I have a 2006 Takeuchi TB175, I start it up runs great, hydraulics work great machine moves and operates normally, except I don't have any power on tge console and my hydraulic thumb does not operate, if power in console comes on then hydraulic thumb would work. Where and what can I do to get my console to operate and light up all the gadgets, what would be causing this problem, please any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Did you ever find a solution? Mine started this today. This is the one weak point of Takeuchi I am finding. Electrical gremlins plague an otherwise amazing machine. Battery and in cab fuses all look good. Dome light works. Basic wiring looks ok. Anyone know if there is a relay or connection that causes this?
On my TB180FR machines (earlier with fuel stop solenoid), a 30 amp fuse is on the ignition feed to the primary controller (controls dash) and the proportional controller (thumb and auxiliary). My later TB180FR machinss don't have a stop solenoid, and the wiring is different. How about a serial number to see if we can find a schematic for that one?
I tried to follow the wire from the battery as I saw in another post but I didn't see any violations in it. There is 1:30 amp fuse like you mentioned that does control the cab but it is in the main fuse panel and appears intact. The serial number is 17514033 Thank you!!
Here is a copy of the elect schematic. Hope it helps
I guess movie the first step is to check if there is power at the 30 amp fuse in the fuse panel that is supposed to power the console? What I just stick one end of a voltmeter on one side of the fuse connection and then ground the other one out to the machine or would that arc and blow up the meter?
Fusible links are ok. There is no power to any of the lower left fuses in the pannel... which according to the above schematic would be the ACC Fuse. Except that the hydraulics work... so does that mean that the Lever Lockout Limit Switch works? If so how is it that everything off the ACC Fuse doesn't work except that? The ACC fuse location is also not shown in the manual. Anyone know where it is? I also noticed that in the service manual there are several alternative wiring diagrams to the one above. Does the fact that the control lockout functions... but the radio/lights/climate control etc doesn't indicate its possibly the ignition key? See pic.
So I took the armrest apart and did find a relay inside. When the ignition is on in the accessory position I noticed that there is 24 volts to one post but not the other. Should there be 24 volts on both sides? Should I try jumpring between these two posts to see if that fixes the problem?
What's this an inline fuse in the wiring harness and do you remember where it was? I have not been able to locate an inline fuse.
The 30 is in the fuse panel. I circled it.
Ahh. Thank you for clarifying. Can't be that as I have no power to all those fuses. It has to be the ACC relay. Idk why the service manual has no mention or diagram of it. But I'm figuring it is the large metal box the fusible links plum into. A loud click clunk is heard in there as the magnet closes. That has it's own 20a blade fuse. It's the same as the throttle controller which has power. I will check resistance across the down blade fuse panel and the fusible link. Should tell me if the relay is closing or not. Assuming that even is the relay. The above relay in the pic turned out to be the safety relay. If anyone has a more recent tb175 service manual for 2005 and up maybe its better?
Odds are that it's the 45amp "fusible link" which is a Narva brand style fuse
This thread shows them.
Can I ask how this ended up for you? My TB153FR has started having the same issue, though it's intermittent - the worst kind of issue. It happened the other day when I was going to move the machine so I brought it home to try to diagnose. My behavior is that the machine runs but all the functions of the controller don't work. I pulled down the controller to start backprobing and had the key on and wouldn't you know it the dash beeped and lit up. As of now it's still behaving.
Yes! So after spending hours with a voltmeter chasing things all over the place I finally just decided to start with the wiring loom at the battery and trace it back and you would not believe what I found. So the wiring loom as it originates from the battery travels along the floor that the battery sits in and there it accumulates pooled water, battery chemicals and moisture. At that point in the loom many connections are made with copper swedges or crimps. The dissimilar metals, combined with electricity flowing through them, battery acid, combined with sitting in water for the majority of their life result in accelerated corrosion. That spot in the wiring loom gets gnarly and almost certainly needs to be reworked. This is what I found about a foot away from the battery in the loom: You can see why it was an intermittent problem. There's literally one thread of copper carrying that current. It's incredible to me that it even worked as long as it did. Continue following the loom and notice any place that there is a wrap where one of those crimps is there's going to be heavy corrosion and you're going to need to redo that: See that green coming out from under the tape, you're going to need to open that up and rejoin those.
I only had to open the loom a distance of about 2 or 3 ft from the battery to unearth the clear disaster that had unfolded there. Access was very simple. Much simpler than trying to dig through the belly of the machine. I just replaced the connections wrapped everything back up and the machine worked as normal again. The most difficult part of this entire repair wasn't repairing the wiring. It was taking everything apart searching for everything leading up to this. I would say anyone that is experiencing electrical gremlins that sound like intermittent connections should start by opening up the loom where it originates from the battery because this is a major corrosion point and there are a lot of splices right there. Loom all redone:
Oh and I almost forgot It's very important that you trace the corroded wires back through the insulation until you get to a point where there is no corrosion. I did half to cut out a foot or two of battery cable and replace it because the corrosion was tracking back in the insulation and I didn't want anything left in there. So if the wire is corroded make sure that you are going all the way back to good wire where there's no evidence of corrosion in the insulation anymore. For the smaller wires I highly recommend the connectors where you put the two wires through and use a heat gun to melt the connector on and it has the solder in the middle that joins it all together perfectly and holds it tightly. Those things are stupid easy and incredibly strong and waterproof. For the battery cables I used large twist nuts and heavy gauge wire.
That's amazing edrrt! Good for you! Such a great feeling to find and solve the problem. I will check my looms to see whether corrosion appears to be setting in or is a factor. Better to fix the problem before it begins than wait until it becomes a problem. Posting your solution will hopefully help many others. I will also post my results once the problem undoubtedly returns. Cheers.