Have a 650j I put a new battery cables starter in still cranks too slow to fire the 4045h. Engine. Voltage is 12+ volts. At the battery and starter. But drops to 5-6 volts when cranked. Tried to isolate positive and negative, no difference. No change trying to jump . also changed ignition switch. Any help appreciated.
It's possible that you are having a parasitic load on the engine from one of the travel pumps.
That's what I was thinking as well. I was calibrating the TCM when the dozer lurched (inside my garage) and I shut it down. I can turn the engine over with a breaker bar. So question is, how do I relieve the load? I've cracked a hydraulic line on the pump and fluid flows out, but not really under pressure. Thanks for any help.
How do I resolve this?
Remove your floor board. Then disconnect both PCP connectors on the hydrostatic pumps. See if it cranks faster and starts. If it does not, then we will move on the next step.
You should also block the machine up off the ground to keep things safe at this point.
I've done that, no difference. I did replace the front pcp, this the recalibration. I had to take the control valve off to get it out. So could it be the neutral link didnt line up?
Yes, that could be the issue.
Yes it was. Removed the control valve and it cranks fine. Now, any tricks on lining up that neutral send link?
I usually set it in with one hand while looking in a mirror with the other. You can barely see the link, but see it enough to line it up.
I am 99 % sure I got it in. Used the mirror. Could feel it drop in, and then when I slid the the valve body back and forth I could feel the spring tension from the arm. Put it all back together, and back to a slow grind. ????
so I'm still where I started. What would step 2 be?
If it cranked fine with the PDCV assembly off and cranks hard with it on, you either have an issue with the PDCV sticking or you did not get the pin in. The next step would eliminate pressure control issues. It would indicate a mechanical issue if it cranks hard with hoses attached.
This may be way to simplistic but on my farm equipment I've learned the hard way that a battery can show proper voltage but not have enough amps to turn a starter properly. Have you tried swapping batteries so you can be completely sure it's not a weak battery?
I'm leaning towards a pressure issue. When I shut it off during the calibration. It was starting to make a left turn (right track moving). Could it be stuck in drive and when I removed the valve it deverted the pressure? If this is the case, how do I get it out of drive? Thanks for all your help,
I switched out the batteries and even tried jumping it. But I keep looking at this area. Thanks
I PM'd you.
Ok thanks
Seems it needed Seems it may have needed some time or some turns to reset. Cranking much better this morning. Still not starting. Have new injector pump, injectors, lift pump. Have 200 psi compression in all cylinders during cranking just holding the guage in by hand. The ratio on this engine is 17.2:1 figure that's 250 psi. I got fuel to the injectors, a little white smoke from the exhaust. Won't fire on ether. Still stumped.
Has cranking speed been checked with a tach? If parasitic load is too high, ether will not help. Sounds low to me. But we need to make sure cranking speed is good. Compression Spec for engine with the mechanical injection pump is 345-405. Engine with electronic injection pump, 410-430.
Haven't checked the speed with a tach.
I pulled one of the injectors and it does not spray. It has a new injector pump and is getting signal from the crankshaft sensor. There is fuel to the injector. ???? What would keep it from firing? Thanks
Tried this. No change in crank speed. Though it seems to be fair. The injectors don't fire however. Could it be stuck in drive, or so electrical indication to not fire (ie, in gear)
OK, we need to step back and concentrate on one thing at a time. We need to establish whether or not you have a parasitic load. I know it would be a bit of work, but you might have to unbolt the pump assembly from the engine and slide it back out of the drive. Then see if it starts. It ran up until you shut the engine down during calibration and sudden movement (correct?), so I think we need to rule out what was touched first. Also, I believe on the monitor you can see engine rpm?? What does it read during cranking? I also need the machine serial number please.
Se501735 engine, see 4045h792552. Got it to fire a couple pops today. The milivolts
The milivolts going to the injector selinoid is eradic. Up to 5. And lower.
Need the machine serial, not the engine serial. You can't measure the voltage with a meter for the injection pump. It is pulse width controlled. It can really only be checked with a scope. You could use a meter using the frequency setting or the duty cycle setting, depending on the type of pulse width signal that is generated, but that would be no good as well since there is no specification. Again, did it run fine when you shut it down?
Yes it was running fine. Was in the second stage of calibration, pumps, when I ubruply shut it down due to it taking a jump to make a left turn.
Then I don't think the engine is the issue. Follow those documents I sent you and see where that leads.
Thanks, a jd tech said there are a couple relief valved on the pumps. Gonna try that.
It was a parasidic drag issue. There are two relief valved on the left side of the pump (vertical to each other) they are a inch and a quarter nut heads. Nothing connected to them . I lossened the ones on the forward pump a couple of turns, and it starter spun it up and it started. Tightening them did not snuff out the engine. Could here the hydraulic fluid kick in though. Started back up without issue. Now I need to staighten out the transmission. Stuck in reverse. I don't think i got that nuetral link right. Thanks for your help.
The valves are part number 11 on your diagram
Apparently I didnt tighten the flow control valve (bottom) (part 11) it snuffs out the engine. What is the cause for this? Bad valve, or somethibg else. Thanks.
Something else. When it is loose it was allowing the pressurized oil to go somewhere instead of trying to drive the machine. Now that it is tight, no leakage, and the hydrostats are trying to drive the machine. Again, follow the documents I sent you to isolate the issue.
Sorry didn't get any documents. Pretty new to this site so still trying to figure it out. Thanks
Found the problem. The null adjustment on the pilot control valve was not set, tight,enough. Turned it a few turns and it resolved the problem. Machine calibrated, and drives. Thanks.