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T190 Starting/Moving issue

Gage · 2009-12-03 21:51

I just picked up my first Bobcat T190 (Track). I'm having a problem while trying to start the machine. It makes a terrible grinding noise and tracks start to move forward when turning over. I've got to hold the controls to keep them from moving also. It has to be full throttle and keep pushing the start button about ten times before it starts up. Once running I cant go under half throttle because it starts jumping around and turning to the right. I'm mechanically inclined but very new at this so any help would be appreciated. Also I think the tracks need to be tightened up… They feel loose… but again, I'm very new at this. Thanks'

Replies15
  1. #1willie592009-12-03 23:51

    You've got a problem with your drive centering device. Common problem on Bobcats. Will have to get back to you tommorow, time to check out for me, someone may post a fix in the meantime.

  2. #2Hardline2009-12-04 01:02

    On top of the drive pumps is the centering devise. It will look like a flat plate that has a spring on one side. Confirm that this is there. The next step is to confirm that the small aluminum arms (they look almost like a T) that mount on the trunions of the drive pumps are tight and in good condition. They have a square and will have a pinch bolt that keeps them tight. If all that looks good you will see the 3/8 bolts in the top of the plate. Loosen these bolts and adjust the bars that keep the levers centered. The correct way to do it if you have a way to lift all tires is to block up the machine and start it to let the tires rotate. Be care full to not get into the tires. I usually do not have the luxury of raising the machine so I have to go back and forth from to the cab to keep testing. JJ

  3. #3Gage2009-12-04 12:46

    Thanks for the tip...I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you guy's know how I did. Thanks again

  4. #4bobcatmechanic2009-12-04 18:31

    as said above raise and block the machine if possible. also if you have a big block of wood to put under the machine use the bucket and lift the machine off the ground as high as it will go slide the block as far back as posssible and let it back down raising the back of the machine off the ground. then use the bucket to keep the front up a railroad tie sized peice of wood is about what you need. then raise the cab check the pintle arms and the steering bushings to make sure they are in good condition. if they are as said above there will be 2 bolts per side on top of the neutral plate loosen them and also how new is the machine. if its a k series or late g series then the procedure will be diffrent. if its older then you have to loosen both sides get the left track neutralled before doing the right other wise you will fight your self getting it to neutral. the way i do it is loosen both bolts on one side tighten them till they are just snug then take a small hammer and tap the head of the bolt in the dirrection you need it to be neutral tighten the bolts down tight making sure you pull or push straight forward when doing it. otherwise you will have a problem pulling it back out of neutral when you tighten the bolts. make sure also the bar is tight to the pintle arm when you get done with the left side then do the same to the right side. let it down and then you will more than likely have to adjust the tracking. you do this by adjusting the steering linkage shorter or longer with the bolts in the middle mark you starting location with a scribe or white marker before loosing them so you know where it was. a little movement goes a long way on adjusting the tracking im talking about like a 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch at a time depending on how far out it is. more than likely you have a loose pintle arm and need to replace it it wont tighten up so dont try if it is loose get a new one. look at the shaft to make sure its not worn from where its been loose if it is. if it is you can weld it or try running with the new arm and bolt on it. sometimes it will go for a while other times you have to replace the shaft about 1500 to 1800 dollars parts and labor thats the best way to go if the shaft is worn bad. i have gotten away with welding them though so try that first. any more questions send me a pm and ill get back with you on it

  5. #5Gage2009-12-04 21:38

    Man……. This is not my day. So the machine's tracks were caked with mud. I got the power washer out and cleaned off everything the tracks and cab the whole thing. I wonted the machine clean before I started working on it. After that was done, I started driving it around just to see if I could find anything else wrong with it…you know…moving the bucket, arms up down while driving, just checking it out. While doing that I found this thing doesn't like doing two things at once. Here's what it's doing 1. Loss of power while driving straight full throttle moving the bucket or arms up or down. 2. Also an addition to my last post I forgot to mention, While trying to start it a terrible grinding noise and the tracks start to move forward when turning over, But I forgot to mention that the hand controls move FWD buy themselves with out me touching them. I've got to hold on to the left side with one hand, use my knee on the right side while pushing the start button with my right hand. I'm not sure if this is still the same fix as you guy's previously told me, I just figured I should ask before starting the fix. Thanks' Again

  6. #6willie592009-12-04 21:48

    Do you mean engine rpm drops under full load type loss of power? Or engine rpm hold, but machine slows down under load type of power loss? Pumps will squall like mad when drive pump neutral device out of adjustment because the parking brake is on and track is trying to drive. Once you get your centering problem resolved, that noise will go away.

