I replaced the proximity switch, which didn't fix the problem. Dealer could not fix the problem. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. The flagger plate on the safety bar is steel. I find sometimes if I clean off the plate (remove dust, dirt, corrosion) it works. Should the plate be painted, or should I spray it with something? I don't use the machine a lot and it sits in a shed. Any ideas? There is a steel dust cover that covers the switch and plate, but I got tired of constantly removing it to clean the plate. What's the best distance the flagger plate should be from the switch?
Have you tried to move the bar closer to the switch when it is not working? Distance does matter. If something is loose or worn, the distance might be just on the edge of the switch making. It most likely be magnetic so paint and grease should not matter. Cam
I have it pretty close. I will try to move the switch closer. The bar can't be moved. I have tried many fixes over the year, Many times it seems to solve the issue only to occur again several months later. I don't think it's the switch going bad. Maybe bad connection somewhere in the wiring harness. Harness has been tested to be good though.
I no see brand, model, pictures, nothing.
What? you're not psychic? I can tell that he needs a jumper wire if he's been suffering for years with this issue.
I will take a picture today, and try and move it closer. I already have it about as close as I can get. When the safety bar goes down the flag plate rotates in closer. I will see if I can adjust it so it almost rubs it when the bar goes down. What does the jumper wire do?
Don't tell us brand and model, because there is zero chance the issue is something else...
Sorry all, got real busy. The brand is Takeuchi TL130. I have some time later today to get back to looking at it and grab some images. The problem has been going on an off for years. It does seem if I clean the flagger plate off with fine grit sand paper it begins to work again. Switch is #5 which is new. Wire harness is old. #25 can move it closer to the flagger plate which is part of the lap bar.
FYI, Here is the Harness layout
You're barking up the wrong tree. You need to resolder the board connections in both of the triple relays in the panel above where your feet are when operating the machine. You can replace one, but, I never figured out which one, and they'll both have cold solder joints. And, they're more than $70 apiece, and will fail just the same, albeit that it'll take a few years.
Oh, interesting. Not sure where you are talking about. Does this diagram help? Thanks.
Ok, forget that diagram, I found the right one.
Are you taking about B? Should I replace the relay
Page # 2 here... HeavyEquipmentForums The only ones that come apart, or need soldered correctly, are the triple relays. Don't try to take apart the others. BTW, with a collective 20,000+ fleet hours on TL150 machines, and 40,000+ fleet hours on Takeuchis in general, I've never had to replace the seat bar switch. If you had stated what machine you were wrestling with in the first post, we could've saved you some aggravation. I've only got 8 Takeuchis here, so, I dont know everything, but, odds are I've encountered it.
Ok, thanks for all your help! I will try and pursue that fix.
The bad solder joints will have "ring" gap around them, like this...
Check this thread too. Page 5 in particular. HeavyEquipmentForums This is such a common issue. Kicking the panel in front of your feet, or tapping it with a hammer, and then machine working, is a sign of bad solder joints.
Ok, you guys were right of course. Many thanks! I replaced the Relay Unit which is a BE31-107. For anyone interested, the Tak part is 1711900062. My dealer PacWest here in Seattle had one. Price, just $56.98 with tax. took a few min for me to install it and the machine operates as it should. Also, found the relay part available at a Gehl Dealer. In the diagram it was K Thanks again Heymccall and Skata!