I feel like a total degenerate asking this but here goes... I am trying to remove the main boom cylinder on my Takeuchi TB180 and i cannot get the pins out!!! On the top pin there is a sleeve welded to the boom with a bolt through it that (i assume) holds the pin in place. I removed that bolt and tried to beat the pin out with no luck. I tried heating the pin and still no luck. It wont even move a little bit On the bottom pin there is a plate that you remove that holds that pin in place. I removed it and tried to beat the pin out, (on this pin there is about 4" of pin that sticks out for the plate to catch the notch in the side of the pin. I got it to move the 4" either way but when the pin is even with the hole it stops and will not move any further. Is there something that i am missing here???? I have removed cylinders more than once and have never had a problem. Please share the secret, assuming there is one!!! Thank you
I'm not sure what you're describing about the top pin (and the bottom pin too). A few pics would help. On the bottom pin are you using a drift against the pin not just a hammer? If you (or someone else) beat on the end of the pin with a hammer, the end may have "mushroomed" out and is getting stuck in the bushing. You might not be able to see the flare, but grinding around the end of the pin might help.
Here are the pics. I hope this helps
I'd think it should pop right out. maybe you could try jacking up the boom to take some weight off the pins. If that doesnt work you could make a pin pusher-outer with a small bottle jack.
Well, from the looks of the top pin, someone has been beating on the pin directly with a sledge- it's probably flared. What does the other side look like? You could try heating the bosses to expand their bores then get someone to hold a solid shaft smaller than the pin diameter and give it hell with a big sledge. Use large channel lock pliers to hold the shaft or weld a pipe to it for a handle. It looks like you moved the bottom pin about 3/8" ? Beat it back and look at the other end- feel it. My guess is it was beaten like the top pin. If it's flared, grind it down and follow with a flat file. Use plenty of penetrating lube and try again with the hammer and drift. Good Luck!
what is a takeuchi?.....is it an excavator?....i have never heard of them let alone seen one.....with a name like that i guess it must be a very small machine
Its a 9-10 ton machine. They are alot of them in the US. I think they are under a different brand name in Europe????
Takeuchi pins are well known for seizing, Takeuchi use pins with a tight fit, and worse they don't use copper grease when the machine is assembled. Also the centres of the pins are soft so they mushroom very easily. I have two possible fixs First, Get another machine (excavator/forklift) and locate the end of the dipper (without the bucket) as hard as possible near the pin to be removed then use a sledgehammer/ heat and with a bit of luck!!! Second. If as seems likely the pins are mushroomed then you can use a 9 inch angle grinder with very thin cutting discs (3 mm) to cut the pin either side of the cylinder, you will destroy any shims, but you should not damage the cylinder. You will need several discs, new pins and safety goggles! One question? why do you need to remove the cylinder? if a reseal is needed only remove the rod pin leaving the barrel in place. Regards
You should not heat the pin. You should heat the bushing so it expands more than the pin, making it easyer for it to move.
air arc... but be carefull...
There's a thread about "thermic lances" somewhere around here. Hope it doesnt come to that.
Well, I got the bottom pin out!!!!!!! Took us two hours of beating with a sledge hammer and heating but we got it. We couldnt get the top pin out so we just pulled the ram out. Now to get the ram welded and rechromed throw some seals in and back in buisness. Thanks for the help
Good Job barklee. What size sledge did you use?
only had a ten pounder in the shop so we made due!!! I couldnt even barely hold it my hands were so worn out.
Yeah, I usually start out with the 10 then if that doesn't work, switch to the 12. If all esle fails, the 16 usually works. What's nice about the 16 is it doesn't bounce back, kinda like a dead blow hammer. Glad you're on you're way to being done.:notworthy
haha i usually jump straight to the 20lber that i have in the shop...good for fine tuning and adjustments!! :drinkup:Banghead
hahaha. The bigger the hammer the better the mechanic... :drinkup
I bought a used TB180 and the pin on the side shift had seized & walked up. The pin is super soft...deformed on me with the sledge. Trying to push it up from the bottom...just lifted the whole machine with the jack. : ( I don't have a torch, I can't center the pin to go down with the non tapered end, can't go up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/fjRwihs8Xmb1EWQf8 Link to pics Is there a press that can push that up on the machine?
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Having the same issue with my TB240. Pin won't take grease so m I'm trying to get it out to clean it up before it runs dry. I've heated and used an penatrating oil, air hammer, then sledge. Won't budge I guess I'm in for the long game.