  7. #7Hardline2009-12-04 23:11

    And yes if the centering plate is allowing the handles to start activating the pumps it will pull the handle further into the stroke esc. if the RPMs are at idle. JJ

  8. #8Gage2009-12-05 20:41

    I've got the machine off the ground now. While checking everything out before getting started I got alittle confused. Are the fasteners I need to loosen.....The 4 fasteners on top of the neutral plate......or......The 4 fasteners on the two black rods (two fasteners on each rod) that run back to the neutral plate. I'm sorry about not knowing the names of the parts I'm asking about. Thanks

  9. #9willie592009-12-05 21:29

    not the control links. the 4 bolts on top of the plate that has the spring on the end.

  10. #10willie592009-12-05 21:45

    There's two 9/16 head bolts that hold the two adjusting bars. One of the bolts goes through a hole in the plate and threads into adjusting bar. The other bolt on that bar goes through a slot in the plate. This allows you to change the angle of the adjusting bar and obtain neutral on the pump control arms. Now that you have it off the ground. Do your trick jockeying the drive levers to get the machine started and parking brake released with engine at idle. Climb in the uncomfortable beast, loosen the adjusting bar bolts on the pump to your left. Slightly loosen the bolts of the adjusting bar on your right, that's the side you want to adjust first. Let's say your left track is driving forward right now. Pull the drive lever back to make it stop. With adjusting bar bolts slightly loose, tap the side of the bolts heads of the side that you just moved by pulling drive lever to change the angle of the adjusting bar. You want the adjusting bar to be in a postition that holds the left track nuetral. Once you achieved this, lock down the bolts. It may change the neutral when locking bolts, you might have to do it a time or two, it's a fine adjustment. Once you get the left track set, then you can perform the same adjustment to the right track.

  11. #11Gage2009-12-07 10:16

    Well guys.......I've almost got it. It's not perfect yet but it's very close, it's a realy fine adjustment like you said. Man.... I just want to say "THANKS" Guys I couldent have do this with out your help. Now I need to fix the Heat and air. For some reason its not getting any power to the swiches to the left of my head. I've checked the fuse box and couldent find any bad fuses. Im not sure if the heat and air run on a relay inside the the fuse box or not. Anyone have some tip's to trouble shoot this issue.

  12. #12willie592009-12-07 20:51

    Ha ha, we're going to make a Bobcat mechanic out of him. Welcome to our painful world! :tong Once you get the neutral set, you need to check that the drive levers are adjusted properly. I've got on bobcats that seem slow, to me, going forward. Pull the levers fully back and, sure enough, it will fly backwards, like that's good for...what??? Adjusted the flat bar links that go from drive levers to drive pump so that the lever throw is equal, or close, going forward and reverse, noticed forward much faster than before. Then the operator would get on it, and their eyes pop out like a stomped on bullfrog, "man, what did you do? it will move now!". Also check the levers for tracking equally. Push your levers fully forward and check that machine tracks straight. If it drifts left or right, you need to adjust the levers so that it tracks straight when both levers are fully forward.

  13. #13bobcatmechanic2009-12-10 20:10

    their is a relay under the cab on the right side while looking it play with the plug and wires look at where the harness comes over the hyd tank by the frame for rubs and kinks there also more than likely the relay or a wire on the relay they get pinched and pulled wierd when the cabs down

  14. #14jeffcbr2010-04-15 20:57

    can any one tell me how to tighten the throttle control on a t190 so it stay at a steady pace?

  15. #154cefed2010-05-07 10:05

    Where are the drive pumps and centering device located? I have a T190 thats pulls right upon startup, thanks.