Hey guys, been lurking here for a while trying to educate myself on excavators. Long story short, we have a lot of acreage and work to do that I needed an excavator for...so instead of renting one and being rushed to get everything done I figured buy one, use it until everything is done, and then either keep it for use around the property or just resell it. Even at a loss I figured its cheaper than renting one for $1400/week. Anyway, I finally picked up a 2005 Takeuchi TB145. Enclosed ROPS, hydraulic thumb, rubber tracks, 4200 hours. Undercarriage and tracks are in great shape, engine bay looked clean and the only leak I could find was on the hydraulic thumb piston. I picked it up about a week ago now. First thing I did was make my way into the backyard area to pull out a few old rotten stumps. The stumps came out super easy, but I did notice two things in my time in the seat that I did not notice when I was looking it over for purchase. The blade does not have the power to lift the machine up...is that normal? Most videos/pictures Ive seen it looks like they have the ability to do that...this one goes up and down great, but when it hits the ground it does not lift the machine. The bigger issue (and maybe this isnt even an issue...I don't really have anything to compare it to) is that the slew seems kind of weak. What I mean is, at one point I was kind of sideways on a hill and when I would slew the bucket uphill it really went very slow...downhill it obviously was fine, but it struggled to slew uphill. I also know you arent supposed to use the bucket to slew objects over...but I had a small pile of pine shavings/chicken poop in my way, I figured I would gentle just "slew" it over with the bucket before driving over it. I lowered the bucket to the pile and slewed over and the machine was unable to push it? Seemed odd a large machine like that couldn't push over a little compost/shavings pile...but are they just intentionally designed with low power so you cant bend/tweak the boom by slewing? I did notice after this that the hydraulic fluid was low, I added a few gallons as per the manual and its now halfway between the L and H like it should be. I havent really had a chance to try it since doing that. I also ordered a new hydraulic fluid filter - when that arrives I'll install it and give it a go. I'm hoping this isn't a sign of imminent hydraulic pump failure? I did also pick up a fluid testing kit, so I will take a sample of the hydraulic fluid and mail that in for analysis. Is analysis the only way to tell really if its failing?
Good day Its common practice to power both blade and swing-slew from the same circuit as you have issue with both it indicates that the problem is with that part of the circuit, if you have a hydraulic schematic we can maybe help some more. Kind regards Uffex
Ah I see. If the issue were with the hydraulic pump itself would it likely cause all functions to act slow/weak? Not just those two particular functions? I'll see what I can dig up. I found the owners manual online easily but its kind of cumbersome to flip through on my computer. If I find the hydraulic schematic I'll post it up.
So there doesn't appear to be any schematic in the manual...I'll keep searching and see what I can find on the google. Anyone have any clue where that might be on the interwebs?
Lets see if this work...
Well done that appears at first glance to be the same as other machines from the Takeuchi stable, give us a short time we will make some suggestions to try and resolve the issue. Kind regards Uffex
Good day We have assembled some information for you to check out the circuit, the illustrations may not match your machine exactly but the main points should be where shown. Important to measure the pressure as described come back with the results and we are sure to reach a conclusion. Kind regards Uffex
Thanks! I'll look through that and try to figure it out. Ill need to pick up a pressure gauge and figure out exactly what Im doing so it might be a few days...but I'll report back with my findings or questions along the way. Thanks again.
Good day once more Responding to your previouse comment regarding the hydraulic pump actually this is likely to be where the problem is at, your machine has a main pump with two outputs and a gear pump which is the component that is high on the suspect list.The gear pump provides power for swing and blade the main pump powers other functions. Before you condemn the pump check that we have diagnosed the problem correctly by checking pressures, its good you get your fluid sampled that often gets missed today. Good luck & we look foward to reading the results. Kind regards Uffex
I see...so that does make sense that those 2 functions are what is affected. Can the gear pump be replaced individually? Or does that require replacing the entire hydraulic pump?
