I have an issue with no power to the Fuel shut-off solenoid, I have 12 volts on the red wire, when first turning ignition on and no power on white wire, the dash lights are flashing, when trying to start and run, can anyone point me in the right direction?
Red wire will be hold in winding, and have constant power. White wire will only have power during cranking. Black is ground. The wires rub through inside the wiring loom. Cut open the loom and look at the wires.
RED wire and white I have already removed the loom and checked the wires, they're okay, from the plug to the relays. The ground is good and I suspect the relays may be bad, I have the Service manual, but the wiring schematic is SOOoo little, not enough coverage, only about a 1/4 of a page and shows no relays or other circuits.
So you checked the wires at the fuel shut off solenoid? The wires that I usually saw rubbed together were within a few inches of the fuel shut off solenoid itself, inside the loom. Do you have 12v at the white wire with the key in the crank position? Since you have power at the hold in winding, you only need to check the pull in winding circuit. Assuming you have the 4tnv98 engine, check the following: Fuse #2, a 30amp fuse, keyswitch power. Should have power with key on. Power then goes to the stop solenoid timer, which will turn on the stop solenoid relay. Pin 3 on the stop solenoid relay then goes to the pull in winding on the fuel shut off. The stop solenoid relay, pin 5 gets power from a 45amp fusible link. 1. So check power at pin 5 on the stop solenoid relay. If you have power, jump it to pin 3, and the fuel shut off should pull in. If it doesn't pull in, you have a bad wire from the relay to the solenoid. If it pulls in go to step 2. 2. Check power at the stop solenoid timer, wire 2Pink. Should have power with key on. If no power, keyswitch is bad, or bad wire from there to fusebox. If there is power there, then timer is probably bad.
Hey Gary!! It was the Fuel Stop Solenoid and after jumping out #5-#3 the equipment started up and ran, Thank You I am a heavy equipment mechanic instructor for Job Corp in Albany, Ga. I have 16 students I keep for up to 1 year.
Good to hear you found it.
Red and White wires are hot all the time ? i have a tl130, the fuel shutoff wiring coming from the fuse block keeps the RED wire HOT ALL THE TIME,, even with the switch off. it would be nice to have a REAL wiring diagram, Please help. thank you very much. p.s. please feel free to email me if you like. Tom
If thats the case it would stay running after you shut it off ,it is the hold wire
yes, that is the problem i have,,, but what has happened was some one else was working on it and the wires to the fuel solenoid burnt up,,, the pull in wire is the one that stays hot all the time,,, the other wire turns off with the switch,,, i was not able to find why the pull in wire always stays hot,, so i ran a wire from the switch ( that goes to the starter solenoid to the pull in side of the fuel solenoid, and it works fine ) just need to find out why the original pull in wire stays hot all the time,,, if you hook it to the fuel solenoid it blows the fuse and then the run wire will not work.
Relay possible stuck ? I worked on hand full of these, so you will have to bare with me. They are very reliable loaders Since the cab does flip up on these chance of follwing the wire back to location
well i can believe that,, but all the relays that are up front, i have pulled each and every one and the line still stays hot,, not sure what else to do,,, i ran a new wire from the switch that go to the starter solenoid so that way it will on on (only while trying to crank it ) that works fine,, runs good, stops and starts just fine,,, but i still need to find and fix the problem ,,, and help would really be appreciated. the only wiring diagrams i can find do not show a clear path to the pull in side of the fuel solenoid.. i do appreciate your replying
Not the best, but it will due. If you have removed all the relays, and the unit still stays running, then you have a short to power between the relay and the fuel shut off. What happens if you pull the fuses
if i pull the fuses, all power stops,,,to the fuel (stops on both wires,, the RUN, & the pull in wire) but here is what happens,,, if i try to use the pull in wire,,, it immediately blows the fuses, it is the one that stays hot all the time, it should only be hot while trying to start the engine, and then drop out when you release the key switch for it to just normal run. for me,, it seams like the pull in wire is shorted to a hot wire somewhere ,,, or a b ad relay, but i had pulled all relays and it stays hot
Since your wire is disconnected that keeps blowing the fuse to the fuel shutoff, take you a meter and check continuity from battery neg and to the questionable wire and see if it starts beeping. 0.03 or lower is dead short. Youcan also check the feeder side of the fuse holder for that particular circut. I have had had to physically follow the wire back Shaun
There is a serial number break, first drawings are of old serial numbers. Serial No. 21301933~
i understand.. now on the wiring, the fuel block is in 2 stacks,,,, it is the bottom LEFT, As you can see on this diagram it shows all in one row,, i hate to be crazy,, but witch one is the bottom left lol,, what number is it,,
Thanks gary we got a little bit newer one in the rental fleet, theyre like a rock no trouble what so ever from ours. I think the only reason we got it they bought out another company
I have a 2004 TL150 and am having the same issue. For a while when you turned the key on the solenoid would retract for only 2 seconds and then extend again. Now it won't even do that. I have jumped the pins on the stop solenoid relay and it will retract. I have power to the stop solenoid timer and it sends it to the stop relay -- i think it's a small yellow wire. The relay will not engage, but it is not bad either. What's weird is that when I touch a grounded test light to the small wire going from timer to relay the relay will engage and solenoid will retract all like it is suppose to do. Everything has 12v too. Would this mean there is a bad ground somewhere? Or bad timer? Thanks in advance.
Its usually the relays that are bad.. but.. if you want to use the machine, just tie the plunger up & out of the way.
