Good Day, I'm new to the forum but I've spent a good bit of time read past posts to help troubleshoot my issue on my CTL. I'm not 100% sure I'm checking the correct solenoid on my machine as most of the posts are for the older TL140, 150, series and my machine is a 2015 TL12 Standard Flow. I had a leaky floating seal on the LH travel motor. Some friends helped me pull it and tear it down, installed a new OEM floating seal, and put it all back together. Got it back on the machine one night super late at like 1AM and was excited to see it work. Everything was torqued and ready for fire up and then I realized as I was in the cab that I had zero hydraulics. No pilot pressure like my Lever Lock Bar wasn't down. It was super late and all I did was check fuses and stare at it for like 10 mins scratching my head and then called it a night. The next day I did a bunch of forum research and that lead me to checking out the Lever Lock systems. I checked the Relay located in front of footwell. It clicks and is sending power. Mag Switch works on lap bar. I even have 12V at what I believe is the lever lock solenoid and the coil is magnetized when the bar is down and magnet goes away when the bar is raised up. I am not sure how strong the magnetism should be however. I'm not 100% sure I'm on the right solenoid as I'm only using the wiring diagram and color of wire to help determine if it is the correct solenoid. The one I'm testing is on left side of machine slight behind and below the LH control stick. There are two solenoids and I'm testing the one with the 19mm hex on top (it is the solenoid towards the rear on that sub valve block). I'm starting to run out of things to test and my knowledge on this machine is limited to 2 years of ownership and some basic all around mechanic skills. I don't see how working on the travel motor could have related to this "new" problem but perhaps I'm missing something? The machine is a 2015 standard flow cab model. No optional seat safety switch, No optional theft arrester system, No Ride Control Option and No Parking Break Option. Serial is 201201893. Pilot filter and primary Hydraulic suction filter were both changed in June 2023 (about 100 hours ago). I use the machine on my small farm so it doesn't see a ton of hours like if on a job site. I'm hoping there is a smoking gun of something stupid that I'm not thinking of and I really appreciate your time and thoughts on this. Brian
How much oil did you lose while the final was off? Is the hydraulic reservoir full?
I lost about 3 quarts or so. Topped it up before fire-up to just below middle of sight glass. Lines were plugged while motor was off and being torn down.
So both your travel and your lift does not work?
Correct. No travel or lift or quick hitch function. It's like the lever lock is "up" but I can see the magnetism at the solenoid and hear the lever lock relay and have tested for 12 v on lever lock relay. I think I'm on the correct solenoid but I'm not 100% sure. No errors or warning lights etc.
That is the sub valve block left side of machine behind and below left joystick
On my TL150 machines, if you remove the pilot lock solenoid, there is loose pin in the end of the solenoid. DO NOT LOSE IT. It only comes with a new solenoid.
Pretty sure it's this one.
Chassis wires. Red w/green stripe 12v from relay Black ground A Full schematic below
So the one circled in red is what we started with (friend with various heavy equipment service experience ). I then moved to the other solenoid (one in yellow) yesterday because the one in yellow is the one with the factory wire RW (red with white on mine ). The solenoid in red has a brown (I believe takeuch calls it Choclate) going to it. The red solenoid has a pin in it and I didn't lose it. When energized it only pops out about 2mm. Not sure if that is spec or if that is an issue. The pin is like 30mm long.
Also the pages you sent seem better or newer than mine ?? I have a workshop manual and parts manual and operator manual all in PDFs but they were all acquired second hand and I'm not 1000% sure they are properly matched to my serial number Not sure if that it a thing or not.
Is that diagram from a TL140? My unit is a 2015 TL12.
My brain's fried. Yes, that is a TL140 manual. Don't have a TL12 schematic.
They are probably similar, can you post yours up so we can have a look
Hopefully this format works ok. I'm on my shop laptop which is older and allowed to get dirty hands on it.
