Rebuilt both bucket tilt cylinders on my jcb 1400b. After rebuild with new seals one sealed fine. The other leaked horribly from between the wiper and rod. I took it back apart and noticed the seal seat inside the gland nut was very rusty. Does anyone think this is the cause of the leak?
All seal seats should be smooth for a proper seal, I'd have to say that's your problem, right there.
The important parts are the seal against the rod (check for pitting and dings). And where the rod seals against the inside of the gland (outer seal surface). Sometimes that part is missed at cleanup and particles of anything will prevent the seal from seating. If you suspect rust, I take a drill or die grinder with a brass wire brush and go in and clean up as much as possible. But inspect it before you do so you can see what you have accomplished. Also it is not unusual to nick a seal while installing so look closely at that. If it leaks again, look closely at where the oil is coming from either around the rod or from the gland area. That way you know where to look.
thanks. yea you can see that the rust is on the inner diameter of the gland nut as well up to the point where the gland seal would be. it was leaking from between the wiper and rod. ill try to clean up the seat and wallls and see if it seals better.
I usually glass bead any seal carrier myself. Doesn't hurt anything and removes any corrosion or sealer/bedding.
Ok so I blasted the gland nut bore and there is significant pitting in the seal area. I then machined .005 off the seat but only polished the walls and this is what I got. The inner diameter has significant pitting on one side too, but I was afraid to take any material off that. Does anyone know if there is any kind of sealant that I could use on the gland seal to maybe help seal this up? One that would be tough enough to keep a seal here?
You can sleeve the outer seal mating surface but that doesn't always work with an interference fit. There is a lot of pressure held back. I would look to make a new gland or obtain a replacement. I had to do this on my Hyster as water intrusion destroyed the seal surface much the same as yours.
I think a Loctite product like a bearing retainer could work. Might have to use heat to remove the seal next time but that shouldn't be a big problem.
Goin to try to jb coat, emery polish smooth so that the pitting is filled. I'll let you know how I make out! Worth a try!
I noticed in your opining post that it leaked between the wiper and the rod. Wrong seal ? I have seen glands rusted like that. Very common on dipper cylinders on backhoes. The seal has in a puddle of water on it after it rains. Snow and ice is tough on them to. If you have a lathe why not weld it and recut it to OEM condition ? You have the other cylinder gland to take measurements off of.
Tinkerer you may be onto something. The new seal fits much more loose than the old.
That seal looks too big/too loose. It should kind of pop on. Some people warm the seals in hot water to make them a little easier to install.
If that is the wiper seal it is the wrong one. First one I have seen that doesn't have a steel shell. That yellow one looks to me like it could pop outa the gland as soon as the rod extended. Carefully measure both cylinder rod OD's. There is an outside chance that rod isn't the same as the one on the other side.
No that's the main gland seal sliding down there. The original you have to push it on the rod. I will measure the rods thanks.
In the video I thought you were comparing the old wiper seal to the new wiper seal. I thought it looked like the gland seal when I first saw it. Is the seal tight on the rod when it is in the gland ? I would bet it isn't. Be very careful as to which way the gland seal is installed. The wiper seal is just that. It cleans the rod, not there to hold pressure.
When inserted into the gland, new seal seems about as tight on the rod as the old seal is by itself. Old seal in the gland is much tighter. Both rods measured 40mm. Trying to contact the seal company to see if there's a problem.
One thing you could do to restore the glad is braze it up.take a cut first to clean it up then build it up with brass. Then you can size it right to the seals. Theres also a product call Belzona ,similar to JB weld that works very well and machines well buts very pricey,good thing is you dont get the heat input.Ive done these both ways with good success.
Im not even sure the corrosion was my problem anymore. I know its not good tho so im patching it anyway. spoke with the seal pack distributor. They are going to send me a replacement seal. He says they aren't always that tight on the rod until they are in the gland. I agreed but even in the gland it slips right on the rod with no effort. Doesn't seem right.
Epoxy seems like a lot of work. Loctite makes products to help hold bearings in. Why wouldn't something like that work to fill in slight imperfections?
Not that much work. I had some jb. The loctite would probably work too tho.
Gland seals need to be a tight fit on the rod after they are put in the gland. If the bore for the wiper seal was only polished there is a good chance it will hold the seal. You will know as soon as you set the seal on top of the bore if it gonna stay in place. I'm curious if the seals are generic no-name or a reliable brand like Bulldog or Hercules.
New seal in gland slips right on easy. Maybe 5 lbs of force. Old seal in gland needs to be pushed on hard.
whelp, I got the new seal. It fit a bit tighter than the other, but till nowhere near as tight as the original. Got it back together and no leaks yet just from cycling the bucket tilt several times. We'll see how it does with a load in the bucket.