I have an old td14 that is exclusive farm use. I only use this in spring or fall because of overheating. So I went to start it up last week and it started fine on gas, but when I went to shift over to diesel as soon as i would move gas lever to diesel, the engine would run wide open. I have no control of engine speed with diesel throttle and with diesel speed control off, it would still run full open as soon as i shut off the gas lever. Thought might be sticking in pump, but seemed that would cause it to have no speed control but run at low throttle since thats the way it was shut off. Anyway, pulled small cover off side of pump and cleaned with carb cleaner, but had exactly the same problem when I restarted it. When last used (probably May/June) it worked fine and had normal throttle control. Any suggestions on where I go from here... Thanks RonM
Second reply Well I see my first reply went north try again. The last time it was used It returned to idle (on diesel mode) (yes) did you pull the throttle all the way down to stop (on diesel mode) (yes-no) did you return to gas mode (yes no) I know IH fans will hammer me, but I have never returned to gas mode for shut down I know what the book says but my father bought this thing new and the shut down has not have been an issue. It went a little haywire years ago and I took that cover off the pump and found this flat wound springy think that took a dump. Like some kind of buffer. Also make sure the pump arm is positioned correctly to the throttle rod to the dash. Maybe the shaft was a little stiff from sitting and jumped its splines. I have all the books that came with the machine & just one book just on the pump & fuel. Ill get back Ron sam "start on gas best thing ever Ya just gotta carry extra five gal of gas"
Oh boy! I got into the big book, kind of over my head these pumps have racks springs and all kinds of unknowns, but I am leaning towards the rack which what I see controls the amt. of fuel I think I would take the fuel lines off and keep puting pb blaster or some thing it wont hurt I scanned that little spring that broke on mine meanwhile Ill keep reading. sam
td14 Sam, thanks for info so far. Yes, I do shut diesel all the way off and let run on gas for a minute or so before I shut off gas lever. The more I think about this the less i know. Im not sure how its supposed to operate. Im not sure the problem is gas or diesel related. After starting on gas and letting engine warm up, I would normally push both lever simultaneously up to stop gas and start diesel. But with this problem, no matter what I do with the diesel lever, it runs wide open when I shut off gas lever. Even if diesel lever is still in closed position. If I raise diesel lever like normal, it has no impact, still running wide open. Is that possible with diesel lever shut off? Not sure if its running wide open on gas or diesel. Does that make any sense???...Tks ron
You could close gas valve and run it till it almost dies, then switch to diesel. I think it is diesel pump rack stuck or governor problem. You need a old injection pump repair guys input.
It is either rack gear or plunger pinion gear stuck. If this is an IH pump (and not a Bosch) then you can tell by removing the oil filler neck at the rear of the pump. Two screws is all it takes. Clean it well first with some carb spray. Then when moving throttle look for a shaft that slides back/forth at the rear of the opening. That is the rack gear (and the plunger is the pinion). It is about 5/8" thick and has an adjuster nut on the outward end. Should move easily and follow the throttle for the most part.
Sorry I didnt mean old I meant seasoned.
td14 steering M Diesel, THANKS!!! That was exactly my problem. The piston was frozen so tight i had to tap against a pry bar with a hammer to break loose. I was afraid I was hitting on the wrong thing, but it finally broke loose and with a little carb cleaner it loosened up and works fine.... Thanks again, Ron M
No problem Ron. Runs okay? BTW, got a TD18 on the old farm place not that far from you. Down towards Rolla. Later
Yes, that function works fine now. This dozer doesnt get much work, so lot of things go wrong from setting. Now left clutch doesnt function, can only make right turns. Also has a crack in the head that I have to drain some water off before I shut it down to keep cylinder dry. Other than that!!!! I just use it to push down a few trees each year. I have a guy I worked with for about 20 years now living in rolla, runs the MFA store down there...Thanks again...ron
Hi, I'm a very new member and glad I found this forum. I have the same problem as ronm. This TD-14 has not been started for 6 years. When it was shut down it was running fine. I too have the IH pump not the Bosch. I'm sure it is the rack gear or the plunger pinion , as M Diesel stated. My problem is their location and how to use a pry bar and hammer. Could you guys give me some more information on their location? I drained the lube from the pump. It was very thick and black. I then filled the pump with gas and will remove the gas this week end. I was thinking of useing a rust remover spay after I drain the gas, but it sounds like that won't be enough to break it loose. My book states I should use 1/2 pint ASE 30 in the fuel injection pump, above 45degrees . Would more be better? Would 20 ASE be better? I had removed the side plate and looked in but can't tell anything. I will appreciate any help. Thanks,
I don't know if this tread is dead or not. Anyway I'm trying to get hold of ronm. It looks like I need to add three or more messages to fine any information so I'll just keep trying. thanks bullseye
I forgot to mention that I would like to get more information from M Diesel. This is my first experiance with a TD-14 sticking governor. Bullseye
No its not dead, we are just thinking. As far as adding oil I just change pump oil when changing engine oil, I use #40 with a couple qts of Moreys. And after the cover is off there isnt to much there except that buffer spring. Im no fuel man, but maybe take it off PAY ATTENTION to the timimg marks mark with paint- marker anything. This may sound red neck, but I'd be tempted to put it in the oven for awhile. Then the old timers swear by brake fluid poured in there filling it right up both the bottom and thru the inj. fittings. they say it wont bother o rings I dont know. Then after all these yrs I find a small brass hammer is better than a sledge. tap tap tap. side ways end ways . I dont think your welded, its just gummed up. Or a bucket with kerosine if you can get it and soak it. Also I remember another fine screen where the fuel line goes in the pump soak that to. If no avail, I guess its UPS to Boston Fuel in Mass. mine was putting fuel in the engine oil so my father says do it $1100 back in the 80s. still runs fine. pump easy to take off just make sure you mark the gears & timing selector pointer. I still say heat it maybe oven on 180 degree's
one more bulleye Forgot to mention an other thing that these catch like a cold. After sitting thru winter gets warmer you start it, switch to diesel and is skipping! First thought one goes to the injectors 9 out of 10 it is the plunger under the rocker arm that is stuck, and thats tricky to free (this is gas cycle) If encountered it does have a pilot hole, in which I put an easy out in this hole and just worked it up down till it came out. Little steel wool clean, oil, back to normal. This is the cup used on gas mode, when switched to diesel it sticks there and dont pop up then sticks and now its got a gas valve stuck open for low compression gas mode. A pain rocker arms gotta come off muffler comes off hood etc. So since that experiance I make a point to run this thing every 2-3-weeks in off season. I dont want to go thru that again. sam
Hi bullseye, I think you got this problem resolved over at RedPower? Sorry I don't visit here often. 30w is summer, they do like 20 better for winter. It isn't all that critical really.