Normally the gear pump can be renewed as a individual part, I believe that your pump has two sections with gears it may be that both sections come as a unit, do the checks we have suggested and take a close look at the pump see if you can see any information on the gear section as knowing what your options are should you need to buy one. If you can take a good photo or photo's post the to us we may be able to identify the pump. Kind regards Uffex
The attached may go some way to understanding what we believe you have. KR Uffex
These aren't the best shots but I snapped these the other day...if it stops down pouring I can go out and open up the bay a bit for a better picture, but heres these for now.
What is you email ? I can send you the service manual and parts manuals so you have them to work with .
Thanks! I'll PM you my email.
So...its been a busy month. I found a reputable hydraulic shop not too far from me, they offered to look over the pump and give me a full quote for any needed repairs for free...so I pulled the hydraulic pump and dropped it off. Just as uffex suspected - the smaller auxiliary gear pump is shot. The main piston pump is in good shape...he did say there was a part in there (I forget) that he'd recommend they replace while they're in there...but otherwise it seems ok. Unfortunately...the shop is having trouble tracking down parts for the gear pump. Most other vendors/shops I contacted couldn't even find me the gear pump at all. The only price he's gotten for a replacement gear pump so far is $4300 (!!!!). Which is ridiculous since another shop quoted me $4750 for the ENTIRE pump assembly (piston pump + gear pump). My question is this - my part number for the pump is UCHIDA AP2D25LV1RS7-929-1 I am in contact with a vendor from overseas who can provide a pump they claim is a direct replacement, however its a REXROTH AP2D28LV1RS7-856-0. From what I read Rexroth and Uchida are the same company...but the 25 vs 28 is obviously different. Anyone know if that will be a direct replacement? Looking at the photo of the new one it looks IDENTICAL to the one I removed...however I assume its whats inside the housing that counts. This overseas vendor has quoted me less than 1/2 the price of the US vendor...so I am tempted to go for it, but if its not the right part Im obviously throwing money out the window. Here are a few pictures, first 2 are my current pump and second 2 are what the overseas vendor provided: Would you spend $4750 and stick with a US vendor? Or risk going with an overseas vendor for $2000?
Heres a few more of the new one:
So the overseas seller sent me this photo showing various measurements: My pump is still at the shop...Im going to pick it up tomorrow and see if these meausrements all match up. I'm still unsure the difference between that one number in the part numbers...but if the measurements are correct I assume it will mount up and work correctly. I found the pump in the US for $3900/shipped now as well...so the difference is now a little closer. I am waiting to hear back from the US vendor to make sure $3900 includes the ENTIRE pump assembly, and not just the variable piston part of the pump. It will do me no good if it's not the entire pump (piston + gear pumps).
Any luck with figuring out a pump? I have a hyundai with a AP2D25LV1RS7-935-1, having a tough time finding info on it also. My gear pump is fine but the main pump pistons are shot. Found several overseas....
My search shows $3,951 for pump assy, including gear pump and regulator. I priced it through Anderson Equipment. My Takeuchi prices are a little better thru Groff Tractor. Includes everything on these 3 pages. Gear pump is available separately for $1,950.
Sorry for late response, been super busy with my to-do list around the house...not to mention work! So I ordered a brand new assembly from a local dealer here in New Hampshire. I got several quotes from various dealers around the country, and my local dealer was willing to match the lowest...so I ordered it through him. I paid $3961. The gear pump on mine is what was shot, my main piston pump was rebuildable...but by the time I bought the new gear pump for $2k and then bought the parts and paid labor for main pump rebuild, I would have been at (or above) the cost of an entire new assembly. Its a lot of money but I figure it I get another 4200 hours out of it the pump will outlast me for sure, no way I'll accumulate 4200 hours (thats whats on the machine currently and presumably the failed pump had the same 4200 hours) just using it around my property. I picked the pump up yesterday (along with 30 gallons of ISO-46 hydraulic fluid) and will be doing the install next week, likely Tuesday. I'll post some pictures as I do the install. I've done plenty of automotive repairs over the years but Ive never installed such an expensive part...so Im a bit nervous about not screwing this up. I guess I just need to give it a go!
