Hey guys, I have posted some pictures on another thread and they suggested me to open my own thread. So this is gonna be it. i'm a self employed mechanic from the Netherlands, started out 3 years ago and business is going strong. i'm specialised (for as much as it can) in: - mobile line-boring, - undercarraige repairs and modifications, - pin and bushings removale and installing, - starting to do bucket repairs and modifications. and all the other repairs that i can do, but i'm trying to get enough work with the top 4 points off work. I've got a fully loaded service van (volkswagen Crafter 50 for the fans) and i'm trying to make the step to buy/build a service truck complete with crane etc etc. But thats more for the future.
here are some pictures off my service van:
i have got a shop that i rent. its from a contractor that doesn't use it much so now i can use it. Its not that im standing a lot in the shop cause i try to fix all the things outside at the costumer place or in the costumers shop. but its always handy to have a good working place when needed.:notworthy
here are a few pictures off jobs i worked on. putting new tracks and rollers on a Cat365 replacing a broken pin from a bargebucket here's the Multidocker that is usely sits on. replacing the arm on a Hitachi zx800
removing some seazed pins with the thermic lance.
some line-boring pictures
some more line-boring jobs.
replacing startergear on a Komatsu WA270 wheel loader some line-boring on a Volvo L50
repairing a stabilisor bar from a cat D9
line-boring the hinge point from a cultivator
i can keep posting pictures for a couple of hours to cover the jobs i did last few months, but here's a recent one. i'm almost done working on a Liebherr 984 where i've been working on for the last weeks with a few different jobs in between. This is the biggest excavator in my clientel at the moment, so its nice to work on it for a while. it is one off the few (maybe the only one?!) with a detachable track system simulair as on the crawler cranes. it has a long stick and a short stick with a 11m3 bucket. so it's quite the m3 mover! working weight is around the 135metric tons. we needed to replace all trackrollers, sprockets, chains and welded a extra top roller in the middle of the trackframe, so it helps to keep the chain up and doesn't hit the frame. also they had made some new pins for the detachable tracks. the older ones have been seazed up after sitting with the tracks in the water for a couple of weeks.. so they took them out the hard way.. track frame weight in at 14ton without chains.. what a distance.. can't do it without a helping hand from the mini. it's a big chain.
Wow,you have my attention!Thanks for sharing,nice work!RonG
BuMach, Fascinating stuff, keep posting!
I'm subscribed. Nice work!
Impressive. Keep the pics coming.
Great work! I like the logo and color scheme on the van, very professional.
Keep posting your work
Great work Bumach! Thanks for your picture. Posting again!!! How many pound you lift with your crane ? It's possible to put a couple pic of crane? Thanks.
Do you remake a circlip groove? and if it's yes, do you take a facing head or do you put a welding ring?
Nice work and pics!
As stated previous, great work and thanks for posting!!
You can do a groove without a facing head. The bar will spring a couple thou, so use that that flex to push your bit out, turn it on and let it cut a few revs, stop and repeat until you're at depth. Sometimes it's quicker than getting a head set up. Greyson
Hi guys, Thanks for all the things sad on this topic. For the circlips; i dont have a head yet, its on my wish list. Now i usely make a ring and weld that one in. Works good for me. I dont like the bending the bar type of idea. My carbid insert dont like that and the vibration will brake my carbid pretty quick. To make facing i know you can do it with a normal toolholder and just adjust that one manual to the outside. Havent done it this way but have seen a guy do it like that. My crane will lift 0,5ton/mtr. So on 2,5mtr outreach it will lift 200kg. Not big enough usely but definitly handy when in need and to help unload/load your van by yourself. I'll post some pics off this crane later when i get back home again.
here are a few pictures off the detachable tracks taken the old pins and cilinders out. New pins, these are hardened and grinded to a finish and have greasing points and grooves. The old ones where just CrMo pins with no finish and no greasing, so they seazed up pretty bad.. new pins in and some lube lines, so they can grease the pins from the outside.
