My swing cylinder needs to be rebuilt, I saw one video on YouTube and they rebuilt the cylinder on the machine. I wanna take it off and then take it in to be rebuilt but one pins easy to pop out but I can’t fiqure out how to get the pivot pin out. There is a cross bar with two bolts on each side is removing the cross bar the only way to remove the swing cylinder? By removing the cross brace? HELP
It's usually a lot easier to leave the barrel on and just take the rod out if it just needs new seals. Just reading on here getting the pins out and getting the barrel off can be a real PIA.
I left the cylinder on when I redid mine also. In fact, I have rebuilt over the years every cylinder on the back of my 480c, which is mostly the same as your 580c, and I left all the cylinders in place. Unless your cylinder looks damaged, leave it in place. You can still take the gland nut and the piston in and let someone else put the seals in. Then just put it back together on the tractor.
Ya, in doing my research I found that out. It doesn’t seem like it’s an easy job to get the ram off. I’m trying to find a mechanic up here in Chico ca. and I’m having a tuff time. Looks like I’ll have to bust of the gland nut myself and then take it in to a hydraulic place to put the seals on. On one of my other cylinders I couldn’t bust the gland nut loose. I stoped because I didn’t want to kill my cousin who was holding the spanner wrench on the gland nut. I had like a 4 foot cheater bar so I had the leverage. Ready tidy left the Lucy. I assuming the gland nuts not reversed threads? I’m dead in the water right now. Thank you for getting back to me.
did you take out the little screw between the barrel and the head ? then tap around the barrel where the head screws in to vibrate the threads a little.
I’ve felt all around barrel and don’t feel any screw head. I’d rather hire a mechanic to take it out but I’ve been asking around and haven’t found one. It looks like I’m going to have to give it a go. I haven’t tried breaking this cylinders gland nut loose. It was a dipper cylinder I tried to break loose before. I think it will help with it still on the tractor and not in a vice on a work bench. Wish me luck. I’ll keep you posted. I’ve got 200 tons of dirt to move and I don’t want to have to rent a backhoe. Thanks again for the responses. Ty bill
#11 is a very small screw and can easily be overlooked especially if the screw head is sheared off.
Getting someone to work these days is difficult to say the least! If you have a hydraulic shop in your area, and you don't want to do the seal replacement, you can bring them the rod assy. and they will repack it for you. I know, this doesn't help with getting the gland nut loose, but haves the work of removing the entire cylinder from the machine. Once the gland nut is loose, make sure the hoses are loose in order to let air in, or you will not be able to pull the rod out.
You should have a screw or a hole where it was. I believe they are called "blind dutchmen". They drill a hole in the "crack", half of the hole on the gland and half on the cylinder tube. This locks it in place. Someone mentioned above tapping on the cylinder to help get the gland loose. This is a big deal I found out. I could not get the gland nuts loosed myself until someone on here mentioned doing that. Take a decent sized hammer and firmly hit the end of the cylinder where the threads are for the gland. You will be hitting directly on top of the threads of the gland, but they are underneath the cylinder where you are hitting. And these are more than taps. You do not want to rare back and put a ding in the cylinder, but you want to strike it with a firm blow with the hammer head flat on the surface. Go around several times, and you will be amazed how easily the gland comes undone. P.S. Before you start all this, start the tractor and extend the cylinder. That will be less oil that spills out. It is also good if you can to point the back of the tractor slightly up hill. Just to cut down on the mess a little bit. Once you get the gland loose, get another little tractor or truck, park behind the hoe and hook a come-along between the ram shaft and the other in moveable object to pull the ram out of the cylinder. This cylinder being down low won't be too bad, but I always find a piece of cardboard to cushion and protect the ram as it flies out of the cylinder and hits the ground.
I hate to ask what this job to a shop will cost in California
For the ca. cost of rebuilding the cylinders has been around $250. That’s when I’ve taken them off and put them back on. There is a company in Chico Thomas Hydraulics that will rebuild them in a few days. I couldn’t find my spanner wrench for the Gland nuts so I’ve ordered a new one off Amazon.it should be here tomorrow so I’ll give it a go on Monday. I’ll get a nice size breaker bar so I’ll have all the leverage I need. I’ll tap on it as well but before I get going I’ll find that little screw.
