My TB180FR is once again doing the 'start, run for 1 second, then shut off thing'. In the past I let it sit overnight and it worked the next morning. The reading I've done on this form points to the Detector and/or one of the sensor inputs. I ran a hot wire to the red 'Hold' wire on the fuel shutoff solenoid to get the excavator into the shop. The coolant level sensor is where I'm starting. It has been disconnected since I purchased the unit. I take that to mean the prior owner put it to ground(?)...but I have been unable to locate the source wire to verify the ground is still good. I'm hoping someone on the forum can point me to where the coolant sensor wire originates (or where the connector was supposed to terminate) so I can test the ground....(Or, hook the sensor back up). I took the opportunity to check the wiring in the cab under the driver's right arm. One mouse nest but no damage. I opened all of the connectors and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in them before reconnecting. Cleaned everything up while it was apart. At least it looks nice now. Even if it doesn't run. I'm going to break this into multiple replies to the original post. The forum is telling me I'm exceeding a 10K character count limit?
Next step was to check the Detector. The Detector is the small box bolted to the bottom of the relay box. I don't see any issues with the detector. There was a post on this form about a TB175 that had some failed solder joints. These are the relays in the box for this machine
Which leads to the wiring diagrams...and my zero competency level on reading schematics. I've marked everywhere I saw the words Coolant Level Sensor...but I don't know what do with that info.
Thank you for any experience or advice you have!
I'll be on one of my TB180FR tomorrow to locate that wire. The serial number does matter, to a point. 1783#### is slightly different that 1784####, as the 1784#### doesn't have a stop solenoid. I've gotta assume that that you have a 1783####. With that said, there are 3 wires to the stop solenoid. Black is ground, white is pull in and red is Hold. If you jumper 12v to red and start machine, does it stay running? 12v on red will not create a backfeed, but will drain the battery if left connected with the engine off. You will need to leave the white and black connected.
Yes, the machine stays running when I jumper Red wire to 12v positive. Serial # is 17830xxx.
Still not assembled to run, but, IIRC, if it's the water level sensor, youll get more than 1 second. I'm thinking 5 seconds, along with a flashing lamp. Regardless, it's the blue wire...
Got the air filter housing out of the way and found these 2 orphans. Not a match for the coolent level sensor connector. Wonder what they were for? Green wire and a black wire with red dots. Bullet connectors. There is a wire that runs under them but that runs to what I'm guessing is a coolant temp sensor (around where I'm guessing the thermostat housing is). I cleaned that connection up. Traced all of the wires in the bundles that run near the alternator and a/c compressor. There is a blue wire in this bundle but it runs up and over the compressor and then down into the belly pan area. My serial/production number is 2 digits. Early in the production run. Maybe the early 17830 models were more jacked up than the later models.
Thank you for the pictures and the feedback. I'll keep at it. Next step is to figure out what type of Deutsch (or other) connector the fuel shutoff solenoid uses. I'll get a male and female and do a nice job of passing the white and black wires 'thru' and connect the red to a switched 12v (30 amp) line. The ignition switch looked nicely protected. I won't tap into that. I'll probably run a separate fused wire to the cab and add a toggle switch to the panel. Open to other ideas. Oh, I'm also going to try the two bypasses by the relay box. (To see if it starts and runs in 'bypass the sensors' mode). The trouble with just leaving it that way is the hydraulic thumb doesn't operate when I plug the controller into the 'bypass' harness. The high speed travel mode/light also isn't functioning (as of late). I'll start another thread on pulling the radiator. Looks like I'm going to have to take off the counterweight. So that's nice.
Your two open ended wires are for the air cleaner restriction indicator. Mine are all disconnected. These is my four serial numbers.
If it's of any help, I've replaced the ECM twice on this serial number. Never on the other 3. Mind you this one has 11k+ hours. Original failure was that you would randomly lose rabbit travel. When rabbit didn't respond, there was also no Pull-in circuit power, so it wouldn't restart if shut off. Left overnight and it would always restart. If left running with no rabbit, you could continue operating, but rabbit wouldn't come back. My memory ain't as good as it used to be, but, I think the second failure was no idiot lights (lamp check) at key on, accompanied by crank, no start. Sometimes it would lamp up, and run. Others, you could come back the next day and it would.
As for the coolant level wire, it's blue with yellow stripe. That's "LY" on schematic.
Based on the info shared and found I decided to power the 'hold' wire on the solenoid via a switchable circuit. - I ran a fused (5 amp) 14 gauge 'supply' wire from the battery up to a lighted switch I added to operators left arm rest. - I ran a ground wire back to battery area to give continuity to the 'light'. - I ran the 'load' wire to the back of the machine and connected the 'load' wire to the 'hold' wire on the fuel shutoff solenoid. - I made jumpers for the ground (black) wire and the pull (white) wire on the fuel shut off solenoid and connected them to the wiring harness. I don't like diagnosing electrical but I did enjoy running the new wires. I bought a 'real' crimper, used heat shrink, etc. Someday I MIGHT upgrade that solenoid connection...(maybe if retire). The machine now stays running! (Have to use the new lighted fuel shutoff solenoid switch to turn the machine off) Before adding looms and tape to the connection
Note: When I viewed this thread today...the pictures that were part of the initial post have disappeared? Those pictures were not links. They were part of the thread. Apologies as to their disappearance. Not my doing. I started a thread re the lost pictures in 'support'. Maybe there is solution there.