today we finaly got the left chain closed. had some issues with the idler wheel which wasn't able to go back all the way. so after some wrestling with it, we got it out and cleaned it all up. a picture off the crane in my van. (don't mind the full van.. gotta clean it up this weekend after the Liebherr is done)
I'm glad to see you are keeping busy
Great Thread BuMach, Look forward to the many updates! How do you like your elsa boring machines? I do similar work (although not as big machinery) I have a Sir meccania boring machine. Good machine but it did give some bother. Have been thinking of updating soon! Aiden
Hello Aiden, good to hear you're in the same ball park! i've worked a few times a little bit with the sir mecanicca and seen the machine so i can not Judge like you can, but what i thought where plus points at the elsa machine for me are: - simple, no rpm display, just 2 knops - the machine hangs on a tapered bushing system instead off the straight bushing at the SIR, though this tapered idea would be steardier then the sir type. also the new ones (same as mine) have some sort of tooth system on this tapered bushing that prevents the machine from turning when applied a high torque, so it hangs in the bushing and that tooth systems takes the stress of keeping the machine stationary. - the mechanical weld connection/gear is a big plus. No hassle of getting the turning rpm and feed lined up, just pull a little lever and you can start your weld. I see a lot of guys with a Sir weld-in by hand just cause its faster, but i can garranty its so easy and fast with the elsa! - the belly off the machine is very tight, so i can sometimes put my machine at spots (bucket ears) where a SIR just wont fit because its a bit bigger at the belly, so i can bore a hole which is closer to a plate. - manual feed, just like with a lade you can manual feed the machine and then pull the turning knob and you can automatic feed, its nice when you want to measure the bore and it moves quick by hand. the electrical feed is already a bit faster then the SIR at max rpm. The minus point i found out: - the feed on a SIR has a much finer POT-meter then the Elsa, so when i want to start my feed it starts moving at nr 2,2 instead of 0, the plus point is that you don't need to turn the feed knob 10 times before its on max rpm (thats why SIR has that max rpm button). But LBW usely put different pot-meters in there for this reason. but i still got a few months of warranty and after that i'm going to switch too. - i've got a SC40 easy which only has 2 gears, good enough for when you do a bit off line boring but i might go for a 4 gear machine or have mine rebuild to a 4 gear in the future. with the 4 gear you're able to match the bar speed with a higher torque to the bore you're making. sometimes when i make holes off 160-200mm the machine might go in over-heat, cause i need to go lower with the rpm do to the size off the bore, then the fan on the drive motor goes down in rpm too and the amp go up a bit too. but i'm gonna try a different fan when the machine goes out off waranty. i bought my machine at a dutch importer, but i order my parts at LBW Machines in the UK, he is your importer for Elsa too, A very good guy with a lot off knowledge on these machines! pricing on the Elsa and Sir Mecannica are pretty much the same at least on my quotes. i just bought the Elsa based on my little experience with the SIR. I do think i will be buying another elsa when i would chose next time. but then i would like to see how much differece the 60mm version will have compared to my 40mm. I have looked at Climax machines, but i think they are a bit to expensive for the bores i make.. but i do see some plus points with them too, which im going to have a look at to see if i can make those plus point by my self. the simple fact is not one machine will be 100% perfect for your needs and you will Always be looking for ways to make it easier/better to adapt to your working methode. well it's pretty much a whole story but i hope you have some info from my point of view now
Great work BuMach I also have a Sir Meccanica ws2 machine I have also purchased the 20 mm bar which is great for the small stuff its paid for its self in a couple of jobs . I did find my ws2 difficult to weld in a 30 mm bore as the angle of the torch was incorrect and giving a lot of porosity in the weld as the wire would be about 30 mm from the shielding gas I tried more gas less gas block the end up in the end I set about making my own head for which I can get into 25 mm at a push with it but works great with 30mm. . My original machine is a bi motor plus (still have for special jobs as you say there's no gear box and slim in the body) from Sir Meccanica which is very similar to your Elsa machine but the bar screws into the end but does have more travel though and works very well on the welding but you do need to have the welding lance hanging out the other end of what you are welding so restricting you job slightly. ,No sliding bat through the machine which is a pain when needing to swap it all about but at least the two machines share the same bars and mounting blocks so at least you can two at the same time if required whilst ones working can onto setting up the next one and so on. Keep posting the pictures. Jeff
hi Jeff. that old Sir mecanica sure looks a lot like my Elsa. in the past sir mecannica had two owners. one bought him self out and started Elsa. that's why in Europe the most common line-boring machines are on off these two companies. last week i bought myself a new toy. After working with a lot off different brands and seeing a lot off different brands. i made the decision to step up my game and buy a real impact wrench from Paoli. they don't come cheap but this Paoli impact wrench pulls out a punch with his 3728Nm off maximum torque and more important 1668Nm of working torque. it weights a bit over 10kg and is the strongest 1" pistol style impact wrench. The size comes in handly when mounting bottomrollers etc. this week i'm going to order the goods to make a cart for it so i have a dewatering and oiling station complete with a buffertank. In the meantime the Liebherr is on his jobsite scooping dirt. I think in the next 2-4 weeks i will be doing a Cat 349 undercarraige by the looks off it. so then i can test out my new toy in real life
That looks purty hefty for one hand.My wrists hurt just reading about it.It looks well built,good luck with it.Ron G
Great projects and great pictures.
Jep its a bit heavy for one hand. i ordered a second handle for it and a lifting bracket. i'm gonna look at the possibility to get a balancer on it so then it doesn't weight much when you walk over the chain to tighten/undo the bolts.. but i gotta see how this thing works without..
I worked at a shop that had this impact wrench,I am sorry that I used this ebay item to show it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ingersoll-Rand-285B-6-1-Extended-Anvil-Impact-Wrench-/190551301527 The wrench we had had a spline on the end where the socket goes,I cannot find one today like it.It used a 1" air hose to supply it.We used it to mount and dismount 24" rubber on our big Macks.Ron G
Hi Ron, yep i've seen these onces. Those are build also under license for other brands. Probely the most sold one are the Toku once. They are good. The big difference between what i do with a wrench and what a normal truck related or agricultural shop will do is that i do approx. 400 nuts per machine(a set off tracks) The reason i go for Paoli is the quality and system that sits inside the wrench. Its unbelievable the way it punches the bolts. Price tag off the Paoli sits well above the $2000,- US so i hope it proves his quality. I have had some guys where i line bore for had the same issue as i had a couple off years ago and they went Paoli with all there wrenches and they still talk good about them. So i hope i can say the same thing in about 2-3 years. We will see i guess. Nothing gambled nothing gained!