good luck! Following this thread with interest. Know you are not alone, I find it very interesting how many homeowners/landowners come to the same conclusion as me, that buying a mini ex is the best way to clear the land. We have 23 acres, 12 of it is flat and next to a river, and FULL of brush. We are turning it into a park like setting, making trails for atv's and snowmachines, opening it up so we can see and use the land. It is very rewarding. I purchased an older Takeuchi, a 98 TB035...it has required a bunch of work to get it going but thats the best part, I love fixing machines.. I am AMAZED at what we have accomplished in just a couple of months, with a budget of $25,000 I was able to get the mini ex and a small dozer, along with the compact tractor I already had, well it is amazing what these machines can do. So hang in there, get that new pump installed and keep us posted! I know I am interested in these threads, and I will add anything I can to try and give back for the help I have received.
Myself, unless ambient averages 90° or more, I'd use ISO32 instead of ISO46. All of mine are running TO4 spec 10W, with many nearing or over 10k hours, and all original pumps and motors, save for the fractured gear pump housings on my TL150 machines.
Thanks, yes our situations are very similar. We have 38 acres, a mix of cleared/forested areas with a mix of level/dry and not so level/wet...a little of everything! We aren't hoping to have a park like setting so much as cleared land for agricultural use. Nothing commercial, just small scale hobby farming. Our kids are only babies currently so we aren't quite ready for livestock yet...but I figured I can spend the next few years getting the property/infrastructure in place and in 5+ years or so when they're a bit older we'll be ready to jump in. I've got the new pump in, my father gave me a hand muscling it into position. Install was a piece of cake, everything went back together just as it came apart. Unfortunately when I was reassembling it I realized the pipe that feeds fluid to the pump has an O-ring to seal up and the o-ring was nowhere to be found. I think I may have dropped it into the tub I was collecting the oil in without realizing. So I ordered the O-ring...$2.78, but unfortunately Im on hold for a few more days until that comes in. My dad also noticed a hose that had a nice knick in it...so I pulled that out, figured I may as well do it now before it blows and the system is empty anyway. Got the new hose made up at NAPA, I'll install that when the o-ring comes in. We're getting there!
Any particular reason you say ISO 32 is a better bet than ISO 46? The manual says to use 32 for -4F to 86F...and to use ISO46 for about 20F-104F. Im in New Hampshire so 86F than <20F Id say. Heres the page out of the manual:
Just going by what has worked reliably here for over 10k hours, or nearly so, on my Takeuchis. AW32 says -4°F to 86°F, which is pretty much where you're at. AW46 shouldn't make much difference, except when below freezing. Sluggish hydraulics should be the worst side effect. Now, on a TL150, even 10W will cause the hydraulic filter element to collapse, when below 20°F, if one isn't careful to warm the hydraulics before hard working the machine.
So little update... Pump is all installed, I managed to get all the work done in a few minutes here, few minutes there as I had the time...got it all installed, connections hooked up, fluid filled, air bled....with much nervousness I turned the key and the engine fired right up. Nothing exploded so I figured thats a good sign. Theres a small drip at one of the connections on the pump...Im hoping just torqueing it down a bit will fix that. Unfortunately none of the controls seem to be working...I let it idle for a few minutes, keeping an eye on everything for leaks...jumped in the seat and started operating the joysticks slowly but nothing is moving at all? Any thoughts? Its not like its struggling or moving slowly...theres just absolutely nothing, almost like its "locked out". Im wondering if maybe the armrest lockout isnt functioning correctly, or maybe I hooked up one of those small hoses to the solenoids incorrectly? Fluids definitely flowing because after I started it I very quickly realized I had forgotten to reattach the hose to the cylinder for the thumb and fluid was pissing out of the hose! I stopped the machine, attached the hose and started back up...good to go, but the pump was very obviously pumping fluid out, so its definitely pumping. I thought maybe it would just take a minute or two of holding the joystick down to push the air out of the cylinders/hoses but I tried holding the various joystick controls for a couple minutes and nothing seems to be working. Oddly I did push on the dozer blade stick and that lifted! So its working...kind of. I didnt want to try tracking the machine because the bucket is resting on the ground, but when I gently started pushing on the forward stick it did sound like it was going to move, but I didnt push any further. So it appears the dozer blade and forward/back tracking is working...just both joysticks are dead. It was getting late and we had visitors coming soon so I had to get inside and clean up...but thought I'd post up on here and see if anyone had any ideas? I feel like Im missing something simple (hopefully!).
