So after my complete go through of my machine, I was all set to do some clearing. In about 90 minutes I got more cleared out then I thought I was gonna get done in a day. it was so awesome until a track fell off. I think it was over-tight, but I was being an idiot and turning on a slight hill -anyway, it's nobody's fault but mine and gravity won...the track fell off. I've changed them a few times, so I know (sort of.. kinda) what I'm doing. I got the track on the sprocket and it lays flat under the machine... here's the thing. I can't get the idler pushed back. Yes. I pulled out the relief screw and tried pushing it back with a prybar. No dice. Pulled the grease fitting out too. Nothing. Put a log between the bucket and the idler and tried to push it back that way. Maybe a squirt of grease came out. Chain jack from the middle of the yoke to the end of the frame. Nothing. Oh - it'll take grease and move out... I just can't relieve the pressure. Weird? Doesn't appear to be any rust or bolts on the idler assembly - i thought maybe something was just frozen up. Is there something I'm missing? I spent all day trying to move that critter back and I entertained thoughts of just torching a piece out of the rod, and then welding another one in when I've got the track back on. - but if i do that and the idler still doesn't move, i still won't get the track on. Anyway, though maybe some of you experts might pick up on something moronic I'm doing. Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and thanks for putting up with my annoying questions!
I've always taken the zero loose or out and shoved 'em back with the bucket or blade, normally it does not take all that much pressure but if I were you I would cut a 4x6 or something the right length and continue trying it until you are sure the tensioner is seized, it is in likely that you will ever get it shoved back with a pry bar........although on second thought I have always used the blade/bucket so I honestly have no idea if a prybar will do it or not, guess it depends if its a 8"screwdriver or a 7' rock bar lol.. I know it's not much help but it's my $.02 anyways lol Pj
Another Q' are you sure your taking out the whole bleeder screw or just the zerk?........ Basically Is it 1/2"long with a 9/32" head or 2"long with something like a 3/4" ?
Thanks powerjoke. Yea, I'm just flummoxed. Imma throw a saw in the truck tomorrow and cut a proper fitting log and try that in there. Both bolts are all the way out. The relief screw and the zerk - the 15/16 that the zerk sits in is out too.
Yair . . . didjit . I don't know the machine and how the idler slides but have you checked that nothing is actualy holding the idler like a jammed slide bar or wear plate? . . . or as I've seen a time or two some thing welded in there to keep the idler forward. Another happy thought. As I said I don't know the machine but is there any chance you have a broken through bolt on your recoil spring and the whole assembly has moved forward? Cheers.
There's a few weak plates in there, but they dont appear to be jammed. If i pull the side cover off again, I'll check for sure. The spring is good. I was able to back the tensioner in maybe 1/2 inch.
Didjit, those smaller loaders will jam up over time. Any time we did an UC job when the idler was forced back all the way, we pumped in some grease and made sure it would move. If not you installed the new UC and couldn't adjust the track. If it was jammed we tightened up the spring to lift it out and bolted a press on the adjuster cyl and forced it out, cleaned it up and reinstalled it. You will notice your front pilot of the recoil spring is leaning forward. That plus rust and dirt will cause the adjuster cyl to bind up and not move. Later Bob
If possible remove the zerk from the fitting and put a hydraulic porta power on it..
well, it turns out that one of the retainers for the recoil spring rusted out, and the whole shooting match has moved up about 2 inches. I would imagine, herein lies the problem. How do I go about pulling the spring back? Is this something I want to mess with, or do I let a pro deal with this? I'm looking through my manuals and the picture of the dude with the WARNING label looks like this is serious business. Bummer. All I wanted to do for Christmas was push some dirt
Ouch! you have a messy situation there. I thin you said the Anchors have come loose of the track frame, allowing the front pilot to extend out as far as the recoil spring center bolt will allow. Assuming the bolt is not broken. Could you take off all track frame tinware and post a pic or two so we can help you better. Need to see both ends of the spring. This is a DANGEROUS situation be careful. Later Bob
Sounds to me like you gotta split the track, remove idler , yoke and spring assembly and then do your repairs.... look at the bright side, when your done, your track will be back on,.
Yair . . . didjit I mentioned up-thread it could be a recoil spring issue. As I said I don't know your machine or quite understand the problem but I can assure you anything to do with recoil springs can be a big deal. I would advise you at least get some professional advise before attempting repairs. Stay safe. Cheers.
Thanks! Yes, that's precisely it. There are two anchors, one on each side of the track frame. One is completely gone, and the other is about 2 inches behind the top pilot of the spring. The one that's missing looks like the bolts sheared off in the track frame. All the tin is off. I'll post some pictures tomorrow (i didn't take any today) Merry Christmas!
Here's what you need to do But after Christmas. I think the danger can be minimimized but wait untill wed, need two good hands to eat turkey. From the sound of things the spring must be out on the bolt now. Handle with care, think of it as a 5 gal pail of nitroglycerin. If you can pry the spring side to side freely then take the 4 bolts out of the front flange of the adjuster cylinder. Then with help carefuly lift the spring out and into your truck. Take to a good shop and get the center bolt and nut replaced. Don't save money here, life is too short. They will compress spring to Installation length. Let me see a good pic of the front pilot to make sure the side ears are in good shape. Take a side pic of the anchor where the ear slides too. I will see if it's reusable or you need two. They are held down by two bolts each and located with one dowel. When the spring is compressed with new bolt and anchor holes are cleaned out it can be installed and fastened in place with the anchors. The seized track adjuster cyl can be forced out, cleaned up and lubed when unit is apart. Clean outside of cyl and lube before pressing spring, If it moves with lube on it, it may come apart easy. rotect the front surface of the cyl as seals fit there. Later Bob