I will have to take your word for it.We never had any problem with ours while I worked there but I would not want to carry ours while changing track pads either.Good luck with it.Ron G
BuMach, what kind of pressure and volume is recommended for that wrench? Regards, Bob
bob, The pressure will be 6,3 bar. didn't knew it, but that is a standard pressure for air tools. I'm allowed to let the wrench run at 10bar, but since that 6,3 is a standard thats where they work the best with. Air comsumption will be around the 1500-2000l/min. atleast thats where i make my setup for.. they didnt gave me an amount off air use.. so i just took the specs off a bigger one. yesterday i bought a compressor at an auction, haven't seen it yet in real life, but i think/hope it will be big enough. Cause i'm a bit limited by my generator (7kVa) in my service van.. Im currently making my setup. i have almost everything in 1"size.. so i should have not to much pressure loss. i will have my compressor then a big hose to a wooden box where i have my 45ltr buffer tank in(this buffer tank is one way, so the compressor can only put air in the tank), then i have my pressure control valve unit thing with de-watering and oil mist, and then a hose 13mm (inside) to the wrench and a 19mm(inside) going from the wrench back to the wooden box with a muffler on the end. So the return from the wrench goes away from me, they say it saves a lot off noise but i do it more so i dont get that nice blast of sand in my face when i use the wrench.. if the twin hose setup doesn't work out as easy then i shorten that second hose to have it like 1,5 meter away from me. but i gotta start somewhere i guess... we will see how it works out..
Did it ever cross your mind to look at something like RAD-brand torque tooling..? We found them to be far better than impact wrenches, especially when doing jobs like track shoe bolts, and they're muhc lighter and put less stress on the "driver" for want of a better expression. http://www.radtorque.com/products_pneumatic.php?sub=13
Impressive looked at the 80DX. A 30.5 lb. wrench that can put out 8,000 ft/lb of torque! and the "little" 7GX that weights in at 8 lbs. and puts out 700 ft/lb. And these are repeatable torques not just a impact wrench that depends on how long you let it hammer.
Hello Nige, I did look at a different brand(hytorq) and had a demo last year I like the tool. But they arent the best for undoing trackplates. Since they miss the hammer effect to loosen the rust and to calculated that in you would need a bit bigger wrench which is another couple 1000,- extra.. I do have one on my wish list cause they are much faster then with the hydraulicb wrench that only has a couple degrees per set. And a lot more accurate then an impact. . And even at the track specialist down at Verhoeven which do a couple of hundred tracks a year they dont use a torque tool. Only for the biggest tracks where you need 6000Nm they hire a guy to do it. But like with a lot off things a wrench like that will cost +€15.000,- which is to much for the type off work im going to do with it.
BuMach, did you get a rotary compressor and if so what brand? I currently have two 80 gallon 5 horse recipro units set up in tandem in the shop, but eventually would like to go with a rotary unit (gets pretty noisy when both are running). Would definitely like to see a pic of the setup once you get it put together. Regards, Bob
Hi Bob, I got a compressor with two pistons. Like a v-twin. I've seen one simulare on a secondhand website there it sais it gives 800l/min... But that seems me a bit high. But i know it on the 6st of april then im going to pick him up. Will post some pics when i get it to work.
Looking at the web site, VERY interesting. Any idea what the Battery-Powered Series : B-RAD 3000 is priced at? Thanks, Bob
A couple of comments. First Hytorc wrenches are hydraulic and so require some sort of a power pack which significantly raises the price; RAD are powered by compressed air and therefore don't. I understand the part about needing the "rattle" of the impact wrench to remove track shoe bolts. However to me it's false economy to even attempt to reuse old track shoe bolts simply based on the labour hours required to remove them, unless you are doing the job for youtrself and therefore your labour cost is zero. Added to that even if you use an impact wrench there is always a percentage of fasteners that won't come apart for whatever reason and have to be cut. Cut all the old bolts out with oxy-acetylene and fit new hardware, it's faster and cheaper overall. Regarding your comments about even the "track specialists" not having one then they really ought to get with the program or they can't really call themselves specialists IMHO. To me no self-respecting track shop should be without a set of torque tooling.
Hi Nige, I understand your point of vieuw. The track bolts are always a point of comment.. If i could cut them always i would do so. Usely its a €5,-/€10,- per bolt complete with nut(im not talking about the 20-30ton excavators). So on a 52 link its a couple of €1000,- that you can safe. (The call us dutch for a reason eh!) How ever i can undo track plates quicker with a wrench, when they do come lose then i can cut them. Have done close to 70-80 tracks and i cant really say cutting them is quicker.. But when they don't come lose that quick, im gonna cut them for sure. The client will pay bolts and nuts but they wont buy me a new wrench when i wreck it up.. The track specialist is pretty much one of the bigger ones in europe.. They do more tracks per week then most guys to per year.. I've done lots of work for them so thats where i get my experience from. How ever that being sad, i dont get it that they dont have torque tools or something like that. If i would do the same amount i would definitly buy me one of them. Then at least you know you dont over tight the smaller bolts.. And they are usely a lot lighter then those heavy wrenches.. But that has more to do with the management then with the working guys..