on my takeuchi you have to bleed air from the top of the pump anytime air enters the system just a guess!
Yes mine too, I did that prior to starting. Do you bleed it continuously as its running too? I figured any air in the system would be pushed back to the tank after it's running?
So from a bit of googling it appears the Takeuchi armrest lockout switch locks out the joysticks but not the dozer/tracks...so that sounds like a likely culprit. Any thoughts on how to bypass it? Will I need to snip a wire and splice them together?
So Im kind of working through this...not very experienced with vehicle electronics. Theres 12v going to the solenoid whether the armrest is up OR down...from what I've gathered, 12v should be going when its UP (therefore locking it out). This is from the manual: "Lever lock circuit (for both cab and canopy types) The voltage (+12 V) from the ACC fuse is applied to the lever lock solenoid, through the limit switches R and L for the canopy type or through the limit switch L only for the cab type. During normal operation, the lever lock solenoid is turned on and the current flows. When the lever is locked, the lever lock solenoid is turned off. If the lever lock limit switch should malfunction, the attachment is locked. If this happens and the attachment must be moved for repairs, this can be done using emergency lever lock release connectors A and B. The lever lock release connectors A and B for emergency use are taped on the main harness under the engine muffler. Connecting them will release the lever lock." So +12V when the armrest is UP.... When the lever is LOCKED (I read that to mean the armrest is down, is that correct or am I backwards with that?) the lever lock solenoid is turned off . It doesnt actually say 0V will be at the solenoid...I imagine its not 0V or else unplugging the solenoid would cause it to turn OFF (0 volts), right? It's got to be some other voltage that turns the solenoid OFF? I found those bypass plugs they mention...Im getting the same voltage to the solenoid whether they are plugged or unplugged so they appear to be having no effect either.
Are you sure that you're on the right solenoid? The lever lock solenoid is next to the high travel solenoid on some of my Takeuchi machines. Toggle the rabbit/ turtle button and verify. The only bypass plugs that I'm aware of are for engine protection bypass. It doesnt mean there isn't one, it just means that I'm not aware nor have I ever used them
Hmm Im pretty sure I am...they are right next to each other, Ive been testing the lower of the two. According to the hydraulic diagram for my machine the hydraulic hoses labeled PB1 and PB2 go into the lever lock, the hose labeled PA goes into the speed travel. So Ive been testing the one with PB1 and PB2...but I will try the other side as well just to be sure. It also doesn't help that the high/slow speed travel button stopped working who knows how long ago, and some previous owner rigged some random push button to be the high/slow speed button...but it looks like a cheap piece of junk, Im not sure its working at all either. It didn't work for me when I first got the machine and was moving it...I figured either the switch or some wiring somewhere was cut. I didn't really realize how badly the electronics on this machine had been rigged to work over the years...Ive got my work cut out for me getting that all sorted out, but for now I just want to get this solenoid functioning so I can get the machine mobile!
Ok so its amateur hour up in here... I have the right solenoid but I was measuring the wrong connection I was infact measuring the high/slow speed travel which appears to be getting the 12v. The correct connector going to the lockout solenoid is measuring 0 volts...whether the armrest is up or down. Makes sense I guess that 0V would = lockout and 12v would = run, right? So now the question is why am I getting 0v to that solenoid...
Can you verify switch operation?
