I bought the shop manual and I cannot seem to get the electrical fault located. The machine worked perfect , then slowly started to show a shorter time for the Auxiliary hydraulic circuit to work. Finally, I went out to do some mowing and everything hydraulic quit. Engine, starter, fuel pump, horn & lights all work. Travel motors, arm & bucket and aux hydraulics died. No power to either the green or amber hyd switches. Ideas? Anyone have a more detailed electrical troubleshooting chart than is in the shop manual? Thanks, Jim
Look for the bypass plug in. On my 130 it's on the harness on the bottom of the back door. Should be taped up connector. Plug it in n the machine should work. There's one blue n one yellow. One bypasses the machine safety interlocks, one bypasses the engine interlocks
I don't have any wires on the back door.??? It that labeled on the wiring schematic??? THANK YOU . I seem to recall someone, someplace mentioned a bypass.
Ok I haven't worked on a 140. My 130 has a fuel filter and small fuel pump on the bottom of the back door and that's where the bypass plug ins are
OK. SO, they are actually ON the door? That sounds like a good place for them. Thanks again.
Yeah I have a small harness that runs to the lil fuel pump on my back door and that's where they are. Easy to get to when the door is open but you'd never know they were there without looking in detail
Also have you ruled out the seat bar switch? I left my machine bypassed but my seat bar still controls on and off for aux hyd stuff
I got it running through dumb luck. I looked all over, found a couple odd looking wiring thingys over the engine. One was a yellow plastic two prong wiggit with a return arrow symbol. I cleaned that, jiggles everything in touch. There is a jumper wire going to a solenoid under the left pilot handle. So, prior owner had trouble with the circuit feeding that lil solenoid on top of the valve block, I guess. Anyway, the beast is back under cover. Thanks man!
Awesome. Good deal. The bypass connectors are one yellow and one blue. They would normally be unplugged and taped to the harness if no one had hooked them up
Takeuchi Track Loader Lever Lock & Emergency Release Connectors HA! You told me the thing would be Yellow. I thought you meant it would be a YELLOW WIRE. So, now I have to keep looking until I find a BLUE chunk o plastic like the Yellow one? Man, I have read a bunch of conversations about the Taks having various electrical problems and you are the very first man to even mention these two objects. And there is no mention about them in the crappy, ill marked Workshop Manual. The electrical print does indeed show : on page ( Rev.2 III-45 T9C825) LEVER LOCK RELEASE CONNECTOR and up with the engine sensors stuff, EMERGENCY RELEASE CONNECTOR. However, at no other place , even the Troubleshooting Sections, are those two CONNECTORS mentioned. I will be having a conversation with Joe at the factory soon. What drives me snaky is the lack of proper identification of the components on both the electrical AN hydraulic circuit prints. You would think one or the other would allow a positive location and function description so you could cross reference over to the other circuit. The Son's Of Nippon kept the index pages to themselves on translation.
Jim It sounds like you are describing the "lever lock solenoid". It is fed power from the switch on the safety bar . Maybe the previous owner has run a jumper wire to the solenoid because the proximity switch on the safety bar is faulty. Do your hydraulics work with the safety bar up?. Regards...........Phil
The eletrical runs in a plastic conduit. To bypass sensors you need to connect two wires. They stick out of the black conduit and are typicaly taped back to it in opposite directions with yellow eletrical tape. They will be completely hidden under the tape so look for the yellow tape around the plastic conduit. I can attest that Tak's one weak point is the eletrical. I think their reasoning is that they cater to the rental market so it's kill sensor heavy and conservative to protect it from idiot rental customers running with low collant, etc. Better safe than sorry approach. But what a headache when they age.
I know this is an old post, but I found the location of the bypass connector on a 140,, just above the battery in a big cable on the lower rear right side..
is there something there you just plug together? sometimes my machine wont move at startup. i think that relay by the floor board is going out on my machine. anyone know a part# for it?
Just got my troublesome TL140 back from an injection pump shop and now my safety bar in the up position will NOT kill the hydraulics. I haven't looked yet but tomorrow I will see if somehow they plugged the bypass wires together and bypassed the safety switch. Shop claimed they never messed with any of the electrical circuts. -Kevin
Here is the safety bar bypass plug on a 2007 TL140. My starter ended up junking out and diagnosing it the shop thought this should be plugged in. It's unplugged now and taped back with yellow tape.
thanks to this thread my TL140 is up and running!!