Let me put it this way. I wouldn't give any of my business to a 3rd party (one that was not a dealer for a manufacturer in other words) company that couldn't demonstrate to me that it was following OEM specifications to carry out repair work. I suppose the question is how can they achieve OEM specifications if they don't use torque tooling..? The answer "well we've never had a track shoe come loose" is not acceptable....
Thats what i think to. I saw them last week and they where checking some bolts with a manual torque wrench. I always try to be better then my compatitor but there is always a piece of financial in the middle. The torque on those track bolts is a bit of that the manufacture will say the amount but in real life nobody looks at it. Im definitly not saying im against your opinion cause i agree on the most of that. But if they dont do it as one off Berco's biggest dealers and they have there own track brand. Who im i to invest €7500,- cause thats what a rad wrench probely end up costing when nobody really gives something about it. If costumers would ask me to put them on the torque according to oem specs i would buy me one for sure. But i might buy one in the end anyways just to let my costumer know i put them to spec and they dont. So that might give me the edge on the rest of the pack. But thats why its on my wish list. First gotta make some money doing it the "old fashion" way.
BuMach, The outfit you purchased the impact wrench from also manufacture torque multiplier wrenches similar to Rad Wrench. Berco has their own torque spec's, some are straight torque and some are pre-torque + angle turn Enjoy your adventures
Hi Stanrus, Yep that was also the one i was thinking off to buy. But they only make them till 1700Nm. Which i think might not be enough when undoing the bolts. And the price off €7800,- which is $10.000,- US made me consider to have a look at a different brand for the torque tool. Rather spend a bit more on a heavier one then.
15DX new ebay = 1500lb ft torque or 2033Nm http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAD-15DX-Pneumatic-torque-wrench-/291723412631 Seller doesn't want to ship out of US...when you reach a point to purchase these types of torque tools you'll probably need a rotary-screw compressor because these pneumatic tools gobble up air!
I have the next size up (still one inch) think it does around 3000ft lbs... Epic piece of kit. Don't use it as much as I used to, probably would think twice if I had to buy another one. But for what they do, I don't think they can be beaten.
Fortunately I didn't have to pay for the ones we had (we probably had a dozen or so in different sizes and capacities) but from personal experience they were the mutts nuts when it came to torque tooling - tightening or loosening it made no difference....I'd never use a rattle gun ever again TBH.
Quote Originally Posted by BuMach View Post ''i have a special toolholder with this toolholder i went from a cc08 insert to a 09 insert. now i use a 80degrees carbid insert a ccmt09T302, 304 and 306 those i use for a bit harder materials, i use a CCGT09T302 insert for the rest off the bores. These GT insert give me no fibration or heat. and can still put a decent amount of materials in front off the insert. These gt are grinded inserts, so they don't have a nose radius and are really sharp (like a sharp drill edge), but it suprises me how though they are also when going threw a welded bore. Almost just as though as a HSS drill. i had a few different brands come out with some demo inserts and i got one now who i think works best.'' Hello Bumach. this is one of your text in a old Tom V thread. I would like know what grade and chipcraker of insert you use with ccmt and ccgt because i try korloy ccmt ak grade and is not very though. . Thanks!!!
Hi Mink, The GT i now use the CCGT09T302 PF2 CM10 from Phantom. It has a bit better chipbreaker then the one i had first. On the MT i use the CCMT09T304MMIT1601 its just a black plate and is cheap as hell. But works good. I can make a picture if you want. But it takes a few days before im back in the shop again.
Yes if you want put a picture i'm agree. Thanks!!!
I hope it works with my phone. But here are the photos off the plates i use. The right one is the one from Phantom.
Thanks Bumach. I search comparative insert near my home .!!!
