Anybody have any experience with this conversion on a 4 cylinder natural gas engine? The old control is done. I have traced all the wires and it looks possible, but I don't see a governor box. The actuator in the photo has only: run power (2)--the same wire as the NG solenoids, 9E ground wire, and the two shielded speed sensor wires off of the flywheel sensor. Does this actuator govern as well--picture below. The rest of the stuff on the engine side of the flywheel-housing: temp, coolant level, start relay and ignition look straightforward to move to another controller.
You have a model/Serial for what you're working on? Or at least a model for the actuator?
Woodward P/N: 8928-7095 S/N: 14893717 Cust P/N: 71395 10-32V 2.5A Date 07/02
Yeah, that led nowhere through Woodward (no shock since it's 22 years old). Model/ser of the machine?
hi perkins LCG
Um, thanks for that.
I tested spark with a remote starter and an in line spark tester--spark was there--gas solenoids powered--hooked it up to gas-- start; no run power--put run on a bat-handle-switch: positive batt to positive on coil, switched by hand to prevent flood--engine runs well and smooth. Zip-tied a small engine inductive RPM/ hour metre from amazon to coil wire and it read 3610, but it could have been on twin mode--so probably 1805. Had to leave on a call after that and it is back on a skid in the shop. I hope that with a Dynagen type controller--start and run relays, temp, coolant level, oil pressure sensor, and oil pressure switch, it is safe to run this machine. As a sidenote, why so many coolant level sensors on these types of machines? So, the answer to my original question is solved that with power ground and tach this machine will run at the right RPM. Now it is a matter of making the engine run safe and the generator make power.
If the actuator fails though, I guess we figure out another way. Sorry I neglected this thread, equipment breaks--this old guy is a side project.