It works. I am going to take a look once I can do it on a desk top. I have a tl150 that has put me through issues like this. It always was a bad relay or a weak solenoid.
HeyMccall, Does the lever lock stop the pumps from charging the system with fluid? Why is it called a lever lock?
Good Morning, No fix yet to my hydraulic issues but I wanted to update with some findings. The pic above with the two solenoids has one circled in yellow and one circled in red. The Yellow one is the Lever Lock solenoid and the one circled in Red is the 2-Speed Solenoid. I was under the impression the Red one was the lever lock so I ordered and replaced it and after further examination and testing I then verified that the Yellow one is in fact the Lever Lock Solenoid. I left the new 2-speed Solenoid installed and kept the old one as a known good used for my parts bin. The Yellow one had to be ordered from Takeuchi (not dealer) and is ordered and should hopefully arrive soon (no shipping info yet). I'll post with findings after the part arrives and gets installed. Fingers Crossed that the parts cannon works out as I'm running out of ideas. Thanks. Brian
Pull down
Earth pull up
Not sure what you see working on electronic side, you should be able to test the coils without buying new ones
I'm not sure what that means ? I have 12v at lever lock solenoid and I can see it go to zero volts when lap bar is up. 12.6v when bar down position. I've tested voltage at lever lock mag switch too in cab.
PM sent
Good Morning, Just an update (no fix yet). Lever lock switch tested and functions. Lever Lock relay tested and functions. Lever lock solenoid replaced with new OEM and functions (magnetizes with lap bar coming down). Lever Lock Solenoid was replaced as a function of the parts canon being deployed not because the original wasn't magnetizing. I just wasn't 100% sure the original solenoid was working enough or properly. Still no hydraulic action on any function and it doesn't seem to be Lever Lock related. I'm not really what to focus on next as all of my Google and Forum searches point to Lever Lock related parts and systems. Any advice is appreciated. Also the Lever Lock relay is the one circled in yellow up above in earlier post. The one circled in red is the travel speed solenoid. Lever lock solenoid for this TL12 is part number 1901748114 Brian
Since you are saying the lever lock is working you need to confirm if the pumps are turning? Take your gear pump on the front loosen it up with the bolts and slide it out a little so you can see if the shaft is turning while the machine is on. look to see if you can see it spinning. If it's not the engine coupler is broken.
I never thought of the coupler. Wow. That would have never occurred to me
It was a little tricky to do without making a giant mess of hydraulic oil but I was able to get the gear pump moved forward enough to see the shaft. Bumped the key and the shaft is spinning for sure. I also checked the main suction filter and pilot filter and they are both clean. The filters are less than 100 hours old but I thought I should check them anyway. Thinking about draining and inspecting the Hyd Fluid tank. I definitely get oil at the pumps as I get oil out of bleed ports or test ports but I don't have a good way to make sure the volume of oil is sufficient.
I spoke to a mechanic about it. He thinks it is still in your lever lock or wiring to it.
So as of last night here is where I'm at on this project..... Lever lock switch and relay working. Lever lock solenoid replaced (parts canon), 2-speed solenoid replaced (parts canon misfire), hydraulic filters inspected (clean and less than 75 hours on them). Hydraulic tank drained and inspected. Clean with about 4-8 ounces of water at bottom. Screen looked fine on endoscope camera inspection. Replaced gear pump assembly with new OEM unit. Replaced hydraulic oil with new. Bucket and Arms now move. No travel at all. Left or right track forward and backward nothing. Opened both bleed screws on top of the main HST Hydraulic pump and there was some air (not a ton but some) and one of the chambers had some cavitated oil in it. These chambers were previously full to the top before all of hydraulic oil was drained out and gear pump came off. I haven't had time yet to check any pressures on HST pump or fully troubleshoot with more bleeding. Ran out of time and energy last night. I'm hoping it is more air in the system or something simple as I really don't want the expense or time of a new HST pump (I'm scared to even think how much $$ that is) Thoughts or suggestions on this sort of "new" problem? Thx Brian
It sounds as if you found one of the problems. How did you figure out the old gear pump was not working?