hej guys, few weeks went by and i have done quite a few jobs. the Liebherr 984 is running good and is scooping a lot off dirt! the guys where talking that they are moving 5000m3 per day worth off gravel, and then they only run day hours. to me it sounds like a lot! i work a few times a year for a company that constructs tracksystems (thats where i get my experience from as far as tracks and welding go) and last week i did a few jobs for them. don't have a lot of photos cause im not allowed to bring out a lot off picture cause they do make some special stuff! here's a trackpowerpack, which will have two planting units (one in front and one in the back) that will push fake grass in between real grass so the soccer field stays longer in good condition. clubs like Liverpool, Manchester etc etc have grass fields from this company, i personaly have been in a couple of places to service and fix these machines. I helped them out with swapping the powerpack units from the old tracks on to the new ones and modified it on some spots. I also welded (together with 5 other welders) a steel track ring (it's a big I beam rolled to a diameter of 20mtrs and then we put a chain around it and weld it on there. This track ring will drive a 2000ton carrosel for laying Ocean Cable. (i've done a few off these in the past too) also modified the powerpack that they are going to use for this carrosel (sits in a 42ft container)
also went to have a look at a used truck. I've got planned to buy me (or build one) that looks close to the one i went to have a look at. Just went to take a look and get some ideas and stuff like that for when the time is there to work out my truck. did a smaller line-boring job in the evening Also did a few bucket refurbishments and the repair on the main pivotpoint on a swivelbucket (is it called that?!) putted on some new trackschains with rollers etc on a D6 and i got planned another one within the next two weeks (depends when the tracks come in). this last one has the CAT system one on it so it's a first for me with that system so we'll see how it works out. also i've got planned a Cat 349 where i need to change the sprocket and some bottom rollers Currently working on a Hitachi 210 where a clip broke in the splitterbox and got chewed by some teeth on the gears.. but i'll probely post some pictures off this one Monday cause them i'm back over there to put the new parts on it. have a safe weekend guys and till next time:drinkup:drinkup
Hi guys, finaly have some time to catch up with some computer work. like i previous sad i was working on a Hitachi, here are the pics off the gears.. was a easy job to fix so not to bad to do in between. also did some work on a Hiab 550 folding crane, which sits normaly on a bargeboat
also did some track work on a CAT349, needed some new bottomrollers and toprollers, new sprockets and we had a busted tensioner. Also made a demo stand for a client for their wearplates. looked pretty good if you asked me
Did my first System One from cat, nothing fancy but nice to see how this system works. This was a complete replacement off tracks, rolls and sprockets, also all the wearplates i refurbished them. also they client went for the heavy trackplates, the standard are to flimzy and flex to much. where three good days worth of work but turnout nice
Then i finaly had time to do the work i had planned a month ago. i've got 4 clambshell buckets to refurbish and a lot off work came in between this job so it takes a lot longer then planned. its a 5,5m3 one. This one i only needed to replace a few bushings and all the seals. Also welding in new cutting edges. We're testing out a design they liked to i will see how long this cutting edge gonna hold up.. the next 3 will be more off a job, i got one laying outside where you can see through the shells.. so i gotta talk with the costumer what we gonna do with them..
and also had time to use my air impact wrench setup. works like a charm! i could also undo the bolts from the Liebherr 984 (i do need to put the pressure up to 10bars). Also the 40ltr buffer tank makes me to be able to use the wrench even when the costumer doesnt have a big compressor.
Keep posting with pics,very classy work!Ron G
How many hours did they get out of the system 1 undercarriage?
They did 6306 hours on them. So really not bad. They got another one who only did 4300 with a set.. All depends on the situation and where it runs i guess
couple weeks ago, also put a Lubecore grease system on the undercarraige from a Liebherr LR1200 (or 1400) this undercarraige goes back to Liebherr and they will put a brandnew top machine on it. so we're hoping Lubecore Europe will get a phonecall from liebherr any time soon, so they can get the Lubecore system instead off the Beka which they got right now..
also had a little job in helping my transporter with getting a CAT on transport. just needed to take off the stairs and stuff like that to make it a bit narrower. small welding job, the pivotpoint was broken off a pivot bucket(is that what they are called?!) so welded in a brace plate and welded it back on there again. probely wont snap off again..
also helped a mate of mine, keeping a piece of history alive! think this english wheel is from 1918 or something like that. He just wanted to have some new bushings and helped him out putting them in with liquid nitrogen. also the welding job off last week evenings.. had 6 track wear plates i needed to mild-face(it's only 400HB..) it was a hell of a job, but got it done on time. These plates are for a Liebherr 895 dragline.
does anyone know why my photos are turned? is this because off the size of the photo? cause on my computer they are the right way up.. thanks guys
i'm trying to sell a Robustus system from Berco for a D6. Cause my supplier has some good warranty hours on them and they say it holds better then the system one from Cat, they do have some clients who can back this up.. But it's a bit difficult to convince somebody with the Berco, i'm not saying System One is better or the Berco one, but there's a lot off money involved so if my client tells me i need to deliver system one, its oke with me how ever there is a big price-difference between the Berco and CAT. Future will tell if i can get the client that far that it will buy the Berco from me..
Nice looking work BuMach! Looks like you have been staying very busy...as far as the picture rotation, I don't have a clue..but it sure hurts my neck early in the morning to look at them:drinkup Regards, Bob
Had again a nice and busy time since the last time i posted. here are a few things i've been working on. Last weekend i had a work marathon todo some work on the Liebherr 984 I had to get the bucket pin bushings back in shape and the pin ears on the quick attachment. this excavator is used to dig up the gravel(the stick will be all the way underwater, thats how deep they'll go) they had some issues before they started but now the bushings where cracked and started chewing on it. a lot off left-to-right play as well. so it was time to get it back in shape again!