There are 3 relays the same and I have rotated them all around with no different result. Could they all be bad? The machine has sat unused for the past 4 years.
HeavyEquipmentForums Check this thread out, and do the tests.
So I may have figured it out. There are two wires coming from the timer that go to the relay. They both have power, but if I disconnect the one and ground it out it works. I do not believe it should have power so must be a bad timer. I will get one tomorrow and see. Thanks.
Long story here, I have a TL150 that quit on me a few years ago. The fuel solenoid would pull, but NOT hold. In a pinch I had someone troubleshoot the problem for me to find the gauge/cluster had a burnt spot on a tiny little relay circuit on the back of the circuit board. He checked everything until he ended at the cluster. It was an expensive part, and I needed it fixed that day. I jumped a fused wire to a switch in the cab to run the hold. (Which was a pain to turn the key, then flip the switch, then start). Now I’ve bought the new $600 circuit board, only to plug it up and burn up another board in the exact same spot. I’m drawing a blank now, and at $600 loss on the display, I’ve got to find out why it’s shorting out. Just dropping my great experience with my fuel solenoid in this thread. Wishing I could retrofit a cable kill.
You need a wiring diagram. There should be a flyback diode somewhere that protects the circuit from the stored current in the solenoid. It sounds like yours is not working.
I have one, I’ll search for the diode and check it.. thank you!
Nhilln.. theres nothing wrong w/retroing a pull cable.. I've done it.. I just went next door to the Mack dealership & bought a shut down cable for a mack truck, drilled a hole by the driver/operator seat & ran the cable & cut off the excess.. You might even get away w/ running a universal "choke" cable.. 1000's of'm on ebay-amazon for $5.-10.00. Now I'm not saying THATS THE RIGHT WAY.. I'm merely throwing out options & letting you know it can be done.
It was not the timer. Start over again. I did the tests Gary. I have power in red wire at relay and timer. Fuses all ok. White (hold) wire gets power for a second then loses it. Even with fuel solenoid unhooked from harness. My next thing to check would be maybe the key switch or coolant level sensor? Here is my relay layout.
Relays "J" & "K" come apart. Remove the case, and inspect the circuit board for cold solder joints. The larger the connection, the greater the chance of a cold solder joints. Number one electrical issue on my TL150 machines. These are the "triple" relays. The relays with a phillips screw in the bottom do not come apart.
Took them apart and they look good. I ran 12v from a separate battery to the pins on the stop solenoid relay and it did the same thing (engaged for a second and then disengaged). After it disengages there is 12V on all 4 wires with the key on. May be a bad relay but they are $50 a piece to buy. Would like to make sure that is the problem. I would think rotating it with another relay would fix the problem but it does not.
so the white wire will only have power while motor is turning over?
Did you ever find a fix for your issue? My machine is having the EXACT problem. It’s got me scratching my head....
If u put the GROUND wire{-} from a battery charger to the BLACK wire on the solenoid.. Then put the POSITIVE wire{+} from the charger to the WHITE wire on the sol. & push in on the plunger a little.. it should snap closed.. NOW, while holding the plunger in..{u already proved it WILL snap closed}.. Move the 12v wire{+} to the RED wire.. & let go of the plunger.. IT SHOULD HOLD.. IF NOT, u have a bad "HOLD" windings in your solenoid.. If ALL THAT WORKS.. u have a problem w the wiring.. most likely a bare wire, corroded wire or a relay. DO NOT straight wire the solenoid.. you'll DEFINITELY burn it out.. The run & hold windings run at different AMPS..
bringing this back again-- my 2007 or so TL130 wont start all of a sudden-- someone cracked the plastic around the instruments and replaced it last week-- didnt try to start since then -- and now no start--i didnt think it was caused by him but now im not sure-- ive replaced fuel filter and added fuel and cleaned separator.. wondering if he accidently broke a relay on the board changing the plastics out..? machine only has 500 hrs on it i have 12v at the red wire key on - solenoid black is good ground tested with power probe NO power key on start position on white wire-- i took solenoid out and only verified that it clicked and moved before seeing this thread on how to test it. another thread says the white wire has power in crank only -- so i went and tried that-- i turn machine over and using power probe give 12v+ to the white wire while cranking-- It runs! but as soon as i let go of the power switch it stops-- it will run as long as i can give it power - the power probe blows its breaker in about 5 seconds-- so the solenoid is needing more than that- now im confused- is there 2 issues? 1) i have no power coming from some relay to trigger white wire 2) solenoid isnt holding open after triggering white wire with power-- so does the white wire ONLY have power when cranking? i will take solenoid back out tomorrow and test as above
so i tested the solenoid-- power to white wire pulls plunger IN-- it stays in as long as i hold power to it- (well as long as power probe can let it-- same 4 seconds or so it blows the breaker) i dont have to push in on plunger at all for it to move. putting power to red wire does nothing-- even while giving it power and pushing plunger in manually it doesnt stay in - ive tried holding plunger in while powering and same-- so looks like the solenoid is dead..
Yup.. u found it.. the “run” coil inside the sol. Is no good. It should “hold” all the way compressed.. it won’t snap closed, u gotta hold it & the voltage should take over from there.. There’s a secret in the pump world, (yeah, just 1. Lol). Look up PJ POWER for the solenoid.. probably 100.00 cheaper than your dealer. Shhhh, don’t spread it around.!!
k i will check pj power-- as soon as i turn key on with solenoid out it pulls in for a fraction of a second then it releases.. thats in the ON position on key not start -