I'll get the serial number tomorrow but wanted to make a post now while i'm thinking about it. I have a samsung SE210 that I've recently been working. I've had the machine for two years now but never used it. (was a good deal, i bought it, and just let it sit). The boom down and boom up feels weak. The stick feels somewhat strong, and the bucket curl feels pretty strong. The machine swings really fast. The machine has a manual throttle - none of the gauges or buttons work. It's stuck in slow mode. Hydraulic fluid is at the correct level. When i boom up and hold the boom up function after i've been working the machine for a little bit of time the boom sort of jerks up. It'll start coming up, stop for a split second, start again, stop again, start again but it does it so fast it sort of like rocks you in the seat if that makes sense. Boom function wont lift the machine off the ground but if you curl the bucket out it'll pick the machine. Pumps almost sound like they're whining a little bit and the hydraulic hoses while they don't feel HOT they feel pretty warm to almost uncomfortable to touch. 1. Would the hand throttle or lack of control board have this machine in some sort of low power hydraulic mode? 2. Is it possible to put a toggle switch or some sort of switch on this machine to make the slow/fast tracking work? 3. Is there a suction strainer or a filter hidden on this machine somewhere? I changed the one on the back side of the hydraulic tank. 4. Anything else i should check?
I don't see how to edit my above post but for what it's worth both boom lift cylinders as well as the bucket curl cylinder were rebuilt by a reputable hydraulic shop.
for starters, you'll need gauges. Check pilot oil to each function. We want to make sure each function is getting the correct input from the RCVs. Then you'll pull spool caps and look for broken springs, loose retainer screws etc. If all that looks good, measure pump pressure to each function. You could have a weak/worn port relief dumping to tank. Good luck.
Good day May be worth checking if the machine has been switched to manual mode, see attached. You may have a suspect port relief valve, switch it with another will confirm. Kind regards Uffex
I am so far out of my element working on anything hydraulic related. Where would i locate a port relief valve and how would i switch it with another one? Thank you.
So, to be clear what is your level of experience? Changing hoses and filters or something more? Please elaborate, for your safety.
Pretty mechanically inclined i've just never been taught anything about hydraulics, or spools, or anything along those lines so when it comes to that yes mostly just changing hoses and filters. I do know that the pilot system is what gets pressure when you move the levers inside the machine so i'm aware that you're saying to check the pressure coming from those. I'm assuming to check that i remove the pilot line from the valvebody and hook it to a gauge and see how much pressure it will build? I pulled what i believe to be the pilot filter and that was mostly clean. Some metal shavings in the bottom of the canister but overall didn't look bad at all. Hydraulic oil is a bit milky but if that was the issue wouldn't everything be consistently weak?
Good day See attached if you are a newby to hydraulics I would endorse FwF comments, best advice get some prof help. At best you are going to loose a lot of fluid. Kind regards Uffex
Or worse, get oil in you. That's a real concern and you can't get to the hospital quick enough. We encourage people to "get after it" At the same time none of us wants someone to get hurt. Working with the pilot system isn't to terrible. What I was suggesting was to T into the pilot signal, not to deadhead. So if you T into boom up , you should see a slow gradual increase in pressure as you stroke the joystick. You should see from 0 to about 450/475 psi. When you let the stick return to neutral the pressure should drop to zero again.
I am aware of hydraulic injection and the dangers of it. Teeing into the pilot line makes perfect sense. I just ordered a hydraulic pressure test kit from an Amazon with a bunch of tees and hydraulic gauges. When they come in I’ll start checking pilot pressures. I would love to pay someone with knowledge to work on this machine the problem is everyone that I know of around here is lacking the knowledge part. Instead of actually figuring out what’s wrong they just guess and charge a bunch until they either guess right or give up.
You may have to obtain different test fittings for the pump. Samsung and early Volvo up to mid B generation used a UHT or universal hydraulic test fitting but it was fine thread vs coarse. Don't be tricked into crossthreading your new test hoses.
Does the machine track straight?
I bought this. Seemed too cheap but we will see. If I have to I can buy more test tee fittings until I get one that is correct. My plumbing teacher used to tell me there’s no thread tighter than a cross thread. Is there a diagram that shows what is what on the valve body or should I have someone slowly move the controls as I feel each line to see if I can feel fluid start moving through the line? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z6NQDCV/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_item
Yes. The machine tracks straight although turning one track at a time as if you were trying to turn the machine struggles to turn. I believe I can hear it bypassing. If you rev the engine up to like 2200rpm it will get strong enough to turn one track but it’s still not strong it’s like it’s still weak.
Reason I ask is I have the 210-2 model which is slightly later than yours and I have similar symptoms with my stick, when I pull stick in it will go super slow, almost stopping then jerk in quickly, my right track is weak so machine doesn’t track straight. I thought they might have been related and be caused by a weak pump but looking at the schematic P2 controls stick cylinder and P1 the right track so I don’t think they are related. this machine also sat for years and had milky fluid like yours. I flushed the system, opened a heap of hoses, including all the cylinders, track motors and scrubbed out the tank and used 285l (75 gal) to refill……an expensive service! I’m not sure what the bucket curl cycle time should be but to me it feels slow and a bit weak. I hadn’t bothered looking into these issues as the machine is all but retired and only used for the odd farm cleanup job but now you have me curious. Ill have to pull out the old gauges and get testing to see if I can help us both. FWF & Uffex are the resident Volvo/Samsung experts so they will be on the money with your diagnosis I’ll bet.
Good day Attached may be of help. Kind regards Uffex