Im working night shift but I'll take a look for that switch next chance I get. I actually didn't even realize exactly where the switch was until I saw that diagram you posted - thanks! Just for kicks I took the solenoid from the old pump into my garage, snipped and stripped the wires going to it and touched them to a battery...it made a very audible clicking noise that I have not heard yet with the new one, so I think thats very likely my culprit. I also don't appear to be getting any voltage to the fuse that is in the fuse box for that function, so if its not getting voltage at the fuse it obviously wont at the solenoid. Making progress! Slowly but surely. Unfortunately Im going to have to start taking things apart to dig deeper...but I'd like to get this fixed correctly so whatever it takes.
Check your serial number range...one range has one 65amp fusible link. The other has 3 45amp fusible links. I circled the 3 @ 45 for a given serial number.
Yes Im in that range, 14510745 is my serial. Wow I didnt dig deep enough to find those 3 fuses yet...all Ive seen is the 20A and 15A fuses in the fuse box directly under the armrest. Any clue where those fuses are physically located in the machine? I would hope they wouldn't bury fuses too deep?
Are those 3 fuses what provides power to the entire fuse panel under the armrest?
Looks like maybe those fusible links are in the compartment with the battery on a TB125...good guess mine might be in there as well? That is kinda what it looks like in that diagram anyway... I'll check in the morning when I get home from work.
Do you has schematic? Parts book? On my TB53FR, they are on the battery hold down.
Pretty sure that they're inside the circle(s).
I dont have a parts book, I do have a workshop manual - I assume the wiring schematic is in that...unfortunately its on my home computer. When Im home I can print it out. Im sure they're in the battery compartment on mine too...I'll look as soon as Im home...hopefully its that easy and one of those is blown, but knowing my luck Im not holding my breathe
Different colors for different ratings. I think yours will be maroon.
Link to parts manual https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw1qGnrHD0sMmEch0FH7aSvU
TB53FR has one to alternator. One to B + in fuse panel, and one to ACC.
Makes me wonder if the one that feeds the ACC fuse box is blown and my entire fuse box is dead? I only checked the one fuse for the armrest lockout...if that one fusible link is blown maybe that whole fuse box is dead. Im not sure if any of the other functions in that box are even working, I cant recall exactly whats powered from it. Probably mostly minor things, like radio, heater, lights etc...doubt I ever even flipped switches to see if they worked.
Is that wiring schematic you show in your last post in your workshop manual? Hopefully I can find that exact schematic for my machine...thats simple enough to read and go through.
That's out of my digital TB53FR manual. Pretty sure your 145 is extremely similar, save for component location, and the offsetting boom limit switches.
Must be workshop manual? I have the Owners Manual here at work and don't see that schematic...I'll have to go through the Workshop Manual when Im home. Anyway you can post up that entire schematic page here for me to reference for now?
TB53FR electrical schematic
Thanks, really appreciate the help. I'll take a look at those fusible links tomorrow and report back...fingers crossed.
I know what the fusible links look like because, the battery fumes on my TB53FR ate the harness. On a TB53FR, the short fusible link harness can be purchased separately. And, you may be able to source those Australian fusible links elsewhere, Takeuchi was the cheapest.
Havent had time to do any real digging but I opened up the battery compartment and did NOT see the fuses anywhere...hopefully they arent dug in too deep. I'll lift the cab forward when I have a free day and look around a bit more.
Yeah I saw that, its hard to tell in that diagram where they're located...It looks to me like they are in the battery box in that diagram, but could be under the cab on the front/right side? It was not in the battery box like you said your TB53FR is, hopefully under the cab.
All them drawings indicate that the sockets for the fusible links are clipped to ears on the battery hold down bracket. Have you checked the other fuses for power, both B+ and ACC in the cab?
Those the fusible links? How can I tell if they're blown...?
Them is diodes. Put 'em back. Fuse links are with 12 inches of the battery. Below is your diodes. You're way off on location.
Out of Your operator's manual.