Ok, I today was the day. This gland nut was nothing like the last one I tried to take off. It loosened up with little effort all and there isn’t any screw on the swing cylinder. I don’t even see a hole for one either . Not on the one I took or the other. On the other cylinders on the tractor the screws are very obvious. Tomorrow I’ll be taking it over to Thomas Hydraulics in Chico. $250 was what they charged me last time for the rebuild but that was bringing in the whole cylinder so we’ll see how much the charge for just putting the seals on the rod. I think I’ve put to much hydraulic fluid in it now so where’s the best place to drain some out. Thanks for all your responses.
If the oil is clean save it in a clean pail for later. Maybe you could use a little pump to take some oil out of the fill hole?
wait to lower the level until the rebuild is complete. The level will go down some when you use the rebuilt cylinder for the first time. If it is not extremely overfilled, I wouldn't get to excited.
Wait tell you get the cylinder back on and have operated it before draining out fluid Swetz beat me
Ok, wonderful news I took the swing rod in yesterday and it’s ready to pick it up. Don’t know my cost yet I’ll find out tomorrow. Now comes bleeding it correctly? Here’s how I’d think to do it. Hook up the lines on the tractor. Leave the lines broke open a little Run it back an forth a few times. Compress the cylinder tighten the nut open and close the ram Extend the ram and close the nut. Do it a few more times. Any advice would be helpful. Does this sound right? I have some cylinders that I have had rebuilt before and I think I should bleed them again as well. Ty bill
I’ll be back in business. I’ve got maybe 200 tons of dirt to move and get compacted and tested. I just hope I get it done before I blow another cylinder. I think this is my 5 cylinder I’ve got rebuilt. I think there 12 cylinders on the backhoe so I’m almost half way there on getting them all done.
I never have bled air out of a cylinder. You can do it if you want to but it isn’t needed.
I don’t get it. I thought you had to bleed them. It a 580c case. If I don’t have to bleed them great. I did read somewhere where the air goes to the hydraulic tank and bleeds off that way. Is this the case with my “case” I like that case with my case Bill
At some point I’d like to do the hydraulic filter. I just don’t want to do it now if I’m going to have to bleed everything
You don't have to bleed anything. Just work the cylinder in and out a few times and you're good to go. No need to loosen the hoses and spill oil every wear. Just make sure the hyd. tank has enough oil.
after install, swing the boom to its extremes several times, and it should self bleed. Be sure to check the fluid after that is complete.
You can change the hydraulic oil filter at any time. It has no relationship to any bleeding procedure.
No bleeding is needed !!
I would like to change the filter but didn’t by one but if I can do it anytime that’s great. I got my swing rod back with the new seals on it. The Chico ca price was $216 bucks. They did it in one day so I’m a happy camper. Now I just have to put it on. I’m sure I’ll be rebuilding others I just hope I can get my damn house “out of the ground “ I had a super k before now have a 580 C seems like the super K had more power but the C still digs so I’m happy to have it. Oh and the K was an extended hoe. I do like that. Thank you all for the advice.
Putting seals on a cylinder rod sounds like good business. $216 just to put some seals on just like you took them off? Get brave next time and try one yourself. You can get a kit off ebay for around $30. The hardest part is getting the nut loose that holds the piston in place.
I’ve got some threads screwed up on the cylinder. Does anyone know what threads are used for the hydraulic hoses.ive got a thread restore kit with UNC, UNF and metric thread chasers. I think could be JIC threads or there’s others NPT,BSP, NPT. It’s awful confusing. Bill
On a Case it will be JCB on the hoses and ORBS on the valves and cylinders.
Two major divisions of threads in the hose world, pipe threads or straight threads of various types. NPT or pipe threads are tapered and will not have a o-ring for sealing, they seal with the taper on the threads. The other types are straight machine threads, they seal using a o-ring setup or a tapered seat of some type.
Ok this is what I found. Looks like it’s fairly simple. All I’ll need is a SAE chaser. The straight threads have specific pitch and diameter requirements, standardized by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Such standardization ensures the compatibility of ORB fittings across different manufacturers and applications. Ty Franklin and Harley
I just need to get the hose started. The threads aren’t bad. So I just need the SAE thread chaser
Ok I’ve got the treads chased. The final verdict: the tap and die I got was a UNF 3/4-16 tap and die. One problem resolved now hopefully I can get through a few day without blowing anything else. I have to remove the old septic tomorrow and continue getting the pad of the house ready for compaction tests. I’ve got a lot of dirt to move.