Also started working on clambshell nr.2 this one is in a worse shape then nr.1 so i'll have my hands full.. cracked main tube, welded the crack full and but a brace around is in the hope to strengthen it again. need to line-bore all the bores. on both clambs so ive been doing that for the last week. also i need to replace the clamb side walls and main skin.. so its gonna take a while before its back in shape
also invested last week in a facing head for my line-boring machine. i've been testing it a bit, but i need to have a bit more time and rest to learn how to work with it. it needs a nice and flat surface to cut, and the facings i tested on where welded and had probely some rest of smashed bushing in there to.. and with the tight time window i had to get the liebherr done i wasnt able to waste a lot off time in testing the head. But i will be using it at the body off this clambshell to get the surface where the seal sits smooth again.
the quickattach for the liebherr new bushings in. this is how the bores are at the clambshell..
Very Nice pictural and information. Very Nice job to. Good Luck whith your new facing head
Good to see you posting, nice work. Looking forward to hearing and seeing more about your facing head. Keep us updated when you have the time.
Thanks for the posts,this is all new to me and I am just amazed at your work and what can be done with the proper tooling. As usual keep sharing with us.Ron G
Hi Bu, Demo video ELSA manual feed:Banghead face welding https://youtu.be/_iqcdxXdX28
I know.. Thats just the ****s. I just do it by hand.
Elsa facing head video: https://youtu.be/A6j6GCW54_I
Hello Bumach. Il would like know how material your welding torch's made and if bigger torch shaft have a keyseat. Thanks.
Hi Mink, my weldingtorch is made from aluminium, and has the same shape (40mm shaft with two top sides milled flat, so you'll get a key in the middle) as my boring bar, there is also a 30mm extension inside so its telescopic sort to speak. I would need to measure the total length off the torch, but i'm back home tomorrow. but im guessing it is close to 1,50-1,75mtr from the machine to the end off the tip at maximum. I've bought a new Elsa machine two weeks ago and they say the welding torch is still from aluminium but anidosed black so that will thoughen up the surface and be lots more scratch resistant. My torch is just plain alu.
two weeks ago, before my holiday i worked on my first 300mm bore. Had to do some modifications in order to go this big. My Elsa is designed to go up to 250mm so this one was a bit on the edge. Had a buddy of mine watercut some mountingplates for the bearings out off Weldox 800. Now i can put the bearinglegs out to like 525mm. The bore was on a base from a knuckleboom crane. Because off the short window that we could work (3,5 days from start to finish) we decided to leave the base on the truck. Normaly they will take it off and some other guy machine it on a bench. I was a bit off a challenge to line up the top bushing surface (which i needed to fix) and the bottom bushing. Cause i can't weld anything on the inside off the base. Also i made a bearingplate which i could fixture on the inside off the base so i've got some bearing support near the top bearing. worked out pretty good. Also decided two weeks ago to buy a bigger Elsa boring machine. I now got the basic model with only two gears and all the tools to go up to 250mm, now i bought the biggest version for the 40mm bar which has 4 gears and tools to go up to 400mm (or even 600mm with some extra stuff) i'm gonna pick this on up this Wednesday and turn in my Elsa machine. Here are some pics off the job. lining it all up welded in the bore (don't know why its upside down..) machining the bore the bracket plate with the bearing. the end result. well guys, gonna post some more pics off the new machine when i get it. keep the shiny side up!
Nice job Bumach! How long Just for centering shaft ? What kind of material a bushing is made?
Hi Mink, I think i took me 1,5 hrs or so to center the shaft. Had to make some adjustments. If im correct bushing is made from steel and PTFE which is a plastic compound. The outside off the bushing is copper coated just like welding wire.
Very clever BuMach how you set up the mount inside of the housing! It must have taken an hour to weld the bore? And how in the heck did you get that big bushing in without wrinkling it Regards, Bob
Hi Bob, Thanks for the compliment. Took me a bit off thinking to come up with that idea for the bearing too. The bushing suprised me to that it fitted that well. Normaly i screw them up too... But on those bushings there is only a ID number and the wide off it. it had 300mm ID and i measured up the tickness of the bushing and came up that the probely engineered it that the OD would be 305mm. Machined the bore to 305,10 just to make sure i had enough play to get it in there and to get the stump in there too in the end.. When we fitted the crane that bushing was so tight it actually was airtight.. And there was no visible play in there. To weld it up it took me two passes off 50min each with 1.0mm.. Was a bit a hassle cause on this long welding time the torch starts to heat up a bit too and that caused some problems too. So next time i might go for the 0,8mm again just to be on the safe side off the amperage see if i can keep it just a little bit cooler. Im guessing the torch is made for 145amp 100% and i was welding 155-165 so in the end those 10 amp might made a bit off a difference. But we will see next time. With the new boring machine i get also a new torch and so on. I get a complete new set with everything new.
Sometimes a little more gas flow will help with the heat also?
