I was greasing my driveline when I spotted this odd critter. It's a wire in a rubber hose, twisted around the shaft just behind the throwout bearing. Is this a standard part of an Eaton 9-speed behind an 855 Big Cam? Or did somebody put that in there? Everything seems to be working fine, a little throwout bearing noise, which was why I greased it.
This is on my 1984 International S2500 dump truck...
My guess is someone put that there because they didn't know how to adjust the clutch properly . That's gonna pull out you input shaft seal, if it grabs right.
Well for starters-not to dump on FunWithFuel--But there is no front seal on the input shaft, it uses a reverse screw to push oil out of bearing retainer. The gap between throwout bearing and clutch brake is enormous, Without the hose and wire between clutch brake and transmission front bearing retainer is around 1"-should be a 1/2" gap. The friction surface on the clutch brake is gone on the front side. I believe someone stuck that crap in there because two splines that the clutch brake lock into are wiped out. Probably needs a clutch, flywheel turned, cross shaft bushings, pilot bearing, clutch brake and input shaft. Look for the sticky on clutches under this forum.
I have installed two clutch brakes on some that ran for a long time but that is amazing. Adjusting them to work is a little different.
So given what you see, I have no effective clutch brake now? When the truck is fully warm, it's hard to get into gear. I have to wait ...
I experimented today while hauling. If I push the clutch pedal down fully to the firewall, the tranny will stop spinning. But it takes a while. I bet if I had a real clutch brake in there, it would be quicker. We observed that as I push the pedal down, that ring (A) moves to the rear of the truck, which is to the right in this pic. That rubber ring contraption (B) seems to actually work. A little.
That clutch needs a internal adjustment-if the internal adjusting ring turns. Everything you need to know is below. https://www.daytonparts.com/dpweb/App_11/Dist_site/literature/225/DP_Clutch_TS_Guide_print.pdf HeavyEquipmentForums
I spent a lot of time on a reply and went to fetch a picture. All my stuff is gone but here is the picture. This one is a Mack so the fork is upside down from yours. It still works the same way. The fork is worn down from rubbing on the pressure plate adjuster. If you try to adjust your clutch out you will probably be in the same boat. The old brake is hid behind the fork and I added another. With yours I would grind the friction material off on side of a new 2 piece clutch brake. Put that side in front of the one brake that is already there. Try to adjust internal for 3/8" gap with free play held out and about 1" free play. I had explained a lot of how that stuff works and why these things are done. In the end Truck Shop is correct. My picture is from a just purchased farm truck that will almost never on the road. Pressure plate is not even rusted yet but all that stuff TS mentioned is worn out. Installed a second brake and will try to get by with it.
Can probably feel the clutch pedal chatter when depressed. In RHD's photo you just make out that the fork has been making contact with internal plate adjuster.