Morning, Yesterday left side of track not spinning, motor was spinning but not sprocket, took off track and sprocket and looks like the plate that bolts to the sprocket was not grabbing the drive motor. Anyone ever had this happen?
Ok so I figured out what was broke, the end case of drive motor has separated, ordered new motor. Having problems getting the 8 bolts off to take off motor. There is a nut on the inside of the bolt and seems to have little to access to get a wrench on nut. Suggestions?
I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 3" extension, and short 15/16" socket for a back up for nuts on back side NCPIPE, then use an impact on bolt heads on outside. Who did you order new drive motor from?
Check you case drain filters for metal. most of the time when the end fails, the rest of the motor chews itself up. If you find a lot of metal in the case drain, you need to go threw the system to get the metal out. Do you have power bob tach? The valve is mounted to the back of the pump and will catch any crap in the system. Guys seem to notice power bob tach don't work before they notice the drive problem.
I ordered it from my local bobcat dealer, Triangle Equipment. Think it was $2700 and change. Plus I need a new sprocket. All the bolt holes on sprocket are stripped out.
Yes I have a bob tach system, how do I go about checking the system for metal?
pull and dump the hyd filter into a clean container, check for metal chunks and brass pull the case drain filter, clean the case drain hoses, drain the hyd tank. depending on the level of contamination you find, it might be a good idea to replace the hyd oil cooler. powerbobtach valve, aux solenoids :drinkup
Where is the case drain filter? What is the best way to empty the hydr tank?
There are two case drains on a T190, one for each motor. Lift the cab and look inside, there will be two inline filters laying on the bottom. They can be kinda pain in the butt to get at. Remove one hose and unscrew the top, then remove the brass filter. The left side will make a mess since the hose goes right to the bottom of the tank. To drain it, personally I pump it out.
That's what I do, remove the large allen head plug in top of hyd tank and pump the oil out. The case drain filter will give you the best indication of the degree of motor failure. It sounds like your motor broke the output shaft. In many cases like that, no damage was done to the motor internals, the components that handle the hydraulic oil circuit, so many times a bunch of debris is not released into system. On the other hand, if the case drain filter has a lot of debris in it, better drain tank and look closely for carnage residue in bottom of tank. And as crewchief suggested, remove main hyd filter, empty contents into clean pan to check for debris, then pour some solvent into filter, place hand over top, shake contents, and empty again looking for brass and debris. BTW, like bobcatdan said, there's two case drain filters in the belly of the machine, one for each motor. If you don't know what you're looking for, they look like aluminum cylinders, about 1 1/2" in diameter, appx 3 - 4 inches long with a hose connection to each end.
Ok I follow on the hydr filter and pumping out of tank, that is what I did last time to another machine. I also follow on the case drain filters I believe I have 2 in the box in my shop, would like to just replace does anyone have a picture of 1 on the machine?
Sorry NCPipe, was working on an S205 today but didn't think to snap a pic of case drain filter. This is the only thing I have on my computer, from a 753 C series, case drain filter on that machine is fitted to bottom of hyd tank behind seat. On your machine, there's two of these "aluminum canisters" down in the innards of the machine.
Thanks Willie, if you get a chance to snap a pic of a more relevant machine do that for me. Thanks again everyone!
Sorry NCPipe, I got hung up all day getting a Komatsu CD110 dumper ready for rental on Monday morning, never got a chance to pop the cab on a T190 today. I might get a chance to first of the week if you don't get any info before then.
I think I have found the 2 you were speaking of, one going from bottom of tank, other going to hydrostatic drive motor. Does this sound correct?
Yes.
I have an 873, two days ago lost traction to left rear wheel. Today finally got access plates removed to reveal that the sprocket weld had actually broken from the hud and the sproket is spinning on hub. have repair manual to attempt to repair myself, however cant seem to get the sprocket bolt to break free, any suggesstions!