Good Morning I tested for pressure at various places the workshop manual indicated always had 0 psi. Then I decided to test right at the Gear Pump. It was the mid section of gear pump which is for the bucket and boom, etc. but is part of gear part assembly. Had 0 psi on gauge right at output hose. Then took the gauge off and just had an open 1/8" test line. I would say I had 3-5 psi maybe and very little volume. I was prepared for a shooting stream of oil and it was more like drool. I don't really see how a machine with 2700 hours lost a gear pump and had 0 psi at all. Maybe thats how gear pumps fail????? All or nothing??? Tank and oil looked great. No metal or glitter and clean filters/screen. I just ordered some fittings to adapt my test kit to the charge line that the manual says to test at on the HST main pump. I won't have those fittings until mid or end of week this week most likely. I have lots of NPT and 37 degree JIC stuff on hand for agricultural and construction type implements but this machine is mostly BSPP and I don't really have any fittings in that flavor on-hand.
How much coin was the new gear pump? Hopefully your travel pump works right after rebuild. I had two drive motors rebuilt, all the labor to put them back in and they both failed within 4 hours. I ended up needing to by new ones and do it again. Makes you wonder if they put the wrong fluid in when something blew.
New gear pump was almost $1600. I hope the one travel motor survives the rebuild. The darn floating seal was $560 so that would be a quick $500 down the tubes and a bunch of time if the drive fails. I'm just hoping my HST pump is OK. I'm scared to think what that costs.
Took the old Gear Pump apart this afternoon. All three pump sections have same wear in all bores. 6 grooves total. No gear cog/tooth damage visible.
Seems so over priced for what it is.
All of us have been here before. You make a repair to one system and something else fails. I’ve worked on the TL130 , 140 TL8, 10. All very similar machines. Options: Bleeding air from the system. I’ve had other technicians explain the pilot controls as low pressure brake lines. If there is a big section of the pilot hydraulic circuit with air trapped, it can cause troubles. (Air in any hydraulic circuit is bad). Some systems will expel air slowly on their own, internal leakage, relief valves, etc. Some need to have a line cracked to get out the air. I’ve found the wiring on these Takeuchi’s to have issues from vibration. Look for damaged wiring. Give the wiring harness a wiggle and see if problems come and go. Check the fuses with a meter. Make sure the power is going through it. I’ve had more than a few fuses look good to the eye, but not work because of a tiny break in them. Be careful. Having the cab flipped up, and the lap bar engaged will allow the hydraulic system to work. An accidental bump on a joystick could cause that function to work. None of the Takeuchi machines I’ve worked on have a cab safety switch.
Good Morning I'm a little embarrassed but the cause of the issues has been discovered. I'm not sure why replacing the gear pump got Aux hydraulics and Boom/Lift, etc working. Maybe the original pump was a little weak and replacing it with a new one helped? That being said the main cause of all of this is the rebuilt travel motor. It is leaking or bypassing internally and not allowing charge pressure to build up. If the rebuilt travel motor is taken out of the equation with caps on the lines, everything works and the pilot pressure warning alarm goes off. I'm not sure if I can find a professional to disassemble and reassemble the travel motor but it needs a pro to spot what we did incorrectly during our reassembly process. It does have a new $560 floating seal and other misc new o-rings. All of the hard parts were in really great shape too. I hate to walk away from it but at this point I need to shell out for a ReMan unit and get the machine going. Maybe have my OEM travel motor fixed later?? I should have eliminated the travel motor from the equation way earlier but I was unaware that it could leak like that internally and cause charge pressure to not build for the entire system. Live and learn I guess. I'll post again with the final final fix but for now I wanted to let you guys know what the real Gremlin was. Brian
There's nobody on this form, that hasn't been in your shoes, and gone down the wrong rabbit hole.