Increasing shielding gas flow can pull air into the shielding gas nozzle (40cfm max recommended). Overheating TORCH, common problem borewelding with 0.045" dia wire, affects Bore Tech-Climax; torches with lots of copper usage. BRS's aluminum torches improve heat rejection, helps. GOOD WORK BuMach
I have tried that to. Got it up to 15l/min but that is prettt much the limit before it affects the welding process. But good idea:drinkup
Hi guys, got the new Elsa machine in for a week and done two new crane booms for a prototype knuckle boom crane with it last week. Must say machine is a lot stronger then the other one, also tolerances are much better and it works like a charm. the result sas it all. there was another piece laying close to i was working which did a different line-borer guy.. the costumer wasnt happy, took weeks instead of days before he had it back and to be honest the bore doesnt look that nice either.. this was his result, luckely the costumer was able to see the difference in the work method and the result. So i think they might be calling me again next time.. Tomorrow and the most off next week i will be working on a big job for our local CAT dealer, so im looking forward to do some work for them. And show them how i work. keep the shinny side up and till next time
New 4 speed, hope that works better for you! Pride of workmanship; best advertising is word of mouth...Cat Dealer don't sell your time to cheap! Be safe
That sure is a nice looking finish on that bore BuMach! Look forward to some in progress pics. Regards, Bob
BuMach I have also had some good results with a Sir Mecannica on a 40 mm bar using inserts seems the mounting of bearing is critical for vibration and which type of tip i tried different ones but now found a reasonable insert which will give these results.Keep posting the pictures nice to see.
Hi guys, well had two busy weeks, got the job done at the local CAT dealership and they send more work towards me in the future. i'm actualy line boring a quick attach from a wheelloader for them as we speak. here a few pics off the job last week, The boom cracked at the rear, they had machined it a few months ago too, but when they welded the ears on, they "forgot"to take the bar which they welded in between for keeping the ears in place, they forgot to take it out there before line-boring, so after lineboring they took that bar out and the tension came off the ears. They had a really hard time getting the boom back on there they said. because off the tension the ears cracked again. So now they did the whole nine yards on the boom, stick and bucket. All pins are replaced and if the bores where not good i needed to line bore them. we ended up with 8 bore setups so the cat guy did 2 and i did 6 in the same time:bash:bash:bash they gave the bushings in the ears off the boom 0,4mm crush.. which i think is a LOT! they had some issues getting the bushing in to say it nicely.. I did also the stick nose, gave those bushings 0,32mm crush.. The cat guy wrote down the sizes off the bores, so i just needed to make them that size. was a nice job, bore are between 180 and 110mm and roughly 15-25cm deep which took a while to get it all out nice. but it worked out well. the guys are happy with the job and quality so thats good.
Very nice looking repair, I'd be happy with that. Cat will love you for that. Thanks for posting.
hi guys, been a while since i've posted something on the forum again. Have been busy! so had a lot stuff to do, still have a lot off stuff to do.. got enough work laying at the shop to keep me busy for the next few weeks into 2017.. And that's without all the service calls where i need to go to. so i'm not complaining at all. had a rear-axle triangle from a cat dumper a few weeks ago. the bearing came lose and damaged quite a bit. had it linebored and welded the facing up and machined the facing again.
machined a quick attach for a Volvo, machined the facings to fit the Volvo without shims, new pins and bushings and she was back as tight as it can be.
had a special order off 2 buckets to replace the side walls and liners from steel into stainless. The client wants it to keep clay from building up on the inside. normaly i use chains which i weld inside the bucket, but this client wanted to go the extra mile and make it stainless. all 8mm thick stainless. was quite the hassle to get it into place cause my metal guy probely measured a bit wrong.. but i got it in there
had a small graple in for repairs, had the best help i could find for this small equipment, Small equipment, small mechanic :notworthy a bit off father and son quality time. graple had some bolts broken on the bearing and bearing is cracked.. probely due to a top-notch excavator driver...:Banghead but because the bolts broke even the mainbody had a crack in it. opened the crack up and welded it back and machined the body again so everything was flat and on size.
had a concrete shear in for some rebuild work and had a small crack at a critical point so we decided to fix it. opened up the crack and pre-heated the shear, welded some run-out strips on it and start welding it back up. keeping a good eye on the temperature which is important with these things!
I've got a new client which is a big demolition guy. so got a lot off work from them with their shears and crushers. have a few crushing plates which i fixed again from a Demarec crusher, also rebuild 2 bigger crushers (50ton class machines) and got one laying in the shop to be the next welding job.. so hardfacing wire is almost going faster then my construction welding wire :tong:tong currently working on a new crane arm from a construction company. they had some issues with welding, so the holes didn't line up as nice as it suppost to do.. had a full day off aligning the bars today, so tomorrow i can catch up bit with line-boring it. Thinking more and more on getting a full time employee next year. hired a younger guy few months ago to work for me on saturdays and evenings, that already helps a lot. But since the jobs keep building up it would be nice to catch-up every now and then.. so got some thinking to do next year on where i want to go from now.. Well guys i've got you guys some what updated.. hope i have some more time in the future, but days are long and nights are short.. Have a good one you guys and till next time!
As always very clean work, thanks for posting
Looks good, like the coveralls! Could come in handy when working in tight places on some equipment!!
Hi Blu, Apprenticeship for Junior, great! Enjoy Xmas Runoff tabs (strips); that is the correct way that many welders never use.
Hi guys, I'ts been a while ago again, times flies when you're having fun i guess.. have had a lot off repairs so i'll pick out a few which might be interesting for some. have had a quickfix job, a crusherplate where the quick-attach lip has been broken off.