Yes, this is an old post, but we should post to it to keep it relevant. I added a pair of wires up to the console from the bypass plugs so I could install a switch. This lets me set the brakes and kill the hydraulics when I'm on a hillside. I never have figured out what the original problem was, but it works.
Help Please, I have the same flashing lights and auto shut down (15-20 seconds) found the bypass wires and plugged them together, still shutting down? Would like to know were the "safety relay is location is. Is it one of the two under the back off cab?
The relays are behind the panel in front of your feet. But the safety relay just stops hydraulics from working. Engine stays running. Your engine shuts off? May be a coolant temp sensor on upper coolant hose to radiator. And most obvious, did you check oil and coolant levels?
Unit may have a water level sensor. It is important that the coolant be above sensor. On my Yanmar powered Takeuchis, it only has one wire, and, by grounding that one wire, the sensor is bypassed. After all these years, I'm pretty sure that I've bypassed them all (TL150, TB180FR, & TB53FR) in all of mine. Not sure how to bypass a 2 wire sensor. Can you verify that the coolant level is all the way up? The sensor is #80 inside the red circle.
Thanks guys, Well the good news is I got it going, the bad new is I don't know how! The first thing I did was bypass the coolant sensor. Next I found the relay compartment and swapped common relays (not having a schematic or knowledge of the shutdown circuit) with no change in symptoms. Then I just started visually inspecting the wiring harness for damage and some how by moving and poking around on the right side of the engine the problem went into hiding. I never did see any evidence of damage or corrosion anywhere. Also I do have a contact with the local dealer service and he had no knowledge of how the shutdown circuit worked other than the common coolant sensor failure either!
I had to run a new hot wire to the switch. Never found a broken or corroded wire, must be one somewhere in the harness. Taks suck at electrical. Great otherwise.
We purchased a TL140 in November and when we lift the safety bar the engine shuts off and will not restart until the safety bar is lowered. We can jumper the safety bar sensor and the engine will run with the bar up or down, but then the hydraulics are active also. We found the connectors by the battery wrapped in yellow electrical tape and we also found the connectors on the left side in engine compartment below rear light wrapped in blue electrical tape. We connected those connections both at the same time and independently and was no help. We are just looking to keep the unit running with the safety bar up and still keep the hydraulics locked. Are we missing something or does someone know a way of doing this? The unit runs and operates fine with the safety bar down.
So, I bought cheif Jim's tl140 some 6-7 years ago. Haven't used it much the past couple years but I am now having the starting issue. All the lights come on on the display, I hear the relays click, I turn the key to the start position and I hear the other relays kick but get nothing from the starter. I would jump across the starter but it's in a terrible location. Any fresh advice.
Isn't there easy access from the bottom of the machine? I think it's best to start at the starter. See if there is power going to the solenoid when the key is turned.
Just checked it. I turned the key to the on postion and I was able to jumper across the solenoid, got sparks but it did not fire. It's so hard to reach anything in there and being as it's parked under the shed it isn't easy to get under it either. I'm going to have to find a way to jack it up, get blocks under it, then take the access panels off. I assuming that's how I would have to remove the starter and solenoid anyway.
I'd put a floor jack on the rear center. Then place some blocks or something under the tracks, and set back down.
That's was exactly what I was thinking. Just going to have to find a wide base for the jack so it doesn't sink in the dirt.
I have a TL140 early 2000's. Auxiliary hydraulics quit working. It is throwing an Over Load error on the proportional controller. the service manual says to fix the short between the proportional control solenoid valves and the controller. I spliced in a new piece of shielded cable to solenoids A and B as well as the ground wire one more. Still throws the OL code. the manual says it's a short somewhere. I have a used extra A-B valve body with solenoids that, when plugged in, throw the same error on the controller. Both A and B solenoids ohm out the same as each other and the same as the extra valve body solenoids do. I put new one-way flow and detent flow switches in. A new resister pack (you have to buy all three; one was corroded but still working; replaced it anyway); I put a different joystick on that is used but came with another part i bought. Same issue. I took the plug apart and plugged the wires together apart from the connector housing. does anyone have any experience or ideas? thanks
hey guys first timer here. I have a tl140 that starts and runs flawlessly but has intermittent controls. as of now zero movement. I by passed my lap bar a long time ago and machine worked great. I am wondering if there is a parking brake pilot pump or something. I put my hand on the hydrostatic pump and turn the key and it seems to have flow. what I need to know if I can A bypass the pilot control valve system ( I think its called) or B is that the cause I have zero function or do you think it is the hydrostatic pump. I don't have a way to test that other then my hand when I crank it it seems to work
Have you double checked your bypass connection