I noticed that my machine was low on hydraulic oil and the underbelly was wet so I dug in to see what was up. I noticed the tilt spool valve pisses fluid after each time I tilt. The fluid is coming from the little pin hole at the end of the valve cover. Anyone with any experience here..would you say probably an print issue? Not going to be able to fix it until after the storm. It only does it after the bucket or attachment has been tilted. Not during the tilt. Thanks
"probably an important issue"? probably not If it's a typical spool valve with a typical "dust cover" held on with two small screws, then it's just a bad o-ring. It's easy to take the cover off and fish out the remains and replace the o-ring, just don't loose the spring that's probably in there! edit: did you look at this thread? HeavyEquipmentForums
spool seal is leaking, disconnect the linkage or rmove the actuator from the front end of the spool remove the 2 allen head bolts from the rear bonnet pull the spool out the rear of the valve replace the seal and reinstall :drinkup
Thanks for the replies. Checked out that link and will tackle the job this weekend. Seals cost $23 bucks. Also bobcat dealer was doing one at the time and had the mechanic walk me through some of the steps.
Well I dug in a found out real quick that a tracked machine is not that fun to work on.... Anyway, removed the tilt spool rather easily however the lift is another problem all together.... When I try to move the spool back, it comes in contact with the drive motor hydraulic lines which are MASSIVE and not easily moved. Following the advice of another member on here that I messages, he informed me sometimes lines need to be removed and moved. I didn't realize whati was getting into. I'm kind of Leary of removing the lines to the drive motors as it is FILLED with dirt and debris. I have the lines removed from the pump side, but am very nervous of removing them on the motor side. I was trying to avoid removing the valve body all together but may need to to avoid causing unwanted other issues. Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated !!
ya shoulda cleaned 'er up a little before tearing into it you wont get the hoses off the drive motor unless you remove the track if you have the hoses off the pump end, it usually takes some pushing, pulling, prying and a lot of cussing to get the lift spool out. it may help to remove the clip and washer from the back of the bonnet and remove only the aluminum bonnet. sometimes you need just that "little extra" to remove it. i have had (1 in 500 chance) to loosen the tubelines going to the valve remove the mounting bolts to the frame, and using a ratchet strap or comealong lift the valve up a little to clear the hoses. aint T200's fun? :tong :drinkup
I cleaned the machine under the cab the best I could before tearing it apart. There was no way I could have gotten the gunk and mud and dirt out from beneath the drive motor shield by the track. I will scratch my head a tiny bit more tomorrow and I may possibly be able to move the valve slightly. The tilt spool was the only one leaking but I figured I'd do them both while I was in there..... Big mistake.
You may "think" it was a big mistake to do the seals on the lift spool at present, since the tilt seal is the one leaking. But I can assure you, although the lift spool seals aren't leaking right now...they would be in short order.
:iagree with Chief & Willie. Its funny I swear I always try to either get a help or myself to powerwash for like a few hours before climbing up on a track machine... Also if I am going in, I tackle as many things as I can think of while I am in there. It kills my knees after a few hours in a T190... It also seems that atleast one track and hoses always seem to be off at the end of the repair. :my2c
Would you gentlemen suggest it just to be easier to pull the whole control valve out then? I would rather not remove the drive motor hydraulic lines at the motor end as if the leak after, it will certainly call for removing the track again to get to it again.
Update.....I am having a HELL of a time taking the track off. Does the front idler wheel sit completely within the track farm when piston is fully retracted? The machine is obviously half apart right now and I am unable to start it to move the drives at all so I'm stuck with prybars and such only in a tight space. I've got the rest of the week off starting tomorrow so I am going to spend a good deal of time on it. I believe if I remove the drive motor hydraulic hoses all together. It will come apart and go back together ALOT easier. Does anyone know if there are any gaskets orings I need for the drive motor end of the hydraulic connections? Thanks guys and again, sorry to be a pain. I like to do things myself sometimes and learn. Thx
No orings, but take a look at all the hoses after you disconnect them, might be worth you while to go ahead and replace them now since it is apart. The front idler pushes all the way until I think you can see about 4" of the wheel sticking out, I always just take the grease zerk out, put a rag under it and push the track and idler with a forklift.