A week later, we had another crusherplate with a broken tooth adapter, and this one also needed some extra building up on the plate to get it back in shape again. was a nice job for my Saturdayhelp to learn a bit off hardfacing welding.
had a bucket in the shop where the costumer wanted some new ears on. gouched off the old ones and welded up some new ones, these ears are machined after cutting to have a nice and tight fit. keep out pretty nice Busy at the shop. new ears welded on there.
Had a small job for a company where i line bore a lot for, a pivotboom from a knockleboom crane had some ears that wheren't really fresh, so that was a nice job to fill up the evening.
Had a interesting job to do at a dealership. a manuretank had seezed up pin and bushings in the triangle from the hitch. (had a automated grease system where the owner never looked after..) first came there to have a look at it and i was hoping to bring out the thermic lance, but the situation wasn't right to bring out the big guns, so we decided to get the cheapest guy at the shop and have him bandsaw the pins to get the hitch out, so i could replace the bushings. machined a mock-up pin to line-up the whole thing. also replaced the ears on the chassis from the manure tank, was easier this way then to line-bore it. was a nice job with a few bits that we machined which is nice.
Then it was clambshell time again. had a 4m3 that needed some TLC, took the thing apart and had to line bore the whole thing. in the next post i will post some more pics, if you see the pins or what was left from it you kinda get a feel for the work that was involved in getting it back to shape. this is a bucket from 1998 so not to bad for his first big overhaul.
here are the pins from the middle link.. the middle link pretty badly torn up.. welding up the sections where the supports/stops will be when the bucket is open and is starting to dig, the supports/stops are also replaced for new ones, very important to have these supports/stops on there and to have them fully supported otherwise the cilinders will be badly damaged.
machining the mainbody off the clambshell. This costumer has also a line-boring machine and i had to pick up some speed to get it done as quick as possible. Always nice to have two machines running.
The main body off the clambshell had a big crack on the bothsides off the body. cleaned it all up and welded it back shut.
had a small on site welding job, a D6 needed some wearplates on the side, so it could run for a few weeks before it goes back into the shop for some more repairs. on the clambshell there was one line that i wasnt able to line-bore due to the place off the ears. so i decided to cut the bushings out and welded in some new ones and made them on size with a hand-machining tool to make the bores on tolerance.
Then after a lot off hours it was time to put the clambshell back together and weld in some new knives to make it close a 100% Always handy a few weldstands
worked on a VT50 demolition shear last week. I think next week i need to line-bore the shear insert and crusher insert which have worn-out pivots..
also had a frame from a track-dumper which needed line-boring out the pivot point off the wheelsets Always handy a small enginecrane also have put in some new TL lights in the shop, looks like daylight now pretty happy with the results off just chanching the lights.. didnt knew it would make that much difference
made a adapter plate for a Claas tractor. Owner has ordered the gearbox thinking he had a aftermarket frontlift (without pto) but he had a Original frontlift so the box didn't fit. machined a plate for it and it just fit it, had only 2mm play left after grinding off a few spots.. so the owner got Lucky right there! was actually cheaper to machine a plate with all the extra hours etc then to order a Original kit.. so not to bad at all.
today i've been working on a smaller concrete demolition shear. it needed some new teeth, had some new inserts machined and welded them in today. hopefully i can get back on it on Friday. the knife holders need some building up and i need to weld some spots when the shear is standing upwards instead of laying flat. also i need to put some hardfacing on it again. worked out pretty nice so far.
well guys gonna hit the hay overhere,i'll try to post some pics off the shear when its done. hava good one and till next time.
Hello Bumach. Very nice job and pics! How many hours you need for line bored all holes on the clamshell?
Very nice work! What grade steel did you use on the concrete shear/muncher repair?
Your work looks good lots of variety.
I like how you use the stingers when welding. Makes for a very professional job just cut them off when done and edges are perfect. More people should be doing that as well.
Stingers, i.e. weld on-weld off tabs. Agree more welders should use stingers.
Are stingers the same as run off strips ? I like the idea. Nice work !
Yep, same beast and 'run on tabs'. Run on tab allows the weld-rod or wire to establish its' 'gas shielding' @ arc start.
Hi Mink, I think i had something like 4-5 days worth off line boring. With this bucket i didnt do all the hinges on the clambs cause they where good. To do all the points, incl the complete bodyframe and all pivots in the clambs i will take 2 weeks roughly. A rebuild like this clambshell will take roughly 160man hours. With machine a few parts here and there. Cheers
Hi, its Carcoxplus 400. Its a bit in the middle off a Hardox 400 with the weldability of a Weldox 500. The shear normaly is a forged piece off steel with HB off 450+/- We go down a bit on the inserts just to prevent cracks and 400 is hard enough to do a good job.
I agree to, i rarely see them being used while its so quick to set up.. Otherwise you usely get those sacked corners and you need to spotfill those up. Where usely on the edge(critical point) its not the best to start/stop the weld. Its easy and quick to use.
BuMach, I came over from Tom’s thread and read your posts. Line boring has me intrigued, thanks for the photos and look forward to more.
jonno634, Try Facebook group: portable line boring