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Steel for mini ex backfill blade weld repair

fast_st ยท 2019-02-14 18:11

So I'm doing some more overhauling, I was looking under the mini ex backfill blade, it had some kind of original edge welded on and that's all come apart and a big hole under the blade that was filled with dirt. I was shopping for AR400 for the repair but the local supplier has 1/2 inch ar400, $500 for two pieces of 6 inch flatbar 10' long. I was thinking, its just a backfill blade and well, snowplow cutting edges run about $100 each for 5/8 edges, 1/2 inch edges are less. I could pick up a 1/2 inch edge for the bottom and a 5/8 for the front edge. Its pretty hard steel and can't be left hanging in the wind too far. Any thing I'm missing?

Replies12
  1. #1hvy 1ton2019-02-14 18:28

    You only need AR plate for the cutting edge. The bottom of the blade is only worn through because someone let the cutting edge go too long. Any 1/2" plate would be overkill for replacing the bottom of the blade. I would be surprised if what was there was 1/4". You are going to want 1.5-2" of cutting edge below the blade so you don't have to bust out the welder for a while.

  2. #2fast_st2019-02-14 18:42

    But.. I like overkill! Yeah the bottom of the blade is 10ga at best, I do have some 1/4 inch AR actually that's scrap, couple 4' pieces. I was wondering the differences between what a hard snowplow cutting edge is and AR steels. I've used new and recycled plow edges as some grousers with good success, they seem to wear really well. AR400 has a specification but I can't seem to find something of a standard for typical snow blade cutting edges.

  3. #3Georgia Iron2019-02-16 21:34

    Ar400 is over kill. I replaced my bottom edge on my tb145 with mild steel. Used mild 1/2" plate. When it wears out the machine will be toast. If you have any doubts put some 1" on that beast....

  4. #4John C.2019-02-17 10:49

    I've replaced a half a dozen of those over the years. All I've seen on that little weld on piece of strap from the factory was soft like mild steel. I've replaced the first edge and welded up the bottom and by the next time they bring the machine back all the push structure is cracked as well. Anything you do will be better than what the factory did.

  5. #5fast_st2019-02-20 08:18

    Well, I'm about to swap my snowplow edge, It's going to be 9 feet of 5/8 4 or 5 inches wide high carbon steel, if my searching is correct, just weld up the square holes and tie it in nicely, then some thinner plate on the bottom after cleaning out all the goop.

  6. #6elkjunkie2019-03-08 22:46

    Just did the blade on my tb135 used some 1/2 scrap from an old shop at work and 1/4 for the bottom. The piece I used on the edge dimpled with a punch but so did the old edge I cut off.

  7. #7Bumpsteer2019-03-09 00:17

    The cuttinng edge for my Meyer snowplow is 1080... Ed

  8. #8fast_st2019-03-09 07:04

    I did a repair of a tractor bucket with a 5/8" x 9" cutting edge, covered the heel of the bucket with it and with a few years of heavy grading its not showing any wear beyond about 1/16. Cutting edge steel seems to wear really well. I'm a little surprised that the backfill blades on minis are so very un armored.

  9. #9Georgia Iron2019-03-09 18:40

    that is exactly what i did to mine when i got it. 1/4 on the bottom and 1/2 in front made the 1/2 a little wider than the old one to have something to weld to. the only difference i see is i left mine on the machine and welded it from under neath. what a pia...

  10. #10Don.S2019-03-09 21:29

    How many hours do you guys have on all these machines? The 35d I run has over 5000 hours and I dont think the blade is showing much wear at all.

  11. #11fast_st2019-03-10 14:57

    10,000 and change, completely wallowed out underneath.

  12. #12elkjunkie2019-03-10 22:49

    My tb135 is over 7K. I had the blade off because the bushings were missing and the blade face was bent upwards about 20 degrees. I used a cat 312 to straighten it out. I can barely weld upright. I can't imagine trying that from underneath.