Well good news is I have the spools out. And track off the top sprocket and moved to the side enough. Thoroughly cleaned the drive motor and was able to remove the two lines. One of the lines was ready to leak as it was halfway chewed through by chafing the loader frame. Glad I caught that! Bad news is that line alone is $210 from Bobcat and the soonest I could get it ground shipping is Thursday next week. Add another $80 if I want it by Friday. Going to try a local Hydraulic shop tomorrow morning.
I dont buy any hoses from bobcat direct anymore, The same hose for $200 I get for $75.00 the problem I always have though on drive motor hoses is that they are so short and stiff that bending them into position is a PITA!!!! Maybe someone can shed some insight on an easy way to get them in, O and be careful not to crossthread them, I have :cussing
i try not to get hoses made by anyone unless it's an absolute emergency. not a hyd shop around that can make a hose the exact right length, they are usually too long. many applications ive run ito on bobcats, theres a reason why they made a hose a certain length. too short, and it gets stretched, too long, it rubs someplace it shouldnt. personally, every drive motor hose ive ever had made, has leaked at the crimp within a very short time. not worth fighting with the hose maker trying to them to warranty a hose. "saving" $100 on a hose could ultimately cost us $400-$500 in lost travel, labor, & hyd oil, plus the bonus of a pissed off customer. :drinkup
I see your point, problem for us is that whenever something goes down the bosses want it back up RIGHT NOW LOL, so that means me trying to find the quickest way (and cheapest... :crazy) to get it done. I am very fortunate that I have a hydraulic shop right across the street from my yard. I know awesome right, I am there quite often getting a variety of services that they offer. I am pretty good friends with most of them now, that I just walk through the shop, point being I have detailed the precision on the lengths of drive motor hoses to them and they actually have brought it a "different" kind of hose for when I need drive motor hoses. I cant think of that is it called right now... I have never had a problem with one leaking, other than when an elbow from the drive motor loosened up and turned cause the drive motor hose to rub on window where it goes into machine :cussing I guess it is just like anything or anyone else, pride and quality of work.
Well my mind was made up for me when the hydraulic shop could not replicate my hose. I was pretty bummed out until I found out that they would have charged much more than the bobcat dealer. Placed the order and it should be here by Wednesday next week. Wasn't going to spend the extra $60 to have it overnighted.
Well there ya go:drinkup
i comepletely understand the "right now mentality". we have a hyd shop right across from us as well, and they have several locations around the area. problem arises when i could still be over an hour away from the closest location.... by then, it's actually cheaper for me to order the OEM hose, pick it up the next morning, at our shop, (we usually get instock parts from the warehouse by 10 am the next day, via std UPS) then go back and swap it out. i cover a large area, east to west could be 2- 2 1/2 hrs (via interstate) travel, north to south, easily 1 1/2 hrs, and thats if i stay in my "assigned" territory. such is the life of a full time dealership field mechanic :drinkup
O dang! I know the feeling... We are spread out pretty far. I am the only wrench turner. For 10+ pieces of equipment, not including smalls. 25+ trucks & trailers... It has to be beer 30. :drinkup
we have 5 locations, covering an area from the wisconsin state line to the north, extending west to lasalle/peru IL, east to just past michigan city IN, and as far south as we dare to drive before hearing "banjo music" 6 full time service trucks, 7 or 8 shop mechanics spread between the stores..... it's been a long drawn out week with the snow we got on tuesday, F it i'm done for this week, i believe i may have a beer or 14... :drinkup
Stupid question now that I have the machine all apart and didn't document everything. The drive motor on the right (passenger side) of the machine. The two drive motor hydraulic lines that drive the machine. Can anyone tell me what the front most line goes to? Does it go to the top fitting on the hydrostatic pump or the bottom fitting. I know I should have wrote it down. Dumb on my part.
check the other side, they should be the same :drinkup
That's what I figured, thanks