. I got one at Napa that was about 100 and my old battery. Also the cable ends are best to use with type that you use a press tool to lnstall. Also there is a ground on the Frame near and above the starter, on the backside . Good luck , sam.
The battery had 1100 cranking amps about a 1 1/2 years ago but I've had it 10 years and it was a reconditioned battery to boot! I paid $80 for it at the Battery Doctor and they still sell reconditioned 8D batteries for $80 and your old battery. I've had incredible luck with their reconditioned batteries. The one in my tractor is even older and starts up after sitting for months like it was just running. I have no complaints with the battery it's just a pain to replace. The starter is a nightmare! I hoping the battery finally died.