Yes I've looked there, they are nowhere in the battery box. The electrical in this machine has been **** with quite a bit so I'm not sure if/where they are. There's 2 cables coming off the positive terminal of the battery...I assume one heads to the starter and the other will have the fuses, but I haven't found them yet. After they leave the battery they snake underneath and it's hard to follow them from there.
On another note, it appears the switch itself in the armrest is no longer installed...I believe it's missing altogether. I did find 2 wires behind the armrest I assume at least one is from the switch. I noticed when the key is on one of the wires will spark if I touch it to metal, but when I pulled the armrest safety fuse it no longer sparks...so again I'm guessing that's the wire for the switch. Will the solenoid get 12v with the key on but the machine not running?
These are the wires from behind the armrest. That little black wire that's connected and tied together was back there as well but I don't think the ends were spliced together like that...I did that just doing some trial/error to see if I could get voltage to the solenoid.
Big wire goes to starter. Can you follow the other? As an aside, there are only two feeds to the fuse panel, B+ & ACC. Do you have B+? Do you have ACC? If both are there, ignore the fusible link search, for now. Refresh my memory...what serial number do you have? Or, at least, which range is your machine in?
My serial is 14510745. Excuse my ignorance...Im not very experienced chasing down electrical issues - but when you ask if I have B+ or ACC, do you mean do I have voltage at those locations? Where do I measure for those? Is both B+ and ACC on whats labeled "Starter SW" on the schematic? Is that on or near the starter itself? EDIT: nevermind I just realized thats got to be the key, right? Starter Switch would be the key I assume... Some of my fuses appear to have power and some do not. For instance, the Cigar Lighter/Wiper, Stop Solenoid, High Speed Travel all measure voltage. However when I test the 20A for the "Lever Lock", I get nothing. Same with the 15A for "Solenoid A,B". Looking at the schematic, it appears the fuse box is broken into 3 sections with each section being fed from a different source...the top section (in schematic) is fed from ACC, bottom from B, and the middle section fed directly from a fusible link.
Ok so another little tid-bit of progress I guess...I used some old connectors and got the wire that feeds the high/slow speed solenoid (which I confirmed is getting voltage) hooked onto the lockout solenoid, and low and behold, it worked! I didn't move the machine around much because I've got tools sitting all over it and theres still a minor leak in one of the pump connections...but the joysticks are NOT locked out. I guess I kind of already knew no voltage to the lockout solenoid was the issue...but its good to confirm thats definitely my issue. I'll keep digging and try measuring voltage at the B+ and ACC points as you recommended, if I can find where to measure those...do I need to pull the other armrest with the key assembly apart to measure somewhere underneath the key? Half of that fuse panel is definitely not getting voltage so those fusible links you mentioned are looking very likely, just a matter of finding them. They must be somewhere in the area thats hard to see between the battery box and where those wires come out under the cab. Part of the issue is that the way I parked the machine has the battery box area directly over a track, so I can't exactly look under there very well. I may just use the voltage from the other solenoid to the lockout solenoid and at least just spin the machine so I can access it better.
Pick out which fuses do have power (key on) List them. List which dont have power (key on).
So going down the list: Left Side: 20A Horn - No voltage, however the horn works when the fuse is in and does NOT work when the fuse is pulled... 30A Air Con - Yes 10A High Speed Travel - Yes 10A Monitor Feed Pump - Yes 15A Radio Heater - No 20A Cigar Lighter Wiper - No, however there is a fan in the cab that works when this fuse is in, and instantly shuts off when I pull it Right Side: 15A Solenoid A,B - No? It measured -0.3...not much but all the other No's were 0 20A Light - No, however same as that fan the light does work when the fuse is in, it shuts off when I pull the fuse 20A Lever Lock - No 15A - Yes, however I noticed the fuse was blown. As soon as I put another 15A in it instantly blows. I even tried turning off key, new fuse in, key on and the fuse instantly pops 30A Stop Solenoid - Yes