Bought the machine not knowing it had a issue, on the fist job the Lt track was so slow I couldn’t use the machine. Everything I read pointed towards a bad final drive. I opened mine up and all the gears looked great so I figured it was the hydraulic part of the drive. Ordered a new one from Texas final drives. I installed the new one and it operates as slow as the other one did. What else could be causing this problem?
Good day Landon The issue you describe could be the central joint seal I would suggest you check the pressures on the main hose's to the travel motors. Kind regards Uffex
This may be a bit heavy but it covers most points. KR Uffex
I had those same symptoms, plus a weak blade function. With help on here I was able to locate the issue of fluid bypassing bad o rings in the pivot valve. I'd pressure test like uffex recommends, it could be bypassing the seal and flowing back through the tank return if the seals are bad.
I took the hoses off today a blew them out. The final drive place told me to make sure it’s not a clogged line. They all seemed free. I’m going to order a pressure testing kit tonight. Where would I start testing? Where the drive connects at the track? Or at the valve body?
Good day Suggest pressure test the lines as they go into the motors (Dead end with the gauge)compare good side with that is faulty be sure to make a good note and measure with engine at low and high revolutions. Kind regards Uffex
I’m still waiting on my pressure testing kit to come in. Can u give me any input on how to get to the pivot valve to replace the o rings. As I wait I got to thinking hell I could have done changed those out and ruled it out by now. I took the floor board off and seat off thinking it’d be on top but don’t look like that’s the case. Do you access this from the bottom?
Yes, under track frame there is generally an acsess cover in center, and i would recommend a hydraulic shop do it. They are pressed together with a hydraulic press with many orings that can get nicked easily.
Ok that’s good to know, I’ll pull it out tomorrow and get it to my local shop. Thanks.
Not saying thats what it is... usualy there a pain in the *** to get out. Id recomend pressure testing 1st. It might be a big waist of time if its not the problem.
I plan on keeping the mechine so I’m not afraid to put a little work into it and I’d feel better with them replaced if I have an excuse to. I’d like to change out anything it even might need while I have it down. When I put it to work I’d rather have as little trouble as possible. The test kit should be in this week. I’ll see how the week goes. I would like to test it before I dig farther but tired of waiting
Mine had a bottom cover in the valve, i was able to see chunks of old blown out orings and knew right off the bat that was the problem.
I’m going to jack it back up and pull the cover off tomorrow and check it out. My left track works great the bucket is strong and blade feels strong. But the rt track is real slow and I can’t do any two functions at one time. Like if I’m swinging the mechine I can’t bring the arm in or out. If won’t move until I stop swinging. I guess not enough pressure.
That doesn't sound like anything a bad pivot valve would affect. It would just be lower unit functions.
Good day May I suggest you switch the hose connections from one motor to the other it may be the easier option than digging that central joint out (Pivot joint). No doubt the problem will shift over but is the issue in both forwards and reverse or just one direction? KR Uffex
Any progress?
Hey pal I have the same prob. one track is slow in one direction and my blade is slow to go down. and suggestions thanks. is it the pivot valve? if so how hard is it to rebuild
I have the same problem on my TB016. Have had some extension hoses made to be able to easier swap the left to right and right to left. Rotational speed has switched from what was the slow motor to what was the fast motor and vice versa. Before going to the trouble of pulling the swivel valve assembly I am thinking of swapping the hoses on the control block over to check if it might be the control valve giving the problem.
Good day Another possibilty is to by-pass the central joint to test. Kind regards Uffex
Good idea. I guess that would mean obtaining more hoses to run direct to at least one of the motors. I'll look at most cost effective option as these are not exactly cheap. I guess I could just by pass one motor, 4 hoses.
Yes provided you have a clear definition of the sprocket speed before you bypass. KR Uffex
Hi. I found it a little easier and convenient to swap hoses at the control valves. Looks like its the swivel valve. Rotation speed on the good motor is 1.2s/rotation at around 1000psi on the pump test point whereas on the bad motor its as low as 1.6s/rotation and pressure down to 500psi. Now to remove the valve, the manual states that you have to remove the upper frame, not an easy job. Would you know if its possible to get the swivel valve out without going to this extra work? Thanks and appreciate your input.