i think i have to split my ford 555 because i suspect the transmission oil pump pick up filter has come off. thanks to that guy who replied to my thread about trouble with my torque converter problem. the torque converter it doesn't work in forward or reverse when facing up hill.we can bring it back to life by extending the stabiliser legs, when we push into a pile of gravel we can spin rear wheels in 2nd or first gear so we think torque converter is ok. oil level is full in gear box. what do you think?
I haven't wrenched on a 555 so I can't offer advice on the splitting but I have seen people change out oil dipsticks for one reason or another and put longer ones in place which results in improper oil fill levels... just a thought
If you can spin the wheels in 1st and 2nd, your TC and Trans Oil Pump are working. If you have no reverse when facing uphill, I'd rule out the linkage. Linkage problems usually happen in F or R, but not both. You may have the answer. The screen may have come loose and fallen out or the o-ring is defective. You could test that theory with a pressure gauge before you split it. At least you'd know she's breaking suction. From what I remember, there is a passage in the casting between the shuttle compartment and the gear compartment located in the bottom center of the bulkhead between the shuttle and the gear compartment. You might be able to pull the gear shift cover and fish around to see if the bolt that retained the pickup screen is laying in the bottom of the transmission. You may see some other evidence related to a failed screen. You have to drain the transmission anyway so you're not loosing too much ground by doing this. You haven't mentioned whether this is a job you can do in your sleep or what kind of resources you have at your disposal. Splitting the tractor is something you can do. The problem is you may find some other things in that shuttle that need attention and parts aren't cheap. If you aren't shuttle savy, a manual is a huge plus. Be prepared to replace every o-ring and gasket while you're in there. It's cheap insurance. I can't think of any other reason she'd be loosing F and R at the same time when the nose is up. If I think of something, I'll let you know.
thanks for that. it really helped my clear my mind about the idea i had which was the same as yours.
I mentioned your dump valve in another thread but I didn't explain the issue and forgot to mention it again. Ol Grump is right on the money. It would be a good idea to figure out if the dump valve is shutting off oil flow to the shuttle and redirecting it to the sump. There is an electric solenoid on the valve. When the solenoid gets power, the shuttle looses hydraulic power and coasts. It's possible you have a wiring problem that is sending power to the solenoid, terminating all F and R motion. It wouldn't hurt to unplug the solenoid and see if the problem goes away.
ok but would that solve the problem of loosing drive facing up hil
Look on the left side of your transmission to see if your 555 has a dump valve. My parts book covers the 555 but after looking at the date codes on the dump valve parts, the dump valve may not have been been introduced until the very late editions of the 555 and then became standard on the 555A. Your machine may not have one. The dump valve is a hydraulic valve that is actuated by an electric solenoid. When the solenoid receives power, the valve directs hydraulic pressure to the transmission sump. At that time you loose all hydraulic pressure in the transmission and all forward motion. There should be two switches on your machine that power the dump valve; one on the floor and one on the loader stick. If you have an electrical problem that sends 12V to the dump valve when the machine's nose is pointing up, then the valve would open and the machine would stop. If you have a dump valve, just unplug the wire going to the solenoid and drive uphill. Here's a link to the parts diagram. http://www.messicks.com/NHC/48653.aspx Click on (03)- Transmission Then click on (07-B06) Control Valve, Manifold & Tubes. There's two different styles. The second style is (07-B07) Control Valve, Manifold & Tubes. If you have a dump valve, your machine should be equipped with (07-B06).
Can anyone give me a quick description of how to split a Ford 555D? I have a bad torque converter seal (puking fluid), and was ready to tear everything down to get at the shuttle until I talked with a Case/Deere mechanic who said that all I need to do is pullt the bell housing bolts and a few lines, support the front and rear sections, then pull the front section intact forward enough to access the shuttle pump housing. Sorry, I just joined the forum, so don't have permission yet to start a new thread.
First thing is get the manual. There will be directions for your model and exactly what you need to do. It's a pretty big job and me or somebody else giving you instructions is going to miss something, so get the manual. Next is the front and back sections are going to weigh something like 6,000 pounds each, so you need to figure out how you're going to safely support them and still have the ability to move one section away from the other to get to the torque convertor. My local Ford dealer has a heavy duty A frame on casters that they use to support the front half. Then they use a bunch of 6x6 lumber to support the rear. All of this is done on a smooth concrete floor. I think they chain another small tractor to the A frame to actually move it. I've seen others with access to another tractor use the front bucket chained to the dead one and a lot of lumber under the front half. I'm sure others will post on their home brew methods. I would suggest you check out the local dealers and see how they support the tractor. Doesn't have to be a Ford dealer, since most of the older hoes have pretty similar ways of assembly. Have fun.
<Many thanks! Guess I'd rather deal with two big pieces rather than many smaller ones. Does the cab need to come off as well?
Looks like manuals for the 555D are north of $400. Is this what I should expect, or is there a cheaper source?
I just bought the engine and "Separating the tractor" sections online, so I guess I'd better stock up on muscle building supplements! I sure appreciate the help. Many thanks.
Is that price from Helm? That is a business in the Detroit area that sells manuals for all the domestic production. I bought my Ford 5550 manual from them in '89, I think all the sections were about $125; I saved many times that doing my own repairs.
I just bought the three sections that deal with the engine, separating the tractor, and general service for about $42 per from eBay. I'm guessing that the $400-plus versions include all sections, and maybe even paint chips!
Helm's site doesn't show any tractor manuals. Only vehicles. Time has changed many of the old sources.
anyone know how to test the pressure and confirm the shuttle pump is operating? or how to test the dump valve?