That is pretty much that same situation that had happened to my T190. When you say sprocket I am guessing that it is a track machine? Most 873 I have seen are wheeled machines. Please confirm. I simply impacted off the 6 or 8 bolts holding the sprocket to drive motor, and pulled off, the motor was another story, 15/16 half in breaker bar with 3" extension to hold nuts while I impacted off, 4 hoses, and a sensor and lift that 100lb monster off! New parts for my machine should be here today I am hoping tired of looking at her down.
To remove the spocket bolt. Put a wrench on it and rotate it where it stay. Tale a long prybar and turn the outside hub to break the bolt loose. I tighten them the same way. From there, a flat porta power ram works good for pushing the axle out. The sprocket breaking like that was kinda common on 873s, I have seen good weld shop repair them and hold up.
Today was the first day since repairs and my guys called and said they are getting an active warning for the hydraulic fluid overheating. Any ideas why this would be?
Did you ever find out if there is metal in the system? The cooler could be plug. When I have drive motor failures or others that fill the system with metal, I change the cooler. Is the engine fine or is that getting hot too?
I didn't find any metal to speak of, found a little metallic tinge to the hydraulic fluid when I changed the filter, So I pumped out as much of the reservoir as I could, the changed the 2 case filters and the main hydraulic filter. The hydraulic cooler is the one on the top under the metal cover correct?
Just talked to my guys out in the field with the machine, they said it got hot and gave the warning first thing this morning which was the first time for actual use since the repair, then said ran fine for another couple hours, and then one more hot, has not happened since then. ???
So I have the machine in the yard today ran it around for 30 minutes or so pushing dirt piles around, did not overheat, what is the normal operating range of hydraulic fluid in a t190? I am right running at around 150. Guys said that on Friday it would over heat and shut down said it did it 4 times.
might be something as simple as a loose connection at the temp switch. if you do get a high temp warning, verify the hyd oil temp, if it's normal, and you have a hi temp warning, it's probably in the switch or wiring to the switch.
What is normal operating temp?
Low to mid 100's if just using the machines. Running constant flow attachments will raise it higher. Been a long time since I had to check it on a machine, but the rule of thumb I use is never hotter then the engine. Bobcats have a very good cooling system, as long as the radiator isn't packed with crap.
Running a constant flow Auger today, and it is running hot again and the T190 goes into shut down mode to protect the equipment, going out to field to measure temps before filter and after and before and after cooler, would the case drain filters that I replaced have anything to do with this? If a filter is plugged up enough it will not flow through cooler properly correct? Would it be wise to replace all filters again and re check, or what do you think is the proper steps?
I'm wondering if it is actually getting hot, if the cooler is plugged. I replace the cooler when I have a motor go. There is no way to flush them, I think bobcat recommands it. I think you said the oil had a metal shine to it, that means there is metal in it. Did you stick a magnet in the sump to see if there is any metal in the bottom of the tank?
No on the magnet, good idea though. Only gets hot when aux hydru are used. Ideas?
What attachments is the machine running, is it possible the attachment is generating high heat? Next question, is this a G or K series? G's have a belt driven cooling fan. K's have a 2 speed hyd fan. If there is a problem, the fan should run on high all the time, but if for some reason it is not switching, I could see the system is gettting hot. Run the machine and stand next to it. High idle with the aux turned on dead headed, it shouldn't take long to kick to high. One other thing, is the cooler and radiator clean?
Yes the fan runs, and then after a few minutes you hear it kick up real loud. I assume this is high? I believe that it is a hyd fan. I have not taken out the radiator or hyd cooler at this time, waiting for the tool to come in so I can take off those crazy hoses. Would the direction of the case drain filters be the issue? Could I have installed one or both backwards?
I really can't see how putting them in backwards could case a problem, it is just a brass element.
check the rad and cooler for debris, lift and support the cooler,( you dont need to remove it) and clean the radiator out. the case drain filters will have different surface area on opposite ends, the aluminum housing is marked IN & OUT. small end of the element has the spring over it, that end goes into the housing, cap end has the spring inside it, and seals on the flat "O" ring in the cap. if all else fails.... i'm wondering when the last time the software was updated? i'm thinking there was an upgrade to change the temp when the fan ramped up, but i may be wrong, it's been a while back, like around v60 or so? :beatsme :drinkup